Unboxing the Milo V1.5 CNC Kit by LDOMotors

Super excited for this build to start, been following the Millenium Machines team for awhile now and the Milo v1.5 desktop CNC should be a pretty fun build and will open up the capability to do some awesome projects in the future, but first, we need to unbox the thing, so lets do that!
Want to know more? github.com/MillenniumMachines...
LINK TO THE BUILD STREAM - • MILO V1.5 DIY CNC BUIL...
Interested in Snagging a kit for yourself? Check out your local LDOmotors reselller
ldomotion.com/p/contact
Interview with the Millennium Machines team at SMRRF • Millennium Machines Mi...
0:00 INTRO
0:43 3dp vs CNC
4:01 Unboxing Box 1 (frame and motion system)
8:12 Unboxing Box 2 ( the fun stuff that goes BRRRR)
21:42 3D printed Parts
23:54 Wrapup and Build Plans
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I NOW HAVE A TWITTER, follow me @ / canuckcreator

[@CanuckCreator]

Interested in Snagging a kit for yourself? Check out your local LDOmotors reselller ldomotion.com/p/contact Quick corrections, There is no nema17 option, that was on the milo v1.4, its 65mm, not 60mm for the other supported spindle size and lastly some vendors WILL have 110v spindle/vfd available for later batches of the kit

[@agentvx8320]

Warning: This machine does not know the difference between metal and flesh, nor does it care.

[@CanuckCreator]

CNC go BRRR without consideration for what is being BRRRRRR`d

[@annybodykila]

That goes for most machines

[@bonovoxel7527]

No, my printer is extremely sensitive about what she likes to BRRR at which temp and speed. She's a real b!tch I'd say.@@annybodykila

[@adrianmack3]

That's different from 99.9% of all motorized machines how exactly?

[@agaspversilia]

My Stanley knife (got 7 stitches on my index finger 2 weeks ago) is a bit like this machine. Now I bought myself a Cricut 😂😂😂

[@DustyWall]

Gotta love it when the shop looks like an actual working shop rather than a KZbin set.

[@Anguisette]

An additional "last thing you need", I'd recommend a shop vac lol

[@killroy713]

Man. LDO Jason is such good dude if you haven't had the pleasure of meeting him in person your missing out.

[@dr.davesworkshop3585]

Big shout-out to Jason for being such a great community supporter!

[@mdroberts1243]

Good start! Looking forward to the build streams.

[@marclemaire9512]

Just can't wait to see the start of the built !

[@charleylavin]

FOMO is off the charts after watching this.

[@MarkEwert]

I pre-ordered one of the second batch of kits coming with the VFD in late March/early April. Looking forward to watching your build!

[@cedricmaltais5662]

How much did it cost ?

[@domg7359]

Really looking forward to seeing this.

[@cpace123]

I have a long mill sienci CNC since 2022. Been a good small shop machine. It is 31"x31". By the way a Canada based company. I started with a desktop 3020 from china,then a small diy.Year & years ago. And I do think it is interesting that all of these are CNC(laser,3d printer etc). But when we say CNC we pretty much refer to the traditional spindle material extraction version.

[@johan23501]

Thank you for the awesome video! 😊🤘

[@PaulDominguez]

Drinking game! Every time Nero says LDO, take a shot.😂

[@CanuckCreator]

LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO LDO 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LDO

[@killroy713]

​@CanuckCreator ah great no ws eye cannut c staight. ...

[@CanuckCreator]

dsfargeg

[@C3DPropShop]

Ahh, so you have chosen death. ☠️

[@thenextlayer]

Great video Taylor, the new studio is a big upgrade! Also, I'm jealous. Waiting to see how the milo works for you before deciding if I want one :)

[@alanb76]

120V times 12A (80% of 15A) is 1.4kW, not too bad for a small spindle. Some houses / garages have 20A outlets as well. :)

[@farnaby13]

Looking forward to this.

[@ballbous]

1.5KW spindle will likely never draw close to 1.5kw, probably on the order of 50-65%, under heavy cuts. Once people start modding these with bigger rails etc, there will be a lot of good machines in the hands of a lot of people, exciting times for hobby CNC.

