Turning boring cutting boards into art....

[@wbegg1]

Pro tip. When leveling the end grain, take a climb cut around the perimeter first. You will have 0 tear-out.

[@TwoMooseDesign]

Thanks for the tip!

[@michellepyatt7598]

Great work. The little hand took me out......🤣🤣🤣

[@jeffrall6863]

No Bro the Bloodwood is Bangin!!!! Great work and thanks for the Vid.

[@TwoMooseDesign]

Yeah my wife is typically right 🙄😂

[@JNewellworks]

Nice work Jef! The boards look great! Even the first run. Keep up the great content!

[@TwoMooseDesign]

Thank you! I appreciate it

[@shadeTreeWorks]

I always loved your work on these and it's cool to see your process. Sweet looking boards.

[@TwoMooseDesign]

Thanks! I appreciate it!

[@Sawdustmaker711]

Love your work…You have definitely got the inlay technique down pat…love the whole process…

[@TwoMooseDesign]

Thanks!

[@TxStang]

All of them are works of art !

[@TwoMooseDesign]

Thank you, I appreciate it

[@Hog-g2z]

Good morning 🌅, Very nice work, very interesting, CNC is way over my head, from France

[@TwoMooseDesign]

Thanks for watching! We appreciate it

[@tpsooner7816]

These are simply fantastic!

[@TwoMooseDesign]

Thank you!

[@barryomahony4983]

Great projects and nice to see them on YT. It's nice not to have all the the crazy comments like you have on Instagram.

[@JamesDeanDesigns]

Awesome work

[@TwoMooseDesign]

Thank you 🙏🏼

[@Ernzt8]

Amazing boards!

[@TwoMooseDesign]

Thank you!

[@silvansdRF99]

beautiful work excellent inlay. Your video gave you a nickname, my 4 year old daughter says: look at "the man woman" Because of his long hair 😊

[@TwoMooseDesign]

😆

[@silvansdRF99]

@@TwoMooseDesign here in Brazil, honoring your work 👋

[@Ricks2Cents]

*How did you color the Wood?*

[@TwoMooseDesign]

The wood I used is naturally that color. No dyes were used

[@OakHillMillworks]

I have had that same issue before with the auto center not actually centering it to the eye bc of an asymmetrical design. Nice save tho!

[@TwoMooseDesign]

Ugh I’ve done it so many times 😆

[@BeaulieuTodd]

Ha ha! The fake hand! Love! 😂

[@TwoMooseDesign]

It’s a nice touch, glad bender robot approves lol 😁

[@alextraverso1950]

Real exelent Job BEUTIFULL

[@TwoMooseDesign]

Thanks!

[@mon3d-designs]

really nice work, :)

[@jimrosson6702]

Great job

[@TwoMooseDesign]

Thank you!!

[@burnsieva]

Fantastic video, Onefinity guys recommended your videos. just starting to try inlays. can you tell me which Amana bit you used for your inlay cuts (after clearance) the link has 6 different ones

[@TwoMooseDesign]

thanks for watching! Its the 6.2 tapred ball nose the smallest one amana makes. its $65 i believe

[@TwoMooseDesign]

I clicked the link i see what you're saying. I added this below the link. its this one here 0.5 D x 26.5 CH x 6 SHK you can use other bits you'll just need different tolerances. v bits work just as well they are just not as durable but same results

[@jeheaton2012]

Can you explain how you made the press? TIA!

[@benchdog1234]

Jef, much thanks for your openness in sharing your knowledge. Your talent is extraordinary. I do have a question: How do you determine the tolerances in your designs (ie, how narrow can a plug be cut or how much wood needs to remain on a pocket wall). I’ve experienced problems where my tolerances are too small. Much thanks on any advice. Bruce J.

[@TwoMooseDesign]

Hey Bruce! Trial and error, for me I need a minimum line width of at least .04 but this depends on bit and depth of cut. So I would make some tests of different line weights. Even if I find a design on Etsy or what ever I have to go in and pretty much redraw it to ensure a seamless fit. You can measure lines in vetric. I personally draw in Adobe but you can do the same in both or even add a grid pattern to see your dimensions when zoomed In.

[@benchdog1234]

Thanks Jeff, that’s what I was afraid you’d say. Trial and error seems to work. Your videos and dialogue are really top notch!

[@bzwax21]

Where did you get your scalpel? Totally cool

[@kevinrich4637]

All the boards look great…thank you for the information. Are you using the V12 tool paths? I went back to the old way because I didn’t like how I could not control how deep the bit plunged on the plug paths. On cutting boards I usually do 0.315 deep. Just curious how deep are yours?

