Two Sides Mold with Blue Stuff

[@greenstuffworld]

I do not recomend you Green Stuff for copying guns, take into account that green stuff, once is dried, is a little bit flexible, so your gun copies will have the cannon a little bit flexible. I recommend you milliput instead, since once is dried is much harder. If you are trying to duplicate something very long and thin, you may put a needle inside.

[@DustyTheKitty]

Green Stuff World Videos Hey there! just saw the reply, I did end up trying some green stuff and while the model looks pretty good your right about the large flexibility issue, I'll track down some milliput then and give that a go. Many thanks! There, done, 10 packs of that milliput stuff on its way, cant wait :D

[@greenstuffworld]

ArmouredLemming Please, take pictures and show them at our creative site: www.greenstuffworld.com it would be really appreciated

[@Splatterpunk_OldNewYork]

Good advice.

[@dak6853]

Going to reproduce a lot of Necron bits for some conversions... A lot...

[@greenstuffworld]

Please, take pictures and show them at our creative site: www.greenstuffworld.com/creative it would be really appreciated

[@dak6853]

Of course, but it could take some time because its a difficult conversion, not just a gun or something...

[@commandermcnash5137]

So, how did it go? I now have an additional squad of deathmarks from the box using milliput, also I got from 1 box of venomthropes 2 neurothropes, 2 units of venomthropes and 2 units of zoanthropes and a total of 4 units of tyranid warriors from 2 warriors boxes (I should have made tyranid primes but oh well, didn't think that), I think I will use green stuff for the immortal backs due the cables they got requiring some bending.

[@whitelemonade5590]

@@commandermcnash5137 I know it’s been a while, but how did they end up? I tried making a necron warrior with some milliput and a blue stuff mold, but it ended up quite messy. The limbs ended up very thick and the mold just all around wasn’t great. Any specific techniques or tips you have?

[@gwiazdapioun2127]

This is gonna be useful for what-if aircraft models as well, because now I won't have to snoop for leftover parts or scouring the aftermarket for scrap models, I can just copy parts I need. For example I'm working on an improved Yak-38 with different engine arrangement and wings, and for that I've decided to use wings from SEPECAT Jaguar. With Blue Stuff, I'm just gonna copy the entire part for my what-if Yak and use the original to finish the Jaguar model.

[@greenstuffworld]

A great idea!

[@hectorflorespauner3404]

And I check the molds once or twice and make sure they are good molds, with all the detail and that fit perfect with wholes made for the joining.

[@GreenskinHolland]

How long does it take for the milliput to dry ?

[@greenstuffworld]

+GreenskinHolland 90minutes to be more or less cured. 24h to be 100% cured. After 90minutes you may take it out an modify/rectify mistakes easily

[@Sinalsa]

I tried with miliput standard... Total failure... Any help?

[@nodoka63]

Is it possible to mold a little piece, like a LoTR spear ?

[@ShadowMaelstrom]

I molded flayed one claws from the oop metal flayed one. It is possible. Just fiddly

[@TheWarpForge]

Thanks for the Vid! Will be buying some blue stuff in the near future!

[@padwoofpadwoofington3151]

Know I'm a bit late to the party on this one however I'm having trouble casting a clone of this exact leg piece featured in this video, everytime I take the cured milliput out the back half of the hip joint is larger than the from half.

[@greenstuffworld]

You need to repeat the wrong half mold, it may be too big in the hip joint. Also, if you make the mold too thin, the mold and therefore the pieces may get deformed when pressing the molds to impress the details. You should also make the blue stuff mold thicker.

[@padwoofpadwoofington3151]

@@greenstuffworld I have tried redoing the mold for both halves multiple times. However I hadn't thought of the thickeness of the bluestuff being a factor, I'll try again but with thicker molds this time. Thanks for the advice

[@mariolasan]

Hi, I've been trying now to create a mold for some shoulder pieces, and for some reason the pieces that comes out are much larger than the originals. Any ideas on why that might be? Could it be that I don't wait enough for the 1 part of the mold to cool down enough, as the two pieces tend to be quite hard to pull apart. Can that morph the mold causing my problem? Or might I simply be using too much putty? Any thoughts and ideas would help!

[@greenstuffworld]

Your molds are too thin, so your pressure is deforming the copies. You need to re-make the molds using more blue stuff.

[@mariolasan]

Cheers for the quick reply, will try again later today.

