Tutorial: Solar Panel Protection in Series and Parallel

[@kvne71x]

As a newbie to solar power, this is the clearest explanation of parallel and series connection and fuse usage I've seen. Thank you.

[@hamzaomari584]

Well done

[@oscarsebapumaphakane9461]

If not mistaken in series connection as current flow in and out of every solar, if one solar is faulty it means the circuit must be disfuctional. That means series is not good option

[@untungsuharto7991]

you are right...if want more higher voltage use solar panel 24v 100wp and so on.

[@ebikecnx7239]

Except he is not very clear and doesnt know what he's doing. National Electrical Code says no fuse is needed for series, it adds no protection. In parallel you only need if the total amps is more than the maximum series fuse value on back of panel.

[@cccinternational1095]

Thanks

[@hendrikjbboss9973]

There are many videos on this topic on KZbin but NOT ONE is as clear and to the point as this one. Your talent as a teacher is most definitely one of best and outstanding ever. 👏 I extended the number of panels for my system and could not have done it without this video. Thank you 😊 and be blessed 🙌

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

Wow, thank you very much. These are really kind words and great feedback.

[@amcable4169]

Excellent teaching, continue another vedio thank you brother

[@kingstonoto9624]

Your explanation is clear and simple to understand, Even a person who don't know about electrical wiring will still understand. Thank you very much.

[@mustaphatoheeb6180]

Wat I want to know is that,if d battery is 4 pieces of 12vott 220ah can will connect the panel in series

[@okellogerald8247]

The best solar teacher indeed

[@greenidentity3789]

This is a very simple and easy way of explaining parallel/Series connections as well as fusing/protecting the Solar panels. Thanks so much sir. I like your videos and your teaching style.

[@okoamadi]

As a new person to solar power, this is the clearest explanation of parallel and series connection and fuse usage I've seen. Thank you.

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

Thanks a lot for your kind feedback!

[@jonplace5525]

Finally; someone who can explain this stuff in a way that I understand. Thank you so much for talking the time to do this. You gained another subscriber today :)

[@nazirahmed7579]

Indeed is best and simple explanation I’m electric engineer I searched saw many Videos Always always use these instructions Thanks sir for this video هذا من افضل الفيديوهات التي شفتها بما اني مهندس كهرباء و هذا افضل و اسهل شرح و ارجو من الجميع باتباع تعليمات هذي و شكري لك استاذي الفاضل على هذا الجهد

[@fabianm.2982]

👍👌You don't go wrong with these old chaps when it comes to safety.

[@dariust3242]

Among all the millions o video showing and explain solar system, finally and finally one very clear and simple emplain the theory and SAFETY of it.Great !🎉

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

Thanks for your feedback!

[@fishfacecrab]

@@OffGridGarageAustralia Hello teacher. Can you please confirm if i have a simple 12v system for a camper i am best to run 2 panels in parallel. Am i right in thinking because i have a 12v system or battery then i 'must run the 2 panels in parallel. Im trying to increase my wattage from 160 to 320. It might be worth noting i have a 30amp mppt. Im still trying to work this all out and good advice is not easy to come by. Thanks kindly .....

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

@@fishfacecrabThat totally depends what panels you have and what solar charge controller you are using. Is it an PWM controller, most likely the panels go in parallel. If it is an MPPT, a series connection of the panels will give you a lot more power into the battery. But without having all the specs of the battery, panels and controller, I cannot tell.

[@carlreddevil7135]

Excellent, thank you so much for being concise and putting it in layman's terms. I'm a newbie at this and this has given me so much confidence to go ahead and try it myself.

[@davidbernard8979]

Great video! I paused, backed up, and replayed portions of this video multiple times as I ran the numbers with my own panels. Thank you for such great instruction!

[@aussiebattler8438]

One of the best presentations I've seen clearly spoken actual items used in explaining plus whiteboard perfect for beginners who genuinely want to learn from someone who actually knows what there talking about, reminded me of TAFE days I'm far from a beginner but subbing we never stop learning, and your content is actually pleasurable to watch with out scratching my eyes and ears our and watching in horror with the misinformation that idiots out there put up on the tube and people try it Thanks for putting qaulity content out there, don't stop doing what your doing thank you

[@MrBoo1963]

I have some changes to make on my new setup. It's my first and I like the way this guy explains it all. Some one else told me Seris was the way to go, but I had wondered because my test panels were not staying up with the demand of recharging my batteries, and now I know why.

