ULTIMATE Bambu X1 - Sub-10 Minute Benchys!

[@MandicReally]

The E3D Hotend are BACK IN STOCK! As of right now, February 19th, a resupply has dropped: e3d-online.com/products/hf-obx-bambu?aff=23 (affiliate link)

[@3vlogs487]

Funny timing

[@MandicReally]

@@3vlogs487 how so?

[@3vlogs487]

@@MandicReally I just came back to rewatch the video because my included horned with the P1S is worn

[@SuperEdiggity]

Thank you for Not jamming the heat to the ceiling for the flow test. People act like temperature only effects flow and flow is the only thing worth bragging about! Very refreshing to see a realistic test

[@Geoff_W]

A lot of creators skip PETG when doing testing like this, but I really wish they wouldn't. I find you learn a lot more about flow rate because of how that material misbehaves when flow rate gets inconsistent.

[@MandicReally]

I find that PETG flow capabilities varies more than other materials. I don't use it for that very reason. Its inconsistency between manufacturers makes it difficult to discuss. And in the end, I've largely stopped using it as a printing material. ASA is rising in popularity as enclosed machines become more common place, and PLA is still king. So that is what I cover. And for some unexplained reason the Bambu has always been extra finicky about PETG for me. Maybe the material I use (GreenGate3D), but it has been so I moved away from it long ago.

[@1fareast14]

Yep, max flow is less limiting than that material's max linear adhesion speed. I raise my layer height for petg fairly often

[@oli4572]

For PETG I usually go down with printspeed for sake of quality. I find overhangs and bridging benefits from that. Interesting to see PETG at higher speeds with the new part cooling fan duct.

[@colinmsmall]

I print almost exclusively in petg on a Bambu X1C. I have excellent results with Sunlu, hatchbox, and qidi tech. The Bambu flow rate calibration makes all the difference and drying the filament also makes a world of difference. I would prefer to print in abs or asa but I need proper ventilation and I don’t have that yet. PLA is awesome but only for some types of prints. If I care about the print durability and not having it melt in the summer also I prefer petg. If PLA had the same heat resistance I would probably stick to PLA. I want to do Asa and abs… someday.

[@rickybobbyracing9106]

I just learned my first lesson on that the other day.

[@kilianlindlbauer8277]

One thing i noticed with the bambu hotends: the thermistor position is vastly influential on the flow rate at a set speed. Here is what my testing resulted: dragon hf with included copper nozzle and 60w heater got me 27mm3/s at 250c abs. The aliexpress bambu hotend i used was the first revision, so basically like the stock, but with removable nozzle and copper instead of brass for the heater block. If you install a v6 nozzle its melt zone is exactly as long as the one from a dragon hf. Same material, same length and the bambu one has even a heater that covers more of the heater itself. Results were still bad, 28mm3/s with a genuine bondtech cht at 250c. With the copper nozzle it was only 23. To get the same result i had to increase the temperature by 20c, which makes sense as the filament on the bambu one gets exposed to a lower temperature than the thermistor measures. On a dragon hf its exactly the opposite, the filament is exposed to a higher temperature than the thermistor sees due to the arrangement of the components. While testing at e3d you already noticed the changed thermistor position making it awkward to install the clip. Part of why the e3d obxidian hotend outperformed the others so greatly is the different thermistor position i dont know by how much, but its guaranteed that it played a part in it. As for the longevity of the heatsink of the AE hotend i wouldn't worry too much, you built a stealthburner and that thing has a filament path consisting out of plastic for a good portion. The helical spur gears on the fysetc feed gears do improve the meshing, making it more uniform, not more efficient, but also introduce a axial load which causes the gears to go out of alignment. The angle of the gearing causes a forward force on one gear and a backward one on the other, so the filament won't be in the deepest spot of the hobbing if you understand what i mean. To counter that effect the feed gears would need some sort of axial guidance, which they dont have. The idler runs on needle bearings and the idler leaver isn't even suspended on bearings. Of course this is theoretical, the friction between shaft and ball bearings might be greater than the axial force making my last paragraph useless in reality. As far as the cooling ducts go, you rarely see any improvement when increasing cooling in terms of maximum overhang angle. The maximum overhang angle is determined by the ratio of line width and height as with a low layer height the next layer isnt as much spaced out as with a coarser layer height. For example, a 2 to 1 ratio (0,4mm width and 0,2mm height) results in about 55 to 60 degree angles factoring in that a extruded line is rounded at the edge and not rectangular. So you could install a cpap fan and still get crappy overhangs over 60 degrees. For that reason my default line width is 0,5mm instead of 0,4mm while retaining the 0,2mm layer height. Anyway good video and i like that you always get straight to the point of the video, not much fuss around it. Please keep that

[@TheNuclearBolton]

damn

[@rjakiel73]

For me the attraction to the E3D hot end is the wear resistance. The ObXidian nozzle has been likened to equal or greater than wear resistance to tungsten carbide with the thermal properties of brass. In essence one nozzle for basic PLA and then go right into the abrasive crap with ZERO worries and no need to change the filament profiles I already have set which is fantastic.