[@foabmoab]

I've had a few issues with getting the Milliput to fill all the spaces in my mold, particularly with something with corners, or creating the mold around something small like a gun. I've tried putting a weight on these for a better imprint, but the heavy book I place on top tends to squash them too much and shift the upper half. I'm definitely doing something wrong.

[@greenstuffworld]

Fill those corners alone, then fill the rest of the mold. Regarding your mold, It seems that your molds are too thin, so the heavy book is squashing the mold and the figure inside. For my demon I used a table to squash the 2 parts molds.

[@foabmoab]

Thanks :)

[@keithtam8859]

I am trying to copy a large curved piece with instant mold without success..... would air dry clay be any good for molding material?? thank you.

[@MarchioVincenzo]

Do you think that mixing green stuff and milliput is a good idea? I heard that you get the best of both (flexibility from green stuff and thoughness from milliput). Also do you put the double mold under a table leg? How do you keep the molds from slipping?

[@greenstuffworld]

+Macrat Do you really need flexibility in a copied piece? normally not. I would suggest you to use only milliput, although using the mix will be also valid. Another good mix of putties to get hard copies will be to mix brown stuff + green stuff. Yes, we put the double molds during the curing time under a big weight, so do not make the mold too thin if not the copied pieces will be too slim. How do we make to avoid slipping? never happen to me yet... I would suggest you to make conexion holes in 1 mold side before adding the second mold side, d'u know what I mean?

[@MarchioVincenzo]

+Green Stuff World Community yeah i understand! the thing is that i want to drill in the new pieces, and i'm afraid that hardened milliput will be too brittle! how is it for drilling?

[@greenstuffworld]

+Macrat If you need to drill it, use Brown Stuff, it will hard as a rock and you will be able to drill it with total security. Green stuff will be also good, but it will remain flexible after dry, and depending on the shape and thickness of the piece may tear apart. We sell brown stuff at similar prices than green stuff at our site.

[@dragoon130]

May I ask how heavy of a weight? I just tried it for the first time and it seems more weight would help for slightly crisper details, I used a liquid filled bottle weighting about 4.5 kg. I am waiting on Milliput to arrive in the mail as well as the green stuff didn't work as well.

[@Cyclobomber]

Can you use blue stuff to make a press mold for resin minis? I have a few pieces I would like to recast from a handful of resin models I have not assembled yet, and they would work great for a build I plan on doing.

[@greenstuffworld]

Yes, no problem to use resins, it also works.

[@leironrescordado4271]

Hello sir. Did you use any mold release for the epoxy putty so when it dries it would not stick to the Blue Stuff mold? Thank You sir! Great Vid!

[@greenstuffworld]

No, no mold release is needed. The epoxy won't stick.

[@minimotions1298]

What did you use to make the actual thing being molded? The grayish yellowish stuff that came out of the mold?

[@greenstuffworld4378]

We used milliput standard, the cheapest. You can find it for 4€ in our website. Regards,

[@davide1345]

I can use green stuff instead of milliput, if yes what is the main difference?thx!

[@greenstuffworld]

The drying time and the finish, much finer with green putty.

[@timdefreitas1470]

I found that to get a good mold I had to boil the water with the bluestuff in it to get it to a high enough temperature for fine details. a cup of boiled water just didn't cut it. Good results otherwise.

[@greenstuffworld]

The microwave in your kitchen can get that result too ;)

[@Critical677]

You recommend to put the blue stuff and the water in the microwave? really? isn't that dangerous/toxic? For how long and on what setting?

[@TheEpicSpire]

Philip Dahmen Put the bluestuff in a cup of water and then put the water in the microwave for 3 min. Check it every 30 to 45 sec though.

[@VikingFyre]

Got a question regarding blue stuff: can 2 part pourable plastic or resin be poured into these molds? My concern is some of these chemicals when mixed create exothermic reactions and am unsure if that heat will affect the blue stuff.

[@greenstuffworld]

Heat will soft the material so you may loose detail. Maybe the first copy is all right, but the following ones will be worse. You may place the blue stuff molds in the frisge before using it to counteract the heat effect. Anyway, for best results with resins, at least 2 side molds, I would recommend you our Green Silicone putty.

[@VikingFyre]

Green Stuff World Community awesome thank you!

[@DustyTheKitty]

Just got some of this stuff in from your store on Ebay, really looking forward to making copies of some OOP stuff from GW, Mostly GorkaMorka bits like Shotguns and the like, I am wondering though, can I use Greenstuff instead of resin? I've heard It can shrink when it dries but the items I wish to copy are small anyway.

