Ultimate Guide to Seam Allowances: The Best Widths For Any Sewing Pattern

[@juadonna]

Hello, Johanna! Greetings from Florida. I appreciate you explaining the value of varied seam allowances when dealing with different types of seams Makes perfect sense. My mother began my sewing lessons when I was in the 6th yea of primary school. In my 8th year of school, the sewing and cooking lessons started for girls. I was so proud to be able to wear a dress that I had made to the first day of class. ( The boys had wood shop and metals shop.) I recently found a packet of hand sewing needles, with my name on them, 59 years later! I used to sew quite often, but got out of the habit at some point. The seam allowances were always 5/8" , since I only used commercial patterns. I did a little bit of quilting for a while. Boy, going down to 1/4" was quite a shock! Recently, in March, made some masks for my small family. Well, the fabric bug bit me again! Recently finished my first PDF pattern, an after surgery bed jacket. I did a little grading between sizes, ripped a couple of seams, etc, but it looks pretty good! And it will only be seen by myself and my dear husband. I just received some beautiful rayon batik from Indobatiks.com. So looking forward to sewing these beautiful fabrics up!! Going through some of your past videos now, as well as some by other very talented sewists. Thank you for taking the time to help us olders shake off the dust from our skills and learn a few new tricks! Stay safe and take care.

[@michaelduke4500]

Finally, someone that can actually explain the difference in seam allowances. I am not a dressmaker or clothing designer, but more of a heavy weight canvas and leather guy. We usually use 1/2" (0.0127 meters) for those items, but great to know why you would change a seam allowance in clothing.

[@helenparker1870]

It is recommended to remove seam allowances before making fitting adjustments, so I prefer patterns without seam allowances. I have two ways to add seam allowances to patterns: Sometimes I mark seam allowances around the patterns on the fabric using a Prym parallel tracing wheel, where one wheel runs along the edge of the fabric and the second adjustable chalk wheel marks the seam allowance. Burda used to make a similar wheel. But mostly I directly cut the seam allowance using an old style straight handled Olfa rotary cutter with an adjustable guide arm, which screws in to a hole in the rotary handle. I cut strips of paper to match the seam allowances I have cut, as setting the guide arm can be slightly variable. I then match these strips with the needle position and seam guide on the sewing machine. If I want to remove seam allowances quickly I use an adjustable Clover double tracing wheel, which quickly marks the seam allowances on the pattern paper. If you can get full pdf patterns you can take them into vector software such as Adobe Illustrator to automatically offset shapes to add or remove seam allowances. I have used my Silhouette Cameo die cutter and Silhouette Studio software to draw out seam lines and pattern markings and then cut the seam allowances on A3 paper, which is much more accurate than when I cut out the patterns with a rotary cutter or scissors. I do not cut fabric using the electronic die cutter as it sometimes stretches when removing it from the cutting mat. I can save the files in an svg format to import into my embroidery machine software, so that I can accurately place embroidery designs on collars, cuffs, pockets, etc.

[@anubis33]

Refreshing to hear you talk about appropriate seams widths. The one width fits all doesn’t make for good finishing. Most patterns call for trimming so I’ve always questioned why have so much in the first place? Probably to compensate for the basic hobbyists. Personally I like to pink the seams down especially on curves as it retains strength without bulk. The overlocker technique you describe is what I’ve adopted some years ago. On my Ovation I can overlock and add a secure stitch on the sewing line in one go. But I baste first. Just an edit note the video repeats the zip section after the first at 11 mins.

[@Thelaststitch]

I agree with your assessment, that the only reason for this one width fits "all" is to keep it simple, bit it does lead to worse result in the long run! And thank you for pointing out the editing glitch, I'm travelling so I did this video a bit quick 😊

[@gailhardock1206]

Thank you for the video. I have often wanted to adjust my seam allowances when cutting a pattern out but felt that I was going outside the allowed boundaries of sewing. Your video has opened up my thoughts on that and I will now adjust my seam allowances without any guilt - thank you.

