Ultrasonic Cleaners On Bike Parts - The Good & The Bad!!

In this video, I look at ultrasonic cleaners, and what they’re like to use on road bike components. We’ll look at how you use one, how much they cost, and if there are any downsides to using one and what can and does go wrong!
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Website Links, Affiliate links, and or products/tools in this video
Some product links are affiliate links, which means if you buy something, I’ll receive a small commission.
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Creworks Ultrasonic Cleaners: (Direct)
➡️ www.creworkseq...
➡️ 5% Discount Code💰: RIBBLE
*Creworks Ultrasonic Cleaners: (Amazon)*:
3 Litre Version - amzn.to/44RpG6f
6 Litre Version - amzn.to/45Nx2Jm
Digital Version - amzn.to/45I8pNE
10 Litre - Mechanical Dials - 240 Ultrasonic - amzn.to/3sWoIZq
#ultrasonic
#cleaner
#degreaser
#ultrasoniccleaner
#bikerepair
#bikemaintenance
#roadbike
#cycling
#cyclinglife
#degreaser
#bikecleaning
Where to buy:
Amazon - £90
www.amazon.co....
Cleaning Solution:
Viro-sol Citrus Based Cleaner - £14 for 5 litres
www.ebay.co.uk...

[@Synonomous]

Great video. I just bought the same model but the upgraded version with a 'gentle' mode. Good tips about painted parts. I've seen people using a ziploc bag with solution (even dish soap and water) in it with plain water in the tank to keep the muck in the baggie. Virosol isn't available 'ere in Canada or at least I can't find it. Ultrasonic solution is pricey for some reason. Trendy I guess. Thanks for the video! Cheers from across the pond.

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

Hi Synonomous, Glad you liked it, and thanks for watching. I'm in the process of making a new video where I'll be trying out a new machine, and testing different cleaning techniques. I'll be trying out the Ziploc technique too. Watch this space.

[@Synonomous]

Well I've since received my machine and use the baggy technique to keep the tank clean and it works incredible. I just used a citrus degreaser in it with the water. The results on a 20-year-old front derailleur were incredible. It looks brand new and it didn't even damage the sticker that was on it for the quality control. It also decreased a brand new chain and a 20-year-old rear cassette that I couldn't get in the back with brushes or anything. Just magnificent. And the tank is completely unstained and I don't have to clean it out. I like this baggy technique. I preheat the water on the stove and then I don't have to let the heating element in the unit do any work and away we go. Now I find myself looking around the shop for rusty and dirty bits to throw in there. I've become a fanatic. Cheers!

[@groovy_bear]

I'm pretty sure that removing anodizing or paint on aluminium parts has not to do with the ultrasonic cleaner but with the chemical composition of the solvant you are using. Typically, caustic soda tend to do this kind of damage on aluminium parts. Bare steel parts are not negatively impacted by such products. If you want to carefully clean you anodized parts just use black soap! It shouldn't come off damaged at all and should be clean if you let it long enough (could be an hour or more).

[@Galois32]

Yeah I agree. Citric acid based like he used is pretty aggressive.

[@boringol]

Have the same Ultrasonic cleaner as shown in vid but mine packed up so have had to buy a replacement. Went for one with knobs on this time. Use mine mainly on chains to prep for the wax/ptfe lube mix in the slow cooker but definitely a great asset in the workshop.

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

Hi Nigel, Interesting you went for the one with knobs. Do you find that version to be better? If I'm honest, it does feel like those 'click' buttons could pack up over time.

[@boringol]

@@ribblevalleycyclist Think i am just old fashioned lol. The push button you have to keep pressing until you reach the desired temp/time. With the knob it is one quick turn.

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

Completely agree with you, Nigel. My car radio has steering wheel volume buttons, but I still reach over and turn the knob!!!!!

