Understanding An Old School Fuse Box

[@1406Kennedy]

Thanking you in 2024!! The apartment my husband and I live in is 40 years old, and I blew a fuse this morning for the first time! This video was super helpful at calming my nerves around changing 🥰

[@PhoenixPhenom16]

Both of my parents are gone, single momma. Ours blew last night. Something did anyways, lol. About to hit the hardware store, thank you for helping those of us who don't have any help!!! ❤🥰 this stuff sticks with ya forever!

[@enduringcharm]

You got this!

[@PhoenixPhenom16]

@@enduringcharm its fixed! Thank you!

[@BethyOsSpongebob]

in the same boat but in the future :) i appreciate the "dads" out there answering all of my "dad, how do i"? Now that mine is passed

[@irissnyder1456]

Thank you for posting this, everything I read said I needed to unplug everything - which is difficult since the plug is behind the refrigerator, but after watching you unscrew the fuse controlling the light without blowing up the house, I felt comfortable enough to replace mine.

[@elw2827]

Thank you bc I'm in an old Apt. Blog with 20 amp fuses in my unit. I was afraid to change a blown fuse but was successful after watching this video...Girl Power

[@doualamitchell4601]

Hello I have a question, was your lights flickering prior to all the electricity going out? And was ur sockets also not working

[@xsietube]

Marys Line1969 125v fuse? They should be rated by amperage. It’s not safe to replace a fuse with something different/unknown. Did you read the original fuse wrong? Do you still have it?

[@venichen1]

There's still a good number of homes in my city that still has this type of fuse box. It's also a bit on the expensive side to upgrade to a breaker box as (I believe) local regs require the whole home's wiring to be redone up to modern code if you decide to upgrade to a breaker box, so a lot of older homes kept this style of fuse box.

[@enduringcharm]

In my area a typical fusebox to breakerbox upgrade is around $1500 or so. You do not need to upgrade the wiring in the entire house unless you have something really old, such as bare wire knob-and-tube circuits. It may also make sense to upgrade the wiring depending on condition, but it isn't a requirement as long as the existing wiring is safe.

[@johnreskusich2324]

@@enduringcharm THe problem is that the wiring in most of these houses(like mine) are questionable. You don't want to touch the wiring because it's a delicate ecosystem. Fabric wrapped wires stapled into wood 70 years ago. No doubt, it's not a safe thing. But, it's expensive and super inconvenient to address and it's grandfathered in so people just live with it and are really careful. Inevitably, old wiring shorts out and hopefully it doesn't start a fire. I hate it. I'm not in the position to replace it all or replace the fuse box. But, it's going to be a priority in life with the dependency AC has on these systems and the increased need for AC to work properly. I've had one line short. Turned out to be a few feet from the fuse box. Personally, lower current solutions such as led lighting are becoming increasingly attractive to avoid stressing these systems. The video has it right. Modern living is too much a stress on these older systems.

[@enduringcharm]

@johnreskusich2324 I can't disagree with you, the wiring originally installed in the 40s, 50s and even 60s can deteriorate just from time and the heat in enclosed spaces. And, of course, rodents can do a number. Many times I have struggled in an old box to determine which wire is neutral and which is hot until I pull out a meter. Even then you need to check for reverse polarity upstream. Electrical and plumbing systems don't necessarily age well. But, the cost of rewiring, which includes the labor and materials plus the requirement to update to current codes, can be staggeringly high. In my entire career I can't recall a single homeowner choosing to update the entire house at once unless it was a complete gut-job. Typically they will do a kitchen and a bath one at a time, and the other rooms don't get attention.

[@xphillyfan]

Dude thank you! 1.] Wasn't sure my house could only have a fuse box;so I spent hour looking for my breaker box 2.] You saved me about 65-100$ doing it myself instead of having an electrician come out. So for that I thank you for your knowledge shared

[@Delita45]

Very informative, thank you. My brother plugged in a sketchy 1800W AC without testing it first and blew half the rooms in our apartment, this helped a lot because I didn't even realize we had the bulbs

[@garrisonmcgrath6370]

Always love helpful youtube tutorials, thanks for saving my brother and I from some minor electrical frustrations

[@richardhall9815]

The top two fuse pullouts are both 240V (each one will have 2 fuses). The feed coming in from the street goes into the left pullout (which is 60 amps I'm guessing, based on the label on the door of the panel), which powers the rest of the panel. The right pullout is for a 240V appliance circuit, typically an electric stove.

[@watching99134]

Any tips on how to get the fuses in and out? (I bent the copper arms back and now I can't get them straight again to push the whole thing back in).

[@aeonschoir]

Thank you for the explanation! Very helpful. Found this ancient technology in my house today, needed the knowhow.

[@mattcasdorph]

Just so you know if someone hasn't already stated, screw in fuses are still sold and a little extra tip, you can get breaker fuses, they are essentially little breakers that screw into the fuse slot and acts like a breaker, it has a little button that you press if it trips. They are a little more expensive but worth it if you dont have to purchase regular fuses. I have a fuse panel on my house built in 1962, I would rather have a breaker panel but the house isnt that great of condition anyway and rather than replace it I may just start a new house and put a breaker panel in it. Current house was all block walls and broke footer just cracking all over.

[@enduringcharm]

Interesting--I've never seen those hybrid fuse/breakers before. As noted before, there are geographic pockets of the country where fuses are more prevalent and that's where you probably find more variety for sale locally. In my area of NJ fuses are now relatively rare since most folks have upgraded or always had breaker boxes.

[@mattcasdorph]

enduringcharm Amazon I believe is where I purchased my breaker fuse, cant remember off the top of my head the price

[@mattcasdorph]

www.amazon.com/Bussmann-BP-MB-20-Circuit-Breaker/dp/B000GAS1GY/ref=sr_1_1?s=lamps-light&ie=UTF8&qid=1524187776&sr=1-1&keywords=breaker+fuse&refinements=p_89%3ABussmann Bussman makes them, I seen 15amp and 20amp

[@prestonwilliams9531]

Matt Casdorph thanks for that info, I didn't know they even had something like that! that's cool, so its like a fuse but when tripped can just be pressed? our house is really old, from like the 1820s so I get it when you say whats the point in doing a total upgrade for a breaker box. in this economy we all cant just afford it. I'm def gonna look into those, thanks!

[@BobbaFett312]

5 years later, this comment still helping people lol, i just bought few of those, nice!

[@bryanmcavoy5302]

Very informative. Thank you. I bought a Federal Pacific fuse box assembly at an auction because it looked cool, but wasn't sure how it worked (or heck, exactly what it was). Makes a nice man cave item.

[@dw5107]

Thank you for making this. Helps real people.