[@Antstar12]

Great video, can't wait to see it come together on stream in the coming weeks. Any ideas for projects this will be used in yet?

[@mrpute]

When you get bored with GRBL, consider upgrading everything to a closed-loop servo system. Have a look at Acorn CNC and their Teknic ClearPath servo solution. Top notch stuff that would be super cool to try out on the Milo. One more thing to note about the spindle. From loud to quiet, router-->air-cooled spindle-->water-cooled spindle. Routers will make your ears bleed, so it's great that the spec calls for an air-cooled spindle at a minimum. However, liquid-cooled is by far the most ideal basement chip cutting based on the sound alone.

[@CanuckCreator]

This kit stock is using RRF to control the machine, not GRBBL, as for the spindle, air cooled makes a bit more sense vs water due to simplicity and cost of adding all the water cooling equipment (tub, pumps, hosing etc) You can always order the kit WITHOUT the spindle and self source w/e you want, or competently DIY too

[@mrpute]

@@CanuckCreator My bad, you're right about RRF. Yes, water is much more complex, but the cost is literally an aquarium pump, some tubes, and a 5 gallon bucket. Your ears will thank you in the end! Seriously, check out that Acorn CNC controller and the Teknic ClearPath servos....it's amazing.

[@Todestelzer]

I have a Mavell FM1000 with quick change for tools but yeah above 10k rpm you have to deal with 70-75dB…. Never used 24k and most of the time I use 6k rpm to keep the noise down.

[@ballbous]

@@CanuckCreator WC spindles typically have substantially more power and are drastically quieter. If you don't mind it being unbelievably loud, and the spindle is overspecced somewhat, an air cooled spindle is mostly fine.

[@ballbous]

@@mrpute There are plenty of ways to go servo without needing to move to something so locked down and proprietary.

[@jeremyglover5541]

Cool vid!! looking forward to the build series. i'll be interested to see what quality of parts you can get out of it. Do you know if there are any closed loop stepper mods for it? I assume not servos, as that alone would double the price of the machine.

[@alanb76]

Some available VFDs can double the voltage so you can run a 240V spindle from a 120V line. The power (and torque) will be limited by the capacity of the 120V inlet power but the RPM will have full speed range. I don't know about the LDO VFD. (note that 110 and 220 are generally not what is actually available, usually it is 120 and 240 volts).

[@crashingsux]

Can you recommend one of those type VFDs? I only have 110v in my current house but that sounds convenient for when I move to a place with 220v.

[@jeremyglover5541]

I think you are being unnecessarily rigid with that statement. actually what is becoming more standard is 115/230V, certainly in the EU that is THE standard. Some countries are 220V and others 240V for 2 phase, but in most countries depending on where you are, how close you are to the substation, how much load is in your area etc, that can vary quite a bit. I have lived in houses that are as low as 225VAC and as high as 250VAC late at night when the load is light. our power in Australia used to be specified as 240VAC, but as of 2010 that was standardised to 230VAC.

[@vinnnocc]

I just ordered batch 2 from West3D can’t wait. Sure hope west3d kit it’s packaged like LDO

[@crocblanc01]

I live in France, we are on 220 V and our electrical panel can go up to 40 A (depending on subscription), my apartment is set on 30A

[@M4dM1ke]

Awesome!

[@MyTechFun]

Hello. I am using (mini) milling machine a lot (hand driven, not CNC). It has a ratio reduction between a 500W brushless motor and spindle, and it has enough torque to mill steel too. Aluminium will melt on those high RPM-s (main problem with Milo or new Voron CNC). I hope once somebody will create a desktop CNC with including this spec too.

[@jayare7750]

Is there a slicer that will move the Z axis up while moving the X and Y axis during layer change? I hate that pause between layer change. After the layer is finished, stop extruding but continue moving while also moving up

[@crocblanc01]

I live in France, we are on 220 V and our electrical panel can go up to 40 A (depending on subscription), my apartment is on 30A

[@tuffin1743]

I see batch 2 kit has 110v spindle option. I may have pre ordered one last week.

