The Rise and Fall of John Galliano

John Galliano famously was the centre of the biggest scandal in modern fashion. But, even before this, the John Galliano namesake label was often not profitable or well received by the press and public. So why is it that he is still considered to be one of the best designers to have ever lived?
Beauty Channel: / @underskinyt
Patreon: patreon.com/understitch
Affiliate Links for Books Used:
Dana Thomas - Gods and Kings: amzn.to/3sOMdUm
Kerry Taylor - Spectacular Fashion: amzn.to/3sOcGBE
André Leon Talley - The Chiffon Trenches: An Autobiography: amzn.to/3uwBoXI
#johngalliano #dior #maisonmargiela

[@traumaqueeen]

Currently reading Gods And Kings. The Rise And Fall Of Alexander McQueen And John Galliano, by Dana Thomas. I highly recommend!

[@understitchYT]

I concur, a bloody phenomenal book, really interesting to see how their lives and careers paralleled each other

[@scpatl4now]

I just bought it over on Audible. I look forward to listening to it (my preferred method for books) while I work.

[@understitchYT]

@@scpatl4now Im also a huge audiobooker, I really recommend Scribd if you don't already have a subscription

[@danathomas2845]

@@understitchYT Thank you.

[@DaltonPorter]

Just purchased that to read! Sounds fascinating. Is that where the text references are from in this vid? Love it and thank u for sharing these incredible analyses!

[@fashionlove]

I have always been a fan of John Galliano's work. The collections he created at Dior are just marvelous.

[@understitchYT]

Hes so exceptionally talented, what has happened to his brand is so unfair

[@c.w.8200]

And so memorable, I'm not even a big fashion buff and I can recall some of his designs that simply stuck in my mind.

[@agabrielhegartygaby9203]

I think you have absolutely nailed the problem for me: I don't see / experience the beauty. I am glad you do because if he can inspire people and give them only what an experience of Beauty can, then he, em, might be worth the trouble? Makes it all so much more understandable to me thank you. Delighted to be wrong at least in part....

[@traceyestes]

I agree. John is an artist. He really understood Avant Garde.

[@agabrielhegartygaby9203]

While I co not share the aesthetic response that's more than ok - vive la difference! Fashion is supposed to do this, I think. Some assholes will be real geniuses others a weird kind of seducing fraud sad part we will only tell in retrospect. As for the clothing we all like what we like and the reverse too. I will give him one thing gladly: he has got us all talking and thinking and that's a good thing.....personality can sometimes be irrelevant;;;;;

[@juanpalomares748]

Quick reminder: John Galliano is still one of the most prollific and gifted designers in history and is steadily coming back to us! Maison Margiela Artisanal Collection 2024 is by far one of my favorite collections this season and a true statement of John's creative and theatrical prowess.

[@understitchYT]

100% an incredibly talented man. That is undeniable and unshakeable

[@johnhobbs621]

Agreed and not 'steadily', people are literally going wild about the 24 Margiela show and with good reason, it was absolutely brilliant.

[@leximac2501]

I will never forget Andre during one show shouting “THIS-MAN-HAS-NO-MONEY!!” Thank you for your exceptional dedication to these career Biographies. Truly fascinating 😍

[@understitchYT]

I love ALT so much, his book is absolutely one of my favourites ever, I need to do a biography on him

[@lucky-belindaniko9732]

​@@understitchYT YES, PLEASE

[@5Heliotrope]

Design-wise Galliano was the absolute best thing that ever happened to Dior since Christian Dior himself. Nowadays Dior seems to be completely lost. And the current designer killed the brand's legacy by visually turning it into 90's Prada unfortunately, in my opinion... There's no more Dior in Dior...

[@understitchYT]

idk if Dior is lost, theyre in a growth of financial gain. Often you see that with brands who will use one designer to grow the profile and then the following to grow the profits. Actually, you can often see it collection by collection, one to sell and one to work as promotion. Obviously its not always as binary as that, but thats what I believe theyre doing now, still reaping the benefits of the profile Galliano built

[@chequemate449]

Dior is currently overpriced TK Maxx. Not as Avant-garde n died when JG left. End of Story. Even their perfume doesn't get a spray

[@miola2083]

Dior now is so bland.

[@jamesward7789]

Very smart observation about current Dior. Galliano created the most iconic designs since Dior himself, though I do love the YSL costumes for the movie Indiscreet 1958 (when YSL became Dior's replacement).

[@insulaarachnid]

I was a teenager in the 90's, these designers were presented by the media as the epitome of cool. Honestly looking back at them now with this information, they just seem so incredibly sad.

[@understitchYT]

They were LAUDED in the 90s! Helmut, John, Lee ALLLLLL were lauded and so screwed over by the big companies, used and milked dry, its awful

[@michaelocampo9786]

One of my biggest wishes in life is for Arnault and Galliano to reconcile and be invited back, or for Galliano to buy back his namesake label someday and fully make it into a haute couture house. Sadly, given the nature of the fashion industry, this will probably never happen. But I can still have some hope! 🙏 This video was great, I really appreciate all the research that goes into your work, it really shows!

