We Tried 3D Printing Molds for Concrete Tables…

[@zelurnevets]

I worked for a company that made these kinds of things(gfrc planters, benches, fountains) and there are a few things you can do to make your life easier. For mold release the simplest/cheapest and maybe even the best is just simple wax. A very light coat should do, more is not better. Hot glue is your friend and can be used to hold the mold forms in place, itd probably take some adjusting on the design to hold all the pieces but even just holding most and leaving the last one floating would help. With the right amount of fiber(1-3%) you can go pretty thin at around 1/2-3/4" wall thickness, if you need to go really big you can create voids and reinforcing areas on the inner tube to add structure and strength without going too thick. You may be better off casting upside down and open(no inner tube) with the right amount water, you may need a water reducer but youll get a stronger and better part by being able to roll out bubbles and minimize them. Also "fixing" bubbles can be done with a little cement soon after pulling from the mold. Theres more and I can go in depth on this but Im already rambling. This has given me some ideas on making stuff of my own, thank you!

[@TwoMooseDesign]

Thanks for all the tips! I appreciate it

[@MaheerKibria]

So I would have put registration pins on the sides just like you did for the top and bottom. I would have then just used ratcheting straps to hold the mold together. I feel like that would have made the seams neater. Next, hard corners are always going to be a problem with bubbles and nothing you do will fix that. You need to give it a draft angle to encourage the bubbles to move. I would have made it so my walls were much thinner. Fiber reinforced concrete can be surprisingly strong.

[@TwoMooseDesign]

Thanks for the tips! I was worried about pins on the sides as i wouldn’t be able to pull them apart so I didn’t risk it. I think the ratchet straps would have worked. And good to know! I wanted to make it thinner I just wasn’t sure what I could get away with. Thanks for watching!

[@MaheerKibria]

@@TwoMooseDesign registration pins don’t have to be deep. To avoid sticking something shallow and smooth like a half sphere on one side and a half dome on the other should work to keep it locked when ratcheted together but come off easily when you remove the straps. Most people make dowel when doing registration pins and those would definitely get stuck

[@TwoMooseDesign]

Yeah I should of done some short dowels

[@pkirill123]

Maybe a modified tongue and groove on the side seams and plus one for the draft on those edges that bubbled. It will help with mildew build up…

[@superhans3717]

Awesome to get gold like this on my KZbin recommendations. Subbed, about to binge the prior videos, and knowing this concrete mold idea is gonna sidetrack from completing current projects.

[@TwoMooseDesign]

Thanks for watching! We appreciate it

[@fcschoenthal]

I think that they came out great and I love the design and the "hidden" storage under the top. Kudos for getting almost every maker option into these (you left out metalworking). - Chris

[@TwoMooseDesign]

😆 right! I have a welding set up in my garage I’ll have to figure out a way to implement them all!

[@wharfrat360]

Wrapping a matching wood base around that bottom area where it is inset a bit would look pretty cool. I think it would break up the trash can vibe I'm getting. Great work, guys! Thanks for the inspiration, you definitely got me thinking.

[@TwoMooseDesign]

I did consider that after actually. It would Probably shave off 30 pounds too 😆 thanks for watching! We appreciate it

[@GeekCreek73]

Great Job , im a little of a concreate geek , and just have to let you know your first mix was the best .. all the others was to wet, concrete will be stronger and better with less aqua :) but i really is a fan , so its just a friendly reminder. keep it up , and good luck to you both

[@Mohammed-hd4pl]

Hey !! U should have use rachet strap . To hold ur molds. Caulking the seems could also be done to avoid leakage of cement. And the bubble getting trap is bcz of ur design flaw .. next time try to at an angle so the bubble travel upwards or else u should pour concrete in batches and remove bubbles as u go up rather filling it all once and bubbling it out.

[@Adventures_EC]

I did that before and it works as you did. ANd each time you become better

[@TwoMooseDesign]

Heck yeah, I think I could do a lot better if I did it again. Got a lot of great tips in the comments

[@davidwalker575]

Great project, I’d love to see how the concrete looks after a good sand, polish, and seal.

[@TwoMooseDesign]

Ohhh I bet it would look good polished. I didn’t plan on doing that only sealing it which still gives it a little sheen I believe

[@the3in1workshop]

I think they came out great. Beautiful pieces for your outdoor area.

