ugh still junk

[@crazyfeller5704]

👍👍 did you run the codes? My wife had an avenger this year and they could be obd scanned or with the check engine light- 3 cycles to run and off and leave it in run. You can check the O2 sensors with a meter before shelling out $$$- should be floating between and .1 to 1 volt on the sensor wire. If no voltage or over 1 volt- you found a problem. That’s not solid evidence, but it’s something to work with. I find these get changed more than they need to with the parts cannon. The computer will give a lean or rich code if those are the problem normally, or outright advise the sensor(s) are bad. In my limited experience with my wife’s POS, If it didn’t show up on codes- changing the part didn’t fix the problem, as with other makes. Typically it was mechanical in nature. Really seems like that additional tank they added, botched up some wires (corrosion) and probably a wire gremlin - but that is pure speculation.

[@tylerheard1279]

That sensor in the manifold is most likely intake air temperature sensor.

[@chrismuncey3861]

Well it is a Dodge lol it may be a ecm coolant temperature sensor. A lot of 80s 90s trucks have one for the computer and another for the gauge. If the computer won his bad, it can show a false signal for really high or low temperature. Causing it to go lean or rich.

[@tylerheard1279]

I would check the fuel pump relay. I had a car that when hot the relay would "cut out" and the engine would die. Let it cool a sec and it'd fire back up.

[@oldcodger1929]

I had a 91 dodge that did the same thing it ended up a bad wire to the pump it would work some times and not others I ran a new wire it fixed it.

[@russmontiethii863]

Do the headlights work? Ik that generation trick had electrical issues with the headlight switches causing power supply problems. Did you check voltage whilst Engine running at the fuel pump? Good luck hopefully get it figured out

[@Houseworksaws]

Coolant temp sensor they make things run like trash when they act up.

[@Super-Dave-Outdoors]

It is still a motor so it needs air, fuel, and spark. Looks like a cable operated throttle body so air is good. Next i would bypass pump wiring and run it straight to the battery as a diagnostic procedure (eliminate any wiring issue or CPU fuel cut as a culprit.) After that all that would be left is the ignition and computer to jive together. Isolate the offending system and then start throwing parts.

[@aldredske6197]

Hi Charlie!!😀😀 Is your ECM or PCM Bad??

[@tedneitzel]

My girlfriends Dodge with similar issues i hsd to change the computer. Its been good for years now!

[@CharlesBrisco]

It's had the computer changed an tins more too

[@AndyAlaska375]

Have you scanned the ecm for any fault codes? Faulty oxygen sensors were fairly common and known to cause the issue your describing. That stuff frustates me too. Youll get it fixed Charles. 👍