[@802Garage]

A note on the CHT clone nozzles with copper inserts: In my testing, they actually impede flow rate unless you chamfer the copper insert to look more like a CHT nozzle. The insert simply blocks too much of the filament entry. After modification, they outflow a standard brass nozzle. Also, I believe the steel outer does reduce heat transfer efficiency, like any tool steel nozzle. Once the insert is modified, it can still outflow a standard nozzle at the same temp, but a temp increase for compensation also helps. Lastly, other people have tested if the copper insert wears down from abrasive filament and have found that's not the case. Basically, they are not great nozzles as they come, but with a quick Dremel mod they are overall excellent.

[@24h_]

How would you recommend trying this mod? Are there any more detailed instructions?

[@802Garage]

@@24h_ I used a Dremel with a very small cone shaped diamond burr bit. Any kind of sanding attachment can work if it's small enough. Basically you want something cone or radiused cone shaped that is small enough to fit in the unchamfered holes that you can grind towards the center without taking metal off the top of the outer steel portion. You'll be holding the Dremel at basically the same angle the filament would be pointing into the nozzle, just at a slight angle for each hole. Low speed will work fine, but just go slow until you get the hang of it. Grind until the dividing walls between each of the three entries come to a point instead of having a flat at the top. For some of my nozzles I went even further by grinding a slight divot in each of the walls and then grinding back to a thin peak so that all three walls are thin and scalloped with the center meeting point forming a slight point, similar to how the actual CHT nozzle looks. It doesn't really matter if it's perfectly even, but I did my best to make it uniform. The main point is to eliminate the flat surfaces the filament would hit and increase the area the filament has to enter the rest of the nozzle. If you are going to use these clone CHT nozzles, I definitely recommend it. Just try not to damage the flat top portion that seals against the heatbreak.

[@AK.Navy.Veteran]

I inherited 4 X1C/AMS sold one and bought, Qidi X-Smart-3 and X-Max-3. I print a lot of Carbon Fiber parts for the drag racing engines we custom build. Over all performance between the X1C and X-Max-3, I prefer the X-Max-3. Both have there pros and cons. However both have been great on printing billet parts & pre-preg fiber parts. We used the X1C to print the ASA-CF Hilborn stack ram tubes. Be nice if I could upload pictures on KZbin.

[@DuckyWhy]

As far as you're issue with the TRP being tripped, the heating power is simply not enough. 48 watts of heating power is really only enough to keep up with the stock bambu lab hotend. there are some mods that people (including myself) have done where they would use heating elements with higher power ratings or wiring 2 of them in parallel to get more power. In doing so they can push higher flow rates and even higher temperatures. I personally was able to push around 70mm^3/sec flow rates and 320C hotend after my dual ceramic heater mod and it allowed me to get a 6:01 minute benchy out of it!

[@KrispysRC]

The amount of knowledge and how you explain everything is insane! Coming from an Ender 3 my X1C amazes me every single day. But im still always looking to upgrade stuff and improve! Thank you for passing on your knowledge!

[@legobuildingsrewiew7538]

This guy is providing free value upfront. Liked. More people should be like him.

[@hot_wheelz]

What I'd love to see you test (as one of the very few creators who has managed to obtain the E3D Obsidian HF Hotend) is how the E3D HF Hotend compares with the Big Tree Tech X1 Panda Revo Hotend running a HF nozzle. Granted that the Revo HF hotends aren't hardened, but given that I don't print a lot of abrasive filaments, I would be willing to swap the convenience of the Revo quick swap nozzle system for, on the rare occasions when I want to print something abrasive, the need to swap the nozzle for a standard flow rate hardened steel revo nozzle.

[@MandicReally]

Revo ObXidian High Flow is coming (And I have some of them already). I'm waiting on the release version of the Revo Panda. I have the Revo Panda but it was an engineering sample and changes have been made. So watch out real soon.

[@hot_wheelz]

@@MandicReally being completely honest, once Revo ObXidian High Flow Nozzles are publicly available, assuming that the Panda X1 Revo Hotend with a HF nozzle can reliably do above 35mm² / second then the current Bambu / E3D collab option will be pretty much pointless at least for me.

[@LincolnWorld]

For the price, I really think they should have a fully assembled with all parts needed hot end for the E3D high flow. At the least they should offer a fully assembled version, even if it adds to the price. A lot of people I know with Bambu's have them because they don't want to tinker at all.

[@shawnhicks619]

I have to wonder if the development of this hot end is more about the next gen printer Bambu is developing and less about unlocking the current lineup. While I understand why some would be intimidated by changing over the heater, thermistor and fan it’s not that terrible of a job. Since I have so many Bambu machines in my shop I bought extra complete hot ends as well as extra nozzles so I can swap the complete assembly in and get the machine running quickly and just swap nozzles over at my convenience. And to date I’ve only broken 1 nozzle due to the print I was doing and only had one nozzle clog so bad I couldn’t recover it. So to my mind the Bambu nozzles aren’t that bad. As far as pushing more performance out of the machine, I’m kinda torn on that. Yeah there are times I wish it was faster but then I remember how fast the machines I replaced were. And it’s not like I only have 1 kicking around here either. All I really want is the bigger build volume. Sure there is the k1 max or the QUDI tech x 3 max but those have issues I don’t wanna deal with. I’m just hoping that in the next 3-6 months Bambu finally releases a bigger machine.