[@maxsolo2652]

1. How do you remove the wax/ptfe lube mix off the chain to clean it and relube again? 2. Why don't you use the ultrasonic bath to push the wax/ptfe lube into the chain instead of using the slow-cooker? Would it make any difference? I tried to wax my chain using an old electric slow-cooker and it worked great. Now I'm thinking about getting an ultrasonic machine to clean the chain, but also maybe to wax. Would putting the chain in a smaller plastic container with a lid and wax inside it, and then putting the container in waster-filled supersonic-machine actually work? I just want to have a separate plastic container for waxing.

[@bonn1771]

thank you for doing this got mine just for cleaning the chain as i am going to be waxing the chain but not with the cleaner

[@sepg5084]

I only use it for bike chains. Cassettes and chainrings are easy enough to clean with a brush

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

Same here nowadays, to be honest.

[@lifescansdarkly]

Thank you for this demonstration, this was perfect! I'm looking at a 10L as they're not much more expensive than the 3L models.

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

Hi Daniel, Glad it was helpful. Agreed, there isn't a great deal in it. Also, the bigger ones have a drainage tap, which is a massive benefit. Thanks for watching. Jon

[@podmi4271]

hi, do you fit there 12 cassete? I thinking about buying one, but idk the dimensions

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

I’ve just received a 10 litre machine with drainage that I’ll be reviewing soon. Watch this space 👍

[@manchando1]

thank you for your video, was great...also your final tips with paint or some expensive things, Sr what amount of liters of cleaner capacity you think can clean a 50T cassette?

[@NelankaPerera]

I have a 6L one that is just about big enough for an 11-34. Didn’t know you could use it to push wax. I use the cleaner and then solvents before using a croc pot for my chain waxing. The croc pot was like $20 and you want a smaller one since you don’t want a giant amount of wax. On the other hand you want a larger ultrasonic cleaner, not spend twice for a small one. Nice video. Can you follow up with other things you shouldn’t put in the cleaner like mechs and bearings and such?

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

Hi Nelanka, Glad you liked it. The biggest cassette I actively use is 30, so the 3L works, but only just!! That's the exact reason I've never used it for waxing, because it'd take a lot of wax, and then a lot of cleaning afterwards. Oh, and then I'd need to store the wax...... too much hassle. I've got a few friends that use a croc pot, maybe I'll do a video of cleaning in ultrasonic, and waxing in a separate pot. Thanks for watching. Jon

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

Your wish is granted, Nelanka. Check back in a few hours!!

[@maxsolo2652]

@@ribblevalleycyclist Hi. What about using an extra bowl for the ultrasonic-machine just for waxing, which will never have to be cleaned? Is there an option to buy this extra bowl?

[@richardf6932]

Thanks for the video. I wonder if you can put the oil back on the chain by dipping it in oil and let it drain out overnight (like hanging laundry). When the chain was first assembled, the metal parts were not coated and had to be coated after assembly...

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

Hi Richard, Glad you liked the video. I too have considered the submerge and drain idea, but I imagine it’ll work out very expensive and put too much oil in the chain. I’ve also considered putting the chain in a small bag overnight with a mix of oil an WD40. I’m a subscriber the ’Too much is a bad thing’ club! Also, I run Dura Ace chains that have hollow pins. Because of this, the oil can pool in them, and then get flung out all over the bike with centrifugal force. A lot of ‘Anti Ultrasonics’ talk about getting oil back in the chain, but if I’m honest, I don’t really see a problem. From my experience, by it’s very nature, oil does a fantastic job of getting absolutely everywhere without my help! I just oil the individual rollers the night before, and then run it through an oily rag the next morning. Thanks for watching! Jon

[@Tntdruid]

You can put the chain in a bag whit decrease too.

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

Hi, You should watch my latest video on this, as I tried just that: kzbin.info/www/bejne/ap_HeKOIi6hleLc

[@FontediCalore]

They sell grease that will become liquid when heated. Put it into a tin with the chain, heat it up, grease goes in, then let it cool down, grease will stay inside, wipe it clean from the outside. That is one way, not the best way to deal with chains (oil is) but it will replace grease from the inside of the chain.

