Triple-T Thursday #14 - Forge Completed!

In this Triple-T Thursday (Tools, Tips and Talk) I review some new projects and demo the completed forge.
Links to parts:
Insulated Firebrick (12): amzn.to/3o5EZ6I
Mizzou Refractory (10 lbs): amzn.to/3pCQBhW
Sealcoat HT Caulking: amzn.to/3poDTDB
1 1/4" Gate Valve: amzn.to/3hiV5HO
1/4" Pressure Gauge: amzn.to/3pvmicW
1/4" Ball Valve: amzn.to/2M89evP
1/4" Needle Valve: amzn.to/3hne18d
Dayton Blower: amzn.to/2KZXPhf
Pulley Block: amzn.to/3rHkn7k
100 lbs propane tank: amzn.to/3hnqhFK
Propane adapter: amzn.to/34OM6Jf
Tyrell Knifeworks Instagram: / tyrellknifeworks
Tyrell Knifeworks Etsy Store: www.etsy.com/shop/TyrellKnife...

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

I'm really pleased with the new forge! The only thing I might have changed is using thicker steel on the front around the opening. I think the 14 gauge is going to deteriorate faster than I'd like. I guess I'll replace it when I need to. Anything else you'd change?

[@HoutmeyersP]

Nice result....seems a forge build to last a very long time. The mentioning of how much gas pressure is actually meaningless to other builders if they want to make a simular forge. If you do not mention the size of the orifice where you pump the gas trough . Lets say i have a orifice 1/25 " in diameter and i put my gas pressure at 4 psi....i will not be able to pump the same amount gas in if i only use a 1/32 " orifice at the same gas pressure. Its the same with a needle valve....if you dont mention the exact hole in that valve you could get a different result using another brand needle valve. The volume of gas will be less or more so the result will also be different. If you however mention the inner size volume of the forge , the diameter of the orifice(or valve) used , the gaspressure and the ventilator you used....then they can copy that and get about a simular result. I also had a problem with the bulging of the front plate.....i just made the hole bigger so the exhaust flame could not contact the plate directly.

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

@@HoutmeyersP Really good points! The orifice that gas is flowing out of is 3/16". The pressure at the regulator is releasing about 3PSI and the needle valve is about 1/3 to 1/4 the way closed, depending on if I'm forge welding / heating up or just doing regular forging. So I'm just assuming that the pressure is around 1PSI or a little less. For reference, the inner size is 7" (.58') x 4.5" (.37') x 18" (1.5') or 567 cu/In (.32 cu/ft). All the valves used are in the description of the video. I do need to make that hole in the steel a little bigger so the flames aren't as close.

[@HoutmeyersP]

@@TyrellKnifeworks A friend of mine has cut the insulating bricks in a way that they partially protude the front metal plate about 1/2 " so only very minor heat can get at those plates. Some heat resistand paint makes a self build forge look even more professional :) It also covered the bad weldingjob i did on my forge ;) . The plug at the back does not always contain the heat better or make the forge heat up quicker. If you have a long shafted thermocouple and a device to read the inside temperature it could very well be that the forge heats up faster with the hole at the back wide open than with the plug inserted.....no explanation other than that the forge sucks in even more oxigen giving it a better burn.(dont really know). It was a difference of about 100°f extra in about 30 seconds....after that the temperature leveled out and was stable . It could be different on yours depending on shape and volume. If you have acces at a temperature metering device you could do some testing on what setting gives you the maximum amount of heat . Propane is a high enough cost in forging.

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

@@HoutmeyersP I'm probably just going to cut the hole bigger in the front so the 14 gauge steel is further away from the heat. I'm not worried about the shelf since its 1/4". I'm not so convinced on the plug in the back though. Worth some investigation for sure. It definitely will get a coat of high heat paint... still on the list of to-do's! Thanks for you input!

[@davepage5875]

Nice build. If you move your gate valve to the top of that galvanized nipple you won’t have to bend down and you’ll be able to tune the gas at the needle valve and the air at the gate valve at the same time.

[@HeavyForge]

Aw the beauty of forced air! Nice forge Denis!!Hook it up to 2 100lb tanks and you’re trips to the gas station are greatly reduced. Ribbon burner is definitely in my future but I’m gonna build a furnace this summer while working so I can start making crucible steel. Looking forward to you’re upcoming projects!☕️🔥⚒💪🏻

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

Luckily the place I get propane is 5 mins from my house so I think I’ll stick with the single 100lb tank. I’m intrigued by the crucible steel project! I want to see that! Stay warm up there! 👍

[@theriversexperience9383]

Man that forge turned out awesome. I really like how modular it is. Being able to change out parts is the way to go.

