Squeeky Clutch Pedal in your Fiat 500 1.2? LIkely culprit in this video. Love 500 How to Series.

[@Litesnip2022]

From experience ive found that the noise comes from the 2 rubber bushes that the fork sits in. 1 inside the gear box and one at the top where you greased. I used some 3in1 oil in a syringe around the top bush and it will work its way down the fork and lubricate the bottom bush. Keep pressing the clutch to work it in. 👍

[@GS_riders1250]

That’s my plan this weekend 😂 really not in the mood for taking the gearbox out of the car again - plus it’s too cold for messing about. Thanks for the tip 😎

[@zakkhan9911]

Hi can you kindly explain what you mean I have the issue

[@Kaz-c4m]

Hi can you kindly explain how u put the oil

[@keithappleyard1915]

Just done the wifes 12 plate, in this case it was the pedal under the dash. It was squeaky and a little notchy on the slow upward movement on take off. Sprayed everything that moved inc. the spring, with Gt85 with PTFE. Worked the pedal didn't disappear straight off but next day, no squeak and smooth as silk. So that's another one to look out for. Just to add I made a cardboard tray out of an old box to catch the drips, left it in overnight.

[@paulb9630]

Thanks again Paul for an amazing video with detailed explanation, I managed to put grease in all the places you did plus I removed the slave bolts so I could grease the end of the piston , no squeak at all now 👍🏼👍🏼 😅

[@neilhopwood8581]

9:18 As a quick fix for anyone who is struggling to source a slave cylinder, the rubber gaiter on the slave cylinder can be popped of with a screwdriver and you can squeeze some silicone grease into the recess. This worked as a temporary measure on a Ford Ka mk2 which shares the same running gear as the 500. I also did the same to the master cylinder above the clutch pedal and it's now much easier to press, and the squeak and the notchy return has gone.

[@Love500]

It’s been impossible to buy them recently but I managed to find the last three on a website and bought them all.

[@pete9501]

Thankyou, tomorrows job on my Ka.

[@sherbsville]

thankyou so much! I have no idea atall about cars, so needed ALL this info. Excellent vid, ty. 😊

[@Love500]

@@sherbsville my pleasure, glad it helped.

[@stepheng8779]

A few years ago I kept getting the grease out in the exact way you showed but it was only ever a temporary fix, any lengthy period of dry weather always saw the squeak return. Ended up replacing the cylinder which I should've just done in the first place.

[@jeffcartwright7270]

One end of that steel rod that runs from the inside of clutch slave cylinder. The other end of the rod sit's inside a "cup" that is depressed into the steel, clutch release arm. The ball on the end of the rod, sit's in the cup and is in "metal to metal" foul condition. That metal to metal contact point is your squeek !. There is likely to be scoring / rust and crud built up over a long time. I think that was the only lub point you missed Paul. Unbolt the slave cylinder and clean the end of the slave cylinder rod and the "cup" that accepts the piston rod. Apply your grease to cup and the end of the slave cylinder rod and refit the slave cylinder - sorted !. A quick proof of concept before you start, a good spray spray of WD40 at the point where the rod engages with the cup in the release arm. It will give you an instant result, but the noise will return, as WD40 is not long term lubricant. My wife has a Fiat 500 and the clutch made a strange noise when it was depressed first thing in the morning. But the noise was coming from inside of the car. The push rod on the master cylinder ( behind the pedal ) has a rubber boot that drags along a similar metal push rod. Red rubber grease applied to the push rod, sorted the problem in her car, that was about two years ago.

[@Love500]

It definitely wasn’t in the cup as you could feel it in the shaft when holding it while the clutch was depressed. I’ll definitely check that in future though.

[@jeffcartwright7270]

@@Love500 Of course you could !. The direct metal to metal contact travels from the point of contact at the clutch arm, via the connecting rod into the slave cylinder, that notching / staggered feeling is what you are experiencing through your fingers. What the hell do I know anyway, as a time served tech trying to offer some requested help. In your video on project Cerys, I did attempt to point out that the N/S/F front strut on that car was actually bent, ( as also witnessed by other subs ) on the first inspection video, again this is why you struggled ( your words ) to align the bolts on that bent bottom arm replacement you carried out. Quote Paul :- "This was the hardest bottom arm I have ever done, I really really struggled to get the bolts back in and I don't know why ?". That was the cue !. The damage to that strut was caused because of that heavy impact received by the road wheel in the crash,. It had pushed the N/S/F wheel SO far back, the tyre had clearly rubbed on the inner wheel arch and left that clean witness mark. A lot of force was required to first bend the bottom arm and also the strut in turn, had to travel the same distance. Again - also pointed out in the comments section. Suddenly you changed your mind and did decide to replace the strut on the second video strangely ?. I do really enjoy the channel and the content Paul, and I am NOT just viewing with the intention to pick holes in what you do, very far from it !. But I will be reframing from responding to the regular request for :- "Please reply with any help / opinions in the comments section below folks" in the future 👍.