[@JoshMurrah]

I really enjoyed all this content - really great job on the testing of flow - that E3D hotend is looking more and more worth it - I was a little surprised to hear how much cooler you print by default - congrats on the fast speed benchy!!

[@MandicReally]

I’ve tested Polymaker ASA back and forth and got my machines and uses, 240-255 is all it needs. Heck my 0.1 I have gone a slow as 235, but I bumped that up as I was concerned about adhesion strength. Never proved a problem but wanted to play it safer.

[@MrBaskins2010]

this is a pretty dope set of upgrades. the finished product looks so clean. you're quite the engineer. this video didnt feel long but like a comprehensive journey build. great editing on this one

[@MandicReally]

Thank you very much, I worried the pacing so it is great to here that perspective. Glad you enjoyed it.

[@calpetersenmechengineer]

Great upgrades, really make the printer capable of serious engineering work!

[@st3venb]

I love your Bambu content, I don’t see myself tinkering with my x1 which I’m super happy with as is stock but it’s nice seeing what it’s capable of.

[@teabagNBG]

got me a p1s two weeks ago... first i installed a led riser for the ams... after the first print with the riser on i noticed the cable chain and ptfe tube hitting the riser... then i made cable clips to hold to ptfe tube.. it was better but still appeared... then i added a ptfe guide for the print head!! i couldn't get the ptfe tube out so i had to make a toolset too LOOOOOL finally i was able to get the guide on the printhead. with the new guide and the cable clips its perfect now, did a few big test prints an no clicking at all!!! just modiefied the riser and addeda led diffuser wich came out pefect,... now im printing a power button to power the usb powered leds... tomorrow i also will print some ams ptfe tube guides... that probably will be it for the beginning..

[@xBiiO]

I really wish you could get a diamondback nozzle for the bambu. Ive seen where people drill and cut their hotends to accept a diamondback. Something about doing that though gives me anxiety. Have you considered using a second auxiliary part cooling fan?

[@FTBT3D]

Killer list of mods and great indepth look at them all. Very well done, Alan!

[@MandicReally]

Thank you very much Brad.

[@therick0996]

Brad!

[@chartle1]

For those hooking up the bento box fans and dont want to drill any holes, there is sort of a pathway through the bottom to left and behind rear lead screw. I printed some small pads with hooks for cable management so it stayed away from the bed.

[@mytubemurray]

Great video as always and loved the intro, so cool!

[@TommyHoughton]

That BEN2C cooling duct is pretty interesting, I can't design fan ducts at all, so seeing something so complex and well-designed is really admirable. I absolutely love upgrading printers, so seeing the X1 pushed is awesome. I hope there'll be another episode in the future!

[@knifeyonline]

this was an easy watch, I can't believe it was the longest video to date! very interesting stuff.

[@Whateverco3D]

I always wondered if a second auxiliary parts cooling fan could help with overhangs.

[@MandicReally]

Watch out for a future video. 😉 "Ultimate P1S" maybe?

[@Thetamato70]

Any issues with the fystec gears after all this time? And updates on that mod?

[@muuzen7731]

I used the AE HF hotend for about 900 hours of printing. It worked quite well and never had a clog on it. Then I bought the BQ Panda Revo - X1. Wish I could say it's better, but it fried my toolhead board

[@alflo8970]

I've read that a few times now, really curious what is wrong with the pandas. I saw posts about horrendous quality control issue like already ripped cables out of the box so I'm not too surprised though.

[@linyongzheng]

Very cool upgrades. Definitely will be looking into installing the baffles. I use the chimera mod which modifies a V1 china CHT hotend (no plate & extra support screws) to accept standard V6 sized nozzles so I can use diamondback nozzles. I haven't done any comparisons between my chimera, stock, etc. but anecdotally part strength & layer adhesion seems stronger with my modified nozzle compared to stock, or the V2 china CHT. I'm certainly hoping that my diamondbacks are the nozzles I'll have to buy for this machine.

[@tj8858]

Thanks for the video !! I really love your attention to detail! Also happy you did this for the x1c. I am a fellow x1c/Voron owner and have been curious about these mods to the x1. Thanks for being a trail blazer and showing the way.

[@vinnnocc]

I’ve been printing my poly ASA at 13mm3s haha super low gotta bump that number up

[@vinnnocc]

I can confirm poly ASA stock hotend 26. Will set to 25 to be safe. And I print at 260c

[@SlowEvo8]

When you replaced the STL with the e3d racetrack model, did you scale the z axis to what the orca model was? At 12:37 it shows the Orca model has a height of 62mm. At 12:42 when you replaced the STL it has a height of 75mm. The slider on the right shows there are 235 layers as well. I know you can't show everything in the video when you're editing it but I also noticed at 22:01 you show the error and the screen shows 235 total layers. How did you take your measurements to determine max volumetric flow? Did you use the Orca slicer wiki to determine the values or did you compensate in a different way? Is there a different way to come up with the value with the e3d model? Hope that made sense. Clarify if I'm wrong about something.

[@MandicReally]

Yea I scaled the E3D one to fit the bed better and match the necessary height. Then I exported it and used that STL (so I didn’t have to scale it every time). I should probably just upload the model I “created” but didn’t feel right about uploading their work with so little changes.