[@TwoMooseDesign]

Thanks! We appreciate you watching

[@JonLake]

Thats such a great project! I would personally make the 3d prints 1model that you print 4 time so if you plan to make more later and one break, you cab print just one mode without having to find the right one. I will try it next summer with exagon shapes for the wall. Thx for the inspiration!

[@TwoMooseDesign]

Thanks for the tip! And thanks for watching

[@TwoMooseDesign]

Thanks for watching everyone!

[@onbedoeldekut1515]

(if it fits) inflate some large bicycle tyres around the mould to exert even pressure on the form, pulling the pieces together and hopefully removing any seam lines. Also, the next time you design the pieces, include some keys (male and female specific orientation points) to help all of the parts marry up.

[@ajuds06]

I would suggest on your 3D printed mold to design the walls with rabbit or butterfly joints to suck in the seams from part to part. For the concrete I would suggest using some chicken wire as a "cage" for reinforcement, but it doesn't reduce the weight any. You could also try cutting the caps in half and then tape the seam so when pulling the melamine out it's a little easier.

[@TwoMooseDesign]

It definitely needed something to lock them together and ohh good idea on chicken wire the thinner the walls the better! Thanks for watching

[@theebalz]

Love the design and build. I can help with your concrete mix a lot if you're interested. First, you're using the wrong fibers from what I can see. Second, a plasticizer in you mix would help get the air bubbles out as much as possible. Next, you can use a PAM spray for molds so the concrete doesn't stick. I also have a great trick to keep your wood at the bottom from sticking, but I'm not sure how to explain it by text. Teach me how to use the Masso controller once I get my 1F and I can teach you a lot about concrete. Oh, and one more thing.....With the right mix & fiber you can make you table 1/3 the thickness your current tables are and probably even stronger. Let me know how to contact you, and I can get you started in the right direction. Really nice job for your first concrete project.

[@TwoMooseDesign]

Thanks for the tips! Yeah I had no idea what fibers to buy 😆 shaving an inch off the insides would save a fine of weight and I could for sure is it in 2 bags or less and just reach out on our IG! That’s exciting you’re getting a onefinity. You’ll love it

[@rawjaat]

For weight reduction I suggest aerating the concrete mix. The professionals do it with some kid of special suds building liquid and a giant frothing device. Cheap way could be dish soap. I tried shaving cream and it smelled A LOT like the shaving cream. Also adding in micro-styrofoam beads, but they might affect the surface quality.

[@TwoMooseDesign]

Interesting! That’s pretty cool I’ll definitely do some research on that. Thanks for watching!

[@HeliRy]

It really is amazing what possibilities are open to us today, that were a futuristic fever dream a decade ago. Smaller and more reliable saws and bench top tools, smaller CNCs, laser cutters and engravers, 3D printers that actually work without a degree from MIT, lathes, etc. It’s bonkers.

[@TwoMooseDesign]

It is crazy! I want allll the toyssss 😆

[@shadeTreeWorks]

Really cool build. Love the design to completion.

[@TwoMooseDesign]

Thanks! We learned alot, I doubt I’ll make something similar again but i think some planters could be pretty cool 🤔

[@kevinjensen9817]

Not sure what type of concrete you used but it turned out great. I might have used fiberglass rebar in the concrete so you might be able to go a little thinner but have the strength. Also, add some concrete coloring to the mix to spice it up. Great project however

[@TwoMooseDesign]

Good idea! I used countertop concrete from the local big box store

[@kevinjensen9817]

@@TwoMooseDesign I thought you did use that from Menards.

[@TwoMooseDesign]

Yep! I got the concrete and form tubes from menards, I was surprised they had the countertop concrete there.

[@ultra4suzukisamurai679]

I wonder if ratchet straps around the molds would keep the joints tight,

[@TwoMooseDesign]

I think it would have. If I didn’t already have a spare card board tube I would have definitely tried

[@nicolaiveldorm6940]

Look good👍🏻👍🏻Are the mould stl available for download anywhere?