[@ebikecnx7239]

This guy is a blowhard. National Electrical Code says no fuse needed for series, it adds no protection. In parallel you only need if the total amps is more than the maximum series fuse value on back of panel.

[@kevinbreaux6769]

I run my small system in parralel to get the most from shading issues seasonally. Great video

[@sumitd4u]

Any diode added between parallel panel ?

[@MansHobbsInterests]

​@@sumitd4uThere's normally a diod inside the connection box behind the panels

[@ronaldbailey8778]

one of the easiest explanations i have heard covers all bases

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

Thanks, Ronald!

[@williamhustonrn6160]

Just to add to your great video, the reason parallel is useful is in times of shading. When a solar panel is shaded, the cells on the panel are not excited that are in the shade, thus power can no longer pass through them, or very little can due to resistance in that specific pathway internally of the solar panel in a series system. As more of the solar panel is shaded you are cutting off/reducing the ability for electricity to flow through that panel as a whole, because now all the current has to move through the cells that are still in the sun. Since these cells are now flowing most of the amperage through the panel, they will heat up over time and either burn up if they reach their designed limit or in high-quality panels cut the circuit to the panel and the entire panel acts as an open via a thermal switch. Thus why when part of your panels is shaded they can cause far more solar losses than their proportionality to the solar circuit. The worst-case scenario is if the closest panel to the charge controller is shaded, then you have all the amperage in series behind it feeding through only a partial solar panel, which acts as a bottleneck to the rest of the solar panel circuit. Also blocking diodes is important on solar panels when they are placed in parallel because solar panels will actually draw power from a voltage source when it's completely in shade or at night. This is typically internal to the charge controller to protect the voltage sources, but if you run solar panels in parallel and on cloudy days, the panels with the most shade can rob power from the panels still getting some solar energy, thus reducing your overall solar output. So running blocking diodes on each parallel circuit in a combiner box prevents this from happening since the flow of power can only run in one direction. This is why a proper combiner box will increase your solar performance slightly on non-optimal periods of the day, especially the larger your solar system is.

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

Great addition and explanation, William. Thank you

[@ianb4801]

A very good, very clear explanation of things. It also makes me relieved given that I thought it unnecessary to fuse my 2x300W panels - because they are neither wired in parallel nor in series. I have 2 panels, each with its own MPPT controller with each controller having is own fuse between controller and battery bank input bus. It amounts to redundancy at sea. Each panel also has an isolation switch between controller and panel, so I can’t easily shock myself. But it also makes it fun when people ask me “are these panels wired in series or in parallel?” - and I can simply say “No!”

[@scottsmith1686]

Excellent presentation, clear, concise, with great visuals! Thanks!!

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

Thanks a lot!

[@ojochenemiekwueme164]

honestly speaking this is a very perfect explanation, am a newbie but i think understand this clearly. thank you very much dad

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

No problem, son! 😉

[@missingMBR]

A good clear and helpful video. However it overlooked one important factor. Solar panels have maximum series fuses, and the panels in this video have max series fuse rated at 15A. The max series fuse rating means that all internal circuits of the panel can handle 15A. So in the first scenario if a panel shorts, and the two other panels send 10A through the faulty panel, there will be no damage. However if there was another panel in the string, then 15A could be sent through the faulty panel, and potentially damage the panel. What this means is if the total current from the other panels do not exceed the max series fuse rating, then you don't need additional fuses.

[@МаринаМишина-ц2р]

Absolutely. It's the only mistake in Andy's video. Maximum series fuse rating (MSFR) should be considered, not the Imp or Isc. BTW, these panels have 10A MSFR, not 15A. MSFR is listed on the sticker, along with other parameters. 2:28

[@missingMBR]

@@МаринаМишина-ц2р good spotting. Not sure where I got 15A from now

[@ebikecnx7239]

You are correct, this guy is all wrong. National Electrical Code says no fuse needed for series, it adds no protection. In parallel you only need if the total amps is more than the maximum series fuse value on back of panel.

[@mustaphatoheeb6180]

​@@ebikecnx7239Wat did u mean in total amps is more than maximum series fuse value

[@InterdimensionalWanderer]

Really nice explanation, I understand now. All the other videos I tried to use to learn about fuses were so boring and theoretical I couldnt watch them but this video explains things in an interesting way.

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

Thanks a lot for your kind feedback!

[@orinstrumentalrocksongs3726]

For that purpose a diode is better instead of a fuse. One way power, no risk of fire with diodes, and they make it in MC4 plug, very easy to install, just add the diode mc4 adapter to the positive of every panel in parallel or the positive of every string in series. They are very useful to protect panels when one of them are in shade and the others are in full sun.

