La Sportiva No-Edge Climbing Shoe Review

[@caressdisstatepark677]

I work for LaSpo and wear futuras a lot a lot, quite literally everything you guys said is accurate from pros and cons (namely those in my mind are the front being too fat for narrow/small pockets, and mega thin edging to the point where you basically need a shoe with a brand new sharp edge), to correct sizing (I wear futuras 3.5 euro sizes down from street size). The only additional info I’ll add to your already very comprehensive summary is that the mandalas are on the pd85 last and the futuras are on pd75, which in turn means that the mandalas are a little bit more laterally asymmetric. Additionally, they stretch a lot due to them being constructed internally with unlined leather, so keep that in mind when sizing. Finally it seems that no edge shoes in general last a lot longer than their conventionally edged counterparts with the same outsole rubber thickness before needing a resole, it would appear to be due to the fact that wear is more evenly spread across a greater area and that there is no weak (unsupported) edge to quickly wear away.

[@Jason-sp5yc]

The resole benefits are what attracted me to the no-edge line. So far, its seeming like its true, I'm expecting to get a lot more time between resoles with these.

[@annmut5038]

Very interesting video, thanks for putting in the work!

[@Stoitism]

As someone who's footwork is his biggest downfall, a shoe which lets you "just stuff your foot onto something" sounds quite appealing ngl 😅

[@AndrewSteavpack]

It is true, you do get really good feel which might help you learn better footwork over time

[@tomriddle2257]

For me the Mandala is the best indoor bouldering shoe for people who need a bit more toe support (taller or heavier people).

[@davidswaine7340]

I've used the Mandala.The Mandala felt great as a smearing show on sandstone in the red river gorge this spring but didn't feel aggressive enough to grab holds in the way that older models of the no edge family could (eg speedsters and MK1 futura)

[@ukclimbingofficial]

I think that's where the pros and cons of each kick in. I really liked the Mandala because it was a bit more supportive, but the downside of that is that it's a bit stiffer. If you're looking or something that's more aggressive and grabby then something softer like the Futura (or Mantra) would be much better.

[@jonsmith2240]

I had an original pair of futara's, thought they were great. Especially good on "smedging" on gritstone.

[@ukclimbingofficial]

We fully approve of the use of the term "smedging", although we're still a little confused my what Tim meant when he said "smidging" 😂

[@lacattano]

I have the Mandalas, love the heel and toe box but I have the strap fully done up but their is still a slight gap. They don't come off or feel loose in heel hooks though. I think because the heel finishes quite high. They look a bit odd on low volume feet but I'd still recommend them.

[@ukclimbingofficial]

I wonder if the Futura would be a better fit for you, although it sounds like you’ve managed to make them work

[@lacattano]

@@ukclimbingofficial yeah you might be right, I tried the Mantra and the heel was too small. Didn't try the Futura, maybe next time!

[@LongPham-ss2rm]

Hi! this is a very helpful video! I just wonder if these shoes are suitable for an intermediate climber (v5)? I just started climbing around 1 month ago, so I don't really know too much about what is suitable for me. Thanks!

[@ukclimbingofficial]

There’s no reason why not, plus if you are looking to move up the grades they’d go sour you - as opposed to hold you back. The thing to get right is the fit. If they fit, great; if they don’t, try on as many other models as you can. Go with what feels nicest on your foot.

[@Secarlen]

I wonder how durability the no edge is in comparison to LaSpo Theory

[@ukclimbingofficial]

This is something we should have touched on, as they're definitely more durable than a shoe with an edge, partly because there's no edge to wear. As a result of this they wear much more evenly, as opposed to on the edge itself, which tends to degrade quite significantly over time.

[@rustcohle3088]

I wonder if its so good in modern comp style indor bouldering wouldn't it be used in big tournaments and Olympics? Im not sure if i seen someone used no edge in olympics for example (might be wrong).

[@Jackwithoneeye]

I think Ai Mori usually climbs in futuras ?

[@ukclimbingofficial]

This is a valid point, because you're right - not many do; however, I don't think this video was ever intended as advice for the pros. Our approach has always been to offer relatable advice to everyone from beginners, intermediate and advanced climbers, but for the likes of top end, world-class competition climbers - they're operating at a very different level within an extremely specialist environment.

[@Baum17]

​@@ukclimbingofficialI would argue that shoes with the "no edge technology" are very much specialized shoes for a specific purpose rather than all-round climbing shoes for beginner or even intermediate climbers. The idea that indoor climbing is all about smearing on big volumes is from my experience just not true. Especially beginner and intermediate climbers will find it very difficult to stand on smaller footholds with shoes lacking an edge or even in softer climbing shoes in general.

[@scottwangkl8882]

I had the same thought. But I think part of it is also that once they have found a shoe that works well enough for them in terms of the trifecta of comfort, performance, and sponsorships, they tend to stick to the same shoe. I've hardly seen climbers change their main shoes aside from Chon Jongwon (LaSport to Scarpa). Others typically switch shoes depending on the climb but they always stick to one main shoe.

[@marcosjuan3142]

It's excellent

[@raartsen]

Is it possible to have these resoled?