[@understitchYT]

Arnault is a numbers man and unfortunately it seems Galliano wasn't the best at making clothes that would sell; bags yes, very much, just not necessarily the clothes. I wonder, if he was brought back to LVMH, would he *only* do a couture line and have other people to pump out the same cash grabby garments that they are releasing now, almost in the same way Margiela has him now (not that margiela products are a cash grab, theyre watered down a bit, but not a cash grab imo, but theres no way Galliano is designing the accessories and high margin items, plus they have a lot of cash cows atm, so I could see this model be used for the Galliano label). Really, thats the only way I could see Arnault bringing him back tbh. I also dont think he has the money to buy back his own brand, he would need an investor, and even with an investor (maybe the OTB group would do it honestly) he would have to prove that he has learnt his lesson about the balance between commercial and media grabbing pieces - which to be fair is what is happening at Margiela, so it genuinely could work, I just desperately dont want to see him get cocky again and ruin his business. This was a lot of my very conflicted opinion 🤣 I'm glad you liked the video

[@blackvirgo09]

Never going to happen, they should release galliano tho. ! Also I wouldn't want to see John back at dior! The work load is killing,

[@understitchYT]

@@blackvirgo09 The work load is just far far far too much

[@michaelocampo9786]

@@blackvirgo09 I just want to see Galliano back at his namesake label doing 1 or 2 haute couture collections a year. Dior was definitely way too much for him. Everyone loves his showpieces and I think people would pay big money to acquire those custom couture items instead of the everyday commercial pieces.

[@capucnechaussonpassion14]

Him getting back into the fashion industry doesn't seem great for either fashion housses or himself ? What would be a better thing to wish for him is to get better, mentally, so that he can stop fan boying about hitler, no ?...

[@scpatl4now]

I get the impression that John Galliano was never truly happy being a fashion designer. It seems as though at most points of his career he was being pushed to do things he really didn't want to do. I've never met a "happy" alcoholic, and in my opinion there is a special place in hell for those that knowingly facilitate and push someone to continue being a drug addict.

[@understitchYT]

Yeah, it does seem that way, I don’t think he was happy very much

[@justinwilliams7290]

He would be happier designing opera costumes and the like, it seems.@@understitchYT

[@bojanaaa]

Exactly my point. I totally agree. Very similar story to Alexander McQueen and look where that went.

[@johnhobbs621]

From what I've read he always wanted to be a fashion illustrator first and foremost. He worked for the National Theatre (I think) in the costume department which must have been a perfect match. Maybe designing costumes for films would have been the ideal career for John, huge theatricality and budgets without any need to sell the clothes

[@tonygarcia5197]

I kinda agree with you. When he was accepted in design school, his portfolio was filled with fashion illustrations. He was an illustrator! Unfortunately, that median has fallen off the wayside to photography. Remember, Andy Warhol started his career as a fashion illustrator (Shoes).

[@scpatl4now]

I have the 12 inch single of Madam Butterfly and had no idea John Galliano illustrated it. So interesting that he never set out to be a fashion designer, and illustrating by candle light for "authenticity" shows some real dedication to the craft.

[@understitchYT]

There’s actually a lot of really interesting stories of people that were involved in the creation of that fan that are told in some of the books that I referenced in this video, if you are wanting to look into more of the story behind it, I think that the gods and Kings book is a good place to start 💖 (though fair warning, the stories are quite short, a page or two in every book)

[@johnhobbs621]

Please could you post a photo of the illustration, I'd love to see it.

[@nathanjones9127]

I mean the man. However the brand has rallied on the secondhand market and will I think be more widely collected, as the memory of his episode fades. Margiela Artisanal '21 for example will be remembered as one of the best collections of his career.

[@understitchYT]

Has the brand been resurrected? It certainly hasnt happened yet🤷‍♂️ maybe you mean the man, who has seen quite a strong return to fashion

[@Air.keccc1]

They mean the person not the brand

[@kyleanuar9090]

Still my most favourite fashion designer, absolute genius.

[@understitchYT]

He’s one of the great designers of the period for sure

[@cezartb]

I would even say he is the best of all designers.

[@agabrielhegartygaby9203]

Confession: when fashion feels "off" I am definitely not objective. I would be thrilled were you right geniuses are indeed worth all the trouble mentioned above. We may be both right time will tell.

[@JetPackDino]

I remember that show in 94. The one in the house. There was a staircase, and models descended in those bias-cut dresses. Gorgeous. I was 23, I was obsessed with Galliano. Thank you for this amazing video.

[@understitchYT]

The video of the show is available on KZbin, it’s not the best quality, but it is great to see

[@missjosephine9292]

❤At LAST! Galliano... My Favorite designer of all time. I feel very strongly about him as a Genius and a man of his time. Granted, he chased his demons ( as we all do!), but as a designer specifically for me during his tenure at Dior... He reigned Supreme.... He spoke to me as a consumer and I have gone out of my way to purchase pieces from his Era. As usual, you give so much education and research and time spent watching your videos is valuable to me. Thank you.

[@understitchYT]

I’m so glad that you enjoy the video, you’re right that he was a real design, genius, his designs still hold up today, and I think that’s a true testament to how talented he is

[@TayahPrice]

Great video! I’ve been waiting on a John Galliano deep dive. Controversy aside, he truly was/is a visionary. His work for Dior will always have my heart, lol. Awhile ago I actually found a vintage beach bag/tote in the iconic newsprint design from his brand on Depop, and it’s one of my favorite pieces.

