The Rise and Fall of Helmut Lang

[@hesitantplanet9446]

I was fascinated by Helmut Lang’s pieces when I come across them but never knew anything about him or the brand. This was a very well researched and informative video compared to others I’ve seen. Thank you!

[@understitchYT]

@@hesitantplanet9446 thank you so much, Im so happy to give you a detailed background into the brand 🥰

[@ericli3073]

Hopefully rise and fall and rise with peter do

[@understitchYT]

would be nice, but the recent show doesn't leave me the most confident :l

[@OwnD1]

@@understitchYTbetter than Pharrell’s debut over at LV

[@tngermaine1]

@@OwnD1haha 🧢

[@Robfrieddlich87]

Didn’t like Peter take on Helmut

[@userX_00]

​@@OwnD1 Such a lie. Its okay we know why you said that though👀

[@christopherfeatherley]

Hi, Understich 😁 I just wanted to let you know you made another amazing video. Your channel is definitely underrated; I've always loved how you explored the business, social, artistic side of fashion which is very unique to your channel 😮 I don't think I've ever seen another fashion youtuber go in depth like you do. Keep up the good work!

[@understitchYT]

Thank you so much! Im so happy to provide that kind of research for KZbin. I love those that give their opinion too though, I just never seem to think mine is as valuable as the research 😅

[@christopherfeatherley]

@@understitchYT I love your opinions/takes; it gives a bit of charm to your videos. I find myself chuckling occasionally to some of your comments on your videos, too 😁

[@hopew6979]

While I was also a bit underwhelmed with Peter Do's debut at Helmut Lang, I feel optimistic that things will coalese over the next few seasons. I think Peter just needs time and he'll likely have the time if this first collection sells well. The clothes are indeed beautiful, just missing that it factor.

[@understitchYT]

Yeah he will definitely make sales so I agree there will be a next season, but its a shame with all the hype it couldnt live up to it

[@hohimmy5495]

honestly, one of the most resourceful channel about fashion ever, love all the insight , love all the research.. I really appreciate your hardwork and dedication to the channel

[@understitchYT]

Thank you so much! Im so glad it brings that value 🙌

[@wvanderwahl]

Without a doubt. Everything she presents is well researched and examined. This graduate of F.I.T. class of 1992 approves. I remember Helmut Lang well- that shop on Greene Street was austere and cool way before anyone else. The perfume which I wore and purchased two bottles of-smelled delicious.

[@shoshannaalicia1968]

I'm truly impressed by your recent video. Your channel is a standout in the fashion world, and your in-depth exploration is both unique and captivating. Keep up the fantastic work! 🌟

[@understitchYT]

Im so glad you liked it! Thank you so much ✨✨✨

[@jonas5309]

I’m so excited for this video, I’ve been waiting for this one! Helmut Lang is one of, if not my favorite designer. I assume the Peter show won’t be included in this video, so I thought I’d ask what your thoughts on it are. Love the videos, keep it up!

[@understitchYT]

Oh it is included! Initial thoughts and observations, and a few questions

[@martijnkeisers5900]

First of all thanks for covering one of my favorite designers! The second half of the 90s Lang was my outfit of choice, i collected his jeans (painter,rubber coated, ironing burns,oil wash etc.) The nylon and leather "body bags" and his perfume. It was such understated chique, like u said; nostalgia. It brings back great memories.. Thnx again for a wonderful vid!

[@understitchYT]

Im so glad you liked the video! Im also very jealous you got the jeans and the body bags!! I bet you were annoyed when Prada cut the denim, I wouldve been livid as a collector

[@scpatl4now]

I had a friend back in the day that "acquired" one of those latex/rubber dresses (red). It looked very high fashion, and she always got attention wearing it, but she said it was just about the most uncomfortable garment she had ever worn.

[@understitchYT]

I think its great that those dresses "went into production and were able to be bought at a reasonable price as a reasonable store" for your friend. Do they still have it? Itd be worth a fortune today 🥳

[@scpatl4now]

@@understitchYT I haven't seen her in years. My guess...probably not

[@sophiaisabelle027]

We appreciate your dedication and hard work. Keep working hard.

[@understitchYT]

Thank you so much! Did you like the Lang Do show?

