How To Get A Beautiful, Long Lasting Paint Job On Your Engine For One Dollar

[@tomashton1781]

when it comes to painting anything, its 90% prep and 10% doing the paint

[@paulhoskins7852]

Absolutely correct!

[@user-ds9zd8eq6u]

It's both!

[@dooby1445]

@@user-ds9zd8eq6u nope, 90% prep and 10% painting.

[@rickybellamy8191]

Absolutely! I worked my ass off on the prep......but brushing this stuff on an LS block was work as well. Bare metal drinks the primer.

[@joewarrick6043]

KZbin should give this guy one of the awards for most educational channels. I watch all the videos of his I can. He’s got a certain temperament and way about him that makes it easy to learn what he’s teaching. This video is pretty basic stuff but dude has massive knowledge about engines and how everything works

[@Snappyck]

I agree started off letting people know hes talking about doing a good cheap job not professional as hes working in a nice shop

[@TheWirkkalaShow]

More of you old school guys need to be making videos like this. These little trucks that lead to the best and most affordable results are invaluable. Thanks my man. I’m gonna use this 👍

[@j.t.cooper2963]

This is stuff we learned from our elders growing up. I'm 58 and I try to pass my knowledge on to whoever is interested.

[@NoMonkeyBizz]

Ooh man im about to do this soon

[@pauljones7464]

Fabulous

[@timgibson2070]

Do you think this is better then say vht high temp engine enamel? Is the rustoleum primer and paint that he uses in this video for high tempature applications ?

[@davidredfearn664]

You are the Bob Ross of engine painting. The the ideas and methods you show help us diy people. Many thanks!

[@airy-mountain]

Happy little casting numbers, let them shine. There you go, happy!

[@waynesmith7487]

You are not going for a paint job, you're giving your engine a clean, "witnessable" appearance which helps you identify leaks and look good doing it. Brush works great 👍

[@whatyoumakeofit6635]

Well said

[@michaeldose2041]

Exactly, and much easier to clean when you have a sealed, rather than a porous cast iron surface.

[@HighlanderNorth1]

☑️ Yeah, that's true, but there's another significant benefit to painting your Mopar or GM engine! Applying a can of Ford blue engine paint is an easy way to pick up an extra 75hp + 70ft/lbs of torque! 😁

[@michaeldose2041]

@@HighlanderNorth1 The only caution I would give there is, there are many documented cases of organ rejection with that approach.

[@kengruginski6889]

First of all I'd like to say I love your videos very knowledgeable my one and only question for you you're using Rust-Oleum paint with a brush do you know if safety orange color from Rust-Oleum is almost similar to the Mopar Orange engine color I'm asking because that's the only luck that I found with that color with Rust-Oleum any suggestions would be helpful keep up the good work my friend

[@dbyrnell]

Just followed your instructions to paint my block. Turned out amazingly! Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge! It turned out beautiful!! Thank you !!

[@carmudgeon7478]

"Happy little casting numbers". Bob is hiding out at UTG!

[@ANTHONYSANTIAGODJFTLM]

😂😂😂

[@DemetrisIacovides]

This was the first video I saw of this man, and my word, he is truly the best in KZbin, not only because of his knowledge or his skills, but because he shares his tricks and you are not afraid to follow along with what he says. You have my subscription and my respect mister Tony

[@brocluno01]

Here's trick learned from doing marine engines. Cut your gloss Rustoleum with about 8~10% acetone. And use a better brush. It'll gloss even better, it'll flow into corners better, and it'll bite into the primer for a better bond 😊

[@tarstarkusz]

It's hard to paint well with a cheap brush. Those are dollar tree level brushes he's using.

[@JayMalone26]

I cut my Rustoleum w/ mineral spirits and had success results. It dries to a satin finish, though. Looks great for the undercarriage and dries very smooth like it was sprayed on.

[@lynnhooley7608]

Last step, Immediately as you get the paint applied, pull all your brushstrokes the same direction. "I learned that trick from a carpenter"

[@dheujsnrhfydhehehshshhdggsd]

@@JayMalone26 same

[@BareRoseGarage]

Depending on weather, is what I cut it with, but it seems to always be Acetone because its the winter lol. And a Purdy brush, because I paint houses as well lol. Pretty cool tip he has on that Torch, I'm definitely going to give that a go from now on.

[@Hysteresis11]

Uncle Tony is like the Paul Harrell of engine building. 👍

[@theprofessionalamateur4150]

😂😂😂 thats a great comparison.

[@buckwild6587]

I got that reference!

[@adriancastillo6892]

"Today we are using Remington golden Saber 180gr full metal jacket 40.cal ammunition out of a 4th gen glock 22"

[@christhomas9300]

RIP

[@yurimodin7333]

@@christhomas9300 😢

[@BUILTOFFICIAL]

I love these videos so much thanks for sharing the experience UTG

[@jacobclark9117]

Built on utg? Never would've guessed

[@miketaylor6282]

I loved how you handled all the keyboard hero out there, who live to criticize the tiniest details. 00:55 I loved your video and thanks for sharing!

[@seanmccarty7074]

This video is exactly why I watch UTG. But now I feel like pulling my motor, stripping it down, map gas, acetone, and painting it with a brush. next time... Thanks Uncle Tony. your videos are much appreciated.

[@MobileTech296]

Effective, inexpensive, and simple to do. The holy trinity of DIY’ers everywhere.