[@SlowEvo8]

​@@MandicReally Gotcha yea simply scaling the model wouldn't constitute a remix I don't think. Thank you for clarifying.

[@YouTubeStat]

Great video!!! Just out of curiosity, you mentioned running slower than stock for improved quality. I don't suppose you would do a video on getting the best quality and possibly how to properly support prints? Really curious in the best way of getting quality prints. Anyways, no matter if you can or can't, really appreciate what you do and love watching your videos so thank you!

[@widget5963]

My ADHD thanks you for also talking so clearly so that I can consume these at 2x speed :D

[@darthtater]

Great video, I've seen all these mods and wonder how well they work. I appreciate you trying them out.

[@PaDawg]

Fantastic video as always. Thank you. Any chance you might do a video or give us a link to the settings you use for better quality. I’ve messed with acceleration and speeds but I’m sure your settings would be better since you surely know what your doing.

[@Ich8in]

I don't think abrasive materials attack the inside of the nozzle, the only "high pressure" is at the actual end of the nozzle and abrasion is more likely to happen at the bottom of the horizontal surface where the nozzle brushes over the model. (i'm only talking about the melting zone, i'm not talking about abrasion from solid filament running in)

[@oli4572]

I saw good results with the AE Hotend and brass HF bored AE nozzles, up to 30 to 32, with PLA, PETG and also ASA and ABS. Every abrasive Material was a nightmare with the hardend AE Nozzle with copper core. I sign your result 100%. I am waiting for the panda hotend, willing to use this with HF Revo nozzles. They claims they will be available by march.

[@MandicReally]

I’m waiting on the release sample of the Panda, but I should have it… soon? I also have the ObXidian Revo High Flow here, so we shall see what we can do. 👌🏻 I also have already killed the AE hardened nozzle in less than 1kg of filament. 😬

[@alflo8970]

@@MandicReally Eager to see that test! I really liked the Revo on my Prusa MK3s as the nozzle swapping is just so simple. I still prefer the swapping design on the bambu over the classic E3D wrench stuff but it's a pain nonetheless.

[@3vlogs487]

I doubt the copper insert will be an issue, the plastic is more molten there, most nozzle damage happens from the nozzle running over the cooled material where the carbon fibers are locked into place.

[@MandicReally]

That is certainly the higher wear point. And I wore out the AliExpress nozzle in less than 800g of Glow In the Dark filament.

[@Skrap007]

Just looking at the Overhang comparison tests you had from the side it looked like the stock versions didn't hold up to the angle it should have been compared with the BEN2C, what is it measuring with an angle gauge as compared to what the print says at that angle?

[@JakobDam]

Thanks for making this! Very thorough, very useful! That E3D ObXidian HF looks very promosing. It surpasses my Monoprice Delta Pro with CHT nozzle and stock hotend; where I can go to just shy of 25 mm3/s, which is pretty good for a machine that age. I did try to push acceleration and print speed, but I don't get half of what the Bambu Lab printers can do, because the delta beds' rods are magnetically attached, and at those speeds, the magnetic rods simply detaches. However, even at more modest speeds of around 120-170 mm/s print speeds and 5,000 mm/s acceleration, I experience more drooping and stringing than with a standard nozzle. In my testing, this is inherent to the CHT nozzles I have. It would be nice to see whether the AliExpress and E3D ObXidian HF setups do this too, as this extra stringing is pretty annoying to have to remove. The benchy doesn't quite reveal how severe this problem is, but a string tower test will.

[@digital0785]

I believe someone tested the copper sleeve and it wasn't a bad thing the point of the 3 paths are to increase surface area and heat more evenly which technically a little wear will open up the holes but shouldn't change what comes out the tip I think it's hilarious how much people say the same thing you said about why go faster.. my question is .. why not? lol if you're saying why go faster then why buy a bambu the quest for speed is literally why bambu exists people making faster printers for ages and then a consumer friendly one came out lol

[@Those_Weirdos]

5:05 I would have probably put another layer of TPU beneath the airflow guide here since it's only got one screwhole. That'll help cut down on more noise, at least.

[@JayEm16]

AYE!!!! A philly guy! From South Jersey myself 10 min from the Walt!

[@GarryWButler]

Thanks! Your reviews were on of the reasons I got the X1C. Are you goin to cover any of the Panda stuff from Big TreeTech? I’m really happy with Bambu and how they are starting to work with 3rd parties. I was awesome to hear how they are directly working with X1 +.

[@MandicReally]

I'm waiting on a delivery. Look out real soon. I don't believe the BTT Panda stuff is working WITH Bambu. To my knowledge the only company actually working WITH them is E3D on the ObXidian High Flow. Everyone else is just doing their own thing around it and Bambu isn't raising a stink.

[@GarryWButler]

@@MandicReally I get it. It would be interesting to see if they have a contact with Bambu. I’d also love to see Bambu do a “Made for Bambu” program.