[@rodneydawn4134]

very nice to see videos still teaching this. I have a really nice well maintained fuse box here. Its 100 amp 120/240 and has 3 240v cartrighe fuse pullouts, 10 screw in edison base fuses, and the big main with two 100a cartrige fuses. The 50a 240 is the water heater, and the tow 30a 240v circuits feed sub panels for a large window ac and power in the workshop. 100 amp service is plenty adequate, as its powered from a single 10500w surge/8500w continuous generator. I actually installed the 100 amp fuse panel myself to replace an existing 110v 30 amp (two screw fuses) service when I replaced the old kohler light plant with the modern Honda. I also replaced the old Knob and tube wire with modern romex at that time. One thing I recommend, for anyone using fuses and on generator power, use the 'fast blow' fuses in as many circuits as possible, as while this may cost more in replacing fuses, it will also help protect your (likely expensive) generator. and of course make sure to use the proper size fuse for each circuit. I dont plan on further upgrading. I've always preferred fuses anyway, but also a fellow off-gridder who upgraded to a modern breaker panel said he uses more gas (same generator, and roughly similar electrical demands) so yeah I'll stick to fuses, and save that extra half gallon a day for blasting the A/C when its really hot like it is now.

[@joshhill4903]

Heh, lightswitch went out, went to flip the breaker (at my uncles) and ran into this for the first time. I had worked in an industrial building and seen the large standalone fuses (and im talking these were huge by my standards) but never saw where they belonged. Thanks for the info!!

[@Sparky-ww5re]

Reminds me of the box in an estate sale home I helped to redo the wiring and plumbing. Very interesting history to the home. About 7 years ago. The home in question was built in 1887, originally had gas lighting. The 60 amp box similar to this one had the installation date 10/'52. The home still had the 1953 kelvinator electric range. The earliest that home could have gotten electricity was 1908, when we went to replace the old galvanized iron plumbing on the 2nd level, which was originally an attic but the home had been extended over the years, found behind the wooden wall panelling, what used to be the original service panel to the house: mounted in a wooden like box lined with asbestos was a knife switch and 3 ceramic edison fuse holders, fused on both the hot and neutral, the ceramic block had the year 1908 stamped on it. 6 fuses together, but 3 circuits feeding the whole house, again, because the hot AND neutral were fused. And the two wires on the outer wall going to the knife switch were 10 awg if I remember correctly. Meaning the home originally had a 120 volt 30 amp main service. But because the house was 2 miles from town, we are not sure exactly when it was electrified, but we suspect it may have been in the later 1910s or early 1920s. So with the 240 volt 60 amp fuse box in the basement from 1952 and the 1953 electric stove, we suspect the homeowner had the service upgrade to 240 volts 60 amps for the electric range. Also found some knob and tube spliced with romex in the wall (fire hazard!) Now home has a modern 200 amp square D breaker box. Pretty interesting about the known dates. Lol

[@enduringcharm]

I'm also fascinated by older installations of electric, plumbing and even framing. Put me in an old house and I head straight to the basement! The knob and tube I don't see live anymore, but I do find the remnants. It seems crazy that bare wires seemed like a good idea at one time!

[@Sparky-ww5re]

@@enduringcharm I know right. You and I must have a lot in common about old stuff. Not only knob and tube, but the wooden fuse box lined with asbestos we found in the attic of that 1887 estate with a knife switch dating 1908, I guess the idea was asbestos was fireproof so that in case of an electrical failure it would be less likely to spread. And probably the attic seemed like a good place for safety sake as well, to keep curious little boys away from it, that thing was dangerous enough for adults, let alone children. But again, the abandoned black iron pipes in the wall meant the home originally has gas lighting, so the new fangled electric light bulb must have been cutting edge technology then, like having the new iPhone X. Crazy to think of it that way in the 1910s and 1920s.

[@thigson189]

Cool story.

[@KindCountsDeb3773]

YOU post is exactly why I call an electrician to change a light bulb. lol

[@potatocore]

Thank you so much! One of ours blew while the dryer was going. I was able to replace the fuse and get it back up and running. 👍👍

[@brokendreamsandrevelations1193]

These things are still all over the place in Chicago because the city's electrical code incentivises them. The code was negociated with union electricians, and they wanted more fuse boxes because they're harder to install and maintain, leading to more work hours for them. There's even a decent amount of new ones in the suburbs, since city-based electricians and engineers go there for work on occasion and don't know how to work with anything but fuse boxes.

[@aquikhione]

many thanks for the video, super helpful as I couldn’t figure out what I was looking at haha

[@sajid2020]

Many thanks, John for your useful video. I live in an old 1950s apt building in NYC and have one of these in my apartment. I am not sure if I used the right fuse (20 vs. 15 amps) but one of the fuses blew and I replaced with a 20 amp fuse but it’s causing everything to flicker/ fans making a sizzling sound/ power strips to blow. For safety I removed the fuse altogether which has left a portion of my apartment / power outlets without power. I need to convert to a breaker box but not having luck finding a reasonable quote. Quotes are varying from 500-1200 USD for a 4 circuit conversion.

[@enduringcharm]

Obviously it's tough for me to try and diagnose your problem from here, and there could be many issues. The reason your original fuse blew is likely related to the flickering you describe with the new fuse. It's possible you didn't screw in the new fuse securely enough and you had a loose connection there, but more likely you have a loose connection somewhere else in the circuit. It could be a loose screw terminal on an outlet, or a loose wire nut in a box somewhere. That loose connection somewhere in the circuit can cause arcing as well as flickering lights so it's fortunate that the original fuse did blow. For a 1950s fuse box in an apartment, the circuit is almost certainly a 15 amp, not a 20. Anyway, prices for electrical work can vary widely across the country, which is why I typically don't get into cost estimates here. However, I happen to work in NJ, so I can tell you that the quotes you are getting are actually quite reasonable. In my area a small fusebox replacement could be $1200-1400 and it would not be unexpected that you would also need additional wiring replacement, replaced receptacles, and some work to find that loose connection in the bad circuit. You didn't mention if you own or rent the apartment. I'm always a bit baffled by the way the NYC rental system works (or doesn't work) but in the rest of the world, it would be the owner's responsibility to pay for a replacement box or at least for repair of the faulty circuit, not the renter. So if you rent I would pursue a conversation with the landlord, who presumably doesn't want a fire hazard in his building.

[@geomundi8333]

great suggestions. I was weedwhacker and hit my extension cord in barn; blowing the fuse. Frist time in 12 years I had to replace fuse; and this was good primer on what they are. My house is breakers, so I've not done this before.

[@soloh5589]

Thank you very much for the video I actually have to work on one of those in the next few days Your video was a refresher course from what I learned in class once again thanks

[@Skyekitty]

This was really great. I need to change the fuse for my heating, and nothing is properly labeled but I can see the burnt fuse. Do I need to turn anything off before changing out the fuse with the new one?

[@enduringcharm]

It's not strictly necessary, but it's always a good idea to shut down anything on the circuit before installing a new fuse. Electronics can be sensitive to power interruptions, but also it's good to know why the fuse blew in the first place. By turning things on one at a time you can determine if one item is causing a problem.