[@5spd5thgen]

I love that you keep your channel focus on home builds. Your knowledge pool is admirable. I hope to be half as knowledgeable

[@alexhellier2008]

Never would've thought to use a torch to sweat the engine. Thank you for the great video

[@Cragified]

Used rust-oleum for decades for lots of things doing just like you showed. We made a sort of kiln over to heat up casings in to paint to get rid of the moisture and oil. Reasonable low temperatures as to not effect the metallurgy of course. We liked using either yellow or white though as it made leaks from hydraulic pumps and motors or engine blocks really obvious.

[@myk_islive6471]

Thanks Tony! 20 years old and I’m about to paint my first 350 small block. I’ve never had any mentors to show these tricks, so this is a massive help to me and my 79 el Camino project!

[@MikeBrown-ii3pt]

I've used Rustoleum as engine paint for years. I also like to use their "hammered finish" paint on the sheet metal parts like valve covers and oil pans. It leaves a different type of surface that helps hide small imperfections. On top of that, it just looks cool!

[@ThePaulv12]

Hammertone on engine blocks would actually look pretty cool I reckon. Hammertone grey or Altec Lansing green would make an engine look very no nonsense 'industrial.'

[@MrTheHillfolk]

Years ago in high school, we were restoring a pickup and the teacher had us he's black Rust-Oleum brush on paint for the frame. We laughed. That was like 1990. I saw the truck about 10 years ago at a show and it still looked like we just painted it. I'm a believer. I used it on one of my builds ,came out great for all the suspension. I've had great success with a 30$ husky detail gun and real automotive paint for engines ,works 10x better then duplicolor engine paint and is alot glossier and durable, but the Rust-Oleum is the next best.

[@wht240sxka]

You can get the same effect from dumping dot3 on it, ask me how I know 🙄

[@offroadspecialties7383]

I paint all chassis, roll cages and fabricated components with the black hammertone Rustolium. That stuff is fantastic. Brush or roll on only. The spray cans aren't the same thing. It doesn't separate right. It's like flat black with bubbles.

[@papadocusmc3949]

@@wht240sxka how ? why? and in replace of ? 3 dot will eat ur paint..

[@occamsrazor1285]

15:14 Your technique isn't bad at all. And you're really close to it looking absolutely amazing. All you need to do is work on the discipline to do one thing: to a quick light coat. I mean not even cover the block entirely. Let the primer show through so only about 25% of the block is actually covered in the fresh paint. This is called a tack coat, and it significantly expands that "margin of error" for runs.

[@CODA-Improvements]

Tony , you’re right on with aerosol paints. They contain a higher percentage of thinner to allow them to spray. Higher solids content equals better performance and adhesion.

[@morewaterslides]

In the middle of an overhaul right now and boy am I glad I clicked on this video! You just earned yourself a new subscriber my friend. Keep up the good work!

[@gypsoncustommachining7591]

Another tip is that some hardware stores can mix enamels to any of the colors that they have for their latex paint. I have done this many times and most people don’t know about this.

[@madmanmechanic8847]

No true went to HOMO depot they cannot mix Purple

[@gregbanks74]

Great... I just used VHT engine enamel to paint my motor. After test fitting it the first time (and a couple of more times after that) the paint was getting pretty messed up and I was being gentle. Now I am going to strip all the paint back off of it, grab the ol' torch and get to busy painting it. I WISH I would have came accross this video before I painted it the first time. If I wasn't so anal about about wanting it to stay looking good for a long time I wouldn't care. However, this is my first frame off build and it's my own vehicle and I want something I can be proud to show people for years to come. Thank you so much for making this video!

[@BlackheartCharlie]

1:28 "... do a video on it!" Well said! It's a challenge to all of the armchair critics who just have to point out how much smarter or more skilled they are than the person who actually is putting out fantastic, useful content. Cheers from Key West, Capt. Blackheart Charlie

[@jaredmayer3960]

Last place I was on holidays was Key West…so nice.

[@GMCJay_lly]

Keys are AWESOME! 239 here.

[@wyrdo1501]

hey bud, you ever run into Kevin from how to sail oceans channel? that dude is pretty hardcore lol

[@d0peshow]

I agreed until you felt the need to cite your rank.

[@zacharyklemm1155]

I used this method one year ago. I will do this every time now. Worked awesome..... engine still looks brand new.

[@tabbott429]

I brushed the whole underside of my 58 chevy during a frame off restoration. "Chassis Saver" quart worked great for that application. That stuff hardens with moisture in the air and literally welded a 2x4 to my concrete floor when some spilled. A 3 ft prybar wouldnt remove it. The 2x4 split apart and left a chunk stuck so bad its taken 5 years to wear it away. Ive used acetone and/or rubbing alcohol for cleaning before paint. I painted my 396bbc with "cast iron gray" engine paint.

[@ThePaulv12]

I'm thinking it might be a cheap way to anchor floor joists to a concrete slab when you need to turn a garage into another room.

[@MrTheHillfolk]

Yep I spilled some por 15 on a spot in the shop about 12-14 yrs ago right in a high traffic area. Haha I bet it would buff up nice still 😄

[@terrythomas790]

@@MrTheHillfolk But wont stick on a car! lol

[@GVlVG]

@@terrythomas790 concrete has really deep pores, so it sits in really nicely, for cars you need to really scuff it well

[@jimriess3564]

One of the best explanations I have seen and heard. I love that your thinking about the average guy who does not have time to sit around waiting for materials to come in, let alone money. Thank you!

