Tutorial: Oil Weathering Techniques for Dark Yellow Model Tanks

[@alainaarrhodge5900]

Brilliant work! This video helps me so much to understand more of the ins and outs of oil painting for modelling purposes.

[@Panzermeister36]

Glad it was helpful!

[@AdamMann3D]

I've been liking oils more and more myself. This was brilliant man. I love the discoloration.

[@Panzermeister36]

+Adam Mann Thanks Adam

[@PinballRehab]

Really enjoying your tutorials. Keep up the great work.

[@Panzermeister36]

Thanks Terry!

[@roberth5699]

Finding you're channel was like unearthing gold.

[@bobahnert9213]

It's the little things that bring out the best! Great video again Evan, keep them coming!

[@Panzermeister36]

+bob ahnert Thanks Bob!

[@dennisgraham3087]

Loved that you used Ace Combat Music in the back ground. Good Job

[@HDAmodelworx]

just a stellar and clear process video on using oils for weathering. in fact, one of the best I have seen. just excellent. your model turned out amazing. well done and thanks for doing it. looking forward to the next video.

[@Panzermeister36]

+HDAmodelworx Thank you very much!

[@non-prolific135thscalemode7]

I love using oils, Evan, and there's a new use for them now! Thanks for sharing. Jens

[@Panzermeister36]

+Non-Prolific 1/35th Scale Model Builder Thanks Jens :)

[@ColonelRebScaleModels]

Awesome tutorial, and you did some fantastic weathering...thanks for sharing...

[@Panzermeister36]

+Colonel Reb's Scale Models Thank you!

[@cursedmonkey1033]

Fantastic results and you make it look so easy.

[@Panzermeister36]

Thank you! It's really not that hard

[@Flintlock85]

Very nice job! Video was well put together!!

[@lumickuang7805]

just one word...."wow". i learnt a lot from your videos mate. thanks.

[@Panzermeister36]

Thank you Lukas!

[@jamesmclachlan4957]

Really enjoying your work and tutorials...thanx...!!

[@Panzermeister36]

Thank you very much James :)

[@cdrseabee]

I have been reading Rinaldi's panzer art 4 lately and he suggests that if you going to put a light color oil on a darker background first moisten the brush with thinners before you put the brush in the oil and onto the model. Also blend with a dry or almost dry brush.

[@misplacedmojo3643]

Awesome tutorial! Am delving into the oil medium and your vids are very helpful. Thanks! -Chris-

[@Panzermeister36]

+Chris Brown thank you Chris. I should have more oil videos up soon!

[@HarryHoudiniModels]

excellent video! I had only used oils for dot filters and washes before but see how easy it would be to add post shading and chipping now.. Thank you.

[@Panzermeister36]

+Harry Houdini Thank you for watching, Harry! Hope you find use in this video :)

[@philbonaffini7573]

great build and great video

[@Panzermeister36]

thank you Phil :)

[@sorichar]

Super tutorial on using artist oils! Thanks for the new techniques I'll try out soon.

[@Panzermeister36]

No problem man; thank you for watching and commenting! Always really appreciated

[@xNevikKx]

Man, you're getting good! Thanks for the vid!

[@Panzermeister36]

Thank you!

[@russellgosselin3325]

Excellent tutorial, Evan. This is a keeper. You really did a good job at presenting and executing. I like this discoloration technique. You must tell me more about "The Filter".

[@Panzermeister36]

Once again, thank you very much for your comment, Russell! I'm glad you enjoyed it. The filter? It's just to tone down the camouflage usually and kind of unify all the colours. What specifically do you want to know?

[@Felisbarcinonensis]

Wow! It's perfect!!! Love every aspect!!!! Thanks for sharing the technique!!!!!!!!!!!

[@Panzermeister36]

Thank you Felis!

[@chriss4569]

Yup. Some of the best weathering effects o have seen. Great work man!

[@Panzermeister36]

Thank you Chris!