[@TwoMooseDesign]

Not yet, I had several people ask I’ll make them available soon

[@IhabFahmy]

_Cool. Wood on concrete will eventually lead the wood to rot though, as the concrete absorbs humidity from the air, or water when it gets rained on. A gasket between the wood top and the concrete base is recommended for longevity. It would also (hopefully) keep the bugs out and preven water or condensation from finding its way to the inside of the base._

[@TwoMooseDesign]

Thanks for the tips!

[@wittworks]

I love this idea.

[@TwoMooseDesign]

Thanks for checking it out! I think it’s more realistic at a smaller scale but it worked pretty well! I just needed a better design but for a first run I’m happy.

[@Hog-g2z]

Good morning 🌅, great idea, well done, 👍🏻, I see that there is a 3D printer that builds walls and houses, 😮 😂 your next project, 😂, from France,

[@TwoMooseDesign]

I wish!! I don’t think I could afford one of those 😂😂 thanks for watching!!

[@Mebeknob]

It’d be cool if you left like a 1/2” gap between the concrete and the wood top, then put a light inside. It would provide some cool direct night lightning

[@TwoMooseDesign]

Ohhh I like that idea!

[@RealSnail3D]

Killer work!

[@TwoMooseDesign]

Thanks! It was fun to try it out

[@karlriley1314]

They look good.

[@TwoMooseDesign]

Thanks! Appreciate you watching

[@SmallProjectCentral]

I love these! Great job!!!

[@TwoMooseDesign]

Thanks! It was fun, we learned a lot

[@rieldylanburrows6439]

The 3d prints needed a way to over lap a bit then some plywood perfectly cut to fit outer rings. The other option is ratchet straps but add a rubber layer. To make it less hard on the 3d print. It can be glued to each of the pieces. Make sure you do not over tighten. The runner also protects against the metal ratchet straps. The edges to lock together should look like this. _|-

[@TwoMooseDesign]

Thanks for all the tips!

[@peircedan]

Nice job. Nice shop. I don't think I would use those tables on a wood deck. I think that material choice would make more sense if the tables were to be used on sand, dirt or gravel .

[@TwoMooseDesign]

Thanks for watching! I thought they gave an extra element of texture. A lot of people have concrete tops on their deck and it sits on a outdoor rug so it won’t scratch any 😁

[@Goknolz]

Generally with glass fiber reinforced concrete 3/4 of an inch is thick enough. Big box tubes are hard to use since you can get specific sizes, but some “construction supply distributors” (I.e White Cap is national) can get more specific sizes. Overall, well done!

[@TwoMooseDesign]

Yeah I wish I could of found one size smaller on the tubes. and ohhhh 3/4 seems crazy thin! I was afraid to make them any thinner haha. I wish I could of shaved off a 1/2" for sure, They feel super solid I think it would of been fine, I just didn't have the knowledge or confidence! Thanks for the tips and we appreciate you watching.

[@timg4800]

Great process. Thanks for sharing! They just look a little too much like Oscar the grouch metal trash cans to me. I’d go w another design, but the process was helpful. Thanks!

[@TwoMooseDesign]

I didn’t want to go too complicated when I didn’t fully what I was doing and just waste a bunch of material and time

[@serhatpalakc4549]

Really like it. I am just wondering are they really need fiber reinforcement? No pressure on table, without fiber actually works I guess. So you can keep 16$ in your pocket. :)

[@TwoMooseDesign]

I think you’re right but I wasn’t sure haha definitely would have done several things differently. Thanks for watching!

[@OldVetCreations]

I know it would take away from the pattern or look but I would try to make one totally smooth. I think it would come out so much easier. If they were smooth I would have the Grandkids paint them! Great job are you going to make the 3D file available? 😁

[@TwoMooseDesign]

I can! I had a few people ask about it. That would be pretty cool to have them paint them!

[@jaymcdonald1511]

Super nice!

[@TwoMooseDesign]

Thanks!

[@-pixel-8910]

cool!!! i like it! keep going!

[@TwoMooseDesign]

Thanks for watching we appreciate it

[@lezbriddon]

The bubbles are a puzzle as I also would have expected a more loose/sloppy mix to have allowed them to surface more easily, as I have wanted to try something like this I'd love to know the answer to fewer bubbles before I commit...