[@freedom1garage]

This is the best "low budget" how to for the average guy in a very long time. Thanks T!

[@bobhill3941]

Another fantastic video, very informative. You're the only guy I've seen who shows how to actually prep a block and I never knew to do the torch trick! Rustoleum is a great paint. When you painted your block, I got serious Bob Ross relaxation vibes.

[@kuattro77o]

Very late to the party but this video popped up and I’m happy I watched it. Interesting point on the heating the surface to clean out the pores of the casting. Something that’s so simple, and yet I never see anyone talk about it. It’s always “clean the surface up, and spray your primer” - great video!

[@TheWhitetailrancher]

This is a VERY MUCH NEEDED video to put out on the ol' tube! Thank you for this!

[@davidhakes3884]

Hi Tony, GREAT Video, I am an old automotive Machinist , engine builder and Body N paint/frame man and fully approve your methods, the mapp torch info is priceless.

[@NebukedNezzer]

50 years ago a professional painter told me Rust Oleum is very good paint. just do it rite and let it dry well. I have done 5 vehicles with it and they all came out fine.

[@reaper20015]

Rust-Oleum has a new paint out called implement paint. We buy it at Tractor Supply, holds up great on frames and blocks. Spray cans aren't what they used to be. VHT used to be the best.......till they sissified it

[@TheBrokenLife]

@@reaper20015 I have always bad bad results with VHT. First tried it around 2005-ish and it held up like crap. It's also expensive. I switched off to spray bombs of Rust-Oleum engine enamel and I'm happy with it so far.

[@Thaddaeus417]

So I followed his instructions exactly and did a 440 a couple years ago and I can give this method a long term, two thumbs up review. Honestly I'll never do it another way, not one chip, does not discolor and goo wipes right off.

[@price8314]

I've had a rustoliem oil base paint job on a 2.3 for about 8 years. Its still on there still looks great!! I put some m.e.k. and penetrol in with it and get fantastic results with the same methods you used, you really cant beat rustoliem it is a great best kept secret!! The m.e.k. dries it quickly, penetrol helps with rust and helps it flow out.

[@VVK5W]

Absolutely the best tutorial on the internet. Been doing this exact method for years, on engines & much, much more. Works everytime.

[@hulkcommander]

I love the “nod” to Bob Ross when you mentioned, “happy little casting numbers”. Great videos, keep ‘em coming!

[@giovannicintolo89]

rustoleum hasn't been killed by the epa because it's a fish oil base. Takes about a month to fully harden. I like to spray it through a cheap harbor freight hvlp gun with Majic enamel hardener. Respirator is an absolute must if you use the enamel hardener. Works great on wheels. I've always wondered if it would hold up to engine heat, now I know! Great content as usual

[@jeffnolan7392]

That's whale oil, and last I checked, whales aren't fish, and Rust-Oleum hasn't had whale oil in it since whales became endangered. Rust-Oleum products no longer contain whale oil, instead using resins derived from alkyds, polyurethanes, epoxies, latex, etc. Evanston. (quote from manufacturer) The term, "fish oil" appears in answers about paint, but by "fish oil" they meant "whale oil".

[@sydrider6023]

Never realized that a brush paint is way better for an engine block. Thanks UTG for showing me a simple and effective way to do this.

[@supasnake8138]

This video was a god send. Like everything in the auto world you will get a hundred different opinions and a thousand different product options. Your simple and practical explanations cut through all of the noise. Thank you!

[@notsure7874]

The reason the equipment paint and rustoleum holds up well, is that it's an acrylic enamel (which is oil base, not water - not the same as acrylic paint). A lot of rattle can products, even ones labeled "enamel" are lacquer. Using the brush is definitely a great idea. It's like this - you drop some sauce on your pants, you can maybe lift it off. Until you push it in and rub it around, then you're not getting it off. Just make sure you don't leave a bristle behind. This method of painting an engine is super solid and there's no doubt that it'll hold up for many years.

[@ripvanrevs]

I've been remodeling houses for over 25 years and never used a spray painter. I've always thought a brush did a much better job. Quick tip if you are painting wood, drywall etc with a water based latex and you have a couple spots come through like crayon, grease or water stain. Just shoot those small areas with a little rustoleum spray paint and then paint over after dry. Saves from buying a bigger can of oil base paint or primer.

[@V8SKULLS]

You can never be to old to learn new tricks, Old school knowledge is the best thing to learn. Thank you

[@MrMopar413]

I’m a rust-oleum guy to. I use it exclusively on my metal and other projects. That sunrise red is awesome; I use it on my steel fence posts, it doesn’t chip at all, and I use their primer before the finish coat. I’ve got some fence posts that I painted 22 years ago and it’s still great and it’s exposed to the weather of the Pacific Northwest.

[@MrTheHillfolk]

Haha omg I did the complete suspension on my mk2 Jetta coupe in that color about 10yrs ago and it still looks mint. 2 coats of por 15 for a base 2 coats of brush on sunrise red , and 2 top coats from a spray can in that color for the gloss after a little sanding to remove any brush marks. Shiny and still looks great!

[@MrMopar413]

@@MrTheHillfolk awesome

[@robnamowicz8073]

"I have no skill, I have no patience,,," Baloney, Tony, you have learned all your life lessons with skill and patience. You didn't get this good without those qualities.

[@unclemarksdiyauto]

Great tips for block painting, especially the heating block with Map gas! Totally makes sense. I never would have thought of this! Great tips for primer and paint as well. I will follow you instructions!