[@chriss4569]

+Panzermeister36 Wondering if you can help me with something PM36? Do you apply the oils directly over your paint? I tried some weathering using oils/streaking grime and white artist spirits, after I had clear coated my vehicle with Tamiya TS-80. The mineral spirits seemed to form a white fog (known as silvering I think) on my vehicle. Just curious if you have run into similar issues.

[@Panzermeister36]

Chris S Hello Chris. I've never run into that issue, but I have am idea of what it might be. Is that Tamiya clear coat enamel based? If so then the mineral spirits might attack it, as mineral spirits are what is used to thin down enamel paints as well as oils. I've never used that clear product before though.

[@chriss4569]

+Panzermeister36 Thanks for the response. The Tamiya aerosol dull coat isn't clearly labelled, other than Isobutyl alcohol and Isobutyl acetate with an acrylic resin. Luckily I was testing the bottom of my vehicle so the damage can be hidden, but it really was very noticeable and the silvering appeared within ten seconds of applying the white spirits. I have searched the web for similar problems and found nothing. Just to note, I have used the AK streaking grime before on untreated Tamiya paints before and had great results. Pretty sure I learned about the from one of your reviews. My plan is to spray the bottom of my vehicle again with Testors lacquer and try streaking with spirits again. If that doesn't work I will use the Tamiya X-20A thinner to make my streaks. It seems to work but the results are the same compared to using spirits. Maybe this experimenting will work out. lol. Thanks again

[@Panzermeister36]

Ah alright! Thanks for the info. As you said there I just usually streak AK paints and the like with enamel thinner over unsealed Tamiya acrylics and it's always perfectly fine. The Testors lacquer should do the trick; I know guys use that to seal. Good luck, and hope it works out for you!

[@MakingModelsAgain]

Paint quantity is obviously where I went wrong with my Sherman - I basically ended up painting the thing in oils! Ah well, onwards and upwards. Great tutorial, btw and stunning tank thingy (not an armour modeller as you can guess!)

[@JALEO1970]

Beautiful effects. I'll have to give this a try. Thank you for the video.

[@RollingThunderModels]

superb build and video! some time ago i saw Mig Jimenez doing about the same thing in a video, your video is just as clear and helpful! thank you posting it! jan

[@Panzermeister36]

thank you Jan :) can you link me that video?

[@RollingThunderModels]

ok i'll take a look tomorrow, it was some sort of live tutorial with about 50 spectators.

[@jackarmstrongiii3669]

Awesome technique; thanks for sharing!

[@Panzermeister36]

+Jack Armstrong III Thanks Jack!

[@jjab99]

Great job mate and fab video too, well done.

[@steventyler8002]

Love the video The music sounds like it’s from a magic show...

[@ryanzogu6193]

It's from Ace Combat. Truly an excellent soundtrack!

[@218422100]

That was very helpful!!!! Thank you for sharing this.

[@Panzermeister36]

Thanks James!

[@Jackdaw5]

Very good techniques. Superb. In reality, the vehicle would be covered in dust and muck, and probably not as chipped and scratched. Above all dust and dirt. But that would make for a more boring model if scaled down to 1/35. This artistic approach, while perhaps not completely realistic, does make for a very pleasing model and gives the 'impression' of realism.

[@Panzermeister36]

Thank you Ian! I agree. Vehicles didn't really last long enough to get very chipped and worn, but dust and dirt gets everywhere immediately.

[@BennyCFD]

Wow, brilliant video. learned a lot.

[@Panzermeister36]

thank you Benny!

[@matthewretchford5964]

No need to answer. Should have checked the comments first. Awesome technique mate.

[@Panzermeister36]

Thanks Matthew :)

[@jax5537]

Love your vids and love what your doing keep it up

[@Panzermeister36]

thank you for the awesome comment! I'm glad you're enjoying my work

[@francispare1310]

Simply superb work

[@jibond1]

Very great effect ! Nice tuto ! :)

[@Panzermeister36]

thank you :)

[@jibond1]

:)

[@vortexmodeling]

very good and informative video thanks

[@Panzermeister36]

Thanks, Vortex

[@С.С-и4ю]

great job

[@francescopirani8688]

Good Job!