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

Thanks Erick! I’m really pleased with it. I did some forge welding with it last night. No problem at all! 👍

[@dapeters19751]

Yes sir, that's an awesome forge. Good job on the new forge

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

Thanks, it’s a bit big though and takes a bit to heat up. Probably gonna make a new one soon. 😜

[@evaderknives]

Nice build!!! Can't wait to see this bad boy in action. Hope all is well, take it easy.

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

Thanks Dave! I was using it to forge weld some Damascus last night! 😜

[@sudo_nym]

Nothing says “I’m in business” more than a roaring forge! 🇬🇧👍🏻👍🏻

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

I did my first Damascus forge welding session last night. Works like a charm! 👍

[@pbcrisp4373]

I'm planning a forge build for my son. Lots of research on it. Your ribbon burner build and forge build videos are very informative. With such an efficient flame, you might not get much metal deterioration on the front. I'm considering using hard fire brick for the front face instead of sheet metal.

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

Once I got it up to forge welding temps last night there were a bit of flames out the front but nothing like a Venturi. Hard fire bricks on the front would work well. 👍

[@battlefieldforge1]

Congratulations on making the Feburary 2022 issue of blade magazine.

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

Thanks Billy! I still haven’t seen the issue yet. I’m waiting for mine to arrive.

[@eetukuru787]

Oh wow, the forge turned out great! I guess I gotta start figuring out how to get the materials for one here in Finland. At least the refractory is problematic to get. Have you thought about switching to fluxless welding now that you have greater control over the air in the forge?

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

I have mixed feelings on the whole fluxless forge welding. Mostly because some people think it’s some badge of honor to do it. I’ve done forge welding without flux. Personally I like flux. I like that it takes all the scale off the billet. I like being able to use a fine bristle brush and have a super clean billet. After I’m done setting the welds then no need for it. It’s a tool and there’s time to use it just like any other tool. I’ve never seen any negative effects from flux like other say (because I don’t abuse it) except for what it does to your forge, which I’ve combated now, so I will keep using it. Just my opinion of course. 👍

[@nevermore1045]

Yep that settles it for me that is the next route I'll be going on my next forge build. Thanks for showing your build work! Will you be integrating a auto shut off safety solenoid for electric failure? Interested in the wakisashi build upcoming. That was my first attempt and havent revisited since its still 1/4 forged at this point.

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

Yeah, I’ll get the shutoff solenoid at sone point. The wakazashi should be interesting! Thanks for watching!

[@Onlydads5]

Nicely done! Unfortunately steel on the front is always going to deteriorate over time no matter what the thickness. I've had decent results with just doing a coating of refractory on the front to keep the fire from directly hitting the steel.

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

Yeah, I figure that is the case. I'm not so worried about it.

[@anddysworkshop466]

It would be really interesting to see an attempt to "rainbow" damascus too! :))

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

Haha, I don’t even know what that would be! Maybe copper, brass, nickel, steel-Damascus all put together. 🤔 Maybe sometime in the future!

[@Anderson-HandForged]

awesome forge ive been wanting to build me a ribbon burner forge myself now im definitly doing one this summer did you make your own ribbon burner or buy it? thanks

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

I made the ribbon burner.. they are quite easy to make. Easier than a venturi burner for sure. It's a 3" square tube with one side cut out, ends welded on and then a hole cut in one side with a coupling welded on it. Watch my other videos on hit and you'll see. Thanks for watching!

[@anthonystrunk5360]

Had to make yours look better than mine.. I see how it is..lol.. nice forge!

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

😜 It doesn’t need to be pretty, just functional. Pretty is a nice-to-have. Lol!

[@bradymcphail9690]

Denis, did you bring that steel up to heat at 1/2 psi? That’s amazing at 5-6 psi I think!

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

I brought the forge up to temp using about 2-3 psi. I can do normal forging between 1/2 - 1 psi. Forge welding around 2 psi. 👍😁

[@jonesn3863]

That should save on the gas bill good luck on the mini sword

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

Thanks Jones! It should be a fun but complicated build.

[@ClenioBuilder]

❤

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

Thanks for watching!

[@timjackson5555]

Dang I run 15-17 lbs na, was going to make a ribbon burner for the forge I just built 5x5" x 23" internal.. too small for what I do. Wanting to go 40" ish with natural gas but the parts are gunna be pricey. For professional burner & blower combined.

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

Mine is 7”x5” x18” and the ribbon burner is 3x8. You could do two of those in a 40” or even 2 3x10” burners no problem. I would totally build them instead of buying. They are so easy to make for a fraction of what people are charging. It’s $10 in steel, $4 for the couplings and the mizzou is cheap. I bet you could build the burner/blower setup for $200.