[@WellbredNfedKembleTV]

Thanks. Appreciate your concise explanations. Needed to know if THE BASES OF GLASS FUSES IN THE SAME BOX on a range/stove THE SAME SIZE or do they change according to amperage? My fridge and a 2 watt lamp are powered by the 15 amp outlet on top of my range. Didn't unplug the lamp because I was only changing the harp and not opening it. Took the WIZ bulb out and managed to cause a spark in the lamp socket. The fuse in the stove's box of course blew. The MAX possible draw isn't even 8 amps-INTERMITTENT at that. So long as I don't draw more than 15 amps is there any reason I can't sub in one of the 20 amp fuses till the stores are open tomorrow? Cheerz

[@fatimamontoya3418]

This video helped me to much. I've been watching other videos, but this resolved my problem. Thank you so much for sharing this.

[@stevehaare3343]

very good video, glad to see that I'm not the only one that always picks the fuse/breaker that kills the lights that I need. my 1950's house has had it main fuse box replaced with circuit breakers, thought that I'd be good to go, then I found a secondary box in the attic that still has fuses. Only 4 circits but they all had 30 amp fuses and I'm pretty sure that it ain't 10AWG so I'll be buying new small fuses tomorrow and hoping that none of them blow.

[@enduringcharm]

I see that a lot--secondary fuseboxes were put in as a way to expand service, and they are often located in oddball areas. Good for you for checking on the fuse capacity versus wiring gauge.

[@jeffk7734]

My great grandmother lived in a four unit apartment house that was built in 1924, according to a search I did on line some time ago. I remember one Christmas my aunt and I were there, and my great grandmother demanded that we not turn the tree lights on because she was afraid of a fuse blowing. Well, we turned the Christmas lights on and they worked without incident. This house is located in Grosse Pointe Park, Michigan, and half of the house was in Detroit and half was in Grosse Pointe Park. I had lots of good memories there, and me being a little kid wanting to explore I wanted badly to check out the basement, and eventually did years later. My great grandmother didn’t want me going down there either, because I guess there was a problem with mice.

[@Jjhillb]

Thanks John looking into a house with a fuse box which I would need to update but glad to have some knowledge in the meantime

[@ashleyevelynmorse6885]

Thank-You, Hope I don't catch on fire tonight waiting to go to Home Depot to get the right size fuse.

[@teelee7610]

i moved into a house that had fuse box, im planning to upgrade but cant at moment and needed to know how turn it off and on, i already knew but i needed confirmation from a pro. thanks

[@shabutir1820]

Also be careful, fuses can get pretty hot depending on the load!

[@Truesk8er1]

Hey is it normal for them to get warm fairly hot under load? Our fuse from the air conditioning unit and 2 TVs are making it warm. 20 amp fuse with 12gauge wire

[@enduringcharm]

@@Truesk8er1 As you approach the upper end of a fuse or breaker's capacity it is likely to get warmer. An air conditioner is a heavy draw on a circuit, and older units might be drawing 15-20 amps on their own. Probably your circuit is nearly maxed out when you add in the TVS and whatever else is on that circuit. This is actually why we have fuses and breakers--they should blow or trip before the heat builds up hot enough to start a fire.

[@Truesk8er1]

@@enduringcharm hey thanks alot man appreciate the response 🙏

[@davidia8000]

Thank you very much!. I was always tempted to put a light bulb instead of the fuse in my grandma's house

[@PrettyFly4aWi-Fi]

OMG great video. you answered 100 plus questions i had. Go Oilers's Go! TY Charm 😜 Seven years later.

[@jroymich]

Trouble shooting: remove the fuse screw in a light bulb, if it burns you have a hot too ground short-find it. Fuse blows for no reason? Check the screw area in the center of the fuse housing if it is discolored probably loose from excessive heat Remove the main and tighten up the screw in the center of the fuse holder screw. No work? change to a small breaker unit or rewire the house. Replacement for fuses are standard fuses or breaker fuses with a pop out button circuit breaker Cooper Bussmann 20-Amp Fast Acting Plug Fuse (Lowes and other places) Another fuse to use is (Fusetrons) a one way fuse Screw in device that prevents a larger fuse from being used. When inserted they will not unscrew and a standard fuse will not work. Fusetron base fuses only.

[@TheSeanUhTron]

When I moved into my 1949 house, I found the fuse box loaded up with 30A fuses. It's also a Federal Noark box. Contrary to popular belief, normal breakers and fuses have no difference in safety. Breakers are just more convenient to reset. However GFCI and AFCI breakers are safer since they protect from additional electrical hazards.

[@erniethecat5621]

Sean Place Don't breakers wait a while before flipping off were a fuse goes off instantly? Correct me if I am wrong.

[@Progrocker70]

That is true. Fuses provide the same level of safety as a circuit breaker. That is, provided the correct size fuses are used. The issue with fuses is the human factor, most people don't understand them and the need to use the correct size. Usually they didn't have enough circuits, typically just 4 -8. Instead of adding circuits or replacing the panel people just put 30's in there to stop them from blowing so often, creating a fire hazard.

[@enduringcharm]

Well said. Breakers are typically more human-proof because it takes more effort to replace one with the wrong capacity. Not that I haven't seen it!

[@donaldbrodigan608]

The yellow wire in electrical panel

[@threephase69]

Fuses are quicker and safer to open and protect the circuit.

[@ToothpickMan11]

I've been told the old fuse boxes are actually safer as long as you're using the correct fuses depending on the wire, because they can blow faster than a breaker trips. Just bought a house that uses an old fuse panel like this and they had all of them swapped to 30 amp fuses but I found some spares in a cabinet that were 15 amp, immediately swapped all of them back down to the 15 amp fuses. Back then people didn't have a lot of electronics and appliances actually drew more than they do today, but today appliances actually draw less and the difference is we have more smaller devices that depend on electricity in our everyday lives like TV's and game systems. 15 amps should easily be able to handle lights and TV's, etc. but when you're running lets say a microwave or a washer / dryer, vacuum cleaner you will likely have to run them one at a time to avoid blowing the fuses. You can find out how many amps a device draws by dividing the wattage by the voltage, for example 1500w / 120v = 12.5 amps so you know if you have to run a 15 amp fuse you're getting close to your limit. While yes it may be annoying that you may have to replace the fuse because you can't run everything at once, just remember it's keeping your house from burning down and the fuse blowing is a GOOD thing!. While expensive ($10 a piece) you can get those fuses with a push button to reset them so you don't have to keep replacing them.

[@enduringcharm]

That's kind of a silly argument that fuses are superior to breakers because of trip speed. For one thing, fuses are inevitably in a much older installation so the aging wiring, oxidized terminals and missing ground connections are likely to be as much of an issue as the fuses themselves. Modern era breakers have an excellent record when installed correctly, and the newest arc-fault breakers provide protection unavailable on breakers. The reality is that electrical installations are not forever. They need to be maintained and updated after decades of use to replacing aging components and to bring the installation up to modern code standards. Of course, fuses with push-button reset are just mini-breakers. You were smart to replace your 30 ampers with 15 ampers, since it highly unlikely the circuits were run with 10 gauge wire!

