Unboxing: Givenchy Haute Couture from Spring/Summer 1957

[@henryjjwilkinson]

Thank you for all the lovely comments! As a disclaimer, I really wanted to show this dress on a mannequin to convey the full effect of the silhouette, but unfortunately it was so tiny it wouldn't even go over the shoulders of any of them. Next time I will do my best to display it on a dress form 💙

[@johntucker9326]

Interesting, although l don't recall Babe Paley having been a petite woman in her voracious couture buying days.

[@parisbreakfast]

I beg to differ. Babe Paley was an extreme petite.

[@mpamap]

I’m a retired women’s wear designer. French-trained in Couture. The cotton tape you’re questioning serves several purposes as part of the under-structure placed where it is to hold the shape of the bodice. Thus preventing any strain on the seams balancing the weight. Also preventing any shafting of the stays caused by the movement in the grain of the fabric while in movement when wearing it. Too, it helps to maintain the illusion the bodice is made of a non-flexible materials such as stone. If you notice in photos of these types of garments the bodices look as if they have been sculpted. It isn’t the photo. The bodices look that way while wearing it. Most assume it the boning. Partly true. The other comes from the cotton type. Pending on the design, several rolls of them may be used at times. You must remember in couture there is always 1.27 cm ease in garments. Therefore it isn’t laying tight again the body but appears to. Note: The reason the seams are hand finished is for two reasons. At the time dress was made, the Overlock/Serger machine hadn’t come into being. Today it’s continued in some garments because the 3 threads used cause too much bulk on the edge of the fabric which will read on the finished side of the fabric. I hope this answers your question.

[@henryjjwilkinson]

This is brilliant information! Thank you so much for sharing. It's great to know the true use of the cotton tape.

[@jessiejoseph1093]

Thank you! Wow!

[@luciemedici]

Thank you

[@hellodenise9612]

You must have a youtube channel please!!

[@icemancometh8679]

As a retired women's wear designer, your expertise is extremely valuable here. Wasn't it funny when he hooked the hook? Now that's a tiny waist.

[@kathleenclark5877]

Henry: be a nerdy as you want to! It is so charming to watch someone like you realize your passion, in essence, in 3D! We need to be exposed to more pure joy in these dreadful times. Also to watch you discover the “architectural” elements of such a beautiful piece provides your viewers a chance to learn more about couture through your journey. So thank you for sharing! I am currently binge watching your videos. Bless!

[@tomweisser6203]

Stunning example of late 50's haute couture. I too geek out over fashion, and particularly French couture. The workmanship is phenomenal!

[@Cheryltwin2012]

I love yellow and black together in vintage clothing. It goes back to a dress I saw my mother wearing in a photo from the late 40's when she was a teenager. Her father (my grandfather) was a professional photographer and had access to color film. I'm not sure what the occasion was, but my mother was wearing a lovely yellow dress with black accents and belt on it. Of course, this was back when ladies wore gloves so she had on black opera gloves and was holding a small black clutch. My mother was such a stylish young woman. I have no illusions that she wore any kind of haute couture, but she loved clothes. I just wanted to share this with you because yellow and black together always remind me of that photo of my young, very beautiful mom.

[@sjinzaar]

I have never watched your videos before - just recently watched the Givenchy vs Balenziaga video. I was pleasantly surprised to see you are so young and I am blown away by your knowledge, also a little jealous that you are living your dream. I hope that you know that you are inspirational!

[@monalisamartinez2628]

Please keep making your videos! You’ve got phenomenal presence and you inspire one to want to learn more about couture. I enjoy the freshness you bring when talking about your passion 💕 And going to sound all old lady, but you’re such a sweet handsome articulate young man.... I enjoy seeing that as well 💕 Thank You for the videos...☺️

[@CathyHay]

What a treat! It's such a delight to see your excitement!

[@henryjjwilkinson]

Thank you so much Cathy. Your support has always meant a lot to me.