[@christopherconkright1317]

I know you answered me and i got a 75$ pre built forge and it blows thru propane and the price is up to almost 5$ So thought I would build a forge that was thicker and more efficient. Do you just use a regulator at the tank? I see so many say have two regulators, Needle valve no needle valve etc etc. I have mirrored items i see for sale for crazy prices that are 25$ to build. I wasn't sure if i should get two regulators to be sure its low pressure but 2 psi is low pressure so seems dumb to me. A solenoid might be smart if power goes out or fan fails etc etc. I was going to bend steel for the shell but what thickness is the least i can use. I have a 0-30 psi regulator with gauge at the tank about 10 foot from the forge behind my shed I do have a shut off inside near the forge

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

I wouldn't use two regulators.. that seems silly. Are you planning two venturi burners? If so you'll definitely need the 30 psi regulator. I would just plumb a single hose from the reg and then split that into two. If you want a shutoff for each, then add that right before it connects to the burner. For venturi burners I wouldn't bother with the needle valve and control both with the reg. If you're using forced air, then why two burners? Go with a longer ribbon burner and you don't need to split it. Unless you plan a forge longer than 18". Sounds like you are considering forced air if you are thinking solenoid. I just don't ever leave my forging area when the forge is on so I'm not worried about the solenoid.

[@johnjude2685]

No propane shut off valve? I was advised if electric fails or blower mower fails shutdown the gas so I don't blow-up or burn down my Forge. Only $20 investment Love your brick setup Thanks

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

This is actually my old forge. Watch the more recent one. On the gas solenoid, it only protects you from a power failure, not if your blower dies. Your blower will typically still get power so the solenoid will still function. Just font leave the room with the forge on. My new one had one, but that’s more for future planning for the PID controller. Thanks for watching.

[@johnjude2685]

I was recently told I need a intercombustion flame arrestor someone said about $ 60.00 and I should check out this more we don't like losing our Forge or being hurt thanks I'll find the resent build

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

@@johnjude2685 I have never heard of a flame arrestor on a forge. That’s something you see on an oxy welder but not a forge. You’d want a solenoid. Check my new video: How to build a ribbon burner forge kzbin.info/www/bejne/rn2bqJR6p6yJors

[@gearheadd2]

Hello. On your gas intake thats pass the needle value what did you end up doing with that? Thanks

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

I removed the mig tip and it’s just a 3/16 hole to supply gas to the system. The needle valve controls the amount. I usually have the regulator pressure at around 3 psi and further constrict it with the needle valve. Does that help? Thanks for watching, Jim.

[@gearheadd2]

@@TyrellKnifeworks Yes thank you

[@christopherconkright1317]

Why straight down for the burner orientation doesn’t it blowing on your Damascus make it scale more?

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

No not really if you have good control of the air vs fuel mixture. When I’m forge welding I make sure it’s a fuel rich environment so there’s less oxidation. That’s a downfall of these Frosty-T burners or other Venturi burners that folks are using, there’s much less control. With a forced air burner you have the best control. That’s just about all experienced smiths have moved to forced air. I also can put the billet to the side and not directly under the burner if I’m concerned about it. I hope that helps. 👍

[@christopherconkright1317]

@@TyrellKnifeworks thanks I am just starting out and was going to buy a premade forge for 200$ is that a bad ideal or should I build one from scratch and do forced air? I’d prebuilt okay to start?

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

@@christopherconkright1317 If you're just starting out, I think these low end forges are the way to go. If you find you want to get more serious, in a year or so instead of relining this forge, just make one that meets your needs. It's hard to beat some of these forges that are going for $150 these days just as an entry level one. 👍🏻

[@christopherconkright1317]

@@TyrellKnifeworks thanks for the reply. I’ve asked this to a few people your the first to reply. That helps a lot for me to make a decision.

[@Anderson-HandForged]

hey denis wanted to ask what size mig tip works the best on your ribbon burner ?thanks i want ta ad doors to my ribbon burner forge what size rod is that you used on your doors thanks Mark

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

Don't use a mig tip, it won't provide enough gas flow (you'll see later I removed it in my build). Just use a 3/16 hole only. The round stock I used is 5/8" which matches the pulleys that I provided the link to. 👍🏻

[@Anderson-HandForged]

@@TyrellKnifeworks thanks very much denis appreciate it

[@whynot-ts9rf]

Hello, I made a ribbon burner forge, but is it too oxidizing for steel, is it normal or am I making a mistake?

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

When you say “oxidic” you mean it’s oxidizing your steel too much? If so that means you are running too much air and not enough gas. Try changing that. Do you have some kind of baffle or gate valve for your blower?

[@whynot-ts9rf]

@@TyrellKnifeworks yes I have, thanks for advice.

[@maziar1401]

بی نقص 👍

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

این فورج قدیمی بود... جدید بسیار بهتر است.