[@Kyle-dz9bm]

This feels like a video of diminishing returns but I guess I wont know for sure until I try them all 😉😂

[@SVCprints]

I’m curious if you do anything for ventilation out side of your work area? I have bought a few rolls of ASA and I made a bento box. Really want to start printing some ASA but I’m worried to cause any harm to me, my family or the cat for that matter. lol my printers live in my closet just outside of my master bathroom (it’s the only place I have to setup printers) so my debate is running the bathroom exhaust fan and a bento box enough? Or should I be looking to vent straight from the printer? Obviously don’t want to reduce chamber temps. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated! Don’t wanna put anyone in harms way but also really want to print some ASA!!!

[@JoshMurrah]

question on the Bento fans - how are you dealing with tach wires since there's two fans and one connection? Did you just hook one tach up and jump the 24v/gnd/signal on both of them together?

[@MandicReally]

This. Does mean one fan may read improperly but it is the only way I can see to do it and not send an inaccurate signal back. Just realized I didn’t say which way I did it. I only used one Tach signal wire. Spliced the rest together.

[@1fareast14]

15:23 i don't remember which abrasive test I saw, but the upshot was that most of the way was at the tip, and the copper insert was fine

[@MandicReally]

I've already been doing testing and found that to be the case. The nozzle is already just about ruined and the copper is still largely fine. But it only took 800g of filament to ruin the nozzle so... I'll post more soon-ish.

[@mikecrane2782]

Thanks for this video, looking to ramp my X1C as I too use ASA a lot for functional prints, so found you doing the donkey on this is really helpful, already fitted the BEN2C duct. Waiting for X1plus firmware to give more options

[@ChromakeyDreamcoat]

Hey @MandicReally, I am running the K1 CHCB-OT heater element on the E3D nozzle. Only problem with it, it's too short to connect to the board, so i had to extend it. I was able to push about 50MM^3. I have a video on my account showcasing 50mm^3, but I think it can go even higher. We also tried the Rapido v2 heater, but that killed their TH board. I still need to run more tests.

[@MandicReally]

I was pushing 55mm3/s with the Sub-10 minute Benchys. It was... working, but likely underextruding a bit. When I tried to push to 60mm3/s is when I got the one that was a full on failure, ha. I'll wait for some further testing on heater options. Or hopefully the X1+ team can get PID tuning integrated.

[@ChromakeyDreamcoat]

@@MandicReally Got another Benchy at 80mm^3 on bambu pla. 11:22min

[@gv100_blitz]

Note for presenting bar graphs, maybe make each filament a different color/shade to help readability!

[@oldman1944]

Interesting video, thanks! My understanding with the hardened nozzles was that most of the wear occurs as the tip of the nozzle brushes over the cooled plastic on each pass, and the melted filament passing slowly through the inside doesn't abrade it nearly as much if at all. Might be wrong though!

[@How2Texan]

I would be interested in the results of the copper throat high flow wear test. According to diamondback nozzle wear is primarily caused by the tip rubbing on the printed plastic rather than the extrusion itself. That being said, try using a noclogger with the tri-hole insert.

[@KirkVSSpock]

Great video ! I have 2 questions Concerning the board fan mod, would you better install it pushing fresh air inside the box or pulling hot air outside of the box ? Could the Bentobox at full speed when printing ABS or ASA have an effect on print quality due to air forced to travel into the printer chamber ? Thanks !

[@PLr1c3r]

Great vid. I'd like to see you take on the VZ bot printer with its AWD system, I could see you taking it to the next level with all of the potential it has.

[@M.J.C.W.]

I thought I had heard somewhere that the nozzle gets damaged as the filament is cooling on the plate and not necessarily in the hot end so I wonder if the copper will erode as aggressively as a tip would

[@hhoop3876]

Watching this while fixing my Ender 3 is a weird feeling

[@MandicReally]

I should really go work on my Ender 3 now. We use what works and what we have. I want to rotate my Ender 3 back into the mix ASAP.

[@eaman11]

Ender 3 is more fun as you can tweak the firmware and all the hardware, upgrade Marlin and try Klipper. Mine does 17m.

[@hhoop3876]

@@eaman11I already switched to Klipper. Just swapped to the Satsana fan duct and now I’m getting a bunch of stringing 😭

[@jckf]

That fan gasket isn't doing much since you still screw the fans directly to the housing, meaning they're still hard-mounted.

[@rsquared9703]

On the ally express hot end, can you use a diamondback nozzle with it? I think it would be funny to have a $20 hot end with a $99 nozzle. Also, I agree that compensating flow with temperature isn’t ideal. You run the risk of the plastic going past it’s melt temperatures and decomposing in the hot end.

[@SirPoonga]

Great video. Where is the charcoal box?

[@SpaceGringos3D]

Out of this world printer for sure!

[@tristanswanink5616]

Great video, interesting to watch and over to soon. I'm ordering the E3D nozzle a proper upgrade for 6% of the machine price. Thanks for giving the clear demonstration.

[@hippopotamus86]

Are you sure you're using the correct fans? The pulse signal may either be the incorrect voltage (5v rather than 3.3v) or the control board may be using an analogue signal rather than pulses.

[@MandicReally]

Haven’t a clue as I didn’t feel like setting up an oscilloscope to test. So far they work well. They clearly set to differing speeds when commanded and have been running for many hours since this video without issue. That is all I can know without a full detailed spec sheet from both manufacturers or a fair bit of time with a scope. Mine is long out of commission so trial and error is where I land.