[@understitchYT]

The galliano newsprint or the dior? (Both iconic of )

[@TayahPrice]

@@understitchYT The galliano newsprint! I wish I owned a Dior piece 😭

[@understitchYT]

@@TayahPrice imo the galliano one is rarer, its for the fashion girlies

[@redlady935]

That was the most flattering dress SJP wore, the newsprint dress. Looked amazing on her

[@newgabe09]

interesting to know at least one thing he designed is actually wearable/usable.

[@martip2736]

it only shows how incredibly difficult it is or was to be commercially successful in fashion even when you have all the support of the biggest names in the industry. also, i don't understand why did they decide to keep John Galliano brand "alive". it's kind of ridiculous to have a brand named after the designer who's still alive but has nothing to do with the brand. it's like a cheap fan merchandise. but i was pleasantly surprised to see Galliano piece in Troye Sivan's new video for Rush. Maybe younger audiences will pick it up :))

[@understitchYT]

I think a lot of his difficulty came despite all the help he had. He literally had people throwing money and resources at him but wouldnt make a commercial collection to ensure an ongoing finance. He was particularly difficult to his business partners, he was very lucky to have all the help he had On his current brand, I dont know why its still going either, maybe they hope he will come back to the brand one day?

[@ljbx8]

@@understitchYT they haven't shown a collection since 2019. it's owned by LVMH and it likely won't be back for a while.

[@jonnyfendi2003]

LVMH apparently sold the brand whether or not he owns the rights to his name I have no clue.

[@amlo7179]

"Why did they decide to keep J.G. brand alive?" Remember Chantal Thomass?...

[@Patrick3183]

Troye Sivan sucks

[@martijnkeisers5900]

I remember the collection with the models running in huge crinolines and antique lace, it was breathtaking.. Compliments on yet another great video.

[@understitchYT]

I could watch that show on repeat, it’s absolutely incredible, and knowing that they managed to get the crinolines to lift up in that way because they used piping from the hardware store, just adds to the beauty to me. ALT described them as ‘lighter than air’ (or something, I dont remember his exact words)

[@PeepingUkulele]

Great video. Honestly I don’t know much about fashion, but his last show has me going down a rabbit hole after seeing his talent.

[@understitchYT]

Hes so incredibly talented, it's really a tricky situation he ended in. He actually needed LVMH money to live, to survive, but it was the pressure of that that caused the downfall. Really a tragedy

[@angelmejia5566]

I come from the future and Galliano has become on of the if not the most important designer of the fashion industry because of his Margiela artisanal show and the incredibly amount of ppl wearing his designs at the met gala 2024

[@understitchYT]

I come from the place of having watched the video, it’s not about him as a person, it was about the brand

[@mizcracun]

Galliano - best era of DIOR. He is a genius!

[@understitchYT]

Without Galliano, we would not have today’s Dior

[@mizcracun]

@@understitchYT Yes! He has a unique sense of style, he is so theatrical. A real fashion artist.

[@Circephillips-lu3fm]

I freaking love your work. You are a great narrator and I love how you simplify the story without giving away the book. Just ordered it TY

[@understitchYT]

Im so happy! Dana is a great author

[@just_cade]

I do not agree with the things Galliano has said and done, but it cannot be denied that he is one of the most visionary designers of our time.

[@understitchYT]

I think most people would agree with this

[@aleksajankovic626]

There isn't a single fashion designer from any Slavic country that could create (hell, even imagine) a good enough collection inspired by Slavic folklore as Galliano did for AW 2009/2010.

[@understitchYT]

It reminds me a bit of a maximalist version of Helmut Lang’s first collection

[@Luckimee]

Now I have to look up the Slavic countries

[@aleksajankovic626]

@@Luckimee Poland, Czechia, Slovakia, Ukraine, Slovenia, Croatia, Bulgaria, Russia, Montenegro, North Macedonia and Serbia.

[@thecoldglassofwatershow]

@@aleksajankovic626Estonia

[@aleksajankovic626]

@@thecoldglassofwatershow no, Estonians are of Finno-Ugric origin.

[@kgphylicia]

Excellent mini doc once again! This filled in alot of gaps about his history for me. Thank you for you efforts

[@understitchYT]

Im so glad you enjoyed another video! I loved making this one, so interesting

[@anonymousonlineuser6543]

Fascinating. What a tough industry. Thank you for fantastic video.

[@understitchYT]

It’s incredible isn’t it, he had so much help to get his brand up and running and successful

[@anonymousonlineuser6543]

@@understitchYT I am guessing here, but his reluctance to make commercial clothing indicates that the man wanted to be an artist, should have been an artist, but was diverted into fashion and thus never fully realized himself or felt happy. Alcohol addiction was probably a medication for broken dreams.

[@keune100]

I was literally looking for this video YESTERDAY. You knew 😭

[@understitchYT]

Telepathy

[@seviregis7441]

That first season of Galliano that didn’t sell well, yeah, I absolutely love those designs. Fantastic, he was a total visionary and trailblazer. Every one of his collections were brilliant. But most designers do a scale down of their designs for market. The runway has the more elaborate, even one of a kind, versions, then the stores get the slightly scaled down versions. Very sorry he didn’t get the right advice. Such a capricious business. And John’s story is just more proof that the world always pushes those who are great, geniuses, toward mediocrity. After seeing this, I want to collect pieces from all his collections, except the fur. He was a great artist, his lines, concepts, asymmetries, cuts, features, colors, textures, flows, everything was brilliant.

