Ultimate 3D Printer Tuning Guide: Achieve Perfect Prints Every Time!

[@Thisdudechannel]

Love the Pirate Bay and YiFI shortcuts

[@leemerie3d]

Lol, you caught me there!

[@thecamarokid4230]

This is a great video and I love that it's in the order it needs to be in. I never know when to do what, so this is perfect. Thank you.

[@leemerie3d]

Thank you! 🙏 I wanted to make this in order so people could follow it from start to finish and come out with a nice tuned printer.

[@thecamarokid4230]

@@leemerie3d I appreciate it cause no one ever explains that and I feel the order of tuning is just as important as tuning

[@leemerie3d]

@@thecamarokid4230 Absolutely your right! And it can mess up your tuning if things are done wrong like that.

[@thecamarokid4230]

It took some time, but I finally got my START_PRINT macro working! Time to do pressure advance!

[@leemerie3d]

@@thecamarokid4230 Awesome! Getting things going it sounds like. Hopefully the video will help you with the pressure advance setup and calibration. Also see the Ellis tuning guide link in the description there is some great info there.

[@Dead_Aim556]

Amazing I’ve been waiting for something like this for a while!!!! Can you do a video on advanced calibration like belt tension testing etc

[@leemerie3d]

That's great to get your feedback on the video! Thanks for watching. And I had already planned on doing a video on some other things like KAMP and input shaper. Also probably a stand alone video on how to set things up for input shaper. If you have any other suggestions let me know! I'm always happy to hear them. Also join the discord if your not already for personal help and support. More videos will be coming soon! Hang in there and like, subscribe, and don't forget to share! 😁 have a blessed day!

[@gerardveenstra32]

Excellent video, great tips to use.

[@leemerie3d]

Hey thanks man! Hopefully you can put them to good use 😁

[@ericfranklin4240]

Awesome tips just what I needed thanks.

[@leemerie3d]

Thanks 😊 Took me longer than it should have to get that one done lol. Spent some time learning shortcuts for edits rather than continue using the long methods I started using. Stay tuned for mpre videos coming! And don't miss out on the Livestreams every Saturday!

[@hsiangchang8036]

best calibration video

[@leemerie3d]

Thanks! I'm going to work on another soon with some more detailed information into some of the other things that go deeper into calibration. Stay tuned for that!

[@DatMammut76]

Excellent video

[@leemerie3d]

Thank you very much!

[@DatMammut76]

@@leemerie3d no worries, this helped me. Could you maybe make a video for Klipper “add ons” like KAMP, KIAUH, etc? I’d never heard of klippain before and it’s great!

[@CreatedWorkshop]

This is a fantastic video! I just put one of my machines to Klipper and would love to really, _really_ dial it in. I have an A1 mini coming in today so that'll become my high quality printer right out of the box but my Aquila D1 I would really like to make run like a top. I need to get an input shaper system so that way I can really push things to the next level though.

[@leemerie3d]

Thank you for watching! We have a lot of really good stuff coming up as well so it's getting very exciting around here 😁 Also join the discord id love to chat with ya if you need any help with Klipper. I love me some Klipper hehe

[@Mrs.LeeMerie3D]

Nice job!

[@leemerie3d]

❤️ Thank you! 😊

[@marty4286]

LOL I just had to do this last week but the youtube algorithm only showed this to me just now. I could have saved a lot of hours of pain if I discovered your video when I actually needed it. Favorited and subscribed because I'll definitely need to refer to this in the future

[@leemerie3d]

Oh no! Well, thanks for the like and subscribe! I've got tons of great content coming soon also. If you haven't already, join our discord with the link in the description.

[@szabieable]

Dont limit your max accel based on the lowest recomm accel. With this approach you gonna loose plenty print time since infills/travels/internal walls will be limited as well. Limit your slicer

[@leemerie3d]

Absolutely you can limit this in your slicer instead and leave the printer.cfg to a higher accel for other moves. As far as the Klipper documents recommend this method so I went with that for the video. I will be doing some more videos coming up on more detailed things like this exactly your referring to. Thanks for watching the video and for the tips. They are always welcome 😀

[@BradTN7]

Amazing tips!

[@leemerie3d]

Thank you! Got more great content on the way my friend 💯 🙂

[@Thisdudechannel]

You also need to include the dampening ratio from the input shaper graph.