[@TwoMooseDesign]

Im sure someone out there will have an answer! I was pretty surprised the first one looked better lol

[@BariumCobaltNitrog3n]

A concrete vibrator. Rent them at your Home store for about $50 a day. At the very least hit all the sides of it with a mallet, pretty hard. You'll see the bubbles come up. Also this moves the big rocks away from the sides.

[@cadthunkin]

Next time put an oscar the grouch figure inside the middle tube for a nice surprise when unmolding.

[@TwoMooseDesign]

😆😆😆

[@MM-nq2xo]

Might use flow control next time.

[@TwoMooseDesign]

I didn’t know that was a thing! Just googled it, I’ll have to try it the next time I use concrete. Thanks for watching!

[@TwoMooseDesign]

Let me know what you would have done differently!

[@Splendidtrucker1235]

Nothing. You used the tools and knowledge you have. If you want to do it on industrial level we might ask the company you but the original template from.

[@TwoMooseDesign]

Thanks! I for sure learned a lot. I dont plan on making a ton of them would be alot of work to sell and move them around. I'm sure I would get a lot better after several attempts.

[@BariumCobaltNitrog3n]

You can get high strength concrete for $6/50lbs, and is made for countertops (and other uses). Your mix was way too wet, which makes it weaker. Concrete doesn't dry, it sets like epoxy where the water doesn't dry out, it forms a chemical bond with the cement (and aggregate). Too much water weakens the bonds. It should not pour easily. Poke it with a stick every few inches as your pour it to settle it. There are a few ways to settle the bubbles out. Cover the mold and pull a vacuum for 15-20 minutes, rent a concrete vibrator from the Home store ($50/4 hours) or use the sawzall, but longer and on the inside then hammer it with a mallet on all sides for a minute or so. Also a hammer drill works well too. You don't need the fiberglass with high strength. You can buy a butter-smooth concrete patch mix to fill your bubble holes, it will match. You'll want to etch and seal your tables after a month (that's two things, acid etch and wet look or matte sealer, or paint) or they will get a white powdery growth (efflorescence) and they will crack and crumble. This is a must-do if you keep them outside. They look good, the flutes came out nice. I would router a line or two around the sides of the top for a little visual to break up the bulk but hey, good job!

[@TwoMooseDesign]

Thanks for the tips! I appreciate it, I definitely learned a lot. I should have done a smaller sample first but of course I didn’t 😆 I do plan to seal them but google said way like a month before I do so. I definitely think the send one was too wet, on the packaging it said to pour it pretty wet but I think I went too wet as the first one looked better.

[@BariumCobaltNitrog3n]

@@TwoMooseDesign You're welcome. They say experience is the test before the lesson. Keep having fun!

[@heavenisalie]

It would have been better to have the mold sides half overlap at least, then you don’t have a straight path for the concrete but they can still pull apart. Fancier and you wouldn’t have had to worry about clamps so much would be to design with a tapered dovetail to join them and hammer a part in to lock them. But that is honestly more effort than it’s worth for this

[@TwoMooseDesign]

Thanks for the tips! and thanks for watching

[@deeply999]

To be honest I would have used PetG filament to print them, better strength and much better heat and stress tolerances.

[@TwoMooseDesign]

Absolutely I just had alot of pla on hand and wasn’t sure how well it would release but you’re right definitely a better material for something like this

[@kevinrich4637]

Great job.

[@TwoMooseDesign]

Thanks! It was fun

[@CustomUnico]

Very nice 👏

[@TwoMooseDesign]

Thanks 😊

[@alexthelion335]

I feel like they kinda look like trash cans, but really cool build!

[@TwoMooseDesign]

😆😆 cement trash cans for my furniture covers! Yeah I wish I would of done a more complex design. I honestly didn’t have the highest hopes but the first one worked so it was like weeellll guess I’m making another lol

[@josephcatano4705]

I would say pour a small amount, vibrate, pour small, vibrate, repeat.

[@TwoMooseDesign]

That wood probably work pretty good

[@richardthornton9318]

Why not use a ratchet strap around the mould to hold it closed?

[@TwoMooseDesign]

That probably would have worked. I was initially concerned with the 3d print strength and I already bought the tubes so I kinda just stick with that plan

[@Shylockza]

Use ratchet straps on the outside before you pour your mix into the forms...

[@TwoMooseDesign]

Good idea!