[@kikiplesha]

From one fashionista to another, it was a delight to watch the pure joy on your face as you so lovingly handled this precious garment. At times, as your white-gloved hands hovered over the dress, I swear you felt its superpowers radiating from the fabric!

[@dexterechiverri6631]

Your excitement at the beginning is palpable. You’re a veritable archeologist examining an extraordinary find.

[@monamarlowe]

I love Babe Paily! She was the one that said. YOU CAN'T BE TOO RICH OR TOO THIN. She was and to me, still is THE Epitome of New York chic.

[@AtelierLeonLeon]

Wonderful video and you re an amazing narrator. The cotton tape you wonder about under the bustline is used to keep the spiral bones close to the ribcage. Otherwise the buste and delts on the upperback will push them out. This little tape enables the boning and undergarment to follow the body, while the upper fabric can casually rest on it, for that effortless look. We use it a lot in the undergarment constructions to make sure the spiral bones follow the body. Just started following you, and looking forward to your posts. Greetings from a couturier in Amsterdam :-)

[@2615ParkAvenueAssociates]

The shear joy in your voice and face from your unboxing of this gown is touching and shows your passion which is priceless and delightful to witness.

[@nokesbob2256]

Just wow! How beautiful is this. Amazing piece of history. I am so glad that you and others are finding these and taking care of them. They are apart of history and sometimes seeing them in black and white on film, and then seeing them now, in color, really tells you how beautiful they truly are. Congratulations on owning another piece of fashion history!

[@julietteyork3721]

How do you not have a million followers? Your videos are wonderful.

[@michaelromero7982]

I am in partial lockdown here in Italy and literally just came upon your channel. It is very interesting and found myself quite engaged.

[@henryjjwilkinson]

Thank you, Michael. I'm pleased you enjoyed it!

[@whotelakecity2001]

Partial lockdown in Italy, what is that like?

[@Richie8a8y]

Can’t wait to watch more of you and your collection. Thank You!

[@ChristinaDior90]

Thank you Henry for sharing this amazing couture dress with us ! When I saw the cotton straps I didn’t think their purpose was for hanging loops but it makes a bit of sense to me, it also made me think of it as a way to keep the seams in place to the wearer’s body. I love taking a look inside any garment that gets to my hands and this is just great, thank you so much.

[@henryjjwilkinson]

I wondered that too! Thank you for this comment. So happy you liked seeing it in detail.

[@Shirinatra]

Such a beautiful dress! Thanks for sharing it with us. It's always great to see someone being so passionate about something. Really enjoyed it ✨

[@henryjjwilkinson]

Thank you so much! So glad you enjoyed it 💙

[@Evan1060]

How lovely. I don't think the average person ever owns a piece of clothing that is truly as well made as this dress is. It's exciting to see the interior structures. And the black bow on the front is such an elegant touch. And your excitement is so wonderful to watch. To have a passion, as you do, for fashion is refreshing. May we all have something in our lives that makes us sparkle in that way. Thanks for sharing!

[@lucaskovski9727]

Your channel is such a gem! I'm very happy to have found it, and now you have one more subscriber!

[@henryjjwilkinson]

Thank you Lucas!

[@Blima-us1ni]

so beautiful 💙 thanks for this amazing video!!! Pleasseee show us your whole collection, it'd be lovely 🥰🤩

[@johntucker9326]

So good to see a member of the younger generation so seriously connecting to couture history and so engagingly sharing his enthusiasm and growing knowledge. Compelling stuff, Mr. Wilkinson; awaiting more!

[@danettemannion9837]

I used to clean and preserve wedding gowns, in that I also worked with vintage wedding gown, I loved that job. I’m an admirer of designers and seamstress

[@nomebear]

A presentation that gives the viewer a new respect for haute couture dresses. This appears to be an icon of that time.

[@Truelle67]

love the crinoline incorporated directly in the dress. All of those construction methods screams 1950's I enjoy it so much! Thanks for sharing this beauty with us

[@henryjjwilkinson]

Me too! I knew there would be some skirt support but didn't know it would be a full crinoline. Thank you for watching!