[@johneneojowilliams5081]

I thought industrial panels have inbuilt diodes... Why add another?

[@hansmaulwurf8027]

They have bypass diodes. There are for panels which are shaded in serial connection. A diode on the positive end will help not having any back current into a panel. But if this fails the panel still can be destroyed. You should still put a fuse next to the diode.

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

A diode can never replace a fuse! A fuse is a safety device which will disconnect your circuit in case of a fault.

[@technicalbihari980]

Diode is not save because high reverse curent can damaged the diode and diode became short circuit...

[@kevinschuler3286]

I am no expert but I would agree based on experience that at least a diode helps to prevent that current flows backward to a panel (..or power source in general) which Voltage is lower than the others in a parallel circuit (bc shade,aging,other panel type). Diode will furthermore break if max load is reached (i heard in few cases it could be short cutted, but not shure if this is really the case..) Not expensive as well, the only downside i see is the voltage drop of around 0.3- 0.7 volts. If i am wrong explain me please in detail what i misunderstand, thanks

[@Isaac-q7l7k]

Indeed I've been able to learn a lesson, and I'm willing to relocate. I'm a solar installer technician with 3years working experience

[@StrictFit23]

Such a great video, thank you! Every video I watched on connecting in series was so complicated, and then you just explained it perfectly in about 10 seconds!

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

Wow, thanks so much for your feedback.

[@autosousao61]

@@OffGridGarageAustralia I have 15 batteries hooked together as a 12 volt bank and I have 2 -150 watts solar panels how should I hook the solar panels in series or parallel?

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

@@autosousao61 That all depends on what solar charge controller you have, what details the panels have and what kind of batteries they are. You need to look into the specs of all that...

[@henrykoteikotey6653]

Henry Thank you very much ,you have really educated me on how to fix solar panels in series or in parralle

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

Thanks a lot, Henry.

[@johnflower8384]

Better series diodes than fuses!

[@theodorekaxiris644]

I agree,you can put diode in each panel in series on positive of each.🙋🇬🇷

[@MemoryChota]

4:01 I in my😊​@@theodorekaxiris644

[@Rostol]

what a great series of videos you made. you should make a playlist of "solar basics/safety" and "installing victron devices" just in case anyone reads this, bear in mind that MC4 connectors are only rated for 30A so the 4 into 1 is only ok for smallish panels.

[@Nic7320]

You don't always need a series fuse on a series connected solar string. Short circuit current (Isc) of a solar panel is so close to your maximum power point current (Impp) that it will never blow in a fault condition, and your wires HAVE to be sized to handle Isc so there is no risk of damaging the wires. Solar panels are not like AC power mains or a big DC power supply with huge amounts of current available (that require fuses) in that a solar panel self-limits the maximum current to the Isc value. Series strings only add up their voltages, but not their current. Only in a parallel configuration, can solar panels have more current available in a short circuit than the wires can handle. That's when you need fuses on each panel. However, Electrical codes do require a solar disconnect, so if you don't have a switch to do this, a fuse or circuit breaker or connector set can be used as a disconnect, if it is located somewhere convenient while you work on the equipment. If you have surge protectors on your solar panels, then a fuse may be necessary in any configuration.

[@Misteribel]

@Nic Shouldn’t you have a fuse on your main solar panel supply in case your mppt shorts (or you otherwise connect the ends of the solar array)? I understand that the cables will hold and that the current flow won’t be more than the panel is rated for, but doesn’t a shorted array (or individual panel) cause damage to the panel? Genuinely wondering, I learned that it was required, but now I’m not so sure.

[@clintoncoker6]

​@@Misteribel If your fuse is sized to blow at a higher current than your series array current, if your mppt controller shorts the positive and negative of the array, the fuse will not help you, because the current will always be less than the fuse rating. Basically, no matter what you or the controller do wrong with the positive or negative of the series array, the fuse will never blow. I've yet to see an explanation as to why you should use a fuse on a series array of panels.

[@ebikecnx7239]

You're right, this guy is a blowhard. National Electrical Code says no fuse needed for series, it adds no protection. In parallel you only need if the total amps is more than the maximum series fuse value on back of panel.