[@albertgaspar627]

@@DanEBoyd they bake after the powder is applied via static electric attraction.

[@biscuiteater1000]

Spot on! You have great videos, I was heating a block watching this video and the moisture was dripping on the floor... I really hadn't thought about what was in the poors of the block that I was painting because it was dry, boy was I fooled! Thank you!

[@jimifed2798]

I was wondering about the effect of heat from the engine would have on rustoleum but if Tony says it holds up I believe it.

[@MrTheHillfolk]

Most standard paints are good for 250 degrees.... So if your engine is going to 250, you might wanna check your cooling system 😄

[@jimifed2798]

@@MrTheHillfolk Yeah, that makes sense the block shouldn't reach that but the heads might after the water pump stops.

[@Truth-Seeker777]

I bake rustoeum onto small parts at 220 Fahrenheit, so I think it should handle the heat just fine

[@jeffrykopis5468]

My dad taught me about warming the metal over 40 years ago, when I was a kid rebuilding and selling bicycles. I live in a humid climate near the ocean, so moisture returns very quickly. Spray paint wasn't as good in the 70s, but Rustoleum always gave great results. I'd spray on the primer while the metal was still warm, but not TOO hot. The ceramic engine paint they make now is phenomenal!

[@hoamai2734]

Uiyyyyú

[@jeffrykopis5468]

@@hoamai2734 huh? English, please.

[@davidj.2870]

My dad and I spent a few years buying and selling old tractors 40 years ago. We would pick up a gallon of paint for ford, john deere, oliver, IH, MF, Allis Chalmers, you name it. We always used a brush. We also used a fine natural (camel, horse) hair brush. It held paint better and had fewer drips and runs, better coverage and the brush marks disappeared almost instantly. We even painted a 64 GMC dually that way on the body, rims and flatbed. We could get roughly 2 tractors per gallon. My dad wanted to try spraying it to save time. We used 4 times the paint and the results were not nearly as good. There is no such thing as overspray with a brush. Nothing popped like a 2 tone color scheme. I did this to a 235 stovebolt Chevy, chevy orange. Valve cover was aluminum gray with the orange Chevrolet script letters, the intake was the same color. The starter, generator, road draft tube, air cleaner, brackets and bolt heads were gloss black. The motor was my first rebuild and low on power, so when my brother wrecked his 69 Impala with a 327 and 2 speed powerglide, I dropped that into my 56 shortbed stepside pickup. That 327 looked much better under the hood.

[@ripvanrevs]

Oil based paint is kind of "self-leveling" so the streaks disappear.

[@bradgarner2795]

Can I ask what color for you used to get close to “ chevy orange”. Thanks

[@davidj.2870]

@@bradgarner2795 Its been 40+ years since I did that but if I recall, my local parts store had engine paint in quarts. What brand it was I have no idea. I know they also had ford blue, mopar blue and orange. Could it have been from their paint shop? possibly. I do remember buying the body color for the 56 pickup from a ppg dealer at the time after reading a hot rod magazine article on painting your own car and ppg was what they used on a 69 Z28. It wasn't lacquer though, I remember that.

[@davidj.2870]

@@ripvanrevs Painting outside in Texas heat made it a requirement because it set quickly. My dad always bought the cheap brushes and they always left streaks. His idea was use the brush and toss it rather than clean it. His way also required doing it for a second coat. As the one painting the tractor and giving it a single coat was my preference I went with a better brush and reused it. But yes you are right..

[@tonycappelletti246]

Thankyou so very much for your down to earth, common sense video. At 70 years old I'm restoring my first classic and getting ready for reassembly, looking for tips on paint and found this. Thanks again.

[@AtomicFacePunch]

1. Love the Bob Ross flashback! Happy little cloud... 2. Acetone rocks! I've even had decent luck using it to melt the top layer of a crappy rattle can job to get a fresh (crappy rattle can) top coat to actually stick for a few years. 3. Has anyone tried POR 15 or Chassis Saver in high heat applications? It's almost indestructible on floor pans, frame rails, bathtubs and kitchen sinks, curious if anyone has tried it on a block.

[@vladanorve9383]

Haha I was gonna bring up Bob Ross too

[@TheBrokenLife]

I've tried POR's POR-20 product, which is designed for high-heat applications (specifically exhaust manifolds) and it didn't go well. Despite following all of the directions and even having it professionally baked on, It peeled off of everything I tried with it within 2 years. Some years later I used up what I had of it lying around on some chassis stuff just to see what would happen and it all rusted again in about 3-4 years, despite being top coated in color too. My belief is the color layer is what was actually doing the work. All of that was on rust-belt driven daily rigs, so no baby treatment. I wanted to see how it would hold up before using it for anything important. A buddy of mine didn't believe me and did his CJ-7 fender well headers and side pipes with it and it lasted less than a year, also in daily driving. He didn't have it baked, but he heat cycled it and all of that the way the directions suggested. Anyhow... I'm not a fan of the POR high-temp line based on my experience.

[@MrTheHillfolk]

I do like POR, but lately I've had great luck with a 30$ husky detail gun and real automotive paint for an engine. Lasts better then the trash engine paint spray bombs any day, but the por and Rust-Oleum is a second best. I did all the suspension on my summer car about 10yrs back with por and Rust-Oleum. 2 coats of por ,2 coats of brush on Rust-Oleum, and 2 coats of spray bomb Rust-Oleum for a nice gloss. And hopefully if the paint does chip,it'll just chip and still see the brush on paint.