[@Panzermeister36]

Thank you!

[@matthewretchford5964]

Great videos Panzermeister. One question if I may? Do you apply a semi gloss or gloss to the initial camouflage pattern before you apply the oils paint weathering? Matthew

[@ScaleJournal]

Good tutorial!

[@Panzermeister36]

thank you :)

[@eduardviska]

I to time days build sweden Strv.122 1:35 scale. For me this video good inspiration. Very Thx

[@glennwaterfield9442]

I love this video and relied on the techniques heavily when I weathered my StuG III. Thanks so much for sharing. What color(s) did you use for the chipping effects? A mix of umber and black perhaps?

[@Panzermeister36]

Glenn Waterfield Thank you! I'm glad it was helpful :) I'm pretty sure I used Raw Umber, which is a dark, toned-down brown. It's not too important what the colour exactly is, I just usually use a brown like that...so not too dark, and not too intense....just a boring brown colour with a hint of grey to it. i dont usually mix in grey, I just mean a brown that doesnt look like a muddy brown. If you're doing deeper chips than a more reddish brown does a good job of mimicking exposed primer/a bit of rust. Hope that was a good explanation :) feel free to ask me anything else!

[@chrisdelotis3175]

Panzermeister36 u

[@scottlindquist8417]

Great video, thanks for sharing your skills. Question, base colors on my tank are Tamiya, would the oils adversely effect the base paints?? Thanks 🇺🇸

[@Panzermeister36]

No, Tamiya acrylics are very durable...they should be as durable as any varnish. Now if you applied a weak primer (AK or vallejo) underneath the Tamiya them you may have some issues. Also note that your Tamiya paints may have dried very matte which is not ideal for working with oils. I prefer a satin finish.

[@MartMich]

Super video! :D

[@Panzermeister36]

+Rodrikingovy modelářská videa CZ/ENG thank you

[@DNModels]

Cool!

[@robertmaybeth3434]

PM you make this look easy when I know it's not easy, it's hard! You have a sharp eye for detail. Even with years trying this I am still almost never satisfied with the weathering. I seem to do eitther too much or too little, weathering effects, and since I do them mostly on 1/16 scale RC armor (Heng Long and Hooben) any error gets magnified, big time, and also becomes expensive fairly quickly. if you make an irreversible erro it can be impossible to undo since, how do you do sand away a mistake, on a fully built model?. Then i find myself painting over from scratch and trying it again... my T90 must have 15 coats of paint on it and still not happy with it. I had taken to making test-bed models just for practicing weathering, I'm hoping i get it right sometime soon once my Hooben T55 gets here, i have a small fortune invested in that tank by now!

[@cody9419]

thank you

[@Panzermeister36]

Thanks for the comment :) I'm glad you enjoyed it

[@ellispawson663]

VERY COOL,

[@Panzermeister36]

+Ellis Pawson Thanks Ellis!

[@roubaixrider1]

Another great video, thanks! Question: I noted in the comments that you don't use a sealer coat before you use the oils. When I tried that (before I saw your video) the surface of the airbrushed base coat was rough and the oils "sunk in" and were really hard to thin out. I then tried various glossy resin clear coats (including Future) from Vellejo but they are all inconsistent. I find the oils are much easier to use on a gloss coat. Do you have any suggestions for a clear coat? Also, on my last two builds I used an aerosol Gumbacher matt varnish after oil paints, etc. and it worked great - but it's really noxious so it's best used outside. Any suggestions for a good matt varnish too? Iv'e tried a lot but usually get a "frosty" result which really messes things up. Thanks!

[@Panzermeister36]

Thank you very much. Yes I don't ever use a gloss coat, so I don't have any recommendations there...but for a matte coat I always use Testors Dullcoat. Really you should seal between layers but I don't and I've never really had a problem with it. I like to work fast so waiting a couple of days for the clear coat to dry doesn't work for how I do things.