[@Love500]

@@jeffcartwright7270 that’s your choice Jeff. I take on board what everyone says and suggests. If you want to quote me exactly I said right at the beginning that I would change the bottom arm first and see what happens. It was clearly not the only issue so I changed the shock. Yes, you pointed it out and people have seen things watching the videos that I haven’t spotted at the time, this happens regularly. On this occasion it wasn’t the cup as you suggested it might be, but as I said before I will check that in future.on this occasion the cylinder was knackered and has now been replaced.

[@straightup1234]

Hi my wifes car got same squeak , just got the car thanks for this video, will i need a radio code if battery removed ?

[@Love500]

@@straightup1234 no, code is only needed if it’s put into another car.

[@straightup1234]

@Love500 thanks for reply 👍

[@deanwarner2006]

Done a few of these, always the slave cylinder, bushes wear

[@paulmaclachlan6960]

top tip Paul ,rub the the corosion down with 150 wet and dry but rub dry ,take yout time and keep wiping with a cloth to remove rust and grime , comes up smooth ,pack with grease ,good as new and no squeek :)

[@Love500]

I'll try that next time, cheers.

[@paulmaclachlan6960]

forgot to tell you ,get someone to press the clutch pedal while you do this ,then you get it all @@Love500

[@dazznutts]

On my TwinAir wasn't so much of a squeeky clutch pedal was sticking initially did the spray wd40/grease but has ended up chaining the cynlinder - maybe better changing when taking off battery/tray etc as the slave cynlinder cost is arond £25-£35 dependant on make - but as paul says if you dont know how to do it yourself or have a good quality mechanic who isnt going to rip you off this is a good starting point

[@TiggerzSRi]

Hi mate, got my step daughters 2012 fiat 500 in Kent, and it’s got a weird clutch problem that I’d appreciate your advise on if there is a way to message you?

[@Love500]

You can email me. Address in description of every video

[@TiggerzSRi]

@@Love500 thanks mate

[@finleyplympton]

My Suzuki Celerio 2016 with 19k miles does exactly the same , could it be the same issue? I might even buy a 22 reg 500c soon , anything to look out for on a Facelift 500?

[@Love500]

Probably the same thing. Not aware of anything new that’s an issue apart from the regular things.

[@nsyi]

Great job! Did you have the part number?

[@Love500]

I don’t I’m afraid bug if you go onto eBay or a parts website and enter Fiat 500 slave cylinder it’ll come up.

[@PavlinTerziev]

Hi the part which Paul used was LuK clutch slave cylinder part number 512 0045 10. You can see this from label on the box when Paul left the box ot top of the engine. But this is cylinder and pipe too. It is cheaper to buy just the cylinder in case no need to replace the pipe too. 😊 I have the same issue but need just to remove battery and check. Hopefully will do this soon. Thank you Paul for this video.

[@tigermoth3194]

Old/dirty clutch fluid in the system can often cause brakes and clutches to squeak when operated. Brake and clutch fluid is hygroscopic - meaning it 'absorbs water' and this can make the rubber seals squeak. Its worth changing the fluid first before changing any parts.

[@Love500]

It’s a common fault with these. Always those damn spaces but I get your point.

[@Kaz-c4m]

Hi I have the same issue where can I purchase this part from

[@Love500]

They are difficult to get hold of now. I always buy three when available. All of the usual online part suppliers are out of stock.

[@s23bho38]

No. Mrs drives a triptonic auto! 🤣

[@Love500]

Dualogic?

[@seanbartlett6148]

Change the whole dam thing cos that joint will fail and rott through .. they all do .. and your need both the master and slave kit as they come pre bled with the joiner for both sides .. I change these all the time due to failed joints and leaked and pedal dropped .. just change the whole dam thing ...

[@Love500]

They don’t fail if you use a copper micro bore plumbing fitting.

[@seanbartlett6148]

@@Love500 when they are shitted right up they internally due to water ingres rott in the slave and master .. as a mechanic warranting work I replace it entirely properly .. not Mickey Mouse repair it and then Have the other components fail .. if ya doing the slave anyway and buying the front part due to noises just do it all ... I’ve had a couple masters rott internally also .. give a years warranty on the entire system 👍🏻

[@Love500]

@@seanbartlett6148 obviously a garage would just replace and charge for complete renewal but if there’s nothing wrong with the master then I wouldn’t replace the entire thing.

[@seanbartlett6148]

@@Love500 heads up for ya .. gsf are doing 45% discount onnline at mo on that entire outfit 👍🏻👍🏻 worth knowing

[@Love500]

@@seanbartlett6148 I’ll have a look, cheers.

[@GS_riders1250]

Ours is the clutch release fork 🤬

[@Love500]

See Chris’s comment above. Seems like a top tip.