[@kcav5374]

@@TheBrokenLife I used Eastwood's stainless steel paint on some exhaust manifolds when I rebuilt a 302 for a 77 Mercury Cougar. I had shot blasted them & spayed brake clean on them & also used a torch to wick the moisture away before I painted them. I brushed it on as it said, touching up any scuffs and heat cycled it & I was surprised how long they looked good even after a bit of oil spilled on them it just burned away and they still looked good.

[@TheBrokenLife]

@@kcav5374 I've had other bad experiences with Eastwood so I'm not too inclined to try their other products. For exhaust stuff, these days I just buy stainless and call it a day.

[@burt1758]

This dude knows his shit. I'll watch his videos unlike others wrenching with denny, rainman dude, etc. Oh vgg awesome. Half ass customs is doing a 39 Dodge ground up fu*in fantastic work he's doing on that. I've been in the business for only 27 years. Keep up the great work uncle tony!!!

[@mdouglaswray]

I agree with you about Rustoleum - used since I was a kid and it lives up to its rep. Great video and useful advice!

[@JohnMcClain-p9t]

I've been doing this more than fifty years, never once thought about doing it other than with a spray bomb. I have a 292 going back together and I think I'm going to try it, that's a damned fine paint job you made of it. Thanks!

[@gurjindersingh199]

Absolutely love the quality of work you preformed. Brushing on rustoleum/ tremclad isn't that bad. The finish may not look as nice as a spray on but in areas like an engine block where you need durability and you need to push the paint into the pores of the cast iron I think brush on is definitely the way to go. I painted the interior of my gutted civic with a brush took a really long time but I did it that way because I couldn't afford to buy the spray cans up here in Canada it's close to $11 a rattle can. I didn't have a compressor at the time but I eventually bought one and painted the exterior of the car with an harbor freight hvlp spray gun

[@tonyhawthorne3222]

Here is an extra little tip for ya .If you put your can of paint can into some hot water and let the can get nice and warm it gives a better smoother finish ,less brush marks works on rattle cans too .I paint guitar bodies this way and you can't tell that they are brush painted .cheers from NZ ...

[@paulhare662]

You mentioned Tractor Supply. They have a brand of paint called "Majic", it can be thinned, hardener added and shot from a spray gun. If the directions are followed precisely, it gives an amazing finish. Oh, you missed a spot.

[@terrythomas790]

I saw it. It was in the freeze plug

[@Frank289100]

I'M ROUGHLY THE SAME AGE AS YOU TONY. OLD SCHOOL, YOU HEAT THE BLOCK WITH A TORCH FOR BETTER BONDING. BUT I NEVER REALIZED JUST HOW MUCH MOISTURE CAST IRON HOLDS AND YOUR DEMONSTRATION HERE JUST SHOWED IT, THAT I WASN'T AWARE OF. GREAT VIDEO!

[@mattnewby123]

That moisture comes from the torch too, from combustion of air. The heat burns away the oil residue in the pores...

[@SpecialAgentJamesAki]

That’s genius to use the torch before painting. I’m gonna try that on the next block or heads I paint. I’ve had good luck with the rattle cans so far. Rustoleum is the go to for me.

[@ripvanrevs]

I tried it on the drywall I was going to paint and it didn't work out so well.

[@SpecialAgentJamesAki]

@@ripvanrevs 🤣🤣🤣🤣

[@KK_on_KK]

@@ripvanrevs lol

[@mickeyrhodes2152]

Very good video, I must say whoever done your filming is top notch, no shaking, didn't give me motion sickness like a lot of videos do. Good job !!!

[@user-cl6dz7tw4o]

Tony, at the end of my Senior year in high school, our Industrial Arts teacher had all of us clean and re-paint all of the machines with a can of paint and by brush. The machines always looked great and the paint always looked thick and rich. With a brush, the bristles give the paint that little extra "nudge" to get into the pores of the cast iron. Thank you for all of your videos.

[@stuckinmygarage6220]

"nudge" 👍

[@rickybellamy8191]

Great video, I watched this 2 days ago and just got done today. Results were amazing! It's night and day from spray canning a paint job. It's thicker/denser, you see the quality. The gloss finish allows the block to be cleaned and wiped off. But be ready to work, the block will suck up the primer, you will need to go back after it dries and hit the bare metal spots. Same with the paint job, you will need a 2nd coat. Great video, I used a heat gun to chase moisture. I also have a spray bottle of gasoline, it will dry out the block and a big reason I didn't use a propane torch 😂 I went with the black gloss on a lq4. It came out so well that I'm going to do the oil pan and timing cover next.

[@superduty4556]

Can also use propane. I just tested it on a bare block I got back from machine shop. Incredible.

[@Papas220Garage]

I havee two years on my 5.9 Cummins diesel now and it looks awesome with no problems. I prepped like Tony and used the professional grade silver can 4:1:1 paint, thinner, epoxy hardner. Shot from my HF $19 garbage gun.

[@morelanmn]

I was involved rebuilding with a early Jaguar engine. She was so smooth and pretty. Come to find out that the Jag factory used body filler on the outside of the blocks to make them look so good.

[@vintage76vipergreenBeetle]

Didn't know that.

[@Prowbar]

on big castings like lathes and machine tools, a lot of filler is used also.