[@markrayton6385]

Outstanding model. I build aircraft but I can apply the same technique. Thanks so much for sharing. One quick question do you seal the oils in afterwards with a varnish. Thanks again.

[@Panzermeister36]

I usually don't seal them afterwards since they are a final step for me...but when I do I use XF-86 flat clear by Tamiya thinned about 70% with X-20A, airbrushed on.

[@pablocuesta3213]

Great video. Do you put a coat of varnish before apply the oil paint?

[@Panzermeister36]

I don't because I find that gloss makes the surface too smooth for the oils to work nicely.

[@Ennio444]

I suppose you need to apply some serious matte varnish later. The question is, do you need to apply the varnish once the oils have dried, or you don't need to wait?

[@Panzermeister36]

I just apply VMS Matte Varnish the following day once all the oils are done. If you properly leech the linseed oil out by leaving the blob of oil paint on a paper towel for ~4 hours before using them in the model, the oil paint will dry much faster. The VMS Oil Expert Matte thinner I use is also helpful. This is an older video of mine so it's not up to my current standards. If you have any further questions I can help you out.

[@Ennio444]

@@Panzermeister36 Thanks a lot!

[@01derendorf]

Why applying discoloration after weathering? You remove all the streaks and grime this way. Would do it before

[@sanderostvold]

Mate! That's some next level work right there. Are you going to put some mud on it?

[@Panzermeister36]

Rhank you Sander :) Yes I'm muddying up the StuG now

[@swing.wing_singh]

Great weathering there. Quick question. Can I use IPA or acetone as a thinner for oil paints?

[@Panzermeister36]

I'm not sure, but those sound they would cause problems with the underlying acrylic base paints. Turpentine or white spirits or enamel thinners are the best.

[@swing.wing_singh]

Cool. Thanks

[@mikewood4242]

I'm trying this method for highlighting on panzer grey basecoat using winsor newton white and looks like a winter whitewash.Not what I'm trying to do.Your style works great on dark yellow base but what oil color would you use on panzer grey?

[@Panzermeister36]

Hey Mike. I actually have a video on this where I did some oils on a panzer III. I'd recommend you use greys and blues rather than white.

[@mikewood4242]

Panzermeister36 Thanks.I tried some cobalt blue for highlighting and paynes grey for shadow.

[@JoeMakesModelKits]

Nice job! This just got me back in my mojo. BTW I'm building my first tiger from AFV club and I was wondering what camo I should use

[@Panzermeister36]

+Joe Makes Model Kits Thanks Joe! If you want to know anything Tiger you should check out Adam Mann's channel

[@jamesredmond6699]

Use the same thing green and yellow that color was on all fronts of wwll

[@Panzermeister36]

Not really, the initial 20 or so Tigers were panzer grey and the rest were all painted in tropical camouflage up until and including the battle Kursk. German camouflages are actually quite complicated.

[@jamesredmond6699]

@@Panzermeister36 I have done them all, green and yellow look the best that is just my opinion

[@glennwaterfield9442]

I've probably watched this video a dozen times, great stuff. I did an ambush camo scheme on a Hetzer that turned out way better than I expected. Then I got carried away with my dot filter (using artist oils) and weathering. The Hetzer now looks darker than I am happy with. Any suggestions on how to save it?

[@Panzermeister36]

Thanks Glenn! I'm not too sure....you could always do a dot filter or some rendering effects (like the fading I did here) with lighter colours and see if that lightens the effect? That will also tone down the camouflage a little more though, probably.

[@glennwaterfield9442]

Thanks so much. I will try a panel and see if it helps. I think I just left the oil on the pallette too long and it thickened. So when I applied it there was too much paint on my brush.