[@harrywynne2839]

@@clintoncoker6In the case of multiple strings of series connected panels, fusing each string will protect a damaged string from all the other strings dumping their current into it. In that case, the fuse will blow on the damaged string. I have 6 strings of 3 panels each string, with a fuse in each string in the “combiner” box. In fact the box also included a diode in addition to the fuse for each string. Perhaps the diode was primary reverse current flow protection, with the fuse being a disconnect means for service/maintenance on the string.

[@gettinintonature3350]

Class dismissed ! Well done Sir, You have unblocked and unlocked an extremely dusty door. My brain thanks you !

[@kevinh7985]

Thanks Andy, once again you have helped clarify an few things and helped me understand my options better. I will have 2 360 W panels and I will use 2 MPPT in order to minimize the impact of shadows. Boats typically have issues with the sails blocking parts of the panels. I sized my controllers to optimize for this. I now have a better understanding my other option to use a single controller and the fusing options in the event one controller fails.

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

Thanks, Kevin. That sounds like a good solution and I would do the exact same thing.

[@julieth3699]

Excellent explanation! Thanks so much for such a clear and concise video!

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

You are welcome. Glad you found it useful.

[@AidyBaker]

Great explanation. You may have covered this in subsequent videos but worth noting that power loss in cables is related to current squared, so for the same power, a higher voltage gives less losses than a higher current. Conversely, the charge controller will need to be rated for the total voltage which, for your 36v panel example adds up quickly. The whole thing is a balancing act between what the equipment will safely handle and what values you need at certain points... Irrespective of those tiny suggestions, Still a great video! Keep them coming!! 🙂👍

[@chriswf]

So... where do you find the balance point between volts and amps? Do you stack volts until you max out the equipment voltage, then start running in parallel? So if they're 12v panels, and you have 12 of them, but your system charger maxes out at 36v... You'd do 3S4P (to gain the benefits of less loss through voltage)? I'm starting with a small (4 panels) Renogy solar setup for my shed. But their instructions show either series or parallel - not a combination of the 2 (2S2P).

[@AidyBaker]

@@chriswf 12v panels will have a higher open circuit voltage and that's what you'll need to take into account. (Probably more like 20v rather than 12v). My approach is to take open circuit voltages as high as I can (using serial connections), maintaining a sensible headroom safety margin as over voltage will damage MPPT.

[@VeganBotany]

Each panel should get it's own fuse before the branch connector and the charge controller. I have been trying to find this information explained on Google and on KZbin, not as easy to find as I would have thought.Thank you for explaining this so thoroughly for those who are having a difficult time understanding. I love your accent!

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

Thank you, Ashley. Appreciate your feedback.

[@a64738]

If the panels is connected in series or alone there is no need for fuses because the short circuit ampere is exactly the same as normal operation amperes, meaning the fuses will have no effect and never break and never protect anything...

[@miketsla4192]

Really enjoying this project and explanations Andy, thank you!

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

Thank you Mike, much appreciated!

[@Handydam]

Excellent video. I understand things much better regarding solar. I bought a 4-100 watt panel system for my truck camper got 1-10amp fuse so thought I only needed one. Well I installed and the fuse blew. Now have connected 4 fuses /one per panel and it works like it suppose too.

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

Thank you, I assume the panels are all in parallel?

[@ucandoit101]

Love your simple and plain tutorial!

[@williamelieza]

I love the way you explain is very simple to understand and showing us how to fuse panels in series and parallel is very simple to understand. Thank you so much for making this clear and precise. Your Video is one of the best i had seen so far. cheers from Fiji

[@adrewdio2694]

Thanks for that excellent presentation and can you discuss grounding of solar array frames and if that's needed with a #8 Diameter wire?

[@Cosmicnomadzaa]

Just watched this, you saved me alot of problems when I did my build. Thank you for your time

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

Thanks a lot!

[@gregsheridan]

It seems that you are doing system sizing calculations based on panel Vmp and not panel Voc. The voltage open circuit is needed (with temperature correction) to correctly select the charge controller. For example, you could have a panel with 18.6Vmp and a 22.3Voc (at 25C). If you selected a 100V MPPT to string 5 panels together in series you will actually damage the controller even though the Vmp of 5panels is 93V. The Voc is over 111V and higher when temperatures are low. Up to about 133V in freezing conditions. The MPPT would need to be 150V not 100V to support this.

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

That is correct, thank you.

[@richardsirois6975]

I have a degree in Math witch is a lot about electricity. I today understood for the first time what I learned about 49 years ago. thank you so much. Shocking.

[@zarbonida]

Are you serious?