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

Interesting, FontediCalore.... I'll look into that. Got another ultrasonic video coming up, so may be of use.

[@PSHARPE1]

Re the stripping of the anodizing/painted sections of metal parts would you assume it's the Virosol or the concentration being used?

[@iansellers1251]

Would also be interested to know if it's the degreaser / hot water causing the damage . Does just hot soapy water in a Ultrasonic Cleaner still do it?

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

Hi Phill & Ian, The cleaners tank claims 3 litres, but in reality, I’m using 2 litres of hot (60°c) tap water. I’m using roughly 100ml of Virosol in the water….. so it’s a weak mix. I mix Virosol up to this consistency regularly, and use it as a general bike cleaner. Also, I regularly use Virosol neat on painted surfaces….. albeit very briefly (Tar spot, for example). I therefore think that it is highly unlikely that the Virosol is the primary cause of the paint stripping. Also, Virosol recommends a 50:1 to 100:1 dilution for general cleaning. I suspect the most likely cause is the surface of the paint is damaged/flaked, and this is where the shipping is coming from. The ultrasonic cleaner is getting under the damaged paint, and ripping it off. I would not be surprised if the same happened in plain water. Saying that though, there is a possibility that the Virosol is playing a small part I’ve never used the tank with anything other than Virosol, because the components I’m cleaning are usually very greasy. I do however know that it’s possible to use them with just water. I hope this helps. Thanks for watching, Jon

[@PSHARPE1]

@@ribblevalleycyclist love the vids, I you're right if paint is damaged there's higher potential for it flaking off, but the fading of paint I'm just thinking it's the fact on stuff like calipers etc it's probably just bare paint and no clear coat and the extended time in Virosol even at 20:1 as you have it. A quick clean and clean water rinse at 20:1 with a detailing brush on said painted components minimising product contact time I think would be less harmful to the finish. Have you tried water with fairy liquid?

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

Hi Phill, Glad you're liking them. Hope to get a couple more out before Santa gets here! Never used Fairy. It's just that I've always had something more suitable to hand...... I'm one for stocking up on stuff. Also, I recall someone saying once that it's got stuff like ammonia in it, so it shouldn't be used to wash the car...... which is probably why I've never used it....... but I'll happily use 50:1 Virosol 🤔🤣

[@JBR.1974]

Great video, so thanks for taking the time. Out of interest, is the Virosol a good substitute for the Muc Off Bio Drivetrain cleaner...or do they do two different things really. Also, for the mixture you made up...would that be a single use thing or could it potentially be bottled for use again( aabit like when cleaning a chain in a jar) Thanks in advance

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

Hi Jon, Thanks, glad you found it useful. Virosol Vs Muc-Off Bio Drivetrain - To be honest, I use both. Virosol is a very versatile product that plays its part in most bike cleans. I use it neat on very soiled/greasy metal, I use it in a 50:1 mix as stronger alternative to Muc-Off Nano Tech, and I use it in the ultrasonic cleaner. However, if I just want a quick and easy product to grab when giving the bike the once over, I'll use Muc-Off Bio Drivetrain. Re-use a mix - I've considered it...... maybe put it through a coffee filter to get the snot out! To be honest though, I only use about 100ml of Virosol per mix...... which works out to be penny's. Virosol is a fantastic product, if you're not using it, you should give it a go. It's the one product I make sure I never run out of. Thanks, Jon

[@Falko99]

Great video. What kind of gloves are you using?