[@sookibeulah9331]

It would be amazing to see this on a dress form so we could really see how the skirt ‘hangs’. Love watching your enthusiasm.

[@henryjjwilkinson]

Thank you 💙 I agree, I wanted to put it on a dress form but with the waist being a tiny 23" I didn't have one small enough unfortunately!

[@icemancometh8679]

@@henryjjwilkinson haven't you ever watch The Incredibles? Wasn't the hero costume maker Mona? You have to see that cartoon and how she could do anything - don't ask me to Darling I just can't do it I just can't do it or something like that - pretty funny. Make your own form!

[@vanhertenouterwear]

Thank you for sharing! So great to see such care and respect go into the construction of these garments. I wonder if we could ever convince the majority of contemporary consumers to prioritize the quality of garments, more as they did in the era of this couture.

[@mariak9727]

OMG! Sooo excited for you acquiring this priceless treasure!! I was born in the summer of 1957😜

[@SarahSmith-nr2wj]

I love the height of craftsmanship and the passion in couture, it is inspirational. Though my craft is painting, this genre is very exciting to me. The sculptural shapes of these dresses and the 50s early 60s colour palette used in them, alongside the cinematic lighting of many of the movies of that time is so refined and luminous one can't help but be transported. Just found your channel today. Please make more videos 🙂

[@jenh9361]

Your PASSION is a BREATH OF FRESH AIR... LOVE IT!!!

[@SuperMan-xy8ui]

1957 would have been significant because Babe Paley made the International Best-Dressed list the next year. Babe was one of Truman Capote's “Swans of Fifth Avenue”, he said her only flaw was that she was perfect.

[@isabellaminor7048]

That workmanship!

[@DannyJane.]

You don't "put on" this garment. You're LOADED into it! Lovely.

[@henryjjwilkinson]

😂

[@jamesallison4875]

Thanks, Henry. I’m fascinated by couture and the structure of these amazing artworks.Your enthusiasm is infectious and charming. More!

[@edwardianmystery]

Wow! This is absolutely stunning to have a look into this dress, your close ups are just so great to have! Lots of really good information to take in and possibly apply to modern garments!

[@henryjjwilkinson]

Definitely! There's so many techniques that I will use in my work too. So glad you enjoyed the video, and that it's been useful.

[@sensibilitypatterns]

I love this so much! The interiors of these gowns are always amazingly structural. The use of three zips was a surprise to me but makes perfect sense. It's funny, but someone asked me about Petersham yesterday, and I explained its purpose. Now I'll just send her to your video! Thanks for sharing this gorgeous piece! ❤️

[@henryjjwilkinson]

Thanks so much! I am always learning new construction techniques when I look at pieces like this. So pleased you enjoyed it 💙

[@OMatic91]

Thank you so much for sharing this with us! I have recently got in to sewing by hand and am currently in the middle of a new project, however what I wanted to say is that it is so interesting to se an actual couture dress up close like that and to see the details and how it is constructed and put together, and it also makes me feel better about some of my seams and finishing... hehe But it is so marvellous to see all this beauty and care that has been put in to this dress and all the work, and also your excitement to show us these things is very beautiful to watch. :)

[@MoniqueSinha]

How beautiful! You are so lucky to find it.

[@josephlongie9192]

I watch and enjoy your channel very much. Your passion and enthusiasm it’s so beautifully evident when you are showing such a gorgeous pieces as this one. Your happiness is contagious. Congratulations on a breathtaking addition to your Couture collection.

[@khaelsayfair1163]

This is so pleasing to watch.

[@jandipeach]

It is such an education to see the interior architecture of such an amazing garment. Thank you for the detailed archaeological expedition under the surface of the dress. I love your enthusiasm.

[@darindawestbrook8015]

I can’t get enough of your videos. I would love to study these lovely dresses.