[@leemerie3d]

That would have been a good idea! Bring any other ideas you have over to our discord if ya want. Always trying to make things better ❤️

[@Killa_Prints]

Good video man!

[@leemerie3d]

Thank you sir! I just posted in the discord the link too lol. I was hoping it uploaded okay and everyone liked it 😁 More videos coming soon!

[@misclickable]

I just got an Ender 3 V3 KE. Is there a detailed guide showing how to reach the console? Do I need to root my machine and then install what?

[@leemerie3d]

I don't know if a specific guide for you at the moment. But if you could join our discord, me or another member could help you out.

[@misclickable]

@@leemerie3d i will join now, thanks

[@mortegutt]

Won't the acceleration settings impact pressure advance results? Therefore input shaping should be done before any other tests to define the acceleration settings?

[@leemerie3d]

Good catch. I actually plan to upload a more detailed video soon on tuning that goes into some things I could not cover in this amount of time. This will get you in a very good range if when you do your PA you set your approx accel and travel you will be okay. I actually could run my accels way faster than I do. I run my "farm" machines at 4k but IS would allow for much faster. Don't want to burn out the bearings quicker just for a little more speed on them. But yes! Good catch! Come on over to the discord if you would like! Can always use another bright mind in the bunch 😊 Link is in the video and on the channel. Thanks for watching!

[@JosephStory]

Which EBB36 mount are you using on this printer? Looks more robust than the one I am currently using.

[@JosephStory]

Well, looks like the angle is a bit reversed from mine since I'm using Galileo 2.

[@leemerie3d]

I'm not sure actually. I'll have to check and see which one I used here and let you know. The Galileo is great btw!

[@PapaWaykith]

After restart from SAVE_CONFIG it always errors as klipper has commented out the information that was saved are you supposed to copy and paste it to the section?

[@leemerie3d]

Are you talking about the PID tuning? If so, the save_config just saves it to the bottom of the printer.cfg

[@marcus3d]

Should you leave the PID tuning variables commented out?

[@leemerie3d]

If they are at the bottom of the config they will seem commented out, but that section is the save config section of your config. If your using the section under the extruder for the PID tuning variables then you would not want to leave it commented out. After the PID tuning if you run the save_config, it will save those variables to the very bottom of your config under the "do not edit below this line" section. And that's where it pulls the info from. I hope that makes sense. Come join the discord if you would like! Have a great day and thank you for watching the video.

[@marcus3d]

@@leemerie3d Really? If fluidd/mainsail is interpreting some lines starting with # but ignoring other lines starting with # then that's insanely bad design. Are you 100% sure it really interprets those #-lines?

[@leemerie3d]

@@marcus3d Just to be sure we are talking about the same thing. I'm referring to the bottom of the config. It's the lines that have #*# that are interpreted differently.

[@marcus3d]

@@leemerie3d Anything starting with #.

[@leemerie3d]

@@marcus3d If it is not at the bottom of the config and have a #*#. And it's only # then Klipper will disregard that line. Can you join the discord and we could chat some more in there if you have more questions. The link is in the description and also on the info page of the KZbin.

[@ChitosVids]

Of these tests, which need to be done per filament and which ones only need to be done once or per machine service?

[@leemerie3d]

Great question! So the esteps and the PID tuning will not need to be done per filament. The pressure advance and the flow calibration needs to be per filament. Mostly, this can be the same with the same brand of filament but different colors. But if you change to a different brand (or type, PLA vs ABS) you would want to recalibrate them. Then the input shaper is obviously just a machine setting so that has nothing to do with filament. Thanks for the question and watching the video! I hope I answered your question well.

[@ChitosVids]

@@leemerie3d does the order in which you do the tuning matter? im guessing machine tunning would need to be done first?

[@falxonPSN]

Newbie question: can the PID calibration and e step tuning steps be done on a non-Klipper printer like a Prusa XL?

[@leemerie3d]

To be fair, I don't have a Prusa.. YET ;) But the PID tuning is a definite yes. The input shaping I'm not sure. Join the discord server and some other guys there that have that machine can help you with that if you would like. Thanks for watching the video btw!