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

Hi, They’re just Muc-Off Mechanics Gloves: muc-off.com/products/mechanics-gloves You can also pick up similar unbranded gloves for about half the price. Thanks for watching. Jon

[@Falko99]

@@ribblevalleycyclist thank you

[@terrynye7034]

Hi I've just got one. But a did some research and apparently if you put anodised parts in but run them through without the heat setting it doesn't strip the colour. I am playing around with heat/running ratio. Thanks for the advice about the angles of the parts so the grease runs off. As for original grease coating on chains surely after getting dirty, being cleaned etc etc that coating would diminish anyway. 🤔 Thankyou for the informative video

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

Hi Terry, interesting fact about the anodising thing, thanks for that. Will keep that in mind. Yeah, I’d agree, the manufacturing grease will come off with the use/cleaning cycles. Thanks, Jon

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

Hi @terrynye7034, how did you get on with the heat settings to prevent colour being stripped? Thanks, Jon

[@andrewbuurman5407]

Hi. I am concerned about the cleaning solution. Any idea how bad it is? Is there are a greener choice?

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

Hi Andrew. Your question is very well timed. I'm in the process of making a new video where I'll be trying out a new machine, and testing different cleaning techniques. Watch this space.

[@bryancaluwe1920]

Do you think it will take the rust off of a chain?

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

Some of it, but it depends how bad it is. If a chain is very rusty, then you're better off just replacing it.

[@bennp2000]

Do you use that degreaser as a general solution for washing the frame? I started with Muc Off but swiftly moved to using Fenwick's in its concentrated form for chains (in a chain tool) and diluted in the Muc Off bottle for general use but at £15/l I've been looking for other solutions. PS - I'm enjoying the videos (thanks). I'd be interested if you have thoughts on whether or not a compressor is something useful (and which) after making ZERO headway with a recent set of GP5000 which was fixed in seconds using a compressor!

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

Hi Paul, Sorry for the late reply…. life is getting in the way at the moment!!! Viro-Sol - Very good question. In short, yes I do, but carefully. I actually add it with a foam cleaner, roughly 100/1 dilute ratio. I’m currently using Muc-Off foam cleaner, because I had a load of their concentrate to use up, so this means I’ve got about 6 bottles to get through. However, I’m becoming increasingly dissatisfied with other Muc-Off products (primarily lubricants), so will be phasing them out. I’ve already started to introduce Fenwicks, and will giving their cleaner another try soon. Compressor…… Another very good question. Funny you should ask, I did a video a while back about my most used tools. The compressor was at number 2 on the list. You can check it out here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/eqmzhaN8jLGtrJI The one I have is in the video description. I’ve considered doing a video solely on the subject, but I’ll need to borrow a tank inflator to make a comparison. Thanks for watching 👍 Jon

[@bennp2000]

@@ribblevalleycyclist thanks for the response. Funny you should say that regarding MO lubricants as I've just had enough. Their wet lube seems ok but the dry seems abysmal. I've just applied Finish Line's wax and that actually seems pretty good (if a bit messy when applying it at the current temperatures).

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

Hi Paul, I tried the MO dry once, no matter how much I used, the bike squeaked!!! I find the wet works well, but it dries into a nasty paste that is a nightmare to get off. I'm currently trying Fenwicks All Conditions Chain Lube, seems good so far.

[@bennp2000]

@@ribblevalleycyclist a friend used Finish Line's wet lube for All Points North and gave it a glowing review (didn't need to reapply!). I'll stick with the wax lube for a while and see. It's nice and quiet but it's starting to look pretty dirty after maybe 200 dry miles.

[@rideshinybikes8909]

Cold water and screwfix water soluble heavy duty degreaser……safe for anodised parts 👍

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

Thanks for the tip, will look into that Screwfix product 👍

[@JustYourAvarageJoe]

Stripping paint off is typically using the wrong cleaning solvent for the application

[@fabianbinder3681]

Stripping the paint is an extra: weight saving!

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

Good point 🤣

[@legin3753]

hi i just got 6l cleaner and when u drop in chain u can see water moving around mine does def not do that is it degreaser that makes it do that i used just water did i buy a broke one 🤔🙄

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

Hi LEGIN, Toi be honest, I've never used mine without a cleaning agent too. If you're cleaning heavily soiled and greasy items, then you'll need to add something similar to what I use in my video. Saying that though, you should see vibration on the surface of the water, and the machine will make a very load buzz. Hope you get it sorted, please keep us posted. Thanks, Jon

[@legin3753]

@@ribblevalleycyclist oh its loud as hell haa im gonna try a solution today and see ill let u know mite help others thanks for reply

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

@@legin3753 I use Clover Viro-Sol Citrus Heavy Duty Cleaner & Degreaser. It's easy to get online, and can also be used as either an all purpose cleaner (when diluted), or a powerful degreaser. To be honest, it's a workshop must-have.