[@krisj1274]

Are you planning on testing the E3D Hotend vs the Biqu Revo? Would love to see the differences between them.

[@MandicReally]

Watch out real SOON. 👍

[@lqqkout8214]

Great video, thank you for all the work and documentation!

[@ck7802]

I get wanting to test flow rates at the temps you print at. that makes total sense. What doesn't make sense to me is why you settled on 240 for your asa. That is 10c below the default temp in the slicer for that material. It is also the lowest value suggested by polymaker for that filament.

[@MandicReally]

Because I’ve printed probably 50-100 kg of this exact material and tested it back and forth. On my machines, for my use cases, 235-250 is the temperature range it likes. On my Bambu X1 it is 245C. On my 0.1, it is 235. My 2.4: 244. It prints happily, flows well, and produces strong parts that are currently holding half the 3d printers in my studio together. Plenty of people think I print it too cool, but it works VERY well for me. Hotter just produces more stringing and reduced overhang quality with no appreciable difference in any other properties.

[@richardbennett8678]

How can I tell how many hours my printer has on it? Thanks

[@proaudiorestore8926]

Great video! Did you do a video on the sound deadening sheets you applied inside the X1. It’s something I’ve been considering for a while and just wondered how well it worked out?

[@MandicReally]

That was my very first modding video with the X1. You can find the video here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/fYfKiGuXYtGslacsi=Tt2Qil44ZKqUJrPS It made a marginal difference. Not unhappy I did it, but it wasn't a big change.

[@DrStoooopid]

I think the Ender 3 V3 KE is the new "budget" printer. It's fast, and it's pretty solid. I ran an 8 year old spool of Catalyst filament thru it (the vacuum seal broke so it was just a spool in a bag, and if you know anything about Catalyst, it was SH!T filament....kinks galore, and I've yet to have a roll that wasn't cross wound in at least one place)....printed like a charm. I like it more than my prusa.

[@macdox69]

Wonder when you did the water test if having the auxillary fan on as well affected the center point.

[@MandicReally]

Potentially but with most of the materials I run (ABS/ASA) I don’t run the auxiliary fan at all. It’s compensating for a part cooling setup that could have been better designed in my opinion. You still need part cooling with those higher temp materials so a better focused system does make sense.

[@macdox69]

@@MandicReally I totally agree and print mostly ASA as well. I just thought maybe there was some reasoning to it as it seems like a pretty big miss on BL's part. What seems to be the one of the first thing people always do with printers in the past... print a better cooling part fan.

[@sem2rodas]

Hi, did you solve the VFA in prints with this machine?

[@ameliabuns4058]

OOh i'd be so curious to see the copper insert testing! I had one on my prusa and I absolutely loved it (Volcano CHT) and with my 200g of CF filament I saw no change, but I only printed 200g :P

[@noahkatz9616]

Does the Bento box reduce max print size?

[@Killa_Prints]

I'm also a fan of the support on the AliExpress nozzle. I have somehow bent 2 stock Hotends during print failures. None since swapping over

[@MandicReally]

I guess I've just been lucky to this point. Fingers crossed it stays that way for me.

[@brokenengel7846]

Worth it or Creality k1 max

[@KhanGirey]

E3D advertises better consistency with their hotend. If I like to print at slower speeds, will I see any benefit over a standard hardened hotend?

[@MandicReally]

The ObXidian coating supposedly reduces filament build up on the nozzle. I haven’t had to clean mine since installing it but I’ve still had some boogers drag into a multicolor print. So it doesn’t fix Bambu’s less than stellar nose wiping. There is an argument to be made that you’ll improve part strength with a hotend that can flow better, but I don’t have data to back that. I’d say it isn’t worth it unless you just want a hotend that should last a long time and things stick to a little less. There is also “Plastic Repellant Paint” from Slice Engineering that does a similar thing and could be used on a stock nozzle.

[@earthwormjim]

I think the older revision of the aliexpress hot end is better. It lacks the two extra screws, so heat creep is less likely, and it can be modded to match the same exact height as the stock hotend.

[@TheFrozenOne92]

Hey there mandic. Thanks for all your work and efforts! Regarding the hotends you might have overlooked a interesting one. Biqu and bigtreetech partnered up and build the panda revo hotend for the x/p series printers, which allows you to install every available revo nozzles, supported with the 60w heater. They should start shipping in February. Yes... its expensive. But looking at the revos I think it's worth it

[@MandicReally]

Thank you. I am aware of the Revo Panda, I even have one on hand. However to my knowledge it is only for the P1 series as of now. I should have the final release version on the way from Biqu currently. Look out for an "Ultimate P1S" build. 😉

[@TheFrozenOne92]

@@MandicReally well... they offer a x1 version now aswell 😉 But I doubt, results will differ much from both versions

[@HardwareMaster]

Your bentobox seems to have a different bottom portion with better directing the air presumably. Do you have a link for that modified version?

[@MandicReally]

I remixed the original to my tastes. I don’t really know that it is any better, I just can’t leave anything alone. I don’t think my remix is worth posting though. The air guides are arguably a negative as you want the air to spread through the chamber and not focus (when the bed gets low it could act a bit like auxiliary cooling). I did it just to see if guiding the air would help reduce fan noise. No idea if it was successful.