[@Redley_Ex]

What a time to be in NYC during the Lang years, seeing those taxi cabs zip by and to see the latest ads in Vogue mag. Peter Do hit the mark on some looks while injecting his own DNA. For me what could have been missing is that ”I don’t give an eff” feeling and that slightly worn in touch which Lang did so well. Not to mention the subtle layering. Lang always represented a type a cool which was one step ahead of everyone else. Let’s see how Do evolves. Great video!👌🏽👌🏽👌🏽

[@understitchYT]

I read this comment a while ago and had to let it sit to think about it and actually I think you could be completely right, theres almost a vulnerability missing in this collection because it was so safe and maybe its exactly that that has made it so mundane as a revival. Helmuts original ideas were minimal, but that was so risky, it was vulnerable at the time. You really made me think, ty

[@Redley_Ex]

Thank you for the thoughtful reply. Yes vulnerability! I see some mentioning C. Horyn’s take as well, she made some great observations. If he can find that sweet spot then it’s off to the races.

[@understitchYT]

@@Redley_Ex I agree, I think that Horyn's take was very on the money too

[@rbk9796]

I love your videos so much! Thank you for inspiring us with all your videos every time. Would love to see a episode of the brand Carven and Hedi Slimane and CELINE 🩷

[@understitchYT]

Oh I would love to, Idk why Carven isnt more well known tbh

[@omarmyia]

Just gonna comment that this is the best fashion channel on KZbin to help with the algorithm

[@understitchYT]

Thank you so much!! Can always do with Algo help 🙌

[@delta_atled]

Just wanted to let you know that I adore your videos but my favourite thing ever is the background music! The way the backwards sounds sort of play at the edges of your hearing is almost hypnotizing. Very cool design choice.

[@understitchYT]

Oh thank you very much! I made that music myself (which is why it repeats so much ahha)

[@soeliastudio]

You are right on with Peter dos clothes being sellable and the electricity was definitely lost. I feel Lange references have been stretched and used so much, that this invigorating feeling that we seek out with that brand has to be spontaneous and balanced enough with the codes of Lang. Shayne Oliver really gave Helmut Lang an electric feel, his creative direction seemed promising. I do look foward to seeing how the next seasons play out for do and hope that something great becomes of his new creative direction.

[@understitchYT]

Yeah I think thats good evidence of why time will be good to see if the placement settles into something that we can look forward to each season or not. Lang was never a spectacular brand, but played more on our concepts of utilitarianism, repetition and minimalism (perfectionism too?) so I was to see how that plays out

[@anonymousonlineuser6543]

Great video as usual. I can never distinguish between HL and Jil Sander. Most puzzling thing is why Prada execs have purchased both, JS and HL as if wanting to ''Corner'' the minimalist market. Someone at Prada was not thinking.

[@understitchYT]

EXACTLY! A very foolish thought process, minimalism and maximalism go in opposites of one another, so only banking on profits from one of the two is so ill informed

[@olumideakingbade982]

Thanks so much for your insight. Your research, your storytelling, that crisp voice - love it all !

[@understitchYT]

I geg so many people talk about my vocal fry so Im glad you think its crisp 😂

[@jhoover3098]

Thanks!

[@understitchYT]

Thank you so much!!

[@sergioolave7782]

Wow, didn't know about all the struggles behind the brand after Mr. Lang sold it. Really interesting conclusion, maybe the hype was really high but really hope to see more Peter Do ideas in the future, I know he has to reference certain aspects of the brand DNA but it's always fun to see designers putting their touch in the collections for a different brand.

[@understitchYT]

I agree, I hope we get to see more, I hope he gets to grow with the brand to bring it to something great again. Hes undeniably the best person for the job, so happy to give him the grace to grow

[@silk3142]

i like buying stuff and then rewatching you or threadeducation as a touch up on the brands original principles !

[@weiliang5642]

After seeing most of the items Helmut Lang produced these few years were just logo T-shirts and hoodies, I think I'm happy to see Peter Do's direction, at least it's something different. So I'm optimistic about this new era!