[@understitchYT]

Galliano rarely sold well when he was being creative and so as a knock on, when it was time to actually sell product, it went very hard in the other direction. Imo, if he had actually listened to the good advice earlier in his career, he would have had a good balance of creative and commercial in his design leading to an actually viable business (in the way mcqueen did). All he needed to do was to have a few commercial pieces per season so that the business could make money and he routinely refused. So when the time came to make money they were almost forced to make dramatic changes 🤷. Basically, the way the merchandise is now may not have been his idea, or what he wanted, but he was very much the reason it ended up looking like that

[@ghotiemama]

I adore his designs and was sad to see him cancelled. I saw him in an interview and he seems to be in a much happier place now.

[@understitchYT]

I think he was caught up in the 90s idea that the most shocking thing you say the better, because it meant more attention and more sales, so he was the unlucky one that went too far

[@giuseppebanno4798]

I love John Galliano, I'm devoted. I would be his assistent or Pier Paolo Piccioli's one. I love his creativity, his sense of fashion and what he did in late 90s for his brand and what he did in Dior.

[@understitchYT]

He’s really a very talented designer, it’s a real shame what has become of his brand, though it’s not the worst of this kind of company

[@candybox5360]

You did amazing on this. Johnny is so enigmatic to me...I don't want to be a designer? My gosh, tell that to the countless bits of fabulousness walking yearly under his gaze, and ours! What riches ensue! Thank you. 💋

[@understitchYT]

Isn’t it amazing? you would never guess that he didn’t want to be a designer, and he was kind of pushed into it, seeing what he looks like

[@francisstephen999]

Love his early work, mad, romantic and wistful.

[@understitchYT]

Truly a visionary

[@Sosi288]

What amazes me about the fashion industry is that people in it actually think it matters. Is like folie à deux on a massive scale.

[@understitchYT]

Fashion really does matter, its one of the biggest industries in the world and affects people on so many levels, from garment workers to hobbyists and creatives. Fashion has the power to change the fortune of whole countries, of course it matters

[@Sosi288]

"Fashion has the power to change the fortune of whole countries" Is this kind of grandiouse claims from fashionistas that make me cringe.@@understitchYT

[@understitchYT]

@@Sosi288 but it's literally true, textiles is such a huge money maker for many countries big and small. France, England, Korea, Italy, China, Turkey are all countries that either currently or at one point rely on the textile industry to grow or sustain their country. It may be cringe, but its not incorrect

[@MrDelvoye]

The talent never fall ... always a legend

[@understitchYT]

That talent is forever, a master of design

[@FlyingSnow1509]

One of my fav designers of all time… what a great great story. In comparison to his pass, now seems to live such a quite live.

[@understitchYT]

Now seems like a total redirection in his life. To be honest, I don’t think the past Galliano would ever have an idea that he would be living as quietly as he is now. Or maybe he isn’t living quietly, and we’re just not being told about it 😶‍🌫️

[@FlyingSnow1509]

@@understitchYT all true tbh). But yeah, I still remember golden time of John at Dior and Galliano brand being “it brand”))

[@linaj63]

Could be entitled The Rise and Fall and Rise of John Galliano. His latest show for Maison Margiela is spectacular.

[@understitchYT]

Oh undoubted, but thatll have to be saved for a futuee video on Margiela

[@ntumbameda6677]

Absolutely LOOOVE these videoes! It's like a refresher of things I already know and more. Would you ever consider including "luxury" high street brands like COS, Fillipa K, GANNI etc. Have been a fan of COS (AND GANNI) lately and they also do fashion shows as well as this luxury line they call Atelier? ( can it even compete with true luxury brands??)

[@understitchYT]

Ohhhhhh so youre psychic 🙊🙊🙊

[@CristinaF210]

this man this genius this .... this man is my absolutely favorite designer , i had made many of his inventions in the eighties of course as much as i could with cheap fabrics and paying what i could to have it made by anyone who wouldnt mind, this man is absolutely beyond hes the greatest of all the designers

[@understitchYT]

Imagine if you had an original piece from his eatly collections, would be incredible

[@yunyunid981]

i've always loved galliano's designs at dior and his namesake label, but i never knew his whole story. it's just incredible how the fashion community came together to promote him! i would love for him to come back to his own label

[@understitchYT]

Hes so talented, he was so fortunate that Andre Leon Talley could put in so much effort for that to be seen

[@feyzbakhsh]

Enjoying all your videos so much! Thank you!

[@understitchYT]

Thank you for commenting 🙌

[@scpatl4now]

I actually remember the showing of that gorgeous yellow gown that Linda Evangelista wore. It was stunning. I cant remember if that came before the McQueen ostrich feather gowns or after because I can see the influence in either direction.

[@understitchYT]

I don’t know too, but I do know that McQueen would copy Galliano‘s ideas and do them better, so maybe that is what happened 😂

[@ljbx8]

@@understitchYT do them better? hard disagree.

[@scpatl4now]

@@understitchYT If so, that would definitely fit the pattern 😳

[@understitchYT]

@@ljbx8 well, he at least thought he did them better and was very very open about his attempts at trying Galliano's ideas, with the most famous reinterpretation being the Galliano clam dress that McQueen tried and tried to heighten (and eventually succeeded according to the Gods and Kings book)

[@nelsonmcduff5218]

@@ljbx8 100%. McQueen wasn't in the same league as Galliano. His work often reminded me of other designers (not just Galliano, but also Gaultier, Westwood and Mugler).