[@oldiron1400]

Lightweight concrete might be a better answer to your issue

[@TwoMooseDesign]

I used countertop concrete, it’s the best I could find without having to order it which gets pricey

[@jayd9203]

Dryer concrete results in stronger concrete.

[@TwoMooseDesign]

Thanks for the tip!

[@JosefdeJoanelli]

I had to rewind to see if I misheard you saying you don't have a lot of space 😅

[@TwoMooseDesign]

I don’t know what you were referring too but I’m assuming I meant under the gazebo

[@odinata]

Not enough tattoos. I'll check back later to see if you are cool yet.

[@TwoMooseDesign]

Best comment. I need more moneyyyyyy, they are expensive 😆

[@szigyartom]

😂

[@hannesnel5414]

The less water your use the better so yes you used to much water the second time around

[@TwoMooseDesign]

That’s what I assumed. Lesson learned lol thanks for watching!

[@myhermitlife]

🤘🤘🤘🤘

[@TwoMooseDesign]

😁😁😁

[@myhermitlife]

Like and share🎉

[@TwoMooseDesign]

You're the best!

[@chriscarpenter4415]

I would use long hose clamp to hold your mouth together.

[@TwoMooseDesign]

Nice! Thanks for the tip, such a friendly guy

[@user-lx9jm1wo3h]

Is she stronger than you?

[@TwoMooseDesign]

Probably

[@TsiRoadkill]

Those look like temu trash cans

[@TwoMooseDesign]

sweet then I nailed it!

[@michaeld954]

Ratchet straps

[@TwoMooseDesign]

I definitely should have tried!

[@michaeld954]

@TwoMooseDesign What about making concrete planners next? Is make them more or Ornate

[@KyKyRyZaKZ]

Let's use expensive melamine so we can save.dirt cheap concrete.... 230$ to make small tables just WoW. Only 3d printed parts will be 100+ only for resin... Plenty of cheap plastic to just buy and one time use it.... 15$ easily repeatable table done for 150$

[@TwoMooseDesign]

The melamine was scraps I had from other projects and a whole sheet is $40. I guess you didn’t actually watch the video? They are reusable and the end tables we wanted were $230 and we made two for less than that. But okay be mad over nothing 👍🏼thanks for kind of watching the video.

[@KyKyRyZaKZ]

@@TwoMooseDesign ok on bubbles side design just wrong you have 90° above them they simply can't escape. Rolling on a side or adjusting design as make it 2 piece or adding slight slope so air can actually escape. Using extremely expensive premixed bags and adding fiberglass to countertop mix is a waste. Bag of concrete cost 5$ for 50kg or 110lbs not sure.... Mixing with 1:4 with sand will be 4 such tables for nothg and even with out fiberglass it will be extra strong.... 3d printing using CNC IF you have it doesn't mean it's free right. If you do furniture I don't think you charge only for wood... No Oak top in final price.... Same goes here if you have it from some project doesn't mean it's free. No hate here just "let's try to make 2 for the price of 1" is very easy goal for repeatable mold design. Real world question must be can we make 20. But I quest point of the video was not "make something cheap" but we tried we kinda did it everyone happy ) I watched till the end enjoyed it. Just don't get the point of doing something if all you actually did is pour water.... CNC circles with concrete forms from shop, 3d printed mold. CNC top oak.

[@TwoMooseDesign]

Okay, so if you just wanted to give feedback great! I appreciate the tips but you're just coming of rude. I bought pre mixed concrete that was for counter tops which someone recommended to me. I obviously didn't have concrete knolege so how would i know to magically make the forms correct when i dont know what i'm doing. It was trial and error, I never once claimed this was the right way to do anything and i got alot of helpful tips in the comments which i appreciate. I had fun making them and for my knowledge i was happy with how they turned out. if you dont like them great thats your opinion and thats fine with me as they are on my deck and not yours.

[@channelvr1293]

So funny...all that work with the printers...yet you have all that wood . I can make this in half a day in wood... easy.. and yes I have printers too... you just have to know when you are over engineering . Still the end result is nice.. and last not environmentally friendly either.

[@TwoMooseDesign]

But I wanted concrete

[@channelvr1293]

@TwoMooseDesign lol ok , make it out of wood , spray it with wax poor in concrete. Let it settle..done. 😁