[@CatHerderCam]

Not going to lie, had a small heart atack when I saw the 220v on the box and also when he said it comes with the 220v. I did go back and check and the one I ordered from Fabreeko says that it comes with 110v spindle.

[@jellopoolparty7112]

Look good

[@arbjful]

Is it possible to get just the machined plate?

[@zoltanr15]

try filling the extrusion profiles with epoxy/ concrete to add rigidity to it :)

[@CanuckCreator]

oh thats on the list of content down the line, gotta build it "stock" first to get a baseline measured before changing things up

[@johnkurtinecz5774]

Looking forward to your build series, I have a LDO batch one kit ordered and all of the printed parts ready to go.

[@cedricmaltais5662]

As I see it cost 1299$ US (I’m Canadian) from around here I could have a real USED but still.. real thing milling cnc machine… am I seeing the wrong price ?

[@stanislavdenysenko2007]

1:25 The motors works as generators.

[@tomaskriz4963]

What about creep on the cf parts? I remember Stefan´s video when he used cf parts on voron 0 and he suffferd from serious creep.

[@CanuckCreator]

the creep wasnt due to CF, it was due to the nylon type used IIRC, im using a different type and also it is annealed

[@tomaskriz4963]

@@CanuckCreator You annealed the printed part or the filament was already annealed? I would love if you make a video about these cf and gf types of plastics. Peek and ultem are cool but they are hard to print and very expensive. So pc, different types of nylon and other materials that you can print under 350C on hotend are very interesting to me and I also think the community would like this type of a video.

[@CanuckCreator]

Annealed the printed parts, its not hard and most manufactures tell you temps and times needed. Litterally just throw em in something that can heat them up to the required temp for x amount of time and then cool them down graduallly

[@raiden9250]

Rock- lobster!

[@brettryan8737]

are you still going to finish the a8

[@CanuckCreator]

Saturday nights stream Thats the stream were we enjoy a drink and were gonna need it

[@Smrts955]

People keep trying to make 5 axis happen on fdm but for now 5 axis remains a just subtractive feature

[@machinerin151]

The constant slip ups in calling a CNC machine a printer 😭😭😭 I have been working as a CNC operator on the big proper $20k+ machines for almost a year now and still slip up exactly like this 😁

[@jamesmccaul2945]

They should fire you before your careless mistakes cause a disaster.

[@machinerin151]

@@jamesmccaul2945 uhhh... a mistake of calling the machine this way?

[@gregs9492]

I find it amusing that I keep seeing Bambu Labs commercials in your vids and replays from your live streams. I hope you can see and enjoy the irony I find in that.

[@CanuckCreator]

I aint gonna compplain if bambu pays me through ads lol

[@gregs9492]

@@CanuckCreator Neither would I. I just find it ironic.

[@leesmithsworkshop]

What software do they recommend to make the gcode ? I guess fusion360 would be one option. I only do basic cuts on my Workbee and use cut2d desktop that I purchased, but it really is designed for basic 2d work, you can't even do chamfers with a basic tool. The kit looks great and including all those bits, 123blocks and dial indicator is a nice touch.

[@alanb76]

Some folks use ESTLcam for this type of work.

[@CanuckCreator]

TBH Not a clue Ive used carbide create in the past, but its really only good for cutting 2d flat shapes and putting holes in things, no 3d models at all

[@leesmithsworkshop]

@@CanuckCreator That is the same as Cut2d just basic SVG and DXF import for 2d cutting. It will be interesting to see how people find that part. Cut2d has a lot of speeds and feeds for basic materials and tools so it did make it easier to get started.

[@jakeengland1430]

Hey Millennium founder here, we currently have a basic post processor for fusion, were working on a bolt on for RRF to make it more feature rich which will be coming out later this year.

[@leesmithsworkshop]

@@jakeengland1430 The problem with fusion for me is the free version does not allow you to design and sell parts.