[@Lordpizzacat]

I just finished reading The House of Versace by Deborah Ball and would kill for you to make a episode about the rise and fall of Versace

[@understitchYT]

I really desperately want to do a video on Versace, I just need to figure out the perfect time to do it

[@Lordpizzacat]

@@understitchYT honestly with the size of the topic it might have to be a muti part series from gianni to donatella to the introduction of fendace

[@scarletdemonss]

The only falls we should expect from Versace are seasons, an unfortunate death of Donatella or when Lindsey Wixon used to fall every 5 seconds about 10 years ago

[@saranyabiswas2057]

Thank you so much for your painstakingly researched videos.. watching them since yesterday .. hooked ..line and sinker 😊

[@dimplesd8931]

I found some beautiful JG pieces in Saks off Fifth in the early 2000’s. Gorgeous clothes but too small for me at the time. Wish I’d bought it because JG was a terror but a amazing designer. See so many current Ghesquiere designs that come from JG. IE the oversized zippers. JG is the example of follow your heart not the money or the fame. Had he just been a illustrator and graduated into a designer, like Karl L, he may have been able to learn the business and manage himself better. Great video. PS Bernard Arnault is the devil. Nothing like turning creativity and artistry into Temu/Shein for the wealthy. Thanks Bernie 😑

[@understitchYT]

Those fashions that got away are so annoying, I once saw Raf for Calvin Klein in TK Maxx and an early McQueen coat in a vintage shop and they both haunt my dreams. I agree with what you said about JG, if he had had time maybe it wouldve been less traumatic for him, less pressure and he certainly couldve mirrored KL if given the time But with JG and KL, both gave up on their namesake eventually, so I dont think he cared all too much what Bernie did with his brand 🤷‍♂️ (which is a real shame)

[@immrcat79]

First I saw the length of the video and said: really? By the last 10 minutes I said: what? just 10 minutes left? I want Moreeeee! I'll always love his work and now knowing that he was in charge of "THIRTY-TWO" (OH MY GOD ) collections, makes me appreciate more his work and genius mind. This man gave us many iconic moments for Dior and Galliano itself. Nowadays I even trying to get for myself the "trailer trash" Dior bag from the "diorella" collection.(which is featured on the video). Really love this one very much, I finally understand the history of the brand but I don't know why LVMH haven't returned it to John even more if the brand is not commercially significant.

[@understitchYT]

I was actually considering doing a video about his life story, in the same way I did with Karl Lagerfeld, that way I could include more information 🥰

[@immrcat79]

@@understitchYT yes please! I'm in! (as usual with your videos) and may I suggest you do one about McQueen. I'm also quite interesting if McQueen nowadays is a Fall, a rise or something in between. I'm trying to get which is the profit of the brand right now (and your videos are so helpful in order to understand the business) Thank you! ❤

[@understitchYT]

@@immrcat79 The McQueen videos are on the way (but wow are the books about him hard to get through), the brand video will be out this season and I think the life and death will be shortly after that

[@beardreview]

I consider him a leading figure in fashion and certainly someone whom we need considering how blend the industry is at the moment

[@understitchYT]

A part of me wonders if the industry being bland today is a direct response to Galliano. They realised with Galliano that they needed hype to sell clothing, but they realised after Galliano that they didn’t need someone to be so outlandish in order to get that hype. If it wasn’t for Galliano and McQueens success being so heavily improved by media, I don’t know if model that we have now of average brands, having a lot of hype would exist at all

[@beardreview]

@@understitchYT interesting am thinking it's culture as a whole, a lot of the other creative world looks to be the same.

[@marcusevans119]

Why was his work as head of Maison Margiela not mentioned? And why is no one mentioning it in the comments? I really think his creative flare is still 1000% burning through his collections at Margiela, it makes me so happy to see him present his edgy deconstructed work for a brand that has a great cult following for unique designs. But I don’t know the numbers on paper of how successful it’s been, will there be a seperate video of Galliano at Margiela?

[@understitchYT]

Because the video isnt about John as a person or about Margiela. Im talking about the brand specifically, so its irrelevant information (though Id love to do videos on both at some point)

[@nekrorose8533]

McQueen, Galliano, and Lagerfeld❤ I miss the fashion scene up to the 2010s It's in a coma now..Most of the Kings and Queens of fashion are dead or dying.

[@understitchYT]

All incredible designers for sure, but hopefully this opens the stage to a new gene

[@Bibi-fd4td]

I ❤ your videos. I always feel smarter after watching.

[@understitchYT]

You are kind, you are smart, you are appreciated 🙌

[@linabelinaa]

love your videos. can you consider doing one on American Apparel? even though it was mostly basics and not necessarily high end (although pricey), I used to love that store for their quality, they also started trends like the disco pants and tennis skirts. I have clothing from there’s that I bought like a decade ago that still stand the rest of time but I know the creator and branding were controversial. Do you think they could ever make a comeback? they were like one of the OG ethical/sweatshop free brands

[@understitchYT]

I really want to cover more accessible retail actually, Ive always loved high fashion, but the highstreet logistics are bloody fascinating and have always kept my interest. Tbh I was planning on saving that expansion until I was a but bigger of a channel, but with so many bridge and diffusion lines now, it certainly could be discussed sooner 😇

[@sonyakinsey4376]

Galliano was great illustrator but not a great designer in the classic sense. I'm reminded of recent fashion reality shows, where we see people who can sketch pretty things but can't cut a pattern or sew to save their lives. Growing up with a mother who was a professional seamstress, I just find this sad. And most if them, or none, have Galliano's vision to compensate. This is why Alexander McQueen is the GOAT for me. He had the vision, could design and sew, and understood fit and tailoring. Hype yes, but the foundation under was impeccable.