[@ToothpickMan11]

@@enduringcharm There's no doubt the old fuse panels are aging and becoming more prone to issues, but in a modern breaker parts have to move before it cuts the connection where as a fuse blows almost instantaneously, I've had newer breakers (installed early to mid 2000's) only partially trip. I would definitely love to replace the wiring and fuse box but unfortunately that's going to be in the thousands, I think even the wire coming into the house is aluminum but the wire in the fuse box running throughout the house looks like copper, but its the black jacket stuff.

[@enduringcharm]

Of course, I understand your dilemma with cost. But to be clear about the safety of breakers versus fuses-- a fuse may blow some milliseconds faster than a breaker in some instances, but we shouldn't confuse that marginal speed with additional safety. Breakers, which use electromagnetic principles to disconnect the power when needed, are not just more convenient to use. They are safer because they don't expose the user to electrical contacts in use, they are able to provide arc-fault and ground fault protection, and they don't allow a homeowner to accidentally install the wrong amperage after tripping. There have been faulty breakers in the history of the product, but that doesn't reflect on every manufacturer. Put another way, if you win the lottery I think you'll be safer replacing your fusebox with a breaker box, even if you lose a few milliseconds.

[@ToothpickMan11]

@@enduringcharm Yeah I understand what you're saying, unscrewing the fuse to replace it makes me a bit nervous and if someone doesn't understand what they're dealing with they could install the wrong fuse creating a very dangerous situation. Upgrading the fuse box to a standard breaker box is the plan down the road but the wiring concerns me more than the box as the house was built in the 40's, it's extremely common for houses in this area to still have old wiring. The good thing is that the water heater and fridge are running off a separate breaker panel with newer wiring running from the main instead of the fuse box.

[@Progrocker70]

@@ToothpickMan11 Lack of circuits, and lack of space to add circuits is also big issue with most fuse panels. Most only have 4 to 8 circuit spaces and no room to expand. Even a small home with gas stove, dryer and water heater and no central A/C is going to need at least a dozen 110 volt circuits. With only a half dozen or less circuits means that those few circuits are going to be frequently overloading and blowing fuses. Subpanels can be added for additional circuits but it's tricky to do with a fuse panel. Some later 100 amp and larger fuse panels from the 60s and 70s did have a lot of circuit spaces, and some even were expandable with fuse socket modules you added like you would a breaker to a breaker panel. If you have a larger panel in good shape with a lot of spaces you're ok. You're going to be far less apt to overloading circuits on these. More circuits = less overloading = less blown fuses.

[@jensen5668]

Dude thank you very much that was very instructive and informative for us younger cats!

[@johnnyhawk329]

My house built in the 60s has a 12 circuit 100 amp fuse box. Still works great. No problems.

[@enduringcharm]

Fuses will still work fine, but typically what triggers a move to a new breaker box is the limited capacity of the old fusebox or the need to replace old, degraded wiring. Not only has the demand for electrical circuits greatly increased in modern life, the electrical codes now require more circuits and receptacles. So doing a kitchen remodel, for example, often requires adding more circuits.

[@DragonKing386]

Thanks because I was thinking you just pull them straight out like a regular fuse. I believe this house has a second fuse box somewhere because there was no main fuse but I have to find it. I think it's outside and hopefully not under this house since this house is in Mississippi (below sea level) and if it did have a basement or cellar that means it's open and disconnected from the house (it means air flows under the house and into the opening, like digging a hole then placing a house on top of it to keep the ground dry enough so the cement walls will stay dry and not crumble).

[@Khaos-with-Kati]

Thank you for making this video!!!! This really helped me today!

[@lynch42o]

Homes in Santa Barbara still have these, my grandmas old house which is about 100 years old, looked even older than this one. I use to have to switch out those glass fuses

[@enduringcharm]

Yeah, they can continue to function just fine as long as you can buy the fuses.

[@Rpvc5542]

Hi! If one of the inserts where you screw in the fuse has no voltage, how is that changed? Does one change the fuses in the larger fuse box with the handle?

[@enduringcharm]

I'm not sure what you're asking, but I gather you have a circuit which does not work despite changing a fuse? You have to understand that there are many different versions of fuseboxes and many ways to wire a circuit, so it's difficult to give generic advice. If the rest of the circuits in your house are working and just one is not, then it's likely that the problem is within that circuit itself. So you could have a loose or failed connection in the fusebox at that fuse socket, or you could have a failed connection in a box somewhere else in the circuit. You have to trace it down methodically with a meter to find where the voltage is lost.

[@Rebel9668]

If you live in Kentucky or Indiana fuse boxes in houses are still quite common in older homes. I've lived in many that had them. In fact I still have a fuse box in my garage for the power out there, though it has the smaller base "S" type fuses in it.

[@enduringcharm]

Yeah, there are definitely pockets of older homes in some areas with original electrical and plumbing systems still chugging along.

[@Progrocker70]

The "newest" fuse panel I've seen was in a house built in 1974. It had 150A main blade cartridge fuses, with four 240 V pullouts and 20 plug fuse circuits! All the fuses were Type S, mostly 20A with 12 gauge wire. Square D panel in excellent condtion. There was also room to add fuse modules for more circuits. This was probably one of the last ones installed. Judging by the dust and cobwebs on the spare fuses, and with many circuits I'd say blown fuses were few and far between

[@prestonwilliams9531]

same here in rural PA, these types of fuse boxes are VERY common here, with the houses being so old, most of the time you would need more work done than just replacing a fuse box with a breaker box, especially when a house like my is from the 1820s. trouble is electrical work is expensive especially with the economy being so bad, its not uncommon for us to put all that off for other things, especially when these still do work, but ever since we have gotten the new smart meter on the side of the house, we have been having a lot of problems with fuses blowing, I know with the computers, cell phones, and all our other stuff plugged in, it seems to be causing more fuses to blow. just sucks!

[@amberlayton5558]

Thank you- that was so helpful! My house is old and has both a breaker box in basement and an old fuse box upstairs in the pantry. i tried shutting off power at breaker box to switch out a light fixture and of course the power didn't go out where i needed it to :/ . I did a little investigating and found your video and am now going to attempt to shut off power through fuse box! Wish me luck :p

[@enduringcharm]

Good luck--I think you'll be fine.

[@wessjester2309]

This is a really important video I'm very grateful you made

[@xTnAxSirQuill]

Wonder if it would be possible to hook a central heat to a twist in fuse box. We were told we couldn't use our central heat with this type of box so we have been using heaters which is killing our light bill.

[@enduringcharm]

I'm not sure what was meant by that assertion to you, or exactly what you mean by central heat. Fuse boxes in general are capable of handling significant power demands, including 240 volt service. If you already have a heating system in place presumably it was wired and working at some point? If you are trying to add a central heating system it's possible that your fuse box doesn't have enough capacity, in which case you'd need to add a second box or swap out for a modern breaker box.