[@cpace123]

Of course you can you a router also. Lots of power, but noisy

[@jeremygalloway1348]

Playstation rules! Rockin the shit out of that shirt

[@onepanther69]

he he he , he said splooges.... lmao

[@scottpickstock6721]

Swear to god they build a better copy of mine 😂

[@florincurelaru]

Nobody seems to have the kit 😅

[@MarkEwert]

West3D does. I ordered one just the other day.

[@NigelTolley]

It's sold out in most countries. The last kits went a couple of days ago. There's ~5 left in the UK second run pre order.

[@controlfreak1963]

You need to understand CAM software for CNC which is beyond CAD design.

[@FunkyAbigail]

2:34 *you're

[@CanuckCreator]

Thank you for participating in the engagement baiting process!

[@seljd]

if this is too small, for a little more money and much more work, you could build PrintNC which is DIY CNC machine that doesn't have any size restrictions

[@ballbous]

It's also drastically more rigid and has a lot more room for improvements.

[@ovarb12]

Kit cost $1200

[@HuskysAquariums]

Why someone buy this (which looks good though) when it costs 1500€ while you can buy a 1250mm x 1250mm RatRig Stronghold full kit with tools for 2200€???

[@CanuckCreator]

why buy an f150 over a rav4? Different design goals, capabilities and sizes. Buy and use whatcha want

[@jakeengland1430]

the stronghold is not 2200 go to their website right now and actually go through the options list and i assure you that number is closer to 3500 when you match it feature for feature to milo the 2200 is just for the frame essentially. Don't get me wrong the stronghold looks cool and probably works but its not the same at all

[@HuskysAquariums]

@@CanuckCreator what makes this superior?

[@CanuckCreator]

neither are superior, they all have pros and cons

[@ballbous]

@@HuskysAquariums Fits parts that need a larger z clearance with more rigidity. Footprint to work area ratio is a lot better with smaller builds. There are far more capable machines you can build for far less if you put more time in though, a kit with all parts and simple build are why this and ratrigs machine are popular.

[@sto2779]

19:45 - No fucking way, a CNC hobby grade kit actually provided a dial indicator and magnetic stand, holy fuck, this CNC kit is no BS. First I've seen this type of accessories where a company provides precision metrology.

[@patrickzaluski6229]

Lost me at " several thousand rippems"

[@CanuckCreator]

k

[@axelSixtySix]

Nero, thank you for the detailed video on the kit's contents. However, as an engineer, a few things caught my attention. First, you refer to the 3D printer as a CNC, and vice versa. It's an imprecise term, even though I understand it's widespread in the USA. A bit of resistance could spare us from something as silly as mislabeling a feeder as an extruder and calling a hotend an extruder while it combines both cold and hot elements. The Milo is a CNC mill-never once heard you use this term, which is spot on. The machine's name alone should have triggered the experienced person in you, given its play on the term mil. So... Moreover, using 3D-printed parts on a mill raises a red flag for me. The Young's Modulus of thermoplastics disqualifies structural plastic parts in any machine subjected to stress, especially a mill. ABS might not be the best choice either, considering its mechanical properties. To match the rigidity of an aluminum plate, PLA would need to be 20 times thicker in all three directions. And 100 times to approach the properties of steel. Yet, the Young's Modulus is given for an isotropic and solid piece, not the case with a 3D print! For a sensor endstop bracket or any non-structural part, it's inconsequential. However, for a structural piece, it immediately affects the machine's performance and/or cutting quality. Let's be pragmatic. First, we have some standard parts in good metal for reasonable price nowadays. Good filament costs between 20 and 30€, or 30 and 60€ for filaments with better mechanical properties like POM or PC. Steel is 2€ per kg, and aluminium is 4€ only. Drilling four holes in a good old metal plate with a printed template is achievable for anyone with a drill. They'll get a better piece, in much less time, and for much less money. So, why on earth use one of the worst materials for this purpose? It's fantastic to have linear guides on a machine, but what's the point if you hold the spindle with 3D-printed parts that are 50 times more flexible? What will happen as a result? Because we can already tell on paper. Well, just like with a carnival 3018, we'll have hordes of KZbinrs reducing speed and depth of cut to avoid stressing the machine too much and getting somewhat presentable parts. And that'll be enough to claim it's a good machine. Their audience will believe them. A good machine is one that can work to the specifications of the cutting tool. If the spindle accepts 10mm diameter cutting tools, then a good machine must enable the use of that tool at the feed rate and depth of cut it demands. I won't go into detail here, but taking 0.5mm in aluminum with a 10mm tool is 20 times below the ordinary parameters for that cutting tool. So either the machine can exploit the tools it can carry, making it a good machine, or it can't, making it a bad machine. It's as simple as that!