[@hopehope938]

Andy, thanks for taking the time and effort to explain. Your a very good teacher. I am wanting to build a system with four 50 watt solar panels with about three amps each and I want to connect my solar panels in both parallel and in series to build a 24 volt system in order to learn and understand and if I ever want to go to a 48 volt system I can at a later date. Yes at times it is confusing changing one component in a solar set up can change everything from the wirer AWG size. Thank you Regards Hope

[@DL-kc8fc]

If you only have 4 panels of 50W per test, you don't have to deal with anything. You will simply build a new system later, for example with 130W panels and 24V. You can use the original 50W panels separately for sunrise or sunset.

[@hopehope938]

Thanks for your advice and information. I am still learning and I only have a limited amount of space for Solar Panels. Where most Solar Panels manufacturer's want to sell me large solar panels I just wished that solar panel technology was moving fast forward as batteries are now. I am now experimenting with three different batteries and there all manufacturered by different manufacturing companies and one is a AGM and two are lithium. I have to learn and understand the basic technology. I feel like hands on experimenting with batteries will teach me a lot. I have one lithium 20AH very little about the batteries was online and NO users manual was online. I wanted to get a few of them and connect them in serial and in par. But the manufacturer only wants two batteries connected :-(. I wanted to use them in a solar generator I wanted to build they only weight four pounds each. I want a marine SOK 206 ah battery that is on my wish list. I am still trying to learn and understand DIY off grid solar I want to use it on Farm/Ranch. Happy Holidays Regards Hope

[@DL-kc8fc]

@@hopehope938 Any combination has its advantages and disadvantages. Therefore, the manufacturer recommends a kind of minimalism. Although the series connection of the batteries adds up the voltage, it produces only as much current as the weakest cell. For example, 10Ah + 9Ah + 10Ah = 9Ah. A cell with a lower capacity has a higher internal resistance and will be discharged quickly. To charge, you need a balancer to charge the cells evenly. A weak link could heat up and be destroyed. The parallel connection adds up the current (capacity), but the voltage is like the strongest link. There is a risk of a short circuit of the weakest cell with a small capacity, into which a larger current flows than to the others. Therefore, the manufacturer recommends connecting exactly the same batteries of the same age and not creating too long strings. It's better to buy a ready-made power bank, but I understand that it's expensive. If you have a 4x50W solar array, I would definitely buy one 1.2 kWh traction battery (12V 100Ah, or 24V 50Ah). It's not expensive. This battery will be fully charged by your 200W solar array in 6 hours (theoretically if the battery has been discharged). It lasts 20 years in continuous charging mode...

[@hopehope938]

@@DL-kc8fc Hello: I am using diy off grid solar on Ranch/Farm so costs and cost containment is a big concern. Also in rural and isolated locations I can not afford to leave high dollar lithium batteries laying about unsecured. I did think that 20 ah lithium batters might give me a break in cost if I did buy them in bulk. I wanted to work with them and experiment. As a kid one of my jobs was to check on and monitor Lead Acid batteries with the filling of distilled water for Electric Fences. One of the projects I want to build is a diy veterinarian trailer to treat livestock that is self contained and solar powered. That has solar panels on the roof plus also has the option to plug in to ground mounted solar panels and a battery bank to plug in to. Plus also has a living space. I have been in three major western USA brush firers and I have been out of ranching from 2008. I want to get back in to ranching but I am trying to figure out my options and trying to use my limited cash to its best use. My expertise is working with cattle,sheep, and meat goats. In the past from fall to late spring it was the 24/7 caving,lambing,kidding, and calving. I know the only way to be successful is with the necessary setup and equipment. Regards Hope

[@arshadshaheen1752]

I saw your first video yesterday, don't remember which one but after watching some of it I couldn't resist to subscribe your channel. Why? I think every one here agrees that you are such a humble, polite, generous and of course very cute person. Love to hear your voice, the way you explain in detail, try to put your best by not leaving any penny behind. May Allah Pak put his blessings upon you. Love and greetings from Pakistan

[@AB-C1]

Great video, I'm thinking of building my own off Grid solar system and building my own batteries aswell (despite having never done anything like this before but I'm binge watching and learning all things regards battery cells, solar set ups options and all off Grid info in preparation) as thinking of building out a campervan in the next year or so, but might even do the set up in the garden before and to dial it all in ana run some stuff in the house or whatever before hand just for the experience before a van install... this video was very helpful and I've subscribed straight away 👍 also checking out panels and different cells all evening and reviews of the latest on market best value at best performance, so thanks for extra the information, will watch some more of your other videos for sure.. 👍🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿

[@campbellsoup4910]

What up Doe!? Very, very good information!! I've watched 100 vids on solar panels and nobody talks about how to make them safe. Great job 👍🏼

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

Thanks a lot!