[@greenstuffworld]

+ArmouredLemming If I were you, I would use milliput because it dries hard. Resin is too complicate, althought also possible.

[@jessopjessopjessop860]

Is it possible to use blue stuff as a mold, and Poly morph as the cast? or would they just stick together?

[@greenstuffworld]

I don't quite understand what you mean by Poly morph.

[@jessopjessopjessop860]

@@greenstuffworld sorry, i mean regular old thermoplastic?

[@omega-xis1943]

Are you able to mix paint with the milliput to have a "dyed" plastic?

[@greenstuffworld]

If you wish to change the colour of the milliput, you have 3 options: add color pigments OR ass some drops of acrilyc paint OR add little bit of coloured plasteline. Best option will be using pigments because they won't change properties of the putty.

[@greenstuffworld]

yes, sure. Also pigments in powder.

[@almister]

Can I ask, If I want to mold an entire 28mm mini i sculpted of green stuff but it is detailed and has some delicate bits would it not break when i "apply huge force like a closet or a table to it" when trying to get lots of detail from the mold? I want to duplicate my scratchbuilt bandido gunslinger but worried he will break.

[@greenstuffworld]

The original will no sufer at all since you do not need to apply any "huge force" on that, just do it gently. Regarding the copies, you will have to fill in the smaller parts first, and then the rest. When you apply the huge force the putty is still flexible so it should not break. Place it under a heavy force while flexible and leave it there to cure. It should work. Obviously, results will depend on the difficulty of the original figure. Copies will be very close to original but never 100% the same.

[@almister]

Green Stuff World Videos Oh okay, I see where I was confused there. Thank you for explaining. I should be able to do just a single mold with this product though right?

[@greenstuffworld]

al mac You can make as many molds as you want with the same material. Be generous when making the molds to avoid extra thin molds. You will be able to re-use the material 1.0000000 times.

[@almister]

when you say be generous, does that mean you can combine sticks to make larger molds?

[@greenstuffworld]

al mac Yes, you may combine many sticks to make larger molds. Anyway, I was talking about not making the molds too slim. With a very slim mold, when pressing on, copies could be deformed. Thicker molds will counteract the effect of preasure.

[@MrAshutts]

The issue I'm having when I try to clean the flash on the hardened putty is that the rest of the cast sometimes breaks off. How do you clean it so, well, cleanly?

[@greenstuffworld]

depending on what you want to copy, sometimes milliput is not the solution because although it is a rigid material, it is also brittle in fine pieces.

[@giovannizotti8549]

I have just broken my Finecast model (Morannon Orc Captain with beheaded head and two handed axe) from LoTR (now Middle Earth) range. It happened in the attempt to create the mold. The two sides adhere so strong that it was impossible to separate the two halves without breaking the miniature. My goal was to create new bodies to use with spare arms with shields and swords because in the scenarios the Morannon Captains always have shield and sword, and not that headsman two handed axe. Now I have a precious broken Finecast model (in two different points: the beheaded head kept in hand and the axe handle). I waited before heating and creating the second half of the blue stuff/mold just the time the first part were quite cured. But evidentely it wasn't enough. I'm disappointed. I don't know if with time and more experience one can get better results, but this isn't stuff for a beginner. It's hard to learn how to use it. I'm really disappointed. Then, the whole 8 pieces blister of blue stuff isn't enough to cover an entire 28/30mm miniature (as LOTR ones). I'm really really disappointed.

[@greenstuffworld]

If the 2 parts of the mold adhere too much, just cut them with a hobby knife in the middle to separate them. No need to break the miniature.

[@giovannizotti8549]

@@greenstuffworld it would have been better to have known before the two sides joined so strongly. Another problem I have encountered is that the blue stuff immersed in boiling water releases bluish filaments that have stuck to my plastic bowl which is now also the one to be thrown away and I can no longer use for food.

[@giovannizotti8549]

There is another problem. The pointed parts of the armor broke and remained in the mold, so the original miniature lost further detail. Here there is still no talk of poverty of detail in the copies, this technique ruins your original miniature! (At least: I used GW's FineCast resin). Now what is less painful? Learn to use blue stuff or to proper use a 3D printer with heated bed? I suck in both, so I'm condamned to buy original stuff, because all theese shortcuts costed me more money than 3 stupid orc captains with shields.