[@remsan03]

07:12 Thank you for dispelling the common perception that Haute Couture is purely done by hand. In the documentary Valentino The Last Emperor, Giancarlo Giametti said, "Tutto è a mano. Once we bought one sewing machine. One machine for a hundred seamstress and no one ever used it."

[@dahlrussell]

How wonderful to see your enthusiasm for this find, and all the intricate details of construction. It is wonderful to hear you describe and explain these things. I was a professoinal seamstress and at one time made all my own clothing, including tailored pieces, from "designer" patterns. It is marvelous to see all the intricate layers and structure and finishing.

[@isabellaminor7048]

Thank you for sharing this beauty with us! It is always exciting to me to see the exquisite details that went into vintage garments! I agree with you about yellow and black not being my favorite color combination, but you simply can’t beat

[@henryjjwilkinson]

Thank you for watching!

[@jessiejoseph1093]

The yellow and black combo is beautifully executed! I share your happiness!

[@kathyvick2710]

Regarding the colors......Kinda looks like a bumblebee.....LOL!!! I was thinking the same thing!!! It’s a beautiful work of art. It would be beautiful with a white silk top as well. Your excitement over this dress is so cute, not nerdy at all. This is your passion and one can see it through your videos. My 95 yr old mother sewed quite a few of my clothes when I was young. Her pieces were made impeccably, not only on the outside but you could literally turn it inside out and wear it because it was made so well. I wish she pursued being a seamstress because she was such a perfectionist but she didn’t. In fact when she visited us over 33 years ago....I was trying to make an ivory swing coat with covered buttons (it was winter and I was pregnant with my first) and was having a hard time finishing it. Well....she took over and finished it for me. And I am still hearing about it all these years later....”remember when I had to finish your coat? Boy was that awful. I worked so hard on that.....didn’t I?” Seriously...if we ever get on a topic of clothes, crafts, etc., I hear about over and over. 😂. The sewing bug did not bit me, neither did the knitting bug. She knits beautiful blankets and has been knitting for about 85 years. She makes baby blankets for baptisms at her church. She’s made blankets for all the grandchildren as well as great-grandchildren. She knitted hats for children at her church’s school as well as baby hats to got to the local hospital. I do other crafts (stamping, scrapbooking, beginning jewelry making, beginning paper quilling, silk flower arrangements, etc.) that my mom says “I wish I could be there and watch you. Where do you get your ideas?” Everyone has there strengths and passions and to be able to pursue them, whether it’s a job or hobby is wonderful. Mine are hobbies which in turn are stress releasers for me, especially with this pandemic we are in. Anyway...continued luck and blessings!

[@alejandros9519]

Amazing video, Love the 50s and 60s, would be great to see that dress restored. Hello from Mexico.

[@swingman5635]

Such a lovely, and iconic find! You were visibly thrilled,and that was wonderful to watch. I'm new to your stories,and would like to know if you have a gallery of your acquisitions, or some other way to display and appreciate them. Thanks! Looking forward to more vids! Stay well!

[@moidutoiphotography8427]

You are a breath of fresh air, loved this video :)

[@whotelakecity2001]

You only have 4 videos? You are a hidden gem!

[@paulcooper3884]

I love the enthusiasm you have for the subject (6.01). Inspiring.

[@tonyboyart]

I just came upon your channel and I love vintage fashion as well! I’d love to see this dress restored and cleaned on a mannequin to see up close how it originally looked.

[@tseamus8288]

Beautiful haute couture dress. I love vintage haute couture. Love your videos. Cheers!

[@stephaniestanley8041]

Your mastery of couture is amazing.

[@jessiejoseph1093]

You are so knowledgeable, and so at ease with sharing this amazing knowledge! Thank you for breaking it down for us!

[@henryjjwilkinson]

My pleasure! Thank you for watching 💙

[@Catbooks]

LOVE this video! One of my most favourite things to do is to explore the construction of a couture dress for the first time. I was almost as excited to watch you do this as you were to do it! It's a pleasure to have found you, and of course I have now subscribed. Don't know if you've done this kind of exploration with your other couture pieces, but I hope so. Thank you for allowing us to share in your excitement :)

[@veritygazzard7210]

Incredible! This whole video is just me agonising over vintage fashion and despairing over fashion in 2021

[@carolbutler6932]

I am of a age to remember "bubble skirts" and puffed out balloon skirts. THEY WERE INDEED AN EXPERIMENTAL TIME IN WOMEN'S FASHION.