[@MrTheHillfolk]

@@Prowbar yeah I'm pretty sure I see some Bondo on our Bridgeport 😄

[@Prowbar]

@@MrTheHillfolk ya bet some places of the casting have like a 1/2" layer of Bondo haha

[@holeshot1721]

Its a sound and vibration deadner also

[@rfvc600r]

Uncle Tony, I own a Fiat 500 Abarth, I tuned it and I deliver pizza in it. Knowing that Fiat bought Chrysler, I put a Mopar sticker on my little Fiat and boy I have had the time of my life. Those Mopars of all generations play around when they see that decal. Ilearned that my little car is a lot faster than I realized and some of those Mopars sre absolutely killer. Too much fun. Before you peeps get your panties in a bunch, I own a proper Mopar. 2006 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4 with the Hemi on Fox shocks, DiabloSport and too much to list. I have learned so much from this channel the last couple years and I have applied things I learned and the way I think to my car, truck and motorcycle. I got bitching rides thanks to you UTG!! If only I can get out of California to buy a proper older car but until then the disease is raging, manifesting in other ways

[@stephenkrambeck6589]

I build engines professionally and I agree that engine enamel really isn’t that great, comes off very easy unless you apply several cans. I gotta do what my boss wants but when I do my own personal engines I do it this way, cheaper and better.

[@ZERONEINNOVATIONS]

This Rust-Oleum paint doesn't say it's heat resistant. But it works good?

[@RinegnProductions]

@@ZERONEINNOVATIONS lmao it’s really house paint tbh

[@cleveland2286]

@@ZERONEINNOVATIONS its maximum temperature is within normal operating temperature of the engine (250f). If you are exceeding that temp, chances are your engine is overheating.

[@DOORBELLBOY11]

Tony you are an Artist . Brushed paint on engine and calibers is a No brainer

[@brokentoolgarage]

Nice! I found the Van Sickle (tractor paint) is also really tough (even in rattle can). If you mix that stuff and add the hardener (not required) it adds more gloss.

[@sittinlow6787]

I used to paint all our little toys like go karts and mini bikes with them. That paint is tough!! Might see if it works good on motors

[@dougeaton2446]

I've used that rusty metal primer for years painting houses... works great to keep those old rusty nails from coming back through and ruining a new paint job, with out it you'd see those nails within a few days

[@HOMEWORK4.0]

You're channel rocks my man even being a GM guy!! Your knowledge is invaluable and always cross-make compatible! My next engine I do I will experiment with this method! I never even considered using a brush! Good call! Thanks!

[@ETA555]

5:00 I did this before I painted my B230F for my Volvo 240 and now 1 year later the paint still looks like new.

[@bajancanadian4231]

Loved the video. Spent a few mornings this week in eastern Kentucky pulling the 390 out of my papaw's 67 galaxie and tommorow I'm headed home to Michigan with the top end and covers in my car with the intent to clean em up and come back down in a month with it all repainted and ready to reassemble. Only problem is I already picked up a couple rattle cans of Rust-Oleum engine paint 😅. I'll definitely be using some of these tips and maybe end up stashing the cans and picking up some brush on. Thanks for a wonderful video

[@randallstewart8487]

What county in Eastern Ky,I am in Pike,got my old Jeep engine out, old paint stripped and cleaned up,was going to use Hi Heat rattle can and wasnt sure to use primer under spray can coat,I have changed my mind on the spray cans after this video and going to use the brush on Rustoleum on my jeep block,never thought about map torch on block,which makes sence,and a brush!

[@richardtomaszewski3569]

I've used all kinds of paints from rattle cans to bulk brush on cans (though I always spray those on also). I've always had good results provided I thoroughly cleaned the surface. He hit the nail on the head here! Hard to clean better than acetone and a torch! I also like brake cleaner but the new non-chlorinated stuff isn't as good as it used to be. Paints also take a looooooooong time to dry! I'm talking weeks maybe even months to achieve full hardness and chemical resistance under normal ambient conditions. Yes they are dry to the touch after 24-48 hours but they are still comparatively soft and will not have the chemical resistance. You either need to paint your parts well in advance of using them, bake them out, or at the vey least be very careful when handling freshly painted parts. Lastly, your paint job is only as good as what your painting over. Most new or rebuilt engines (at least the old cast iron ones obviously not the modern aluminum ones) come coated with some kind or paint. This coating may be good or it might be crap. If it junk you'll have to strip it but even if it is good you must still clean it just the same and scuff it up with a green scrubby or sand paper. I've always had good luck as long as I've followed these steps and I've always been bitten when I've tried to cut corners.

[@thomasheer825]

Tony I have a cheap method you may or may not like but it appears to work well, at least for me. Built a powder coat oven by converting an 250 gallon fuel tank into a oven, well I went a little overboard with mine but moving on. Used oven heater elements and a Process Control unit from Ebay. Final product cost was around $150 but I went a little crazy with mine. What I do is like you did heat the block up to 250 deg for about 20 mins, as you said you have all sorts of oils and crud in the block. And yes naptha works outstanding. then back in the oven again for a few minutes, several cycles. Then reheat the block to around 250 deg pull her out and hit it with powder coat of your pick, I use Columbia Coatings as they seem to be a quality product at a reasonable price. Give it several heavy coats and all is good. I use this a lot on air cooled engines and about the only issue so far is the cylinders and maybe the heads will eventually darken but with water cooled seems to hold for a shit load of time. As a added bennie Tony you can do wheels real easy. You can use a Harbor Freight spray outfit for most simple jobs but I broke down and bought a $500 unit for fancy stuff. Yes what you did is how I used to do it, just tried powder coat and loved the results.