[@xfiore85x]

How do I know which one is the one I have to change ? I checked and I have like 7 of Thais small bulb but don’t know which one needs to be changed 😩

[@enduringcharm]

In the middle of a glass fuse is a window of sorts. Under that window is a metal strip which is solid if the fuse is working. When a fuse "blows" that strip melts away, which is what cuts power. If you have a blown fuse, look for the one missing that strip. It is possible to have a failed fuse and that strip appears intact, but that's rare. If you still can't see, you can always swap fuses around until the circuit comes back up or the problem moves to a different circuit when you move the fuse.

[@xfiore85x]

@@enduringcharm thank you very much wish us luck … ☺️☺️

[@xfiore85x]

@@enduringcharm thanks very much we have light again ☺️☺️☺️ my husband did bought the wrong size at first was supposed to be a W but then went back and got the right one , it was easy well you made it easy . Thanks a lot

[@enduringcharm]

That's great to hear--glad it worked out!

[@antoniomunoz7810]

Good video and educational. What is the grease you use that makes the main breakers easier to slide in and out? Thanks

[@enduringcharm]

You might be referring to dielectric grease, which is actually meant to protect contacts from corrosion not to lubricate.

[@scottmckillop4762]

My old glass fuses are partially covered by a black plastic yoke. No obvious way to release the plastic yoke. I know the release is likely super simple. Can you suggest?

[@vivianwilliams3854]

Thank you for this I only could pulled out only one the other one i couldn't. Any advice for this?

[@enduringcharm]

Hard to offer advice from afar on this one. Sometimes it's better to give a quick yank, sometimes it's better to pull slowly with even pressure. You could try both methods.

[@prestonwilliams9531]

I live in rural PA and fuse boxes like this are common around here, ever since they changed to the new smart meters on the side of the house I have been having problems with fuses blowing, total pain in the butt, its very true though It seems to blow when we have lots of things plugged in like the computer, fan, tablet, and 2 lights, or in the winter when we have the space heater plugged in. they still sell the glass fuses here as many old houses still have these types of fuse boxes still. I think more people here would replace them, but with the economy being the way it is, its tough to have the money for things like replacing fuse boxes, and its easily pushed aside. our house is very old like 1820s old lol

[@Progrocker70]

Problem with most older fuse boxes is lack of circuits, and no room to expand and add circuits. A house today, even if all the major appliances were gas or propane, would have at least a dozen circuits for everything in the house. Multiple circuits for lights, at least two for kitchen receptacles, one for bathroom receptacle, and each major appliance having it's own circuit. By contrast, most fuse panels were 60 amp and usually only had 4 to 8 circuits for a whole house. The truth is, whether it's fuses or breakers, if you don't have enough circuits, and multiple rooms and appliances share those handful of circuits you have, you are gonna be overloading circuits all the time. The fuse is just less convenient when it happens.

[@FrozenStool]

So I live in a older home and one of the fuses inside the fuse boxes just went out. Do I need to cut the power to the house before pulling the box out ?

[@enduringcharm]

You mean you just want to replace the fuse? That will simply unscrew like a lightbulb. You'll find the correct replacement and screw it back in.

[@squallreviews788]

So my Grandma's old house that we're now moving into has the push circuit breakers for the main house but a separate box with these for just the dryer plug.

[@enduringcharm]

Not unusual. Sometimes one box is upgraded and the older subpanels are left alone.

[@silveryaya92783]

What do you do if the threading in the fuse box has messed up the fuse won't screw in properly anymore because someone ruined it. Can that be replaced?

[@enduringcharm]

If the base threads are trashed, it's time to upgrade to a modern breaker box. I'm not aware of any way to replace those, and it sounds like you got your money's worth out of the old box!

[@brittanimousseau1243]

Mine has the glass fuses, do they have to be replaced with glass or will any kind work as long as its the correct amp?

[@enduringcharm]

You probably have Type T or Type W fuses, and it is often labeled as such. These are still available, so try and replace your fuses with the same type already installed.

[@nmargono]

My parent's house has these PS-230 fuses, with those tube-like fuses in them. One that powers HVAC recently exploded, and I replaced it with a new houseing as well as fuses....but the HVAC still won't turn on -- any recommendations where to check next?

[@enduringcharm]

Well, there could be a number of things to check. The easiest is first to take a meter and check for voltage at the condenser unit. It's quite possible your problem is not electricity to the HVAC unit but the HVAC unit itself. If there is voltage at the unit then you could have a faulty control board, or a blown start capacitor, for example.

[@tinam.3933]

I am having an issue with my microwave and stove and washer and dryer. Non are running but they keep tripping on and off? Any idea why? The fuse is not burned out. Of I unscrew it and put it back on it will work but trip on and off. Help.

[@enduringcharm]

I think I need some more detail. You mention the fuse "tripping" rather than "blowing." Do you have a screw-in style fuse base with a breaker style switch built in? Or, is it a regular fuse but you mean to say that the electrical service cuts in and out without blowing the fuse? Probably you have a loose or marginal connection inside the box or in the circuit somewhere if you are losing power without blowing a fuse. You mention a stove and a dryer, both of which are presumably 240 volt circuits. It is possibly to have one "leg" of that service fail, which will prevent the device from running. It's also possible to have an issue with the electrical service delivered to the house if the service entrance is loose or if a transformer nearby is failing. I'm afraid there's not much I can diagnose from a distance, so you may need to have an electrician come in and take a look at the box.

[@ilTHfeaa]

My apartment has a fuse box and one of my rooms' power went out 😭 so like im just tryna learn how to reset the damn thing

[@enduringcharm]

A blown fuse can be detected by looking through the glass on the front and seeing if it is still connected or if it is melted away. It will look different than the other fuses in the box. If you find one that's blown, unscrew it and screw in a new one of the same amperage.

[@ronlaverdiere]

@jj smallz Wow JJ smallz - living a privileged life I guess. No reason to belittle people just because they don't live in a newer building, or cannot buy a newer single family home. Fuse panels are not uncommon in many residences, whether houses or multi-family dwellings. Realistically, how many buildings do you think were built less then 60 years ago? It's hardly anything that requires updating as long as it has been well-maintained and is sufficient to meet the usage. Why dole out the cash to change 60+ units in an apartment complex to breakers if it isn't a safety issue?

[@normbograham]

those are not "canister" fuses, they are cartridge fuses. There are a few quirks. One, that's a 60amp federal pacific box, often fused for a max of 120 amps. It's never been an issue, but it's just wrong. The other gotcha, is that things like your water heater, if wired thru two fuses, can trip one fuse, and not the other, so, basically, run 120, in a 240 appliance (like a water heater). Also, the old fuse boxes, had several aux pannels, where the new panels, can be big enough to just wire the main, and the aux panels into the same box. With a new panel, you can add a cafi breaker, and the breaker will trip if in out, giving you some additional protection. And new boxes come with terminal guards (giant plastic covers, to cover life posts).

[@williampennjr.4448]

What do you think of breaker fuses. The breakers that screw in like a fuse but has a pin that shuts off like a breaker. Do they work?