[@greenstuffworld]

@@giovannizotti8549 You should always use crystal or metal bowls instead of plastic to boil. All bowls made of plastics tend to deform itself with heat, so those are not recommended at all. I would recommend you to use a crystal standard glass with water and use the microwave with the plastic floating. Using crystal or metal, adding water and heating again should make those filaments release if you have them because it is very rare to get to that. It seems that you have over-boiled or over-heated far too much. You only need like 50ºC to make it soft. 2-3 minutes in the microwave is enough.

[@greenstuffworld]

@@giovannizotti8549 I have personally used these material many times with many types of miniatures from many brands to test and I have never broken anything. On the other hand, maybe original finecast miniature had internal bubbles beneath those areas that you say they have been broken, and therefore they were too weak so after touching them a little bit, got broken. I don't know. I can just assure you that this thermoplastic works.

[@Kwago1]

Has liquid metals been used for this? Gallium seems like it could work, but hot casting metals like Type 160 tin/lead/cadmium/bismuth alloy is what I'd like to know, even just soldering material.

[@greenstuffworld]

No, we haven't used liquid metal. We do not recommend it as it is dangerous and very toxic.

[@greenstuffworld]

50ºC is the maximum temperature you should reach with hot casting. Maybe a little bit more if you put the blue stuff in the fridge before.

[@Kwago1]

That's a bummer, what if I froze it?

[@Kwago1]

Will it explode?

[@greenstuffworld]

simply melt... although you will be able to use blue stuff later in another project

[@KORROSIVE1]

Hello could I use one big piece of blue stuff and mold it around the whole item? I want to duplicate a head sculpt? Or do I need it in two parts?

[@greenstuffworld]

+Corrosive gaming Yes, you may do it like this, but take into account that the key of high detail copies in these type of molds is always the weight/pressure you put after on the mold.

[@KORROSIVE1]

+Green Stuff World Community thank you for the reply, I will be putting the mold underneath my Tv unit over nite I will try your way first :-) thanks again

[@Presbiter]

So which putty should i choose, miliput or magic sculpt? Whats the difference between the two? thanks in advance :)

[@greenstuffworld]

milliput and magic sculpt are quite similar. I would say that Magic sculpt is thinner. Both react in the same way with water. Milliput includes around 120gr, magic sculpt 200gr. I like both the same.

[@Presbiter]

Thanks for the advice, since both are not expensive, I will buy both and try them out to see what fits my needs best.

[@darfiss616]

How long does the blue stuff holds its form? Im planning on doing alot minis with one mold for a huge horde army

[@greenstuffworld]

+Darfiss Brainiac around 3 minutes to get the form.

[@dreadgarr]

could I not use bluestuff to make a mold, and use UV resin to cast?.. D.

[@greenstuffworld]

Of course you can, but keep in mind that the uv resin has an exothermic reaction, so the mold could become unusable once used.

[@KORROSIVE1]

Also how long do you leave the mulliput before you take it out?

[@greenstuffworld]

+Corrosive gaming You may take milliput out the mold after 1 hour. At that time it will still bit fresh and you could rectify or modify some areas that you dont like. Take care not to modify the general shape of the piece you are copying with your fingers, if it is too uncured.

[@KORROSIVE1]

+Green Stuff World Community thank you

[@CraigThomasBoyle]

My problem with blue stuff molds are that whenever I try to make a 2 part mold, the second part on top always sticks to the first mold so I can't get the mold out

[@greenstuffworld]

This is because the heat makes the two moulds stick together, as they are both made of the same material.

[@greenstuffworld]

Place the first part in the freezer before you add the second part.

[@CraigThomasBoyle]

@@greenstuffworld thank you for the advice, I'll try that!

[@XthegreatwhyX]

Can you cast resin in it, instead of using milliput?

[@greenstuffworld]

yes, but only thin pieces which will generate a minor exothermic reaction.

[@samb7088]

What do you use to keep putty from sticking to the blue stuff? I tried Green Stuff but it wanted to stick to it

[@greenstuffworld]

+Sam B (Honeybadger33) Do not worry, green stuff will never get sticked to blue stuff. Just try it!

[@supersoftfloormat]

I just tried making a 2 part mould today with blue stuff and I was unable to separate the 2 parts of the mold. I waited about 2 hours for the first part to cool and solidify. What do you recommend? Should I used some kind of release agent?

[@greenstuffworld]

place the 1st finished part in the fridge just before you put the second part of blue stuff over, it will not blend as it seems it is now

[@supersoftfloormat]

Thanks for the response. I'll give this a shot.