[@thomasheer825]

@@rheidtech Lucky you, I got most of my general powder from the Bulk Clearance from Columbia Coating. Hey got some for just over a $1 a pound and others for $5, but as you know powder goes one hell of a long way. Often I use lacquer thinner, and found it is cheaper by the 5 gallon can from a auto parts store, about 60% of what it is at Walmart by the gallon.

[@sergeantmasson3669]

The reason that the original SBC became orange is because when Ed Cole first created it, his wife worked at Detroit Public Works, and she brought home some orange traffic enamel paint and Ed Cole wanted a bright color that would stand out in his '54 Chevy Belaire hardtop that he put it in.

[@The_R-n-I_Guy]

I've contemplated using implement paint on my car. It's cheap. And if it can last for years on an old tractor, it should be able to last on my old Buick. Plus, you can wet sand and buff it. Or even put clear coat on it if you want. As long as it's completely cured and all the solvents are evaporated out.

[@WhiteTrashMotorsports]

Done this with trail rigs and daily drivers use the harder too for a better shine.

[@fordilac]

I love single stage paint, been using it since my local parts store only mixes 2-stage paints since the mid 80's.

[@michaelvrooman5681]

I painted an old square body GMC in John Deere green and yellow 2 years ago. I used the TSC hardener in it. I keep It waxed and it still looks good. People notice and take pictures of it every where I go. Do the prep work right and you will get a decent looking job

[@chyanna6470]

that rustoleum is some good stuff, i painted a trailer almost 10 years ago, still looks good as the day as i painted it.

[@chrisgraham2904]

Great instruction. Nice to see I've been doing something right. I've had great results using a MAPP torch or an electric heat gun to get the moisture out of cast iron, followed by acetone or lacquer thinner cleaning, then Rust-O-Leum primer and gloss rust paint and always brushed applied. Great way to paint brake calipers.

[@DirtyDanMunicipalMan]

The standard rust oleum paint won’t burn off the calipers??

[@chrisgraham2904]

@@DirtyDanMunicipalMan No. Have never had an issue of burning, discoloring for flaking. I've usually done calipers and drums in fire red, or a bright yellow.

[@beest921]

Uncle Tony, I swear by Rusty Metal Primer! Like you, I've been using it for almost 25 years. I build show cars for a living and it makes wonderful weld through primer on pinchweld for quarter panels or other weld on parts. It works for that best if you let it sit for 48 to 72 hours. Found out by accident. Great video, I agree, brushing an engine with enamel is the way to go!

[@arduinoNube]

Channeling your inner Bob Ross I see. "Happy little casting numbers (trees)...". I love it!

[@Alteseisenschwein]

Paintbrushing like Bob Ross on a happy Engineblock. this guy is so cool! Gretings from Germany! Your Videos are marvelous!

[@williamokrasinski9840]

Thank you Tony for the great tips. I've been looking for (methods for dummies). And I've thought this would be the simplest method for me. This is for my 53 Ford tractor mostly in pieces. Engine been machined, all back together and rattle can primer. I've often thought of brush painting all the cast iron and I just don't think I can manage a spray gun nor have facilities. And "for dummies", I mean folks with limited experience like me. Thanks again.

[@jodygarcia9892]

Did you brush it own?

[@Raisen476]

Wow, all the years I've been dealing/building cars I've never even thought of brush painting a engine block! Great job thank you for the video!

[@fericyde]

This is why I love your videos man. Practical advice plus your experience. FYI, I have a 2000 Zinc yellow Mustang (it's 22 years old -- original owner here LOL) -- I blew some pretty decent money buying exact - matched caliper paint until by accident one day I discovered Rustoleum John Deere Yellow as simply a darker shade of the same color (pretty hard to match otherwise). On calipers -- it's perfect. Bonus: Stuff is darn near indestructible. Can't say that about other products. Pennies on the dollar and a better choice. Who da thunk it? Anyway, I'm going to be using your advice about the rusty metal primer and paint. Thanks again.

[@JohnSmith-wj2wd]

Although the torch trick definitely works, what you're actually seeing is the condensation caused by the torch itself. You'll see that if you hit an area a second time that you've already done which has cooled down a bit, that it will show the same effect once more. You can repeat this indefinitely. That said however, it is a very good indication of where you have burnt away all the residue. Just beware that you don't burn through 6 canisters of gas because you think that oil keeps coming out. One pass is enough.

[@HarleyHawk1]

Very nice! I'll have to try that next time. I am a fan of the Pontiac Blue block color myself. Good video Uncle Tony

[@MrTheHillfolk]

Haha I did an engine up with the early Pontiac blue ,looked pretty sharp. It was a lil 4 cylinder though. Blue pan and block , semi gloss black head ,and blue valve cover and the rest of the accessories in a flat or semi gloss black. Good times.

[@jayh9635]

The prep work you did was on point! If you guys do want to spray bomb your engine? Follow the map gas and acetone steps! For the primer... Get etching primer from SEM! Let it flash for a half hour. Then apply any color high heat engine enamel and follow the instructions. I use a heavy duty heat gun. And it will last years and years!

[@OllamhDrab]

Also I assume it beats the Dulicolor turquiose I put on some bare spots on my 318 with like a wire brush and probably Rustoleum primer while I was waiting for a friend to come back with the darn engine hoist. :) Later that remaining engine paint ended up looking surprisingly good on a Stratocaster. :)

[@YTjndallas]

I’m glad I clicked this. The torch trick is really great ! Makes sense and I never would’ve thought of it.