[@chris993361]

I am waiting for my ali express hotend to get here, but my motivation was different. I could not get the obXidian hotend as it seems to constantly be out of stock, so with the cheap one, I am following a mod called chimera that will allow for the use of V6 nozzles without throwing a height error on the X1. With this, I will be able to throw my diamondback nozzle on there, and I am hoping to see some pretty impressive results from that. I had a diamondback nozzle on my last printer, and it allowed me to reduce print temperatures of all my materials drastically. With the speed of the motion system in the X1, I am hoping that a diamondback on it will be pretty impressive.

[@emiljohansson25]

Great video, man. Any other like, general weirdness with the Aliexpress hotend? Otherwise that seems like quite the killer deal. Also, RIP contrast and saturation at 24:11

[@MandicReally]

I've already killed the nozzle on the AE one. That "Hardened steel" isn't very hard. 800g of Glow in the Dark filament and it is already almost shot. Besides that it worked fine and for the price is a solid option.

[@thespectator2976]

i can say this. The filters works like "so so". i have a air quality meter in the room and it hits rock bottom when it runs. So This mod is good i tell u guys.

[@MandicReally]

I really wanted to do a full air quality test inside the chamber (and around the machine) before and after, but I just couldn't put this project off any longer.

[@thespectator2976]

i did my test outside with the filter with comes with my printer. and it told me bad news. But we all know that printers does leave bit of harmfull stuff @@MandicReally

[@thespectator2976]

My test was done by a external sensor. and that gave me a red flag,. but anyhow. im sorry my english is bad. :)

[@Vapeti2.0]

what are those pieces under the bed of your voron 2.4?

[@MandicReally]

The "Kinematic Mount" setup. It is a design that decouples the bed from the frame to allow for it to shrink and grow under temperature changes. The goal is to prevent it from warping under high temperature swings and keep it flatter. Here is the Github: github.com/tanaes/whopping_Voron_mods/tree/main/kinematic_bed And an Affiliate Link to Parts on West3D: collabs.shop/ek5dna

[@happytrails1963]

Bambu is so good!

[@mjcontos1119]

Good morning from the CRIT reservation

[@MandicReally]

Good morning and welcome!

[@macdox69]

I looked at the BEN2C duct a few months back but never took the plunge as like you noted, various different reviews suggested the results didn't seem substantially better. I notice on the BEN2C web site it now says to get improved overhang results they suggest printing 20-25 degrees hotter.

[@thomassmith9059]

They charge a pretty hefty price for the BEN2C. There is a similar one from FYSETC with only 3 nozzles for $6.29 MFJ nylon and all. I have one coming with my latest order, we'll see how good it is.

[@kinoadell2922]

Is it very cold where you print? I live in a warmer area, the only mod I have made to my X1P is a towel over the top glass and reach more than 55 degrees easily on winter.

[@MandicReally]

I live in the Northeast but the studio is climate controlled to 67-69F (around 20C). My machine is also a very early kickstarter unit. Bambu has changed numerous things through production of these machines. I wouldn’t be surprised if the thermistor for the chamber temp or how it reads wasn’t one. They advertised it as a “60C chamber” originally but I’ve never heard of anyone hitting that without an added heater. Maybe they changed sensors to get a better reading? No idea.

[@Taylolol]

Where can I find the bento box gasket model?

[@beefcafe8904]

What kind of foil-backed insulation did you use on the sides?

[@gnrdst1036]

I'm happy to see that enclosure seal parts Gonna try it on my p1sc

[@FuttFel]

Do the filters do anything for ASA and ABS? With resin, you can filter out odors but the VOCs still remain, so for that charcoal filters give you this false sense of security. I have a 10" duct with inline fan hooked up to my Creality K1 when printing ABS and one time, I forgot to turn on the internal exhaust fan on the K1 and not even 30 mins later, with the machine closed off, top lid taped shut and so on.. I was having issues with my nose, I could feel it slowly getting stuffy. It happened very fast, which tells me venting a machine as opposed to just recirculating the air through a filter that needs replacement often is the way to go. I also keep the exhaust vent on at all times when resin printing, but sadly have to live with some residual fumes and IPA vapors when post-processing the prints later. Can't get away from it when living in a fairly small flat..

[@MandicReally]

It DOES but I don't have personally produced data to back that up. I wanted to run an air quality tests in & out of the chamber to demonstrate this but I simply don't have the time for that right now. The Nevermore team has a bit of a write up about it on their github: github.com/nevermore3d/Nevermore_Micro?tab=readme-ov-file#why-the-nevermore

[@FuttFel]

@MandicReally Definitely better than expected. Seems to make sense for spaces where you can't easily vent to the outside. Since I have my printers by a window I just flick a button to start an inline fan hooked up to the PVC duct at the rear of my printer. I find that as soon as I start it, any smells I can feel at the gaps on my printer immediately disappear. I want to avoid having to get more consumables than what is necessary. Maybe Vorons should be sold with the option to include an acrylic rear or side panel with a 10" hole already cut.