[@incredibleflameboy]

Do you think this method could be used to clone whole sprues or would you recommend individual pieces?

[@greenstuffworld]

I do not recommend to clone whole sprues, it will complicate too much the process. Single pieces no problem.

[@incredibleflameboy]

Green Stuff World Community cool thanks. I think I'll pick up a few packs of blue stuff. It seems very handy

[@8BitJesus]

just found this video, awesome work! Time to make some moulds! :D

[@greenstuffworld]

great ;)

[@hectorflorespauner3404]

hello, I would like to know how do you get quality with milliput, because I have tried about ten times, and always the two parts do not fit very well when and there are holes and fisures between the two parts of the piece, and another issue I have with milliput is that there are always surface cracks and imperfections on the skin. Thanks

[@mastermavrick1818]

Maybe more pressure?

[@TheIcemanModdeler]

This looks incredible, are the pieces as accurate as the ones made with silicone and resin?

[@denialcustoms9813]

I doubt it as the blue stuff mold isn't as accurate as silicone, but for smaller / flatter items this method is certainly the most cost-effective! Also bear in mind it's not recommended to use any sort of liquid resin with blue stuff, as the exothermic reaction during the curing process heats up the blue stuff and ruins the mold! Hence them using Milliput. Happy molding!

[@mikepetrarca5458]

Where can I buy blue stuff

[@greenstuffworld]

www.greenstuffworld.com/en/reusable-blue-stuff/8-blue-stuff-mold-8-bars.html

[@Nintendofan1984]

Could you reuse the blue stuff more than once?

[@greenstuffworld]

yes, sure. Many times. Make sure you dont leave rest of putty or resins stuck to the material and it will last a lot.

[@danas986]

Hi, thank you for this video! I want to try this making a cosplay that needs a bear claw necklace, so it'd be perfect for having a mold for the claws (they're around 6cm long, 12mm thick). I was wondering though, is the milliput sturdy enough? It seems like it could easily break in half just with my hands. I don't have any experience with molding or making this stuff, so I'm sorry for my stupid question.

[@greenstuffworld]

+Dana S No problem. It would be perfect.

[@haiduc5320]

How it went

[@melpomyne]

is the thermoplaster safe with finecast models?

[@greenstuffworld]

yes, no problem at all

[@IvanAgram]

Have you tried epoxy resin instead of putty?

[@greenstuffworld]

Putty = epoxy resin Do you mean liquid resins?

[@madsbergholm2328]

Green Stuff World Videos is it posible to use liquid resin?

[@greenstuffworld]

Yes, it is. If the temperatur of resin increases when curing, put the plastic first in the fridge to counteract the effect of the heat, Regards, Israel

[@madsbergholm2328]

that is nice to know. thanks!

[@Kwago1]

How about liquid metals?

[@David-rn6hl]

Cuanto tiempo tarda en secar o endurecer la masilla?

[@greenstuffworld]

milliput? unos 90 minutos

[@David-rn6hl]

y la masilla verde?? me dijeron que la diferencia de cantidad de colores entre el amarillo y el azul le dan un efecto distinto a la masilla verde eso es cierto??

[@greenstuffworld]

La masilla verde es bicomponente por lo que tiene dos componentes: uno es el endurecedor (azul) y otro es la masilla en si (amarillo). El tiempo que tarda en secarse depende de la cantidad que apliques de cada componente. Mas azul : tarda menos y la mezcla será mas dura cuando haya secado Mas amarillo : tarda mas y la mezcla será mas flexible cuando haya secado

[@ericlarrondo217]

Can you use liquid resin with the molds?

[@greenstuffworld]

Yes, but mold lifetime of them will be reduce. Copies are better with putties such as milliput or magic sculpt

[@frankreynolds6831]

Hows this compare to thermomorph?

[@greenstuffworld]

Thermomorph melts with hot water and allow you to form simple pieces, but all of them always will be as hard as a piece of rock. Thermomorph will never be good for making flexible molds, which is the main use of blue stuff.

[@frankreynolds6831]

Thank you for the response. I was shopping around and saw this Thermomorph as a suggest item. Ill be ordering some blue stuff today!

[@KORROSIVE1]

Do you think mulliput is better than green stuff? I've found when I use green stuff it is more rubbery and bendy, do you get that with mulliput? I havnt tried it yet

[@greenstuffworld]

+Corrosive gaming You may use both, but GS when dried is bit flexible and milliput is not. This is a question of tastes. I personally prefer milliput for clonning. You may also use the blending property of mi lliput to correct defects.