[@mandipowell7797]

I'm a dork also, "Honey, help me with this zipper, and this one and that one" is what popped in my head hearing there were 3 separate zippers.

[@henryjjwilkinson]

Absolutely 😂

[@brittanymcmcmc9730]

I LOVED this video! My only request for future dresses is to be able to see it on a dress form? I'm sure that sounds crazy with a piece of haute couture but...seeing it on a figure would just be so great! :')

[@marvinraphaelmonfort8289]

thankyou for sharing =] wow, babe paley. didn't know bubble skirts were big in the 50's. and at givenchy, no less. glad u made this video 💛🖤

[@karenokeane6461]

I love your passion, Henry. This video was so engaging. Thank you for sharing. :)

[@drouinjohnny9036]

Beautiful work.....love it..💗

[@dianavoermans]

Thank you for sharing! I love the dress!

[@carelpijnappels5204]

Incredeble! What a find! What a refinement and workmanship. Thanks for your this and your other lectures. Carel Herman

[@tristanlee173]

A delightful video. Thanks for sharing ❤️

[@projectmidlife]

I love seam finishing done like that, it has a long tradition, and there's something so aesthetically enticing about it. :) My first thought about those tapes front and back, was that maybe they were stress relief for centre back and centre front seams, that way when you'd eg. bend forward, the stress would spread to more seams, but that's just my wild guess not based on any proof. :D Anyway, wonderful find, most certainly excitement worth, so never stop yourself. :) Also, when you said it's from 1957, I instantly thought about Audrey's L'Interdit. :) Have you ever smelled the original vintage one? I need to splurge one day and check it, I love perfumery and it's rather important one in history. :)

[@henryjjwilkinson]

Thank you for watching! I thought the same thing about the tape too, but when I pulled the seams taught, there was no tension in the tape at all - it was still loose - so it didn't seem to take on any of the stress. It's a mystery! I have got a bottle of the original L'Interdit, yes! It's got quite a distinct scent, not at all like the new formula.

[@projectmidlife]

@@henryjjwilkinson Aaah, I see, oh well, maybe one day mystery will be solved. ;) BTW, any chance you'd consider making a video about that coat, that you've made lately? :)

[@giovannadedomenicis2149]

Intriguing video and information. The features of the dress are amazing. The structure is a work of art. Hugs! xoxo

[@AllanGradus]

I would of thought the cotton ribbons do the same job as the waist stay tape. Create definition under the bust and stop the garment from stretching when under strain.

[@tinamontaz6626]

Amazing ..Just discovering your work on utube … bravo !!!

[@trl859]

What a great video!!

[@LWYMMD]

You should read the book “The Sisters” by David Grafton - so much insight into Babe and her upbringing/style!

[@yinghaosun2242]

loveeeeee your channel!

[@myboibill]

Babe was famous There was a huge scandal when a Truman capote write a tell all book about his “friends”. It cause marital riffs that shook American society to the cre. It was the start of the demise of Truman capote. BTW My absolute favorite Audrey Hepburn film is Breakfast at Tiffany’s. Thank you for that Truman. Hid I am loving your vlog

[@malcolmsYouTube]

I studied fashion technique and design in the early 90s and have been working in the Canadian fashion industry since. Love the detail that goes into Haute Couture pieces. That garment is glorious! And I totally appreciate the workmanship involved. If you don't mind me asking- what was the cost of that gorgeous piece? Thanks!