[@MJ-tz8cq]

To reoil the Chain you could drop it in Chain oil and get out the air with vacuum 😂

[@icey_b1562]

My concern with these is hazardous waste handling. What do you do with the dirty solvent once your done? I work in aerospace and the hazardous waste we create in manufacturing is tightly controlled for good reason. Not just the really nasty stuff but simple things like used coolant from CNC machines.

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

Tip it on next door’s roses.

[@icey_b1562]

@@ribblevalleycyclist that’s pretty much how people used to get rid of engine oil back in the day.

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

All joking aside, the amount of chemical in the water is very little, it has about 100ml of citrus degreaser. Obviously, once used, it then has grease from the cleaned item. I don’t just pour it away, I run the fluid through a coffee filter paper inside a funnel. I then put that in the normal household waste. I feel it’s better to do that, then use large quantities of spray bottle cleaning product that is washed off with a garden hose.

[@maxsolo2652]

Try citric acid, baking soda and isopropanol.

[@chauffeurmarco]

I just bouhjt the same 3L Creworks but with Degas fonction. So far i'm not that impressed with it. Probably not always the right solution for different kind of parts.

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

Hi Marco, I'll be doing a new video on ultrasonic cleaning soon, but in the meantime, a few tips. Always do a degas run first, roughly 15 mins Heat is your friend, the hotter, the better. If you're just cleaning bare metal, don't be shy with the cleaning agent. Let us know how you get on. Thanks, Jon

[@Luslot1973]

You could have turned the cassette upside down instead?

[@waynehiggins899]

Hi all can anyone send me a link for a good ultrasonic cleaner please 😊

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

Hi Wayne, this is the one I'm using in my video. It's gone up a bit in price since I made this, but they all have. I've used it loads in the past two years, and it's a good machine. amzn.eu/d/39s0SFg

[@waynehiggins899]

Thank you quick question is 120 watts strong enough for bike chains etc

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

As I say, that is the exact machine I have and the one I use in the video. It’s more than powerful enough to clean a chain or a cassette in about 15 minutes. I’ve never felt it’s too weak for the job. If all you’re cleaning is bike parts, then it’s more than enough. The only reason I’d recommend a bigger one, is if you’re cleaning bigger parts. That one is wide enough to fit a 32 cassette

[@user-cx2bk6pm2f]

Mucoff... their opinion on chains is rubbish. They make horrible chain lube, see the ZFC test data. They either know nothing about chains or they don't give a shit.

[@alanngkwanyein]

Is not the ultrasonic cleaner who strip the paint is the degreaser that you used.

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

Hi, The cleaners tank claims 3 litres, but in reality, I’m using 2 litres of hot (60°c) tap water. I’m using roughly 100ml of Virosol in the water….. so it’s a weak mix. I mix Virosol up to this consistency regularly, and use it as a general bike cleaner. Also, I regularly use Virosol neat on painted surfaces….. albeit very briefly (Tar spot, for example). I therefore think that it is highly unlikely that the Virosol is the primary cause of the paint stripping. Also, Virosol recommends a 50:1 to 100:1 dilution for general cleaning. I suspect the most likely cause is the surface of the paint is damaged/flaked, and this is where the stripping is coming from. The ultrasonic cleaner is getting under the damaged paint, and ripping it off. I would not be surprised if the same happened in plain water. Saying that though, there is a possibility that the Virosol is playing a small part Thanks for watching, Jon

[@JohnSmith-ox7xc]

@@ribblevalleycyclist Your 100:2000 ratio mix is 1:20 which is stronger than the ratio for general cleaning.