[@enduringcharm]

You know, I've not had an opportunity to see them. In my area the majority of homeowners have upgraded to a breaker panel by now. There are other reasons to upgrade to a new panel anyway, including replacement of old wiring, the opportunity to add new circuits and clean up old ones, and the ability to add much greater overall capacity.

[@williampennjr.4448]

@@enduringcharm i just found out they only replace Tl fuzes. you cant use them to replace SL, which is what most people who have fuse boxes had after the 1950's.

[@timmyray8197]

I have an older fuse panel like you are talking that's in my house and each fuse has a different thread pattern,so you cant screw a bigger amp fuse in place of a smaller amp fuse..

[@Rebel9668]

Sounds like S type fuses instead of Edison base fuses.

[@jimrumsey8077]

also most insurance companies want you to replace them

[@WitchidWitchid]

This house I am in is around 60 years old but uses breakers. However, out in the garage which is much older than the house there is a box with a single fuse that protects the garage circuir.

[@enduringcharm]

In homes that lived through the transition from fuses to breakers it's not at all unusual to see both still in existence. It's a pain and expensive to switch over, so some circuits were left alone. It's also common to find multiple fuse or breaker boxes in the house, because it was easier to add another box than to reroute existing circuits to a single box.

[@KeatonDee]

We bought a condo this year, built in 1974 but still has this old fuse box. The fuses for the range were removed and there is nothing labeled as to what size fuse to use. Would it be 2 40amp fuses in that black pull out for the range? Thx.

[@enduringcharm]

Fuse or breaker size is tied to the size or "gauge" of the wires in the circuit. That's the whole point of fuses and breakers, to limit the amperage in a circuit so that wires don't overheat and cause a fire. So, it isn't a matter of what devices are plugged into the circuit, but how much capacity the circuit can safely carry. You need to know the wire gauge on your circuit for the range, then you can determine what size fuses are appropriate. I'd recommend having an electrician come take a look for you, and also checking why the fuses might have been pulled out in the first place. I just had a family member lose his condo complex to a horrific fire--it's not worth fooling with.

[@KeatonDee]

@@enduringcharm Thanks for the info. I’d assume they’re 14 gauge wires but I’ll double check. Yeah that’s what I’m curious about, why were the fuses pulled. The condo was a complete fixer upper and we’ve basically gutted everything aside from plumbing and electrical.

[@enduringcharm]

They wouldn't be 14 gauge if they were previously used to feed an electric range. Typically a 6 or 8 gauge wire is used for ranges, the former supporting a 50 amp fuse/breaker, the latter a 40 amp fuse/breaker. 14 gauge wire can only support a 15 amp breaker. That's why you should have a pro take a look.

[@KeatonDee]

@@enduringcharm Yeah my apprentice at work is actually a former electrician so maybe I’ll have him come over for a beer and have a look. Thanks buddy👍🏻

[@wubstepandponies]

Very informational and easy to understand. Thanks.

[@Machia80sbaby]

Yes sir my guy you did a terrific job!! ❤

[@6stringsbrainfingers]

Could a bad main fuse cause power to be out in half of my basement? After electrical storm a couple of the screw in fuses blew and I replaced them. But still no power to half my basement. So I replaced all the screw in fuses even if they didn't look blown. But still no power to half my basement. Any help would be greatly appreciated, and thanks in advance.

[@enduringcharm]

There are a number of possibilities, including that the electrical storm took out the nearest transformer from your house. Remember, you have two 120 volt "legs" coming into your house. Sometimes the electric company transformer fails and only one leg of those two is left. In that case, any 240 volt equipment in your house, such as an electric stove, would no longer work properly and you would see some circuits completely out while others are fine. Of course, a similar thing can happen if your main fuses/breakers in the house are not linking and only one side goes out. The only way to know is to get a meter and check. See this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/nWG8g56tq5ljqJo

[@6stringsbrainfingers]

@@enduringcharm thank you !

[@kareeberry7555]

Interesting, I was trying to find how to connect the wires for 220 to the fuse box in my garage. Guess I'll keep looking

[@enduringcharm]

There are countless variations on how fuse boxes or breaker boxes are wired, so you won't find a video specific to your circumstance. For 240v circuits you need two "hot" legs, one from each side of the electrical service. The circuit may or may not call for a neutral and you should have a ground. How you get these connections inside the box depends on the design of the box and how it was originally wired. If you are uncertain, better to call a pro.

[@Toxic_panda.]

Does the power have to be off when pulling a main fuse?

[@enduringcharm]

By definition a main fuse IS what cuts the power. Street power does not need to be off to pull the main fuse, if that is your concern.

[@nickpanhead7209]

Hi John, question I have a fuse panel in my garage looks like it was signed off in 96' when garage was built. Looks like all new Romex wires. I have 5-15 amp fuses that controls different lights and outlets. And I also have 1-20 amp that's not wired, I'm looking to run a 120 volt 20 amp welder. What should be wire size 12g ? And I will have one dedicated 20amp outlet. Is there anything else you think I should do ? And since it's for a welder do I need a certain type of 20amp glass fuse, slow blow ? Or something like that.

[@enduringcharm]

I'd be surprised if somebody installed a fusebox over a breaker box in the 90s. Maybe the box was there and the stickers from the 90s indicate a re-working of the box? Anyway, to answer your question, you can use a 20amp fuse with 12 gauge wire. However, I would encourage you to think twice about your welder! The small 120v welders are almost useless and I can almost guarantee you'll wish you went with a 240v model. The cost of the welder itself isn't that much more but you'll get far better ability for metal penetration and for duty cycle. If your fuse box doesn't have room for the 240v breaker, you can easily add a box to the side just for the welder. Before you do anything, look around on youtube and in forums for welder advice, and I think you'll come to realize that 240v is the way to go.

[@nickpanhead7209]

@@enduringcharm yeah John, that's what they did maybe they just had it laying around. I'm not welding anything big, so I think what I need it for the 20 amp should be good enough. Just looking to add a dedicated outlet just for this 110 wire feed welder. If need be that I need my bigger welder I could always run off my generator. But I'm just tinkering around with this little welder. Thank you for getting back to me

[@SlimyTissue]

this fuse box looks almost exactly like my current one I am trying to figure out, this vid helped a lot thank you

[@lionslove779]

Can you tell me what a 30 amp fuses used for? Is it for a stove?

[@enduringcharm]

That would be a high amperage for a standard circuit. An electric oven is typically 240 volt, so there would be two fuses for that. It could be a water heater, perhaps a well pump if you have a well, possibly air conditioning.

[@lionslove779]

@@enduringcharm ok thank You you very much

[@martinhare6499]

If you look at the end of a glass fuse you will see that the diameter changes from small (15 amp) to larger (20 amp) and larger still (30 amp). You can buy plastic discs from your electrical store that screw into the fuse socket and these limit the fuse amperage that the circuit can carry. You must turn off the power to the fuse box before inserting the discs. I install these in ALL my rental properties.