[@understitchYT]

Well Galliano could sew, he was really talented at sewing actually, he completed his graduate collection mostly by himself, with a little help due to time, he made a lot of, nearly all his early couture gowns and even experimented with materials to the point that it made ALT notice his talent. So he *could* sew, its just after he didn't have to anymore, he just chose not to (and he also would refuse to personally sew a garment for another fit model other than himself which is why so many of his early clothes had a lot of returns). However, with that said, McQueen is known as the last true couturier for a reason, his construction talent was and is still unsurpassed, he possessed skills enviable of even the top sewers in the entire industry, a genuine talent both in sewing and in concepts. Galliano also had both talents, but McQueen far surpassed his technical skill, not because Galliano was bad, but because McQueen was the best technical sewing in the business.

[@blackvirgo09]

Galliano is a master dress maker,

[@elinstar6034]

​@@understitchYT😊

[@mathilde1212]

And his rising again ! He is a genius designer ! Happy to see he came back after resetting his life .

[@understitchYT]

I wonder if his label will ever rise again

[@mathilde1212]

@@understitchYT I don't know , I never heard about his label again after had worked in his last collection. also because I left Paris many years ago , and he have to make himself quiet in this city. Many peoples where not happy about the accident.

[@understitchYT]

@@mathilde1212 but thats what this video is about

[@mathilde1212]

@@understitchYT I would have been very tired when I watched it , I would do again :p sorry

[@martijnkeisers5900]

I was wondering if you were as impressed by his last couture show for Maison Margiella?! I have been watching it several times and still get goosebumps..

[@understitchYT]

Its absolutely incredible, one of the best fashion shows in recent years undoubtedly. But then I expected it for their couture debut. The RTW was basically already couture and Galliano is known for being extremely dramatic

[@aidepaul534]

If they want to bring the John Galliano brand back to life they could always try adding JOHN GALLIANO to it..

[@understitchYT]

It needs a revival from someone thats for sure, and John is a risk, it could go very bad or very well

[@sergioolave7782]

Ngl I just heard the name sometimes and his story was fantastic, thx for the video really informative.

[@understitchYT]

Im so glad to hear you enjoyed it 🙌

[@jourdainjardin846]

Does this need an update?

[@understitchYT]

I dont think so? Do you know something I dont?

[@flynnware8946]

@@understitchYTdid you not see the margiela show?

[@understitchYT]

@@flynnware8946 That doesn't have anything to do with his namesake brand. This video is about the business not the person

[@mickho7910]

Thanks for the very interesting clip and tip about Dana Thomas’s book. Galliano was wonderfully theatrical at Dior, which seems a more pedestrian label without him. He seems rather subdued at Margiela; perhaps they don’t have the same budget? Actually, thinking about it, he does seem like an unusual fit for Margiela.

[@understitchYT]

Yeah, he was a very unusual fit for Margiela for sure, Im not really sure what they were thinking, but it is stunning beautiful and the retail method Galliano helped begin at Dior is suiting them very well, their accessories and tabi sales are through the roof

[@mickho7910]

Thanks for replying - I’m glad that both Galliano and Margiela are doing well. You’re right, the unravelling knitwear is gorge.@@understitchYT

[@understitchYT]

@@mickho7910 I try to reply to everyone if I can, I just genuinely love everyones thoughts and opinions (even if they think Im wrong, I always want to know why)

[@ciudadanakane8743]

my favorite cate Blanchett's look was a Galliano from oscars 99, impossible to forget.

[@understitchYT]

Its so stunning

[@dragonclaws9367]

Luck seems to have a great hand in many people's careers.

[@understitchYT]

Luck and connections

[@augormasterson9312]

The spring summer dress that Linda Evangelista wore is one of if not the most beautiful dresses ever made.

[@understitchYT]

Could not agree more

[@TripleVortex]

Why didn’t you mention his lovely Margiela collections? Also please do a rise and fall of Helmut Lang, and a Margiela video.

[@understitchYT]

Helmut Lang is coming very soon!! Its on Patreon on Tuesday or Wednesday, and Margiela Im also desperate to do 🥰

[@TripleVortex]

@@understitchYT ok thank you icon! its wild how Helmut’s brand went from avant garde to premium denim zara-ish, and now maybe back to something good soon? Also dying to know what he’s been up to. ALSO always wonder what it feels like to sell your name and have it bastardized and spread thin.

[@understitchYT]

Im not including what helmut is doing now in the video bcs its not reflected in the brand, but hes an artist now, a fine artist and hes proud of his work at the brand

[@emmahamer286]

love your videos as usual you're doing so many good research ! can you please do one on Wolford please ???

[@understitchYT]

The underwear brand? Thatd be so interesting actually

[@emmahamer286]

@@understitchYT Yes the Austrian one selling tights, bodysuits … Happy if I gave you a nice idea 🫶🏼

[@jakecavendish3470]

To be fair he did do a bit more than say an anti-semitic insult, which is what some people portray it as. He literally celebrated the Holocaust, said he loved Hitler, and told people he wanted all Jews sent to the gas chambers. I am sure there may well be severe mental health issues behind it, but something like that is just far too much for a brand to recover from, you can't keep the culprit on the team and PR your way out of something like that so I do totally understand why he was dropped.