[@CanuckCreator]

So as a tool and mold maker with several years of manual machining background. I think your way over expecting what this machine is meant to be, is it comparable to HAAS or Trimill, heck no, and never will be, its not meant to be. Its a fully DIY cnc mill that doesnt require any specialized tooling or skills and is built with off the shelf components, expecting it to push a half inch endmill through p-20 tool steel is folly. I`ve seen this machine in action, and seen what it can do, no, its not a production machine, its hobbyist project for someone who wants to dip their feet into the world of subtractive manufacturing who also wants to build something themselves and has resonable expectations as to what it can accomplish. TL:DR no this machine isnt for everyone, no its not the best, but it does what it does quite well, and if its not for you, dont buy, simple.

[@axelSixtySix]

@@CanuckCreator I appreciate your input, and perhaps I wasn't clear enough-my apologies. Just a quick note before diving in: it's amusing how the CNC discussion always revolves around either price or the amateur versus professional domain. In reality, these arguments don't hold water. As mentioned earlier, a very capable machine can be crafted without special skills, a hefty budget, or complex tools, given the use of the right materials. Two examples: a CNC mill structure cast in concrete on particle board would be excellent, requiring no special tools and costing next to nothing. With just a 5€ hacksaw, a square, and some epoxy, one can assemble an excellent steel structure. So, it's not about skills, tools, or budget, but simply about making the right choices, and one can build a capable machine at a minimal cost-examples and plans abound on the internet. Moreover, I see no good reason why a hobbyist should be excited about having mediocre tools. Now, let's get to the heart of the matter, shall we? I graduated several decades ago and have been interested in CNC mills since 1996, in addition to being an early Reprapper. The crucial aspect in a machine is its coherence. If you want to engrave PCBs and MDF without quality requirements, then a 3018 will be perfect for that purpose. However, if you aim to cut hardwood or metals with it, you're exceeding its capabilities. Changing its spindle or guides is futile-a machine is a whole, and to meet your expectations, you'll have to change all components, from the structure to the control board. Here lies the issue: this machine aspires to compete with an entry-level mill, yet the kit's price seems higher than digitizing a Sieg X2, made of good steel, which can live up to its claims. Meanwhile, the kit presented here already has a number of major flaws on paper. Firstly, as mentioned earlier, structural parts in plastic, especially 3D-printed, cannot provide proper support in a milling application. The aluminium structure is also less than ideal (aluminium profiles are more expensive than steel profiles that could be simply glued up). The machine comes equipped with an oversized spindle for its structure. Objectively, a less stressed structure by a 500w spindle with an ER11 collet would be more suitable. Because if you have a spindle capable of mounting large tools, expect users to do just that. Understand that mounting large tools on a structure incapable of withstanding their forces doesn't make sense. The user will have no choice but to drastically lower cutting parameters, which is bad for the tooling, leading to overheating, working at the edge of its sharpness, and rapid wear. You have the right to disagree, but I observe marked design errors that cannot be without consequences.

[@ballbous]

@@axelSixtySix The PrintNC is a design that can be made with hand tools also and manages the rigidity impacts of printed parts much better, with a roadmap to make replacements out of Aluminium/Steel as soon as possible. I'm sure with time the Milo will adopt the same strategy, or the community will do it anyway.

[@xyzspec82]

Please do not build a CNC with plastic parts. You will regret it really fast! And that's very far of being the best DIY CNC

[@CanuckCreator]

k