[@michaelbienes548]

Dear Henry, I've just stumble on your channel and find you and your collection very interesting. I love Audrey Hepburn as a actress, she was so talented and took on so many different roles in her career. My favorite films of hers is Breakfast at Tiffany and My fair lady and Wait till dark, that one I was a child when I saw that in a drive in. But it scared the crap out of me. The very best to you and your future collection. Yours truly Mike Bienes

[@julietteyork3721]

I gather it would be a bit worrisome from your perspective but it would be such fun to see the dress on a live model or even a mannequin.

[@amyweaver7413]

Fascinating.

[@malachi551]

So just as a perspective from the other side of the glove conversation. I was trained in preservation of Victorian garments. We were told not to wear gloves because it reduces sensitivity and makes damage to the fabric more possible. I am in no way saying either way is wrong, just presenting the arguments that are common in the conversation world.

[@henryjjwilkinson]

Absolutely! I especially don’t wear gloves if I’m handling beaded pieces that the gloves can catch on, and just make sure my hands are clean. It really depends for me 💙

[@malachi551]

@@henryjjwilkinson I think that’s the case for most of us. Like with a bodice that has already damaged velvet, and shattered silk I’d definitely wear gloves every time.

[@deidrabenson361]

Thanks sooo much for sharing!!❤️❤️

[@heatherreddick4216]

How many fittings for a dress so well constructed? Not my choice of colors, but it looks beautiful.

[@tinamontaz6626]

Bravo for your work and passion …I pray you open your haute Couture house one day ..

[@dC821957]

Babe Paley, so chic!

[@alexdesa8676]

this is amazing, thank you

[@myboibill]

I meant to say Babe Paley was caught up in it. Their house was in Bedford New York and was incredible. So much wealth.

[@henrygardner8418]

Hello Henry . My name is Henry too. Would you please be able to let me know who took that stunning black-and-white photograph of Lee Radziwill in the white dress standing in a doorway, looking over her shoulder? It would be so appreciated.

[@henrygardner8418]

Yes!

[@lancebeller347]

Question why multiple zippers is that to reduce bulk? Beautifully made item nice person you are to take the time to make a nice film

[@jimhooper4252]

I really enjoyed this ....thank you ....

[@danilodiazzafiro9487]

can i ask? what is the brand of your shirt

[@sandralomotey]

thank you for this

[@fritzmasten7675]

The two things that always freak me out about couture clothing of that period are... the zippers are put in with hand stitches that look so hacked to us now. Even Charles James masterworks have big, uneven back stitches holding in the zippers. And, there are no bodice linings! Women paid this money and wore all the exposed guts against their skin. I made a boned dress for an actress recently who expressed horror at there possibly not being a bodice lining. I worked many years at the Public Theater. A board member's mother had been a Balenciaga client. When she died he donated her incredible dresses to the costume dept. A Sable hem, but no lining. As well the seam allowances were unfinished, just cut with a pinking shearing.

[@lapislazuli7876]

It’s true that these days haute couture would be immaculately finished. Even dressmaking has come a long way. The linings and details in modern day French haute couture is immaculate. But you pay for that in 6 figures. You’d want it to be flawless and perfect.

[@angelofmercy3893]

Do you design dresses ? I’ll bet you would be great at it !

[@lifestyleismypassion3279]

Great video, just subbed

[@johnedwards2482]

⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️

[@mikyles1]

Man, you're gorgeous.

[@maxlinder5262]

WHAT IS ALL THAT VISIBLE BLACK HAND STITCHING INSIDE. ON THE LINING ??????????????

[@victoriassme]

It is to join the skirt to the bodice. Since the skirt is black, and the stitches are hand applied, they couldn't use a yellow bobbin thread like a sewing machine would..

[@tzegoh333]

You know, if you're showing it on KZbin, it helps to put the dress on a dress form so that we have a better idea of the silhouette of it.

[@henryjjwilkinson]

Unfortunately, as much as I wanted to display it on a mannequin, the dress was so small it wouldn’t even go over the shoulders of either of my dress-forms. So I had to improvise! Sorry about that.

[@tzegoh333]

@@henryjjwilkinson Mmm... you need a dress form with collapsible shoulders.