[@Rehoboth-Solutions]

Thanks for the video. Question isn't the maximum fuse rating (MFR)stated on the back of the panel? If so, shouldn't the fuse that is used be less than that amount (stated). This however (as i understand it)is not needed If total array AMPS does not exceed the MFR. So in the MFR is 15a and the total PV array is 12a then no fuse is needed but if it were 20a then a fuse would be needed. I am no expert, but I learned this from the diy camper guy.

[@ebikecnx7239]

You're right, this guy is a blowhard. National Electrical Code says no fuse needed for series, it adds no protection. In parallel you only need if the total amps is more than the maximum series fuse value on back of panel.

[@muky05]

Thank you so much for this clear and precise explanation. I have never thought of fusing my solar panels, but now, I know it is needful to do that.

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

Thank you for your feedback.

[@patrickedwards7897]

Thank you so much for explaining that. You are the only one that I found that told me what I need to know.You should win an award for this. I am subscribing to your channel just because of this video.

[@andreastruc1223]

Whaou! Thank you for this information. I have only 2 panels for my motorhome connected in parallel to not heat my MPPT unnecessarily with a 24v battery. I wanted to add 2 extra in the summer with the air conditioning. I wouldn’t have thought of the fuse to protect. No resellers informed me yet I asked if there were precautions to take.

[@dstevens7614]

Well done, Again!!! What about in-line MC-4 fuses. Could this be easier and /or more weather resistant? Your Opinion holds lots of weight. I dont want to confuse the electrons. 😳

[@billywalton87]

I would love to know the answer to this as well

[@amoscamosaiissah9231]

@@billywalton87 hello

[@amoscamosaiissah9231]

@@billywalton87 hello

[@amoscamosaiissah9231]

Hello

[@amoscamosaiissah9231]

@@billywalton87 billy teach me about solar

[@indianb1918]

Thanks for the info. I am going to install a solar panel and i will now make sure that I add a fuse to it.

[@timfriedenheim3825]

Thank you for sharing your knowledge! great focus on safety really helpful, I like your provision for overcurrent fault protection, would you consider additional forms of protective devices on a system operating above 50v? Kind Regards Tim

[@noneya3504]

Enjoyed you explanation on the needs for fuses and how to do parallel and series configuration. Very easy to understand.

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

Thanks a lot!

[@SVAdAstra]

Another great video. Thanks! With parallel arrays, I use Schottky steering diodes instead of fuses, which prevents any reverse current at all from entering into a defective panel. Just make sure the diode current rating is well above the short circuit current rating of the panel, and that the diode peak inverse voltage rating is well above (a factor of 2 is prudent) the panel open circuit voltage. I don't trust a partial fault into a defective panel to be sufficient to blow a series fuse before it causes a catastrophic failure. So why not entirely prevent reverse current flow with a diode instead? The voltage drop across a Schottky diode is very low, on the order of 0.2 volts (fuses have losses too), and the cost is far less than a fuse and quality fuse holder.

[@timfriedenheim3825]

Interesting points you raise, could I please clarify your thoughts...... are the diodes mentioned specified by the manufacturers suitable to the environmental condition of service eg temp, humidity, life cycle. Do they fail to safety, maintainability in terms of replacement without use of soldering kit.... compliance to regulations ( in UK its BS7671 ) ie can a diode replace a fuse as overcurrent protection.

[@PETERAGAME]

It's gives clear understanding of how to connect Solar panels in parallel and series with fuse connected.

[@awk1748]

What happen if we put a diode. There would be voltage drop like 0.7v for sure, but it would totally stop reverse current flowing back in solar panel. Any suggestions...

[@Shadi2]

This is the correct solution. You need a diode at your load called a "blocking diode" and one at each panel called a "bypass diode". The bypass diodes do not normally carry current, only if the panel is shaded or faulty. The blocking diode needs to be rated to carry the total current.

[@fishmanfairclough7530]

A blocking diode should hopefully be a part of your panel already unless you made your own.

[@engr.fatobakolawole2366]

@@fishmanfairclough7530ok xnks

[@dannybalisi6744]

gd day sir, i have 6pcs 200w solar panel in serries connection the VMP is 18.5, IMP is 10.82. my question is how many amp do i need to put in fuze box? thanks sir i hope you answer my question ⁉️

[@johnq8792]

Use shottky diodes with less voltage loss

[@gabrieltjitjo4921]

Great work sir. I appreciate and would like to work with you more on these projects. Again thanks for the informative lecture.