[@nelsonmcduff5218]

In addition to being anti-semitic, his diatribe was also misogynistic. I think he deserved what he got.

[@understitchYT]

Oh definitely, he should have been dropped, it was an awful thing to say whether he meant it or not. But that does not also mean that the company is not culpable as well. They worked him to this level, and they knew they were doing it. They were aware of his troubles and did nothing to help, they even enabled it to make money

[@jakecavendish3470]

@@understitchYT Oh definitely, I am sure they did exploit him in terms of workload

[@janbarrett4544]

His tirade of antisemitism cannot be forgiven.Any support for sending Jews to the gas chamber is an abomination no matter how much alcohol he had consumed to unleash that opinion.

[@tmmartinesq.6216]

Always admired John Galliano ❤

[@understitchYT]

he's genuinely very talented

[@jameswilkinson2131]

Galliano is at the very top. His latest collection for Margiela is one of the best ever .

[@understitchYT]

Video is about the brand, not the person

[@jordanball-z]

I would love to hear your thoughts on the Maison Margiela show from a couple weeks ago

[@understitchYT]

It was absolutely incredible, true artistry and very blatant in its goal. It knew it wasn't a commercial collection, it was promotion for the brand, securing their artistic merit; and it worked

[@DumiNihi]

Damn he really kept getting in his own way.

[@understitchYT]

Yep, and not really thanking anyone

[@johnhobbs621]

Ps I met Steven once, a then friend who I studied fashion with at Middlesex briefly worked for John after graduating and introduced me to Steven in Subterania nightclub in Ladbroke Grove. John was there too but I didn't get to meet him. Now Steven pretty much always gets a bad press but when I met him I found him very bright, warm and interesting to talk to. I enjoyed meeting him very much.

[@understitchYT]

Oh that is very interesting. Do you think its exactly that demeanour that allowed him to gate keep Galliano so successfully?

[@llkoolbean4935]

Always been a fan. Supremely talented

[@understitchYT]

Agreed, very artistically gifted

[@broddablack5290]

My favourite collection was black, it was absolutely amazing

[@understitchYT]

Its interesting that both him and McQueen had Black collections

[@broddablack5290]

Sad what happened to John, who I’ve met on several occasions

[@understitchYT]

How lucky!

[@nobody764-j9n]

Pip Hacket did a lot of hats , John used in many shows. For free of course. She deserves a show of hers. Amazing milliner.

[@understitchYT]

Oh I didnt know thank you!

[@johnhobbs621]

A fantastic piece of research and very fair representation, the only thing I'd question is your statement that John has made 'a bit of a comeback' since his firing at Dior when, from the moment he began at Margiela, there has been a huge buzz and excitement with the Artisanal 24 collection THE most loved and talked about shows in recent fashion history

[@understitchYT]

Well, tbh, Im painfully british and when we downplay something like that it usually means the exact opposite, so ‘bit of a comeback’ would mean ‘a damn strong return’. But on top of that, this video was out before the artisanal 24 collection, otherwise I probably wouldve mentioned it 🤍

[@sherryluna8325]

My cousin Gianfranco Ferre was the designer before John Galliano. He stepped down to open his own design house in Milan.

[@understitchYT]

He was there for seven years, right? I was always curious about why he left because it seems like Bernard pushed him out in favour of splashy designers to fit his new idea of luxury

[@broddablack5290]

It was my favourite brand! Love what he’s doing at Margriela

[@understitchYT]

I enjoy ut too, but I understand the criticism also

[@DiabolikalFollikles]

The models in his shows were so animated, lively, and enjoyable to watch, unlike the zombie, empty-souled , dead-eyed models of today.

[@understitchYT]

Theyre still very animated in his Margiela shows, I try to catch them all because of it, idk why that got lost, but its such a shame

[@michelebreen1735]

Wonderful work on Galliano! Well done!

[@understitchYT]

Thank you so much 🥰

[@liv-turner]

Much of what you are saying artistically about galliano in the 80s I picture Victor and Rolf. Love to hear your opinion on that brand

[@understitchYT]

one of my favourites creatively

[@agabrielhegartygaby9203]

This guy's misogyny has his models half naked exposed on the runway - his contempt for his audience, his customers, his supporters reveal something more disturbing. This man (half way through this excellent video) seems incapable of empathy, ordinary interpersonal understanding and respect - people will put up with anyone to make some kind of money. How stupid! A drunk finds enablers - how creative! Fashion fools follow jerks like this. He doesn't even care about his reputation. When a narcissist loses interest in authentic self interest because it requires meeting commitments made to others, we call them psychopaths. The outcome is sadly predictable. I am at 2010...in the video....I think I know what's coming and I will admit it if I am wrong. This is going to end horribly.

[@understitchYT]

imo, I dont know if its contempt for his audience so much as ego mania or selfishness. He just got a lot of people telling him how brilliant he was and therefore didn't think his customer knew as much as he did, which is obviously very foolish for retail. He not only found enablers for his addictions, but also for his way of thinking and so yeah, youre right that the outcome was predictable

[@agabrielhegartygaby9203]

@@understitchYT Great point! Using the enabling model just as the drunk ends up in the worst possible state, a series of yes-men/women inflame hubris....we all know where that leads.