[@JU57US]

Very interesting to see your video on this! I just painted my engine a couple months ago after doing as much research as possible. I didn't want a chipping, flaking mess. Some things I did different and why: 1) Degreased with Dawn Power Spray and pressure washer, with a stiff bristled plastic brush. 2) I went over my engine with a heat gun instead of a MAP torch. No reason, just the heat gun was ready to go and I didn't think of using the MAP gas. It worked really well I think. 3) No primer on cast iron. This keeps the paint coat thin and allows heat to escape through it rather than being sealed in, which helps keep the paint looking good. Aluminum parts, I'd definitely use self-etching primer. 4) Mix catalyst hardener in with your Rustoleum tractor/implement paint and acetone, and spray with a paint gun. This atomizes the paint, allowing it to go on very thin. Rattle cans tend to have much larger droplets. 5) Let the paint cure according to Mfg directions before you go messing with building the engine. (you probably do this too) I couldn't be happier with the outcome. Since mine is a Cummins engine, I went with International Harvester Red as my color. It's pretty close to Cummins red, just a little darker which I like. All of my supplies came from Tractor Supply (paint, catalyst, acetone) or Harbor Freight (cheap paint spray gun). You do need a solid air compressor to spray it though. But even a small one can do, it just takes longer because you have to let it recover pressure.

[@joeayers3777]

Heat gun probably works better, there's no water from the mapp gas combustion, be drier

[@gpye2683]

I've read that too about skipping the primer because it ends up being too thick and once the block heats up it just flakes off. Like the mapp gas trick!

[@JU57US]

@Foghorn Leghorn You don't "completely butcher the composition of the paint" when you use catalyst hardener, japan drier, or things like that - most of which are made by the same manufacturer - or when you use acetone as a reducer for spraying (many times acetone is actually manufacturer recommended anyway). The good that can come from waiting for the paint to cure, rather than just be dry to the touch, is that it's much, much more durable of a surface and less likely to scratch, flake or chip when you're bolting on parts. If you're implying that you've used these products to the detriment of your paint job, I can only point to user error.

[@JU57US]

@Foghorn Leghorn of course you wouldn't want me to respond to that statement, as if that's the end-all be-all of painting 😂. If you don't believe me, you can do some online research and/or contact the manufacturer yourself. Or just keep your head in the sand so you can feel better about being a keyboard warrior. Tell me you haven't painted very much without telling me you haven't painted very much 😆😆🤣.

[@JU57US]

@Foghorn Leghorn idk what you're waiting for because I already answered you. The paint can doesn't need to have instructions to use hardener or acetone. That's what's called a "red herring argument" and it's either being used by you to be deceptive because your ego can't take that you're wrong, or it's being used by you just because you're too dense to understand any better. ¯⁠\⁠_⁠(⁠ツ⁠)⁠_⁠/⁠¯ By the way, yes, the hardener contains instructions to add to the paint, and if you contact the manufacturer they will tell you it's acceptable to use acetone as a reducer.

[@imagri1]

Man I’ve watched this video more times now than possibly any other video. You’re like the bob ross of big blocks my man!

[@elopez4225]

I will definitely use this method on my next build. Great video!

[@xrsroofingsolutionscanada2151]

I sandblasted ($40 in glass) degreased ($10) rinsed with water, air dried and towel dried, acetone to prevent instant rusting. Waited an hour and then I used 900* calliper paint ($40) rather then 500* engine paint. Looks great, paint is strong. $90 plus alot of time.

[@diogenes9809]

Painter here, a big reason the brush on enamels are so much better than rattle cans are safety regulations. Those enamels can in theory be thinned and run through a gun, but they are much more dangerous to be breathing a mist of than what they put in cans. From experience, he's absolutely right that this is basically as good as an industrial grade sprayed finish, these paints flow out and smooth from brushed really well. Only time i'd recomend taking the leap and buying true industrial grade gun paint is if you have a proper full face respirator, with the real paint filters (about 3x the weight and 20x the price of n95 or p100), and a safe place to spray them, even then, only if its a big enough job (whole tractor etc) that you can't do it with a brush. I cant stress enough about serious gun paint though, the stuff is nasty. I once did a machine outdoors just in a half mask (no eye protection, leaks around the nose) and felt like i had a flu for the rest of the day, had watering eyes, and got nosebleeds for several days, never had one in my life till then, not doing that again. No regrets with a brush though and it really lasts.

[@mkm692]

There’s something satisfying about painting an engine block when you get done with it and it’s in the car you realize it was all worth it.

[@BobSmith-mc7uq]

Hard to beat rustoleum brush on! Been using it for a few years, beats ANY spray on.

[@MrTheHillfolk]

I do the same ,but I try and choose a color that comes in a spray can also. That way I can lightly sand any brush marks out and give a nice glossy top coat. And hopefully if that gets chipped ,you'll see the same brush on color underneath.

[@ScurvySquirrel]

I really appreciate this tip, I'm actually pulling my first engine I'm rebuilding out of my 1991 Ford F150 XLT Lariat 4x4 with a 5.0 302 V8 and I have to say that I've been watching all your videos to help me along the way. Also thank u for throwing in that Ford Color Blue after u talked about the Hemi Orange in this video cause that's the color I want to pant my engine is Ford Blue...... Anyways thank u for all your knowledge and videos seriously, I know myself and a Million others really appreciate it.