[@glennwaterfield9442]

So I did two things. 1) wet the Hetzer with thinner and then scrubbed lightly with a paper towel on all the panels. Helped a lot. Then 2) I mixed some light yellow and light green to filter the darker spots. It was very tricky to get the right color. I didn't bother with the brown. It looks MUCH better. I am very happy with it. WIsh I could post a pic. Thanks again, Panzermeister!

[@Panzermeister36]

Awesome! I'm glad it worked out for you :) and thanks for letting me know too. You can email me a photo at [e-mail] if you'd like!

[@shockmac]

You're really good thanks. How did you do the paint chipping?

[@Panzermeister36]

+Shockwave I did a tutorial on how I do chipping with acrylics here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/jGbUmWh_oMp7mbc

[@neilmackay7475]

mate amazing work keep it up😂

[@kryl186]

Hi.. Nice work... I want to ask, is enamel paint can be use the same way as oil paint..?

[@Panzermeister36]

You can do similar effects with enamel paints, but I find that oils are easier to use as they take longer to dry and are thicker out of the tube

[@zabilife]

How did you do the base yellow/beige? What colours did you use?

[@Panzermeister36]

60% XF-60 10% XF-4 30% XF-2

[@87mitchb]

Hi, do you apply streaks and washes before or after gloss coat?

[@Panzermeister36]

I don't even gloss coat it because I know the paints I use won't rear badly with each other. If you're unsure about that then you should apply a satin or gloss coat before the weathering effects.

[@dennisgraham3087]

BTW. did you put a clear coat down before you Used the oil paints?

[@Panzermeister36]

Yes usually I work over a satin or semigloss surface when doing oil paint weathering.

[@dennisgraham3087]

@@Panzermeister36 ok thanks. That helps me a lot

[@warwarneverchanges4937]

Always used and love oils a little more drying time but alot more control, I dont even pin wash anymore, I cant stand that second white ring that occures sometime. too bad the good oils are quite expencive, also trying to find a nice drying medium.

[@Panzermeister36]

I find that I can blend away that "tide mark" you speak of if I rub at it with a large soft brush when the thinners there are still just a little bit wet.

[@warwarneverchanges4937]

Yea I have tried that on the T-10 I did works great sort of a dry blend weathering, I really liked the result.

[@mediocreworker1234]

Can i use for example tamiya x20a or mig ammo acrylic thinner for oils on my model?. Happy modelling! and have a nice day Panzermeister36

[@Panzermeister36]

No, acrylic thinners won't work with oils, and neither will water. You'll need some oil thinners, but you can probably find some for cheap at your local artist's store. Just ask the employees and they should help you out. You could also try lighter fluid, as that should work with oils too. I use Wilder thinner and I'm pretty sure it's just lighter fluid....

[@mediocreworker1234]

Thank you very much sir!

[@isaaccook]

Cheers

[@SirTenoch]

Is this the same technique as “fading”???

[@twindecker]

Great tutorial as always. Was this before or after you applied a clear coat?

[@Panzermeister36]

+tyler windecker I never clear coat my models before I've completely finished the weathering process. I use thinners that won't react with any of the underlying products. First I sprayed Tamiya paints for the camouflage and thinned those paints with Tamiya's lacquer thinner. That thinner i find makes them a lot more durable and spray better too. Next up, the filter, and then the wash/streaking effect (combined into one here by leaving the wash a little thick and then playing it down the panels). Both of these products were enamel based and use the same thinner, but since the filter is a light effect on only really visible on the green areas, the streaking grime doesn't do anything visually to this filter; most of the streaks were done on yellow areas (i did some on the green later with oils as I show in the video). Then I did some acrylic chipping with paints that would have been re-thinned/attacked on the model by those last two products, but since i did it afterwards then there is no issue. Finally, all the oil paints, and the thinner i use here only thins oil paints so it does nothing to the previous effects. I know that the enamel thinner will thin the oil paints too, so this is my oils go on after those washes and stuff. Of course, I do this because I'm lazy and don't like waiting for any clear coats to dry, so this way its fast and pretty easy. Just working in layers ;)

[@twindecker]

ok i see. thanks for the tip! keep these great videos coming, i really enjoy them.