[@enduringcharm]

I think you are talking about type "S" tamper proof fuses. You can screw in a thread adapter which only fits the correct amperage fuse. Those are helpful, although you have to have the knowledge and will to install them in the first place.

[@pennylainetv]

How do you know if one of those cylinder fuses needs replacing? Also, i pulled the black square thing out to take a photo of the fuse, but didn't turn off the main power switch for electricity....could this cause me to be electrocuted? OMG!

[@enduringcharm]

The cartridge style fuses (cylinder) without a window require a meter to test. Otherwise, you can only replace them. You can pull the fuses without electrocuting yourself.

[@Minister67]

now the ITT crystal fuse I have is a 15 amp now can I replace it with a regular 15 amp or does it have to be the same as the ITT crystal

[@enduringcharm]

You're referring to a particular brand, that's all. Any screw-in style 15 amp fuse will be fine.

[@frankraym]

I have the glass fuse and one that has a button in the middle ....is that the same thing

[@enduringcharm]

You might be referring to a hybrid thing that was introduced in later years. It's basically a breaker disguised as a fuse. It's screws in like a fuse, but it really acts as a breaker and can be reset.

[@erniekovacs9573]

Missed talking about a protector that goes over the screw in fuse .How do you open that? (circa 1970)

[@enduringcharm]

You know, I'm not sure what you are referring to, but maybe somebody else knows. There are actually a lot of variations on fuses so I may not have seen what you have.

[@johnnykurplutzo6789]

How do u test the main fuse? I want to make sure I have proper fuses screwed in but diagram isn't labeled.

[@enduringcharm]

You are asking how to know if you have the correctly sized fuse? The fuse amperage is related to the gauge of the wire in the circuit. For example, a circuit made with 14 gauge wire would use a 15 amp fuse. The main fuse sizing is related to the box size and how many circuits are in that box. There's no easy rule of thumb, though, you just have to examine the wire gauge and the installation. If you are uncertain it might be better to have an electrician take a look for you.

[@johnnykurplutzo6789]

@@enduringcharm I'll take my chances before they take me. I'll let you know brother. Ty again 8 fuses. 2 cartridge

[@enduringcharm]

One other thing I should mention. The fuses are there to protect against a fire, for one thing. They limit the amount of power which can flow through a given circuit. So, if you are uncertain about the correct fuse size it's better to go lower amperage as a starting point. The worst that can happen in that case is that you'll blow fuses more often. The worst that can happen if you choose a fuse with too high an amperage is an electrical fire.

[@johnnykurplutzo6789]

@@enduringcharm awesome advice ty. This all started when the power company came out. They were messing around, then came back over and over again.

[@luz5058]

great job, and without lights and all, well explained

[@danaward2257]

Ok I have one of these most of my fuses are labeled 30 green or red ones but I have clear glass ones too I can’t tell the amp on these please help I need to replace them

[@enduringcharm]

It may have a little symbol under the glass or in the glass itself. If you unscrew the fuse it should also say somewhere on the body of the fuse.

[@tammyweaver455]

okay you're showing us the bottom part the one with the glass what what is the top bar with a handle on it what is that called that's what I'm wondering I got one the old fuse box but I don't know how to get the one with that little silver handle that you got what is that called

[@enduringcharm]

I'm not sure I follow your question, but I think you're asking what type of fuse is beneath the plastic cover? Those are called cartridge fuses. You'd have to look at your old one to determine what size you need for a replacement.

[@darlinjo33]

What if I am unable to see the wires? Is there any other way to tell what size fuse to use?

[@enduringcharm]

The wires will be visible at other points of the circuit, such as in an outlet box or behind a light fixture. Even so, it can be difficult to judge wire gauge of older cabling even for a pro. I would suggest defaulting to a 15 amp fuse if you are uncertain.

[@floralgeorge]

i still have this box . TL 25 AND TL30 . how much on average to replace this box into a circuit breaker ????

[@enduringcharm]

Impossible to say--there are regional differences in labor and permitting costs and your upgrade itself will depend on how your house is wired, how many circuits there are, and other factors. Most electricians will give you a free estimate, though.

[@floralgeorge]

@@enduringcharm i got 12k suburbs of nyc . lower hudson valley area . maybe i should get more estimates .. also if i dont plan on selling the house than should i even upgrade to breakers? TIA

[@floralgeorge]

@@enduringcharm Also, is it okay to take a fuse like that out the box without shutting off the power? ..wanted to double check what fuse goes where ... TIA for real . .

[@enduringcharm]

Well, $12K is a big chunk of change. If that is your estimate, I would imagine that you are talking about more than just a box-swap. There would be re-wiring of entire circuits involved too. Perhaps your home has older, unsafe wiring, or perhaps the physical layout of the old box and circuits is not conducive to a swap without modification. In any case, the electrician should be able to explain that to you in detail. It's also possible he gave you a very high estimate because he just doesn't want the job, which is a cowardly way of saying "no." Whatever the case, the electrician you choose should be comfortable explaining his estimate. As far as the need to upgrade--that depends. Some fuse boxes are just fine as they are, if the wiring is in good shape and the number and capacity of circuits is adequate for the home. What usually prompts an upgrade to a breaker box is when the wiring has become unsafe, or when a remodel of a kitchen or bath requires more circuits than the fuse box can provide.

[@enduringcharm]

Yes, you can unscrew fuses without concern--that's how you remove power from a single circuit.

[@Cynical2012]

All of a sudden my window unit is blowing 20 amp fuses. Can I get some troubleshooting advice?

[@enduringcharm]

That's pretty tough to provide long distance. Possibilities include an issue with your A/C unit causing it to draw more current, a fault in the circuit causing a short, and a circuit with added devices which are bringing it over capacity. You could start by carefully examining every device on the circuit to make certain it isn't over capacity.

[@KitsuneSolas]

Hi, I live in an old apartment building and the fuse connected to my kitchen blew. I followed all of your instructions but when I took the fuse box out all the power in my house was still on, I made sure no lights or anything were plugged in and when I tried to change the fuse I got a big shock, twice. Google isn't helping me and I'm not sure what to do? I've wasted about 4 fuses but even before im able to screw it in theres a big shock and it burns out.

[@enduringcharm]

Obviously I can't see how your apartment is wired from here, but it's not uncommon for older structures to have more than one fuse or breaker box for a particular dwelling. And, there may well be a circuit or two which are miswired. I did a bathroom remodel once where I found that somebody had wired two breakers into the same circuit! If you flipped the presumed breaker off the circuit was still powered up by the other breaker. Needless to say, that was a "shocking" discovery for me! Anyway, it sounds like your fuses are doing what they are supposed to do--they are blowing as soon as you install them because you still have a problem. And, that problem may be in the breaker box itself. So, rather than continue to waste fuses you need to have a professional track down the actual problem, which may be a short to ground, or corrosion in the box, or bungled wiring in a circuit. The blowing fuses are a symptom of the problem, not the actual problem. If you are a renter, then this is something your landlord should be taking care of for you.

[@rockskipper0]

So if i need 220v i would need a wire from both of the big pull fuses to a screw in fuse?