[@theNEWTful]

MC4 connectors are rated at 30A......a 4-multi branch parallel connector would mean only 7.5A per string.....that's pretty low these days. Not a good idea to cook the output MC4.

[@stereva5756]

I'm from moldova ,but understood all.great video with sample language

[@marcoarpago]

nice video, actually if you parallel your panels I think is better to use a diod so if one of the pane is in shade no current will flow from the other panes to the one in the shadow. When you put panels in series they alredy have bypass diods so you only need one fuse unless the string in series is in parallel to another string, in that case you will also need a diod.

[@johnjoseph562]

Thank you very much for your explanations in detail. I appreciate your effort for us to understand the solar panel fusing. I am from Cochin, India.

[@vasilispapas482]

Some notices that i thing are very importand: 1. There are boosting chargers which can charge a battery from a lower source voltage (They are called DC to DC converters or DC toDC chargers) 2. Fuses must be calculated on power and NOT on amperes because in case that they have made for a different voltage probably will not fuction properly . Fuses have typed on their bodies both amperes and volts and some other codes about their reaction time under full power (Instant or deley blow) That i want to say is that a 5A 250V fuse needs to melt 1250Watt power wich means that if we put this specific fuse in a circuit with 50Volts the current which need to melt rice to 25Amperes!!!!! So the proper 250Volts Fuse to protect a 5Amperes 50Volts circuit is 1Ampere!!! Give special attention when choise fuses , because any mistake in calculations is serious reason for a future disaster. The same for the low Voltages battery fuses . 3.PVs , PVChargers (PWM and MPPT) and Batteries work with DC . DC has two enemies : Distance and cables diameter . As longer the distance we want to transfer the dc current so much biger diameter cables we need to use. Because dc current transfered on the surface of the cables and not in the core , we use multistrand cables wich have significant more surface than comon cables especialy when we have to handle DC power (Battery cables , yelding machines , PVs etc) As result of the above is that a parralel pv system needs significant larger cables than these wich need the same system as string (serial) especialy when there is distance between PVs and Charger - Inverter (for the grid tide systems) Sir You make excellent job and i hope you keep up!

[@chelsea15305]

My grandad made me watch this. I don't care too much for it but it was explained very well so I understood. I guess I learned something at least

[@allinclusive5762]

If this were the case, the bypass diodes would also have to be defective! This is very unlikely!

[@akibsi112]

Thank you for such simple and clarified explaination

[@billing100]

how about diod? will it protect panel by allowing current to go to only right direction.

[@L-udo]

Solar panels are diodes. You end up with the same problem

[@calebiwule7812]

@@L-udo Wow.

[@zebra5star925]

Brilliant explanation. Simplified to the understanding of laymen. Thanks

[@GoCoyote]

Most quality charge controllers have reverse current protection built in and will actually disconnect from the PV modules when not charging. A decent MPPT controller makes a great deal of difference in the amount of usable power one can get from your PV modules. Especially if it allows for high voltage PV series strings, as one can get usable voltage above that of your system even when cloudy. My 6kW array wired for 600 volts with a Schnieder MPPT controller will still charge my 48 volt system with 1kw even when it is raining in all but the densest cloud cover. Buy a decent MPPT charge controller and forget about the blocking diode!

[@errolyapp4286]

You're right. Diode there can protect.

[@noahriding5780]

If you buy a cheap charge controller, it can mess up your entire system. You want something good for the controller.

[@kalubachibesa2328]

Great teaching... watching from Zambia

[@geoffschulz]

Why not use a diode instead of a fuse? If a panel doesn't produce an output high enough to meet the output voltage, it simply behaves as though it is disconnected. This would be particularly useful if you have a temporary loss of output from a panel, such as shade from a tree or building. Once the shade moves, the panel can rejoin the system.

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

No, a diode is not a safety device and will not protect your circuitry. You can however use a fuse and a diode.

[@Ko_deZ]

At 5A and 0.5V drop across the diode, you have 2.5W heat in that diode, so ensure you have a good heat sink. The diode would protect against the scenario mentioned in the video. Not all panel failures are the same though.