[@wendyhutchins945]

When I was a young girl and learning to sew, I was puzzled as to why everything had a 5/8" seam allowance that would then have to be cut off. It seemed wasteful to me at the time and still does. As I got older, I just did what seemed right to me. Thanks for validating these ideas! I love your channel, Johanna! :)

[@Thelaststitch]

100% It does not make much sense, unless you need to have extra width for alterations, but it still not needed for areas such as the neckline. Happy to hear that I'm not alone in question this message :-)

[@michellepark778]

5/8" | 15 mm seam allowance great when sewing with French seams as we did prior to domestic overlockers/ sergers being common. Many patterns have no seam allowance so you need to ass your own. I tend to use 3/8" | 10mm

[@kathringopalpreetkaur4925]

Your videos are really good and I am enjoying to watch them. I never came across the 1.5cm seam allowance as a regular width in the industry, it is more like 1/0,75/0,5 cm depending on what kind of seam (hem is different), but for being in between 2 sizes it totally makes sense. Thank you for your videos :)

[@desaharmert1853]

Great video again.I mostly sew knits with my serger ,so I really use the 0.7 mm setting.Works great for me.Lately I've been sewing pillow cases out of woven fabrics.This was one situation where I let the zipper tape width match with the seam allowance.As you mentioned,it was super easy to sew in those zippers.

[@suewalsh4216]

So glad to have found your channel. Powering through all you previous videos now. Love from Sue in Perth, Western Australia ❤🇭🇲

[@lindadinnocenzo4857]

Great video! I do like the 5/8” seam when making French seams. Or trying to fit something at the sides as you said. I agree with you that it is not rational to have the same seam size everywhere but the sewing industry probably did it to standardize the seam allowance back in the day. Thank you for your videos! Wonderful as always!

[@2847Katie]

I would very much like to see you reduce a seam allowance on a commercial pattern that already has the 5/8 allowance included.

[@TheCynedd]

You know I love your videos, Johanna so I do not have to repeat myself🙂 I so agree with your suggestions for adjusting seam allowances from patterns to fit the purposes of the pattern piece. One thing I might suggest you include in videos is, if you are not using a serger/overlocker is the use of pinking shears instead of clipping when something has to be turned inside out. We all own pinking shears but sometimes forget to use them. Great video, as always. I am looking forward to your next book on sewing jeans! 😀👍

[@AtelierDBurgoyne]

Thanks for mentioning the use of pinking shears. I am new to sewing and am bemused that no pattern instructions I have seen mentions it.

[@Thelaststitch]

Thank you so much! That's a great topic suggestion!

[@india239]

I tend to use the wider seam allowance and trim it down. Personally I am glad that now some Burda patterns are now more often coming with seam allowance already added. I use a plastic sewing gage which kind of looks like a cross and like your metal tool has different widths. I also use French curves

[@AtelierDBurgoyne]

Bonjour du Canada! Hello from Canada! This is a most important topic and thank you for sharing your thoughts. I am a beginner but everything I have made called for 15 mm sewing allowances on patterns. A jacket I am doing right now instruct to use 15 mm and then grade the seams for the facing and the collar. Maybe it is done to minimize the errors from sewists when using the sewing machine? Btw, congrats on your metric and inch conversions! May I suggest you do not say the inch equivalent and let the viewer convert if they need to? That way, you can concentrate on what you have to say only. Others commentors have mentioned pinking shears. Do you ever use them and if so when? Daniel

[@jillpohren4801]

Thanks for this video, it’s an important topic for those of us struggling with proper fit. How do you adjust for fit if using a commercial pattern that already included the seam allowance and you want to use different SAs for different parts of the garment? Also please can you tell us the maker of your seam gauge? Thank you!!

[@guldenwelter4844]

Thank you very much, very helpful video. Do you measure width of zippers and add half of the measurements as seam allowances?

[@Thelaststitch]

If I want to hide the teeth I calculate the entire width, and if not I just measure the tape

[@Sewreal2037]

Thank you so much. I have often changed seams. I really enjoy your videos. They are always so very helpful.😍

[@Thelaststitch]

Thank you! Happy to hear I'm not alone in customising the seam allowances when needed!

[@hannahdickson5685]

You need a seam allowance guide it attaches to your scissors magnetically and you don't have to mark just use it go follow your pattern and cut with seam allowance!

[@Angela-un2tx]

😳😲😯 what about a rotary cutter would attach to that?!

[@slaveNo-4028]

WHAT!! WHAT IS THIS MAGIC, DEVILISH WITCHCRAFT!! I need one!