[@understitchYT]

I agree its better than that tshirt contest 😂

[@WelcometotheMuseum]

I’ve just recently learned about this brand on the instagram post by one of my favorite writers and poets Ocean Voung. They’ve collaborated in creation of some of those t-shirts for the new Helmut Lang collection. So the phrases on the t-shirts are quotes from Voung’s literary works. Some of the prints on fabrics also should be from Voung’s photographs (haven’t seen those yet). I would love to have one for myself. Maybe it is wrong and one might say I treat it like merchandise, but for me it is more like appreciation of the Voung’s artistic talent. I do hope I will have it one day ☺️

[@understitchYT]

I think thats the appeal of an artist collab like this, it *is* merchandise, but its done in a way with artistic integrity so they dont water down their credibility

[@damienlynch7428]

Another great video, thank you. One of the best fashion channels available🎉

[@understitchYT]

Im so glad you enjoyed 🙌🙌

[@jhoover3098]

Such a great reminder/summation/ bringing us up to speed to view the Peter Do for Helmut Lang intelligently, with context, and a sharpened eye. Thank you!! Btw I remember the relaunch at the contemporary level. It was very confusing. It really left fans pondering, is it Helmut Lang or not? Definitely not where you want to leave your customers…

[@understitchYT]

Yeah the mid-level relaunch was really strange, ut didnt make sense to dilute the mainline when they couldve just had a diffusion line to get that income without watering down the mainlien. Cery strange fs

[@dimplesd8931]

Thank you for this. I grew up with HL and have a pair of amazing slides from the from their last shoe collection before the new creative director.

[@understitchYT]

Oh thats great, do the slides hold up?

[@ozziemorales1848]

Great story on the Master Helmut I lived n wore pieces in the 9os n well I agree w u that the ethos was captured brilliantly by Do but their still a missing link that i so hope Do can discover n present and present to as as well as putting the brand on top

[@understitchYT]

I think its undeniable that Do was the best person for the job, so tho it was a lacklustre debut Im very happy to watch him grow into it

[@slash364]

please drop the phoebe philo video😭😭😭😭 also great video

[@understitchYT]

Its coming as soon as I see the debut collection 🙌

[@karigrandii]

So few understand how ahead of his time lang was. He did everything right but the neoliberal economy got him. Fashion wasnt about art or progression anymore, it was about money. This killed so many brands like helmut lang and mcqueen

[@understitchYT]

The inability to make fashion profitable gets so many designers, value isnt created by product but by brand now, so its exceptionally difficult for a new brand to make a profit, while very easy for established brands to price hike or cost reduce. Very very difficult

[@thebrothaj]

This excerpt from Cathy Horyn from The Cut is spot on: "Do obviously has a daunting task ahead of him if he wants to make a real project of Helmut Lang and have some fun in the process. He has to first get to the bottom of Lang’s sensibility, what made him so different, and then find a relatable beat in the present moment. Hedi Slimane did the smart thing when he took over Saint Laurent after Tom Ford, though his approach was initially annoying and seemingly lazy. Slimane located the moment in Yves Saint Laurent’s career when the designer was truly subversive, roughly 1965 to 1970, when he did the original tuxedo, the baby doll dresses, the Pop Art dresses, and the see-through black blouse. And, for me, that’s where Slimane found his modern link and then he took those styles further. Do is going to have to find his own point of contact with Lang and then express that spirit in a contemporary way, without respect for his legacy. Otherwise, we might as well go to Uniqlo." The brand is going to need PETER DO for Helmut Lang, and not (Necessarily) Peter Do's version of Helmut Lang for Helmut Lang.

[@understitchYT]

Thats a really fantastic way to put it, theyre very right that he needs to find that part of Langs legacy on which to evolve, but I dont honestly know how much of it is really recorded, I had an incredibly difficult time finding what was used in this video for example

[@TheMcFish]

Really looking forward to the Alexander McQueen episode!

[@understitchYT]

Omg Im so excited about it, my notes just for the brand were 80 pages long (so a lot had to get cut to make it not ridiculous) but the one for the life and death is NINE TIMES longer, Ill obviously cut a lot but Id like to maybe do a directors cut and a youtube cut 😂

[@jeanpaulsabella589]

Love the content every time

[@understitchYT]

Tysm!

[@martinschone3531]

great video!