[@daandupau8013]

Most modern solar panels already include diodes in the black box on the back of the panel. Commonly 3 sometimes more

[@falookkanyamazero3544]

In solar panel there is already a diodes

[@johnle231]

@@daandupau8013yes. Diode for each string

[@Sam-mx2pi]

Wonderful video. Info @ 14:00 is particularly huge for this RV'er. But everyone should watch the whole thing! Informative!

[@daveevans1236]

The best explanation I've seen. Well done Sir!

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

Thanks a lot, Dave!

[@chansuihing1416]

Lovely ! Sincerely god bless you !

[@thecatat7]

Thank you for this lesson! It was excellent, well-presented and very easy to understand in a practical way.

[@fc436]

Very good explanation. I heard the biggest absurdity from people about. Diodes, fuse on a single panel,diode between mppt and panel... Just only a detail. Fuse will be sized not on max power current. But on the spec ""max admitted reverse current " . And this is bigger than max power current. Example: on halfcut 450w 144 cells panel with 10A Max power current, is 20A. In most of cases of a decent panel, also find "max series fuses rating" and is the same of reverse current.

[@JohnsonUkpai14]

Thanks. I could really understand the series and parallel connection through this video

[@DickieBird888]

This was really useful. Thanks..... Need to add 3 fuses to my 3 panel 12 volt, 360 watt system....

[@Stormshadows1]

Nice video! I noticed a mistake in the series connection explanation. You mentioned it requires a 10A fuse, but the panel label actually recommends using a 15A fuse for string configuration. For Parallels connection 10A is fine.

[@JuniorlasaJt]

That is what I like thanks for explaining how it's probably processed

[@bobbyjoe6250]

The best explanation I've seen. Bravo!

[@sylvesteroparaugo5140]

The series is the best

[@peterigbineweka6881]

Thank you so much sir, I really enjoyed your teaching because your explanation was very clear. Pls try and produce the full connection that involves Pv, battery, inverter and the other accessory. Thanks

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

Thanks Peter. This is all covered in future episodes, I guess...

[@StansE250]

As Always, a Delightful presentation. Very Clear. My Dilemma is that my MOBILE Solar application has some (Unique) characteristics. My 48V 400W panels will be Stacked. Top panel receiving ‘energy’ constantly. And Lower panel only receiving energy when I am Parked, and it is deployed via slides. I want to be as SAFE as absolutely possible. However, the slightly uncommon application that I planned leaves me quite perplexed ……. 🤔 Separately, regarding isolating the panels from the rest of the system equipment, a Solar Expert in AUS on a separate channel basically stated that even the rotary switch style isolators aren’t totally safe for isolating …. BUT, he failed to state What IS …

[@tomharmon2631]

Very good info. I better understand how the two circuits work and the importance of the use of fuses for safety. Tom

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

Thanks for the feedback, glad it helped and you benefit from it.

[@AduiMiltonoga]

May God bless you,i have learned and ready to follow your instructions please while watching your videos here in karenga district uganda kampala

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

Thank you very much.

[@sebastienstephanno6814]

Thanks Andy I'm running a 12kw Growatt and I'm learning to hard way

[@zafarulhassan5285]

Very simple and clear explanation, excellent sir

[@lkgan3995]

Simple clear language's explanation. ❤

[@mesafirstkids]

Such a great video. Very helpful and easy to follow.

[@RajeshKumar-ry4on]

Great video, looking for your next videos on DC mcb

[@ashrafothman5227]

Thank you so much. Loud n clear. You are a good instructor

[@explorethenature9304]

That's a great explanation sir.. I will watch again for your next video.. I learn something about electricity connection for amp, and voltage

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

Thank you for your feedback.

[@lawrencedavidson6195]

Nice video with accurate info. Greetings from sunny Jamaica.

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

Thank you and hello to sunny hot Jamaica.

[@kaapuutt]

Am at school again, awesome man

[@polywog9591]

Subscribed! Great, concise, straight to the point. Thank you!

[@Zerpersande]

I’m putting my 3 x 175W panels in parallel simply because if they are in series and one panel is in shade the entire system’s output is hindered. But I enjoyed the clip simply because I can see how I an physically going to connect the wires so they don’t blow around when I’m driving.

[@mrrohitha]

Sir it's soo sweet explanation. I'm very much happy and got more and more Ideas from all your secessions. Please keep it up looking forward many more tips about off grid systems.

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

Thank you, I will

[@jasonyannuccelli2499]

Man, you are awesome… I am learning so much from following your videos. 👌🏻

[@Bamagaj]

Thank you so much for this free explanations

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

You're very most welcome!