[@AMM1998]

yes but no edge rubber needs to be used

[@ukclimbingofficial]

As per the other comment, they can indeed but you’re best going to an official La Sportiva accredited resoled. We filmed the following video on that topic a few years ago: kzbin.info/www/bejne/fWeVf2OaadJ9mdUsi=WHz5Il3mox6nrG8H

[@mikekenny1698]

That guy on the right sounds exactly like Brian Cox lol

[@ukclimbingofficial]

There is no greater compliment than that, surely?! 😅

[@jdouglasjim]

Trying REALLY hard to make no-edge happen. Solution, skwama, theory are just better at everything. MAYBE smearing goes to the no-edge shoes but even then I get 95% of the smearing performance with any of the aforementioned shoes along with much better edging and precision.

[@ukclimbingofficial]

Perhaps there’s another video to be made exploring this topic, because it is an interesting point. I haven’t used the Theory/Solution (they don’t fit me), but I have used the Skwama and agree with you entirely - they’re a very, very good shoe and are at virtually everything. It’d be interesting to compare them to the Futura and Mandala and see which performs the best, indoors and out, bouldering and sport.

[@sventilator2467]

How does the mandala compare to the genius? Is it softer or stiffer?

[@lisameier9931]

softer

[@RM-xq7gf]

less aggressive downturn, similar rubber stiffness (5mm rubber compared to 3 on futuras and 1 on mantras), idk about the softness of the construction of the shoe.

[@markbullock5750]

No amount of money is going to buy me Tim's footwork. Sadly.

[@ukclimbingofficial]

@@markbullock5750 you mean the bit where he campuses Gorilla Warfare?

[@markbullock5750]

@@ukclimbingofficial he actually looks primed for a Stone Roses reunion here! 🤩🤩

[@zackkite]

"No-edging" on vertical terrain sounds great but on overhanging boulders and routes? 💩 I've got a pair of no-edge shoes and if I'm honest I wouldn't buy a pair again. They are just rubbish on anything steep.

[@TrackpadProductions]

TC Pros are rubbish on overhangs, too. Doesn't mean it's a bad shoe.

[@zackkite]

@@TrackpadProductions didn't say they're a rubbish shoe only that they're rubbish on steep stuff. So yes I agree with you.

[@TrackpadProductions]

@@zackkite Fair enough. IMO I find it's less about the angle and more the geology. No-Edge is built for smearing, and you (or at least I) don't typically see as much of that on really steep stuff

[@g.w.customcreations3534]

I always found it easier on dished out limestone footholds, like at Trollers Gill, if I used my bouldering shoes with the edge worn round. Could almost always find a spot that gave traction. As opposed to my sportivas with a nice sharp edge, that would either hold, or just pop without warning.

[@RM-xq7gf]

big disagree. Futuras are a very downturned shoe, and if you downsize you get great tension to pull on bad feet. Even mantras are more aggressive than you'd think, but its wider than the futuras and less precise. source: I own 2 pair of mantras and a pair of futuras 3.5 EU sizes down

[@SLTM5713]

No point in watching as they're never going to fit me and longer second toe 😢

[@ukclimbingofficial]

It's good that you're aware of this, because so many people aren't, but continue to try to get something to fit when it won't. There's so many other good shoes out there that I'm sure you'll find a suitably amazing alternative!

[@SLTM5713]

@@ukclimbingofficial Instinct VSRs and VS are the only ones I've tried that fit well 😅 I'd love something closer to Dragons or Solutions/Theory/Skwama, but I think the asymmetrical shape makes that much harder.

[@tribunalx1471]

💔👎 It's just a still very soft shoe. It is so bad for hard wand ,bars . Five Ten winer 🎉❤,👊👊👊

[@ukclimbingofficial]

I’m not sure I’d describe either as ‘very soft’, but they are soft.

[@bloctribe]

Nothing new nothing special...

[@ukclimbingofficial]

@@bloctribe thanks for your input.

[@g.w.customcreations3534]

​@@ukclimbingofficial 😂

[@thesii213]

The colors are new and nice!

[@alexf2008]

We need to start boycotting these kind of disgusting prices

[@ukclimbingofficial]

Don’t get me wrong, I don’t like paying more, but what do you expect to spend on a specialist and premium shoe that’s been handmade in Italy?

[@alexf2008]

120 euros, the industry standard. The reason they are unwilling to put prices down is because us gullible climbers, and more importantly the new people coming into climbing who are generally relatively well off, see the massive price tag and the fancy advertising and think "well those must be best" and get their wallet out. I would argue that 1) la sportiva are in no way significantly better manufacturers than any other company on the market and that 2) most people would be better off getting a proper shoe from unparallel or 510 or whatever. Most people's footwork is too shit to warrant dishing out that kind of cash anyway, let's be honest.

[@AdHesiveErmine]

​@alexf2008 so true! Believe it or not, I bought my instincts vsr two years ago for 119€ and right now they're like 140/150

[@ukclimbingofficial]

The Instinct VSR was £125 back when they were released in/around 2016, so I'm not sure where you got industry standard from, because 120 Euros hasn't been the standard for the best part of a decade - possibly longer.

[@alexf2008]

Case in point. Exactly when it started going wrong.

[@sergiolopez-uq2kn]

Resole is too expensive and dificult

[@ukclimbingofficial]

I’m not sure where you are in the world but it’s pretty easy here in the UK and a LOT cheaper than a new pair of shoes

[@sergiolopez-uq2kn]

@@ukclimbingofficial i live in spain. My resoler usually do a great job But not with my mantras. You may need a oficial la sportiva resoler and that isnt cheap and fast. Aniway i think mantras are too soft for a good resole may be other no Edge models with more structure are more resole friendly