[@understitchYT]

Thank you 🥰

[@dantetamessolorio9216]

Shayne Oliver was the only "after Helmut" collection that actually made me excited

[@sanchirkh6019]

where can i watch the helmut lang documentary with english subtitles?

[@darkovinster2754]

Thank you! Very well done video! 👌🏼

[@understitchYT]

Tysm 🙌

[@JaesadaSrisuk]

As a side note: have you thought about doing a show on the rises and falls of Christian Lacroix and Alber Elbaz? Both would make for fascinating, tragic tales about industry-beloved designers being swallowed up by circumstances beyond their control (the economic downtown, corporate politicking, etcetera).

[@understitchYT]

Alber Elbaz doesnt have his own brand as far as I know, but Im very interested in a Lacroix video

[@JaesadaSrisuk]

@@understitchYT Yeah. Lacroix deserves a critical reappraisal and retrospective in my opinion. His clothing was so exuberant, whimsical, beautifully made and era defining - but it seems like he’s been a bit forgotten over the last decade. His background (as a Sorbonne-trained art historian and curator) really gave him a fascinating, original historical perspective (like Lacroix’ Bazar diffusion line that he that consisted of pieces based on historical fashion) on design and I could see his feminine, over the top designs coming back into style. In fact, I’ve had this opinion that now would be the perfect time for Lacroix to restart his couture house, perhaps starting with a bridal line (something he was well known for throughout his career) and building it back up from there. Or, he’s also my pick as a perfect candidate for the creative directorship for couture at Chanel; with his long history as a couturier at his own line as well as at Jean Patou, he’d have the know how as well as desperately needed imagination, showpersonship and vibrancy that has been sorely missed from Viard’s collections.

[@rukiat]

I’m probably one of the only few people who loved the colovos’ tenure at HL. For me the designs + price points were perfect for a time where we were going through serious financial crisis. Their collections between 2008-11 really embodied the business casual look that was popular back then due to the recession. I saw their designs from those collections get copied so much, you could find dupes at retail stores like H&M. Also their draping was just really good imo.

[@understitchYT]

Its always a shame when you find a brand and a designer you like and its just not picked up by the general media as much as you hope

[@rukiat]

@@understitchYT honestly😭 like nooo one talks about them

[@inigojuancarlos]

I fondly remember the Helmut Lang jeans. I love them!

[@understitchYT]

Theh still hold up!

[@teleleonela]

I found it quite curious that HL's personal instagram account liked ENDYMA's latest post reviewing PD's debut. Particularly, I think there's a great point to be made about PD's lack of first-hand research into the archives and an over-reliance on HL stereotypes, which given the designer's Tumblr history, is not all that surprising. What was circulated there lost the ethos/anthology as a whole and focused on "intellectualized details and 'iconic' moments" -- same as the collection and also to be expected with the diluting effects of social media (obviously a whole conversation in itself). But I still hold faith that PD takes the criticism in stride and develops over the course of the next few seasons, if he's given the fair chance and not just discarded in the likes of LDSS/Ann D, etc.

[@understitchYT]

Oh wow did they really like endymas post? Oof thats got to hurt for Do. Today everything Givenchy, Pierre Berger etc were saying about the 90s designers seems so harsh, but having that kind of passive snipe must hurt so personally. I found endyma’s review completely spot on tbh, like I say in the video, it reads like a diffusion line rather than a mainline and they also say its more like a mid-lux brand, so I think we are both on the same page Either way, I hope Do gets time to grow with the brand, to learn more about it and genuinely to understand it more past a superficial level

[@milesclemente338]

HL is one of my favourites! Please do one on Nicolas Ghesquière ❤

[@understitchYT]

does he have his own brand??

[@Michael-xi9nb]

The sound of disappointment in your voice when talking about the new collection. 😭 I loved the black suit with the pink accents, at least.