[@MandicReally]

@@FuttFel The default Voron configuration includes a vent fan that exits out the back and filters through Charcoal as it does so. The Nevermore is an add-on. The problem is the same as I mentioned in this video, venting externally reduces chamber temperature. An undesirable situation on Vorons & on the Bambu (in my use case). Filtering fully internally both cleans the air but also maintains temperatures. The consumable factor is rather unfortunate but luckily the Charcoal isn't expensive.

[@FuttFel]

@MandicReally Ohh. I had no idea since I've never seen that in the Trident videos I've watched. Yes that makes sense, altho I've been able to print ABS without too much trouble. I printed all parts for my Voron 0.2 on my Creality K1 with the rear exhaust running at all times. The chamber never got terribly hot, so maybe some part strength was lost along the way. Hard to say really. My 0.2 is trucking along just fine.

[@oli4572]

Bentobox is only worth in a printer which is almost sealed. As long as the poop shoot is open, always poluted air will find it's way out. Esp when the Bambu chamber fan is much stronger compared to the Bentobox fans. Are the Bento Fans are really higher in flow? Bento will usually have no chance to filter a lot of air when the poop shoot is open. You can test that easily with smoke spray.

[@MandicReally]

It seems like you are missing a key detail. The BentoBox doesn’t create a negative pressure differential. The stock fan flows a claimed 92CFM but that is ALL air drawn out of the chamber and blown out. Thus creating a negative chamber pressure, so air is actively drawn into the chamber through any gaps in the frame, door, and poop chute. The BentoBox draws in air inside the chamber and recirculates it in the chamber. That doesn’t create a negative chamber pressure. So yes the Poop chute is open (as is the big gap at the door) but it isn’t actively drawing air in through those gaps. It ain’t a sealed box, you’ll get air mixing, but the BentoBox is absolutely reducing how much that happens.

[@oli4572]

I got you, but I tested the Bentobox with chamber fan "off" by myself and still saw the testsmoke coming out of the houseing, especially at the back of the printer and the poop shoot. Result was not so bad as I saw it with the Nevermore Filter, which I also tested a couple of months ago. That's why I ask which fans you use. Maybe worth a follow up video and a test of the Bento with smoke? Esp. fine particals are tricky and not to underestimate. Nevermore claims in their Wiki, that the flow dynamic concept only works in a good sealed chamber, which a voron has, but unfortunately a bambulab does not. Therefor I started to place my X1 in a well ventilated room with no human traffic, while printing risky filament. I also use an Air quality monitor in my Home Assistant, to track the Vocs and fine particles. From my experience it is really hard to get this under control and clean. For sure a Bentobox is better the nothing. Interesting and important topic this is.

[@_IanOfEarth]

Hey @MandicReally, just got these E3D's in from the restock. How do I tell Bambu Studio so that I can use the higher flow rates?

[@MandicReally]

Head to your filament profile (The little pencil/pad icon next to the filament.). At the bottom of the first page in that menu there is "Max Volumetric Speed", that is the figure you need to change. As for what value to put in there, I cannot tell you that. It will vary for every filament and depend on your own testing on your own machine. This is part of why providing profiles for things like this is difficult, most materials vary at least a little bit.

[@_IanOfEarth]

@@MandicReally thanks for that detail, do you have a communication channel with Bambu to request these just be added to the nozzle menu?

[@swifticy117]

Do you have ams for you x1carbon, if so do those filaments with cardboard spools work fine?

[@MandicReally]

I primarily print out of the AMS and have the entire time. Cardboard spools work fine in there. Perfect? Not always, but generally fine. I primarily use Polymaker filament which almost exclusively comes on Cardboard and the VAST majority of that 2,000 hours has been with those spools. There are easy 3d printable lips that you can put on the spools that help to keep them from slipping on the rollers in the AMS. That helps with some of the minor issues.

[@hicamajig]

Thanks for the video, just what I was looking for!

[@JacksMacintosh]

I’m looking to do some flow calibration of my own and I’m curious about that racetrack you used. You say it’s from E3D but I’ve been googling and can’t seem to find it anywhere. Would you mind sharing some more info on it/where to find it?

[@MandicReally]

Certainly, the model is on E3D's Printables page: www.printables.com/model/281016-flow-rate-test-geometry

[@JacksMacintosh]

@@MandicReally awesome, thanks man!

[@TalkingSasquach]

Great video! I've got a video on some really unique printing techniques using Bambu Slicer, there's a lot of stuff that a lot of people don't know!

[@jayfc3]

Nice vid. I am interested in trying the tpu gasket on my bento, couldn't find the link on your Thangs page. Did I just miss it? Thanks for doing these videos.

[@MandicReally]

I really have no idea if it is doing anything, but I've posted it to Thangs for those who want it!

[@JakeHolder]

Can you tell me of a perfect/ultimate machine?

[@retsam2010]

I need to get that different racetrack test file!

[@MandicReally]

Here is the original: www.printables.com/model/281016-flow-rate-test-geometry I only tweaked it by scaling it to match the OrcaSlicer flowrate test, then exported the STL from the slicer for future use. I don't want to repost it as a Remix as it was such a nothing change to it.

[@retsam2010]

@@MandicReally it looks so much better than the stock one I might just replace it in the orca files lol.

[@dannelalbert7111]

Where can I find that "racetrack" e3d model for flow rate?