[@KORROSIVE1]

+Green Stuff World Community brilliant thank you :-)

[@adampoultney8737]

The link dosen't work...

[@adampoultney8737]

Well, I'll be needing some!

[@greenstuffworld]

www.greenstuffworld.com/en/reusable-blue-stuff/8-blue-stuff-mold-8-bars.html

[@santoshadi8563]

where did you buy this blue stuff thing ?

[@greenstuffworld]

www.greenstuffworld.com

[@leonadis1047]

My miliput is always breaking apart when i put it in the mold what can i do?

[@greenstuffworld]

depending on what you want to copy, sometimes milliput is not the solution because although it is a rigid material, it is also brittle in fine pieces.

[@leonadis1047]

@@greenstuffworld i'm molding small warhammer 40k bits. Which material would be best?

[@TheEpicSpire]

What makes this stuff better than polymorph?

[@greenstuffworld]

nothing to do at all. polymorph is super hard when at normal temperature. Blue stuff is totally flexible to help unmolding.

[@TheEpicSpire]

Green Stuff World Community Ok, so it'd be easier to remove hard casts from bluestuff then. Thanks

[@josedejesusmartinezenrique6195]

Hi, i can use moldable foam whit It ?? I want to ise moldable foam to make a flying 1/72 airplane

[@greenstuffworld]

I don't really know what you mean with "moldable foam"

[@josedejesusmartinezenrique6195]

Green Stuff World kzbin.info/www/bejne/aWLdZp1unpKDl6M its foam but flexible as a Clay, once dry is the same as regular foam

[@josedejesusmartinezenrique6195]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/ZoLakpWZgLqHq6s to make an rc airplane, something like this

[@bramkoek7262]

What is the song?

[@greenstuffworld]

I don't remenber, it is just a free song

[@JollyJoel]

What I want to copy is fragile (very thin parts) and expensive. Not sure if I should do this.

[@greenstuffworld]

I don't know, this material is quite soft when hot, so it may work to make the mold. Another question is what material you should use to fill the mold for something extremely thin.

[@JollyJoel]

hey, good question... I guess plaster of paris isn't a good idea O.o Too bad I can't temporarily liquefy Green Stuff, just gonna get that stuff dentists use to make teeth castings as Bruce Hirst recommends.

[@kalbarry10]

Could you do a Forgeworld model?

[@greenstuffworld]

You could reproduce any model, it is a question of practice

[@manoloaguirre7159]

Great video, except for the fact it absolutely skips the part about putting the putty in, which is not exactly obvious. Maybe it was covered in part I??

[@VikingFyre]

Some time ago you guys had posted on facebook that resin can be used with the blue stuff, but it was never elaborated as to what kind should be used. My concern is that resin often has an exothermic reaction which could heat up the thermoplastic and warp the mold. Recommendations?

[@greenstuffworld]

You can use resin with blue stuff, but only with thin pieces. If the resin piece is too thick, the thermal reaction will be too high and blue stuff may get stucked to the resin. You could put the mold in the fridge before using it for better performances.

[@IaijutsuRonin]

The ancient Version of a 3d Printer

[@almostthere2516]

Is it icky to touch it? Looks like the guy here is highly bothered by touching it!

[@scarfaces132]

Ok thanks for showing and already done mould before showing us how much putty to put in the mold

[@greenstuffworld]

The amount of putty depends on what you wanna do, but as a general rule, just fill in the mold. If you put too much putty, you will have to trim it later. We recommend to start filling the smaller/more difficult parts of the piece, and then the rest.

[@battlereporter2956]

So you are duplicating games workshop Daemon Prince legs and back to make two modells out of one package? Aos and 40K?

[@greenstuffworld]

This is an example showing how to duplicate a complex miniature for yourself. In general you should be able to duplicate almost anything.

[@BarringtonDailey]

You MISS key steps. At no point do you show us pouring into the mold or WHAT you use? Just magically show us the finished item, and then pointless 5 mins of you cutting of flash and holding up the finished piece.

[@greenstuffworld]

it is explained in the other videos how we fill up the mold with milliput

[@WarsmithThanatos]

Like would be nice. My come out as shit.

[@greenstuffworld]

We used Milliput putty to fill in the mold. It is in the video all the time.

[@greenstuffworld]

You may need to repeat the mould to get more detail. Try also to fill in first the difficult areas, and then the rest of the piece. It is very important the pressure to hold the 2 side molds in place.