[@understitchYT]

That sound of disappointment is sickness. My tonsils are so numb rn I was trying to sound healthy and it just didnt work 😂

[@Michael-xi9nb]

@@understitchYT Oh no! Get well soon. x

[@styledbydaisy5367]

Thank you for your content

[@understitchYT]

Thank you for watchjng 🥰

[@debspringchannel831]

I love this channel

[@understitchYT]

I see you have good taste 💅

[@jakobie]

“Diffusion line”! Wow….that’s a little harsh. I doubt if Helmut Lang were to return and helm his namesake label, it’ll still make the same media splash back in the mid 90s. Look at Tom Ford and Marc Jacobs who were powerhouses of the mid 90s too….still active but being reduced to caricatures of their previous glories. For Do and the owners of Helmut Lang the label, I think they just need to do a Michele or Demna (even Pier Paolo), i.e screw the label’s archive and boldly reinterpret the label’s DNA via their own ethos and vision.

[@understitchYT]

Yeah I think it might be harsh too, but at the moment with my initial thoughts, thats how it comes across. Perhaps having this kind of minimalist brand is what we need now, but apparently it cannot start from where it left off and will have to work at joining the row now (hopefully Pheobe Philo wont see the same fate though)

[@jakobie]

@@understitchYT not holding my breath with Philo’s. Don’t want to jinx it and suffer the fate of Tisci, Simons and CWK. 🤞

[@understitchYT]

@@jakobie I dont know whats happening with that, its been a while since we heard news

[@TaliKay-lb7rn]

Fashion reporting and overt snubs often harm truly talented designers like Helmut Lang. Whether the reporters are ed may play more into what "they like" than the appeal or value of the collections themselves. Even with Peter Do's first subtle ode to Helmut Lang, the show's setting may have influenced the review heard here more than it should have. This may be the true criticism of all "journalists", they have a tough time separating their own daily feelings from an objective assessment. Considering that each human has his/her own taste preferences, when evaluating wearable art, designs that appeal and add value to wardrobes of humans from all sectors/walks of life Above all else, designers that protect the dignity, humility, and vulnerabilities of their models with care, timelessness all while showcasing their strength is rare and should be celebrated.

[@squircled6274]

Can u do one on number nine Ik it’s the same as the og but I don’t know why and it’s really hard to figure out why

[@understitchYT]

oh I love number (n)ine, I realy want to cover them

[@Tomes23]

4:14 These clothes would look in place today. Classic.

[@understitchYT]

Forever classic, a genius designer

[@jacksonmahr8915]

Excellent, again. Just excellent.

[@understitchYT]

Thank you so much!

[@lalc2883]

Fabulous documentary... But i have to add something for context. I don't think the word "luxury" can be used to describe Helmut Lang and other designers like Margiela and brands that emerged in the late 70's throughout the 90's. The vision of luxury we have today is not the same they had in the past because all those brands wanted to break from the culture and the codes of Haute Couture and luxury fashion houses (which were RTW lines of historical HC houses). The success of a lot those brands was that they spoke to a different kind of customers who had a deeper connection to a designer's work than the status of Chanel bag or a Vuitton trunk. That notion of luxury changed with Tom Ford at Gucci and later when Prada became one of the IT brand of the late 90's. Suddenly people wanted the look from those luxury brands. And that's also for me why accessories never worked for Helmut Lang. People who bought accessories bought the whole look. The average consumer bought the jeans because it was really the first status symbol-ish cool jeans. Prada really ruined a well oiled machine.

[@understitchYT]

While I agree that this was in a wave of redefining fashion, I disagree with where you think it began. Imo that redefinition of what fashion could be began in the 80 woth Rei Kawakubo who opened the doors for what we consider to be fashion to be a wider spectrum. Then brands like Jil Sander started popping up that showed their version of a minimal fashion and it went from there to Lang. Galliano showed that maximalism was still sought after, but didnt make sales and McQueen showed that avant garde could be profitable and then in the late 90s it was really LVMH that changed it again so say that the catwalk design is almost irrelevant as long as it gets enough buzz to sell perfumes. Lang was very caught up in all of this because Prada tried to expand to compete with LVMH, but because this model was so new they misunderstood that jeans can be the cash cow too, it didnt have to be perfumes and bags, and thats the mistake they made. The 90s was a wild time for fashion and it changed the whole industry unrecognisably

[@lalc2883]