[@elayjayudny9741]

Wow, thanks for that - didn’t know they existed ❤

[@lynnew5619]

As a quilter of many years, I have been doing 1/4” seams all the time. I have always wondered why commercial patterns use such wide seam allowances. It wastes so much fabric & time trimming. So, I will be brave and use sensible seam allowances from here on in.

[@sandyheller5438]

I like 3/8 seam allowance. I like the idea of 5/8 on the side seams. Thank you.

[@victoriamartin8010]

Hey guys, I'm a beginner seamstress and the pattern I bought has a seam allowance marked on it. Just to clarify, do I cut and sew on the actual pattern or where the seam allowance is marked?

[@lapalma1928]

Very helpful video, thank you!! Do you know where one might purchase a seam allowance guide like the one you prefer? I could not find one in centimeters on Amazon. I prefer measuring in centimeters. I find it easier, which helps me to be more precise in my measurements. Thank you very much!

[@lizbethdavern53]

narrow seam allowances! so Bold! its "Mission Impossible" type boldness. you've encoureged me to go super narrow on the serged edges. ack! wish me luck! :-)

[@ljtilmon]

Hello, lady! Do you have any advice for sewing children's clothing?

[@heideray7343]

Thank you for another great video! I save all your videos

[@Thelaststitch]

Aww, thank you 😊 That makes so happy to hear!

[@rebeccaestrada744]

Thankyou for sharing this information with us. I needed this info

[@Thelaststitch]

Happy to hear you found it useful! I felt that this was a topic that we don't talk about enough 😊

[@rebeccaestrada744]

Yes I think I'll listen again

[@susankidd9963]

Please can you tell me do you alter the seam allowance on the pattern before cutting it out

[@Thelaststitch]

I usually use tracing paper, so that I don't have to cut away the away the actual tissue paper

[@Thelaststitch]

I usually use tracing paper, so that I don't have to cut away the away the actual tissue paper

[@bonito34]

In Germany we have a great tool to cut the perfect seam allowances, the matter how wide y need them. Its for scissors and for cutting wheels. For me its just the equality that matters. Watch a video. Its called " Einfach Karl". We love it

[@tommyv1477]

What seam allowance would you use for body con dresses

[@sewingconfidential]

I have the little metal seam allowance guide, it has really come to use quite often I must say. I also use it to iron my hem allowance because I always wait for the garment to be finished before I decide which hem allowance I will use.

[@AtelierDBurgoyne]

Where can I find this little tool? I cannot seem to find one like that. Thanks!

[@teslaandhumanity7383]

Fab video Johanna thanks I might try a Burda pattern now .

[@india239]

Jules Farmer I’m going through the tedious process of using a Butda pattern. But I like it so much. Burda 6911

[@teslaandhumanity7383]

India M oh just checked it out is it a knit with twist at bust , lovely 😊

[@Thelaststitch]

The 6911 is amazing!

[@india239]

Jules Farmer it took me quite a while to work out how the twist worked

[@teslaandhumanity7383]

India M I struggle with pattern instructions always have but over time I’ve got better xx

[@YvonneBerden]

Can someone explain to me where and how to find the 0,6 mm seamallowance on an overlocker/serger? I recently was given on older Husqvarna Huskylock. On my machine the smallest seamallowance printed on the machine is 3/8 inch or 10mm. How do I go about sewing 0,6 mm correctly, as used for knits.

[@Aurora-uh9nk]

Thank you 🙏. What an important topic ❤️

[@KouKatsumi]

Could you put somewhere the spelling of Swedish names, please. I am an english speaker in Sweden and have such a hard time fining tools and materials often.

[@laurencoll7015]

It’s not you ! The imperial system is awful ! I wish the US would hop on board the metric system train! I’ve lived in the US my entire life and I still don’t understand it ! Guess I better figure it out if I want to get better at sewing 😂 I do really love your videos ! You seem very knowledgeable and very precise and particular. When it comes to my work I strive for perfection and I like that it seems you value that as well!

[@sewrenity_now]

3/8 inch for me! I have to desperately want a pattern if it comes with 5/8" s.a. Trimming and grading is too wasteful of fabric and time for me. Especially when the results are inferior IMHO.

[@myplaylist7007]

.5 - .6 inches = Industry standard !!!

[@poetmaggie1]

Metric or inches are unimportant, I learned pattern drafting in metric. Drafting Tools these days have both on them.