[@enduringcharm]

There are a lot of different fuse box configurations and even more ways to wire them, so it would be irresponsible for me to offer advice from afar. To make a 220 volt (really 240 volt) circuit you do need to pull from both 120 volt legs. How that gets done inside your box depends on it's layout and design, and there are many more rules as far as wire size, grounding, neutral and fuse size. Best to have a local electrician take a look if you are uncertain.

[@BobRooney290]

my building management is asking $2000 to convert my fuse box in my apartment to a breaker box. seems very expensive. problem is, i cannot use a decent A/C in the summer because the fuse keeps breaking. will a breakerbox alleviate this?

[@enduringcharm]

For an apartment fuse box conversion--with no other wiring--that sounds a little high. Typically an apartment doesn't have a large box, unless you live on Park Avenue. If other wiring is involved, that may not bee too bad. As for your problem with AC, if you are blowing fuses with your current AC (presumably a window unit?) then you are drawing too much current for the circuit. One possibility is that you have other things on that circuit which are adding to the load. Try to run the AC and a microwave or a hairdryer on the same circuit and you will have a problem. So, first verify what other things (if any) are on the circuit. Second, the size of the fuse or breaker is tied to the size of the wire. So, switching from a fusebox to a breaker box doesn't help unless you also increase the wire size. That means re-wiring that circuit. A 15 amp fuse or breaker is associated with 14 gauge wire. A 20 amp fuse or breaker is associated with larger 12 gauge wire. A 20 amp circuit should be enough for any window air conditioner. Now, if the AC requires 240 volt power, then you'll have two fuses or breakers but the same problem. You should confirm what you are getting for the $2000 and how it might solve your problem. You should also look at newer AC units which might draw less power and solve your problem that way.

[@britthobo]

looking for information on mini-breaker fuses and how they work...

[@davidmarquardt9034]

Our old house had 60 amp service. But unlike yours, the fused box disconnects were vertical, not horizontal. Top one was the Main and the bottom the 240 volt Range. There where 4-15 amp circuits, 2 on each side of the disconnect. The 240 Range had spaces for a fuse one on each side. But we had no 240 volt appliances, so those sockets were never installed. Also our local code did not allow Edison base fuses (the light-bulb type sockets) so only Type-S fuses could be installed. Unlike Edison sockets, Type-S are sized for amperage, 20 amp is smaller than 30, and 15 amp is smaller than 20. A 20 amp won't fit in a 15 and a 15 would fall out of a 20 or 30 amp socket. Also you could put the disconnect plug in the "OFF" position but since one of the 4 prongs is offset, it will not engage, a smart safety feature the old timers thought of. Thus, a "stow-able" disconnect. Also it had bus lugs under the 120 and 240 volt disconnects, which I suspect could feed a sub-panel.

[@enduringcharm]

Yes, there were many, many variations on fuse boxes produced over the decades.

[@markeithpeacock222]

Can you purchase the whole main fuse box you pulled out the wall

[@enduringcharm]

You can still buy replacement fuses. The box itself I'm not certain about, it may depend on your area or the ability to order one. You could try a local electrical supply house and see what they say. But, if your fuse box needs replacing the smarter option would be to replace it with a modern breaker box.

[@lauren1043]

Is it dangerouse to replace a fuse without turning off the power to the fuse box? How do you do that?

[@enduringcharm]

No, it's not dangerous. The fuse box IS what you use to turn off the power! If you have a blown fuse or a circuit to which you need to cut power, simply unscrew the existing fuse like alight bulb. Replace it with the appropriate amp fuse when you are done.

[@riffdex]

I was very scared when screwing new fuses in. If I accidentally touch the outer threads of the “light bulb” fuse can I get instantly shocked?

[@enduringcharm]

No, you'll be fine. Just like when you screw a lightbulb in, you won't get shocked. The flow of AC electricity requires a connection between the "hot" side and the neutral or ground. Since that Edison light-bulb style socket separates the two, there's no way to get shocked unless you purposely wet your finger and start poking it around inside the socket!

[@riffdex]

@@enduringcharm you da man

[@ronieronnwick8411]

What would cause a low voltage reading 42v coming out to fuse?

[@joew4202]

So 120 come in on each of the pull out fuses

[@genebowdish.mageniemagic]

15 amp plug type circuit breaker bussmann ? What do you think about that ?

[@enduringcharm]

You mean the circuit breakers designed to screw into a fuse holder? I've not tried them because in my area fuse boxes are pretty rare. Unless you have a problem with constantly tripping a circuit you might as well stick with regular fuses.

[@genebowdish.mageniemagic]

@@enduringcharm thank you for your idea

[@zippy2641]

Some of my fuses are labeled "Time Delay"...are they used for some special purpose??

[@enduringcharm]

Some circuits may have a device like an air conditioner, or washer/dryer, or something else which has a high MOMENTARY start-up current draw. The time delay fuses are sometimes installed to prevent the fuses from blowing under normal circumstances. They just give the device a chance to start up and get running without blowing the fuse, that's all.

[@thornmollenhoff8698]

How do you know if the fuse if 15 amps or 30 amps? How do you know if the circuit is 15 amps?

[@enduringcharm]

A fuse should be labeled. The correct fuse size for a circuit depends on the wire gauge. 12 gauge wire throughout an entire circuit can support a 20 amp fuse, 14 gauge wire throughout an entire circuit can support a 15 amp fuse. If you are unable to identify wire gauge, I would suggest using a 15 amp fuse until you have an electrician verify what you have installed.

[@atkgrl]

How to tell which fuse should be in the socket? Not just guessing 15 amps?

[@enduringcharm]

The fuse size is related to wire gauge. A heavier gauge wire in a circuit can support a larger capacity fuse. The two common wire gauges for general use residential circuits are 14 gauge and 12 gauge. 14 gauge wire can support a 15 amp fuse. 12 gauge wire can support a 20 amp fuse. Special use circuits for ovens, AC, dryers, etc., will have a heavier gauge wire. So, for general use circuits you need to examine the wire to know what fuse capacity it will support. If you can't tell, it's safer to assume it is a lighter gauge wire and use the 15 amp fuse.

[@DiamondScuff]

Whats the difference in fuse types? for example "tc" "p" "gp" "d" all these different fuse types?

[@LiveStoicism]

Thanks for the video! Quick question. My Buss W 30 Amp fuse blew, is it safe to replace with a TL 30 Amp?

[@enduringcharm]

Yes, the W fuses are an older design no longer made and the TL is an effective replacement.

[@LiveStoicism]

@@enduringcharm Thank you for the prompt reply. Replaced the fuse and the TL worked like a charm. Much appreciated 👍

[@sharong5072]

@@enduringcharm is TL a safe replacement for all fuse types? I have W, T, TL and something called OK by eagle (125v)? I'd like to make it uniform and simple...

[@enduringcharm]

TL and W can be interchanged. The T style is a heavy duty fuse typically used for circuits with a motor, such as a sump pump or an air conditioner.