@@understitchYT Yet the irony of the demise of the Helmut Lang was that Hedi Slimane used the same exact "structure" to do Dior Homme. And because Dior was quote on quote "luxury", the foundation of Helmut Lang expanded very fast. That why i wanted to make a point on the use of "luxury" used to define Helmut Lang in those heydays. The structure of a luxury brand wasn't the same of a fashion brand even if later, luxury used that to maintain their businesses. Helmut Lang had fragrances like Cuiron. It was great but it wasn't a luxury brand so only people who loved the brand bought it. Gaultier and Mugler started to do fragrances when they did Haute Couture and transitioned to a more quote on quote "luxury status". But really you explained clearly. It's a pity that this relaunch feels flat. Do you think that the constant choice of American designers for a brand that has after a european sensibility has to do with the failures?

[@nakiabrown994]

It's incredibly sad that the Prada group didn't have a creative vision in place for Helmut Lang, as they were too busy of course trying to make their own brand a household name!! It's evident that Helmut Lang didn't take that into consideration before the acquisition. As one critic mentioned in your audio, Helmut Lang is not a brand, he is a person. It is extremely difficult to convert a designer such a Helmut into a brand without their involvement. For example, Azzedine Aalia, that man was a person, never a brand. He was in a league of his own, anytime these creative giants left the creative space, their work is left to the mercy of their shadows. I mean in my opinion selling the brand to a fashion house where the pieces are so uncannily similar, wouldn't have worked at all. There would certainly be the constant comparison between the two, as let's be honest here, Prada group and Helmut Lang were perhaps the complete reference and/or definition of minimalism also known as "quiet luxury" It is with great sadness though to see a once Iconic brand such as Helmut Lang fades into obscurity. I truly hope that an upcoming designer who admires Mr. Lang's creative vision for quality clothing is able to resurrect the brand, but that will take a true visionary to do so, and not someone who is solely motivated by capital gain. Some what similar to how Daniel Roseberry has helped resurrected the Schiapparelli brand!!

[@understitchYT]

I think you hit the nail on the head; theyre too simialr. When minimalism is in they are competing with each other and so cant take as much individually and cant get the same attention from the parent, but also when theyre not theyre both drain on the company trying to stay afloat. Too tricky of an acquisition imo. However, when it was acquired all of these parents were new to building an empire, they couldnt have known how it was going to play out without testing and seeing. I agree that I hope someone comes along to really revive it strongly, someone with a very unique pov

[@manuelrengeldiaz]

What's the name of the Alexander McQueen book????? I want to read it

[@understitchYT]

I think I reference two in this video, Gods and Kings by Dana Thomas and Alexander McQueen edited by claire Wilcox

[@manuelrengeldiaz]

@@understitchYT Thanks a lot!!!!

[@userx12342]

'electricity was missing' is exactly what i felt. good but not amazing. will be eagerly waiting for the next season.

[@understitchYT]

I think the next season will be the make of break of Do at Lang (tho usually its common to wait for the third to see the talent, I think we will know by the next one)

[@userx12342]

@@understitchYT fully agree, at least more than one season is fair, unlike at another label i shall not name...

[@understitchYT]

@@userx12342 we all know who you mean, but I liked his first collection

[@userx12342]

@@understitchYT me too...

[@DavidMartinez-eq4iq]

Perfect timing

[@understitchYT]

Gracias 🙌

[@nidesnyc]

I really wanted to like the new collection.... but It just doesn't really click for me? Hoping that Peter Do can evolve in the coming seasons and make it his own because the brand is really deserving of someone who can take the helm and turn it around.

[@understitchYT]

I agree, I would like to see it click, he is the perfect pwrson for the job, but there was a lack of risk that made it a lacklustre debut 🤷

[@slacks100]

Are Skinny Jeans Still Cool ?

[@understitchYT]

If you like them, then yes

[@gordonw4542]

Hi Understitch, Helmut Lang is and was an artist who want to make clothing for his artist friends. Helmut Lang and Martin Margiela are men cut from the same cloth. They are artist first and designer second.. With that said only Helmut Lang can create that magic for his collection. Most very good artist have a personal type magic which is not pick up by the nuked eye, other sensitive people can feel it. In short its a vibes. My hat off to you Understitch you sense it ! Hint its in his early fashion drawing.

[@understitchYT]

Did you see that he is a fine artist and sculptor now?