[@tokin420nchokin]

Why does it seem like you have more temperature data to the left of your numbers than I do? Im having a lot of problems with temperature! I suddenly started having problems one day that could only be resolved by cranking temps up about 20 degrees higher than they should be. I went to investigate ans the heater cartridge clamp bolt got rounded out. I had to cut the wires to get it out, so I ordered a replacement thermistor and heater. I put a bigger heater in (24v50w instead of a 40w, and a new cartridge style thermistor) I also installed a microswiss ht heat block so I can use cartridge type sensors. I was still having the problem, used slice thermal paste, no different. Ultimately I ordered another sensor, this time a pt1000. Updated sensor type, pid tuned... this time at room temp the sensor was reading 2 degrees colder than the bed. I added a pullup resistor to the cfg slightly over 4700 ohm, which leveled the room temp numbers out. I ran a temp tower print and it did print down to 210, might go lower (which is an improvement because it wouldnt print beyond the second layer at 235 before) do you have any idea whats going on? Is it some kind of assembly issue? Im not sure what to do though, feeling a bit defeated here. Thanks for any suggestions you might have.

[@leemerie3d]

If you could please join the discord, the link is in my bio here and we can much easier help you there!

[@tokin420nchokin]

@@leemerie3d sure

[@marcus3d]

17:47 All those look underextruded with gaps between the lines.

[@leemerie3d]

It takes some time to be able to really see what's going on with these. And I had a really hard time getting images unfortunately. If you look in the description of the video, I added a link to Ellis tuning guide and he has some better images there. So you will sort of always see "gaps" though since it's the nature of 3d printing. Just have to rule out the gaps from under extruding and the gaps from over extruding and once you can see those. You will have a better time with the eyes to see the perfect ones. Join our discord if you need some help! Good lucky and thanks for watching, have a great day!

[@belenhedderich3330]

Excelent Video how about Max Speeds and accelerations?

[@leemerie3d]

Thank you! I did add in there (only by text because I almost forgot that part) to get the max accel from the input shaper and put in the config. But I didn't get it on voice since I had already finished that part. I could make a whole video on the speeds actually would be best. Keep lookout we got some really good stuff coming out in the coming weeks also!

[@xManzi]

This is one of the best, all encompassing videos. But man, just lose that music... It is really distracting when you try to follow

[@leemerie3d]

I almost didn't put that in there. Thank you for the tip on this though cause that was something I debated and I almost didn't add any music to it. Next video I'll leave it out. Sorry about that :(

[@xManzi]

@@leemerie3d Don't worry man. The more videos you do, the better you become. This video is so good, you have nothing to worry about. It would be good to get into those "first setup" since you have a lot of Vorons, bed mesh and similar things could be useful, especially if they are in the form of this video.

[@nickolaysosnitsky3420]

This stupid background music makes me crazy! Very awful choice.

[@leemerie3d]

Sorry about that. It was not the best decision I'm aware. Won't be in the next one.

[@MikeysLab]

Piping a script from the internet directly to bash (inout shaper) just made every IT seburity person vomit and freak out :) Please download the script, verify it is what you think it is with a cat command, then run it from the command line :)

[@leemerie3d]

Wait, what? Lol. You mean the klippian shake and tune? Anything that I run and show a video of how to do. Has been tested. I promise. You will come to trust that with me. But in the mean time. People are welcome to verify things, and that's not a bad idea actually. I'll mention that next time. Thanks for the input, it's always appreciated.

[@MikeysLab]

@@leemerie3d I agree that true klipper code is fine, but, you can't be sure the source was not compromised, or a man in the middle attack has happened. Generally anytime you see "| bash" it is a bad idea, remove the "| bash", after the wget run cat to verify it is what you think it is, then run the script via ./

[@leemerie3d]

@@MikeysLab Ah, I see. Nice! Thank you for the heads up, I'm definitely not a Linux pro.

[@deeply999]

although was a great video, I am not a fan of using extruder cold to run filament through, it is not under pressure when extruding through nozzle so it does not actually get the proper length of filament asked of it when printing. It is a good ball park to start at, but I will always go hot and with what ever nozzle size I run for a specific machine. Most are .06 nozzle with sherpa mini into a rapido v2. using draginburner toolhead. or Xol2

[@leemerie3d]

I had that same thought before. The reason I do cold without the nozzle, I feel it makes it more accurate between all machines. Either method is fine. As long as you are extruding very slow while hot. In the end, it doesn't matter as long as they all match between machines. As you have to calibrate the EM as well. Thanks for watching the video and thank you for the input! It's much appreciated. Join the server if you would like.