[@jacksonholmes9955]

howdy, all of the models I make are Tamiya cause ive had bad experiences with other companies. However, Tamiya doesn't make a lot of models that I wanna make. Can u recommend any good model companies to me besides Tamiya?

[@Panzermeister36]

I like Dragon and Trumpeter, however they are more complex than Tamiya. Still very fun to build and not too hard, except sometimes Dragon has confusing instructions.

[@jacksonholmes9955]

Ok...thanks and good work

[@thethirdman225]

Recent experience of an Academy Hetzer was good. Kit went together really well.

[@Panzermeister36]

TheThirdMan​ True; I haven't built any of them, but Academy makes a couple of Hetzers that are supposed to be very good. Link and length tracks too :) Thanks for letting me know!

[@jamesredmond6699]

Hobbie boss and academy depending on skill set all others more difficult

[@cesargabrielascenciovalder9372]

Hi friend please im need the number of the last green ...thanks so much.

[@Panzermeister36]

For the oil paint or what I used to spray the camouflage pattern?

[@Panzermeister36]

The Camo green was XF-21, the green oil paints were Green Earth and Emerald Green, which are standard colours.

[@alandance1399]

can you use any cheap oil paints. What you recommend. Another great vid

[@Panzermeister36]

The brands I use are pretty cheap and will last me forever. About $5 Canadian per tube.

[@alandance1399]

+Alan Dance what colours wood you use for a Sherman and panzer grey

[@Panzermeister36]

+Alan Dance on a green Sherman I'd use a beige, a dark green, and maybe a little turquoise but not too much if any. For panzer grey I would use a white, a dark blue, and some medium brown or beige

[@alandance1399]

any chance of a video on Dot filters

[@Panzermeister36]

+Alan Dance I'm working on one now

[@jamesmair4085]

Ace combat!

[@Panzermeister36]

+James mair Yes it is! Love those games and their soundtracks

[@math7652]

What is the green and yellow name?

[@Panzermeister36]

The old paints or the base colours of the camouflage?

[@MG-hx4fe]

Nope extra track and the running track did not rust up

[@Panzermeister36]

Extra tracks would for sure. Running tracks wouldn't as they're constantly in use. If you're curious, go look for original colour photos of Panzer IIIs or IVs.

[@MG-hx4fe]

also german tanks were not rusted or chipped like that you made a tank look like a post war that got transfered to syria after the war

[@whilstingdog]

Ha Ace Combat

[@eazyazpie3767]

why would there be a spare tire bracket covering up the tanks #? Get some better brushes & take care of them.

[@Panzermeister36]

These tanks were refitted from other StuGs and Panzer IIIs and were used as training vehicles so the numbers wouldn't be too important anymore.

[@Panzermeister36]

Also those are just about the best brushes I can get around here. All the local art stores were of the same chain and all closed down.

[@yohoyu6676]

Not panels those are hatches

[@Panzermeister36]

+gao yu They are hatches on a normal StuG III hull. This StuG III is one refitted from a Panzer III and so those are not openable hinged hatches; they're removable panels.

[@GeezRvonFart]

awesome vids you make.. do you seal the oil-paints or are they "tough" enough to withstand normal handling without damage? will acrylic lacquer stick to it or is solvent based the way to go?

[@Panzermeister36]

Acrylic lacquer should go well over top of the oils after they have completely dried. Just make sure they are in fact all dry since that may take a couple of days. I usually don't seal after the oils since not much weathering happens after that. If I were doing a pinwash or filter or streaking grime (something enamel based) after the oils then I would seal it, but I do those before or during the oil stage. Usually I just do chipping afterwards which is acrylic paint and doesn't affect the oil paints.

[@shoe2241]

what do you add to the oil paints to get that flat finish???

[@Panzermeister36]

Nothing. I just use good quality oil paints and apply them in thin coats.