[@gordonw4542]

HI, understitch, Gee In the beginning off this video your channel showed his early drawing of his jacket for display to help sell his garment to his friend , you can feel the vibe by looking How do I know? I went Art school had diploma. in fine art. I always felt that being artist was a disadvantage working in fashion. Helmut Lang proof me wrong. good night

[@blackvirgo09]

Fantastic studying

[@understitchYT]

Tysm! Glad to bring that 🙌

[@user-ry7po4co4l]

Peter has to get in touch and learn more about Helmut Lang first, not just on the surface, he still has a lot to do. Unfortunately, the latest collection seems just like a poor attempt at reviving the “iconic” designs from the archive, there’s no uniqueness/ originality being offered at all. 😅

[@understitchYT]

I had heard Do was a huge fan of Lang and that he had been an inspiration, perhaps its over familiarity that cause this jumble of inspirations

[@chigal0926]

I love Helmut Lang. I have a sweater I got from the The Real Real. And yes, it is authentic. I feel badly he is no longer in the business.

[@understitchYT]

Clothes are so unlikely to be faked unless theyre an ‘it’ item or something obviously branded, so I dont question the resalers to much there. But for leather goods, Japan is a safer choice

[@chigal0926]

@@understitchYT There's been a lot of criticism that The Real Real is reselling knockoffs. I have always been a fan of his esthetic since the 90's. That was a major coup for me to get that sweater. I get angry that this industry chews up and spits out the best designers. It's truly disappointing.

[@understitchYT]

@@chigal0926 yeah I know they have got in a lot of hot water about it, but clothes are much less likely to be knockoffs, theres far less market for them

[@Tia-to2qc]

Peter Do's own line was much more interesting and desirable than his new take on Lang's aesthetic. Perhaps there's a market for both, but it would be tragic if Peter's eponymous line is sacrificed for the sake of yet another desperate attempt to rehab a dated heritage house.

[@understitchYT]

I hope theres a market for both, quiet luxury or minimalim is making a comeback, but of course, its hard to know. Peter Do is now established and has a customer base, whereas Helmut is still in the revival stage, but had a bigger brand name, so if one does win out, itll be interesting to see who

[@dimplesd8931]

Please do Todd Oldham. He was everywhere and then he disappeared

[@understitchYT]

Oh Id love to, the crazh of his business was so sudden

[@tzegoh333]

I think you forgot to mention the part about how helmut lang the person is living in resplendent luxury since the sale of his company,

[@understitchYT]

Well my videos (except the one life and death video) are about the brand, not the person. But yeah, he is currently living a resplendent life in the countryside as a successful artist and actually as an art lover his work is really impactful, I really enjoy it

[@tzegoh333]

@@understitchYT You should continue with your 90s theme and do Calvin Klein and Donna Karen next.

[@understitchYT]

@@tzegoh333 I want to do both so much, but I fear CK is going to be a huge rabbithole, so I want to save it for after Im done with my current rabbithole on McQueen

[@tzegoh333]

@@understitchYT We love us a huge messy rabbithole !

[@understitchYT]

@@tzegoh333 oh I love a rabbithole, but my schedule for releasing videos does not hahaha

[@ClaireMonica-Art]

I just don’t think u can capture the magic of that era again tbh - relaunches just dilute the labels original power

[@understitchYT]

Thats nearly always true for sure, the most successful imo was JS at Moschino that really was a match made in heaven

[@lilliansanteix7117]

Commentary,speakerine, lack of pertinent photos make this report a potent soporific. Good night.

[@understitchYT]

Good night, sleep tight

[@xoliyah6553]

peter do to the rescue!!

[@understitchYT]

🦸

[@luckyblue3501]

Tbh Peter Do did not bring that IT factor that everybody was expecting and it was a huge letdown.

[@understitchYT]

It really is a shame, but I do hope that he brings that for the banana republic collab

[@jrtg1990]

The Row is , obviously, so inspired by Helmut Lang.

[@understitchYT]

I see more pheobe philo in their work, but philo was inspired by Lang, so youre definitely on the money 😅 I have videos on both 💅💅💅

[@jrtg1990]

@@understitchYT yes, her too. On a different note, I wonder how similar or not Helmut Lang and Rick Owens are?