[@TwoMooseDesign]

I do not I do v carve toolpath. Yeah I never used it, I didn’t like how it was set up. In the board about .25 and .3 or so on the plug. I

[@homtherobot]

Thank you for the excellent video. I've been getting really into inlays lately and it's helpful to see how others approach it. I've been wondering about your use of a tapered ballnose. At 3:28, when you say "simply because they're more durable", do you mean compared to V bits?

[@TwoMooseDesign]

Yes, with deep passes the fine v but tips can break drastically easier

[@homtherobot]

@@TwoMooseDesign Damn, I noticed the tip of my go-to V bit was broken recently and had to replace it. I just assumed I must have mishandled it and didn't notice! Thanks for the tip!

[@butchlandry1266]

If you’re using the Vcarve tool path, How do you set up the tapered ball nose bit in Vcarve, as a VBit. Or are you just making the socket and plug as separate projects?

[@TwoMooseDesign]

I run it as a v bit and I use v carve tool path

[@burtgraham3689]

awesome

[@TwoMooseDesign]

Thank you!

[@Bricksww]

I’m with Jess, blood wood looks good. However it does dull edges of tools quickly in my experience.

[@TwoMooseDesign]

It does! Sooo dense, also why I avoid wenge lol

[@oldbroncoguy]

Lights out stuff! Thanks -- you and Broinwood are on a different plane! The surfacing bit link takes you to an 1/8 cut bit. That's not correct, is it?

[@TwoMooseDesign]

That is not correct. It’s a 3 flute upcut, I’ll fix it thanks for letting me know! Nik is the man! He taught me how to do this

[@oldbroncoguy]

Thanks - I bought his course and your cow file but I’m struggling mightily right now! 😂😂

[@TwoMooseDesign]

they are way hard than they look. there are so many variables to get a seamless perfect inlay ive done well over 100 boards and Im still learning along the way.

[@kidnex1]

Are you using any special V-Carve software to program the detail pass?

[@TwoMooseDesign]

I use Vectric v carve pro and the v carve tool path. Nothing special I’ve done to the software.

[@gerryhope3931]

Nice work, been tinkering around with a homemade Cnc, still learning. Just out of curiosity where are you located

[@TwoMooseDesign]

Nice that’s exciting. We are located in central Wisconsin

[@FullThrottleCNC]

What brand was the 30 degree v bit

[@TwoMooseDesign]

I don’t use a 30 degree v but I use a tiny tapered ball nose

[@stevedue4485]

Where do you source your materials for your cnc work?

[@TwoMooseDesign]

Locally. I have a few lumber mills within an hour.

[@stevedue4485]

@@TwoMooseDesign do you have a recommendation for epoxy to do small fills on a cutting board? i haven't learned inlay yet but want to fill a name and small design with some green epoxy that would be safe to still use the cutting board.

[@shanesphotography3350]

Those look awesome! So why would it fail if it’s not end grain?

[@TwoMooseDesign]

It has to be the same grain. If you put face grain in face grain going the same way it will be fine. But face grain into end grain would move at different rates and the inlay would crack pretty fast.

[@TwoMooseDesign]

Thanks for watching!

[@garrydye2394]

You get alot of tear out trying to make a detailed image with long grain and will just end up driving yourself crazy trying to do this with long grain. Sometimes it can work no problem and sometimes it just doesn't. Its really not even worth the headache to take a chance on getting tear out trying to do this long grain to long grain. For super crisp detailed image outcome....just stick with doing endgrain only.

[@d.k.1394]

Wow

[@TwoMooseDesign]

Thanks!

[@calvinjohnson9117]

Nice work. What feed rate are you using with the tapered bit?

[@TwoMooseDesign]

I do full passes so 20-30ipm depending on bit and wood type

[@chuckfreed282]

Wow some critics but you did make some booboos. However i would love to do inlays and i need to get on my cnc more. Thanks for the video.

[@TwoMooseDesign]

That’s how you learn 😁

[@johnnyking3894]

what size bits you use for inlays if you dont mind? I am wanting to try some myself.

[@TwoMooseDesign]

Oh dang I forgot to add them to the description I believe. I’ll add them tonight. I use a tapered ball nose and upcuts for clearing

[@brendanlenane2685]

They look too good to use.

[@TwoMooseDesign]

Thanks for watching! You must use them

[@liquidrockaquatics3900]

100% serious question. Does anyone even buy end grain cutting boards? Without the inlay, do end grain cutting boards sell for even 10% of the labor that goes into them?

[@TwoMooseDesign]

Absolutely any decent end grain board is $200 or so depending on size. It’s also not nearly as bad if you have a lot of tools. Without a good planer and drum sander I wouldn’t even bother