[@dfinite1111]

But where is the real Helmut Lang? What happened to him?

[@understitchYT]

Hes an artist now, living happily in the countryside

[@omarmyia]

Also, I didn't like the new collection either, it's really tacky - but I'm sure it will sell well in New York cause I can see Carrie Bradshaw wearing them.

[@understitchYT]

Its exceptionally wearable yeah, but then Helmut nearly always was so idk if thats necessarily a bad thing. Someone else commented to say there was a lack of vulnerability though and I think theyre probably right, there was no risk, no excitement here and thats the essence of the og designer that was mussing

[@ameenworkshop]

I loved Shayne at Helmut Lang!

[@understitchYT]

Thats great 🤍🥰

[@annishilcock4587]

Helmut Lange a household name? Which households are they?

[@understitchYT]

In the early 90s? Everyone for sure, even my nan (who doesnt have a clue nor does she care to) even knows who he is

[@annishilcock4587]

@@understitchYT You and your Nan presumably have an interest in fashion. Lange has always been niche and a darling of the conoscienti

[@understitchYT]

@@annishilcock4587 My nan has truly no interest whatsoever

[@fuchsiaboy]

Old Helmut collections would push one clever idea that he would extrapolate into clothing details: be it a type of fabric (nylon, rubberized) color (pink, chartreuse) or theme (dragonfly, sailing, NASA). Do did mine Helmut detais but peppered them all over the collection that’s why it felt like a sub-line. Rather than saying one strong concept, it just rehashed Helmut-ism. Those poem pieces were too much, and felt corny. There was not a nice denim look that has a new detail. It didn’t feel subversive or witty (Helmut usually inject some funny thing in all his collections: handcuff bracelet, a leather paper bag ‘bag’, rubber band bracelets, soda tab details…)… Maybe because Peter is American and it didn’t have that twsited view of America as Helmut is European who was obsessed with American tropes (boyscout, astronauts, fishing, military, camping)? Hopefully, the next collection will offer something more focused rather than a mix of ‘greatest hits’ mashed together.

[@understitchYT]

I think thats a really interesting way to think about it that I hadnt thought of before, perhaps youre exactly right that it lacked that cynical external perspective on American culture to drive it forward, the NY theme was less sarcastic as a result and felt less authentic or even just tagged on. Interesting, th

[@indoora]

When I read or watch videos and Prada is mentioned they always have bad business practices.

[@understitchYT]

They made a lot of mistakes in a row as a parent co in the late 90s, but theyre doing much better now with miu miu

[@paddyolten4031]

Lang himself was hot in the 80s but then looked worse in the late 90s….

[@understitchYT]

He was crazy handsome, you can see it in the doc I referenced a lot

[@brunixot1]

not prada killing something else

[@understitchYT]

🙈

[@ttran2031]

it doesnt feel urgent /inspiring and is very similar to what Raf did for Calvin Klein. ex: the color blocking coat and pant, to the color side band tuxedo pant/ to the screen print pattern denim jacket/jeans and the text with image tops.

[@understitchYT]

Raf for Calvin is one of my favourite appointments ever 😶‍🌫️

[@ttran2031]

me2 -only time I was into Calvin@@understitchYT

[@tinaroney9383]

Commentator talks way too much…not enough videos or good photos.

[@understitchYT]

You dont like my stun voice? ✨🫦✨

[@JamesSmith-mw7ps]

Oh no Peter Do left

[@understitchYT]

Didn't take long in the end

[@amumathye]

prada vid

[@louissu8947]

8 that

[@understitchYT]

🍽️

[@amumathye]

jil

[@clockedtea6318]

not to bring negative energy , ( and i really do love peter do 🥲 ) , but did y'all really like his debut for HL ? i thought the concept was cool but the clothes were so mediocre 😭

[@understitchYT]

I guess the point of HL is that it looks simple at first glance but has more going on yhan you may expect. Id like to see a second show rly to get my full thoughts

[@clockedtea6318]

@@understitchYT hmm,i guess you're right...but even if we do examine the clothes closely, there is not much going on other than a few references.I am still optimistic since it's Peter do and can't wait for a new collection.