[@tonygarcia5197]

The Rise and Fall and RISE AGAIN!!!!! HE’s a TRUE designer and because of that he will ALWAYS RISE!!!

[@understitchYT]

He’s a great designer, but the brand itself is a shell now

[@saidahjules3435]

Dior had the best era with Galliano. Galliano is genius. That’s really shocking how our society is to remove him for comments in a restaurants. That’s so unfair. So many celebrities with drugs, abuse and etc and they are up there.

[@understitchYT]

And yet it wasnt profitable, its so interesting isnt it? At the time the couture made almost no sales at all, McQueen ended ip far outselling Galliano while he was at Givenchy, which is such a shame because there are now less Galliano Dior for museums (love both, but its a shame still)

[@virginie1725]

Amazing !!!! A new video !!! Thank you !!!

[@understitchYT]

Hope you like it 🙌

[@virginie1725]

As a french, Galliano is if course a major designer of the nineties. I still remember the "j'adore Dior" tee-shirt that every girl had to wear.

[@David-d2m2c]

At his peak a work load completely unsustainable, a man torn between unbridaled adulation, dubious working alliances, unchecked creative intoxication and personal peril .... a cautionary tale .....he has certainly has found his stride with Margiela ... the current ongoing narrative of the house is proving sensational .... an inspired pairing .....a thought also for late Oscar de la Renta for reaching out to him and opening a door when he was virtually an outcast .....

[@dancehallincommon4207]

Visionary almost every piece from his past is relevant today. Pure artist God bless you 🇬🇾🇨🇦⭕️=⭕️

[@understitchYT]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@4u2nvskin58]

Can you please do one on christian lacroix?

[@understitchYT]

I still think this is a great idea

[@msc2u1]

All I can say is John Galliano was before his time. He was the present future of fashion back then. I admire his artistic vision and sticking to his ideals.

[@understitchYT]

You think so? I think he was just about right. I think that anyone with his kind of talent trying out today would find it hard to succeed

[@Cali_Girl1]

His style is a bit too querky for me, but I have a great Long Grey Coat from Galliano that I really like.

[@understitchYT]

Is it galliano brand or from dior?

[@Cali_Girl1]

@@understitchYT Galliano.

[@noklarok]

I'm shocked that John doesn't get to design his own brand name. How unfair.

[@understitchYT]

It was safer at the time. Luckily he doesnt (and didnt) seem to care much about the label anyway

[@Sweetthang9]

This makes me curious how you consider him as a designer. You refer to his "genius" and his commercial successes and failures, but I'm left wondering how you rank him in terms of overall impact....and how you rank him as a Dior designer. I vastly prefer Raf, though his tenure was short. I don't know...just curious.

[@understitchYT]

As a designer, not as a person, I rank him pretty highly, but he is certainly of his time. I don’t know if we would’ve seen anything much from him if LVMH’s business model wasn’t changing so drastically at the same time. His lack of ability to make anything for an actual client is a real problem, and a massive flaw in his skill. For that reason, I think he lacked a very vital part of being a designer, he simply could not create clothes for the average person, and relied on other people to translate his designs into something wearable. For that reason, I consider him more of an artist than a designer, but what a talented artist he was (for reference, often artists rely on someone to translate or consolidate their work into something meant for a gallery, whereas a designer tends to have more involved in that process)

[@ljbx8]

@@understitchYT this is a completely misinformed view. you argue that he was unable “to make anything for an actual client”, which is completely false. a cursory look at any vintage fashion auction sites or reputable couture resellers would show you that galliano created many custom gowns for clients, which in essence were toned-down, diluted models of his runway archetypes. dior was behind only chanel as the most profitable couture house and that’s thanks to john. this notion that he never made any wearable clothes or was unable to translate his runway designs into wearable pieces is misinformed. it shows you very little you know of the process of actually purchasing haute couture or being a haute couture client.

[@understitchYT]

@@ljbx8 Youre right that Im generalising and being hyperbolic, but I'm not wrong that he routinely had fit issues, few sales and a lot of unwearable garments all up until other people took over that side of his business for him (at which point he was at Dior, which would fit in with your timeline too). It's quite well documented. Also, youre right that Dior was very profitable in those times, but thats not because of his couture sales, its because his couture created hype and that sold shoes and bags to the mid-masses (which was the first time this model had been used to successfully without using a subsidiary or RTW line like they did back in the 70s-80s). Actually, theres a lot of quotes from Bernard that he didn't care if Galliano's work sold or not, that wasn't his job at all, Galliano's job was to create media attention. But, again, by that point, Galliano wasn't constructing the garments, he was directing others to make them, at this point he was barely touching the garments before they left the atelier, something that the Givenchy team witness the change in even and said they didn't like. Galliano could sew, but he was bad at making clothes that fit anyone but himself, not because he couldn't, but because he didn't want to. He chose not to

[@p_nk7279]

The early stuff looks kinda ahead of its time - the grunge 90s were just around the corner!

[@understitchYT]

Truly truly incredible. Maybe thats why the brand is still around, maybe one day itll return to its former glory

[@tanya__________]

Ooh this is a big one!

[@understitchYT]

45 minutes isn’t for the faint hearted 😂

[@dk-ct6rw]

A phenomenal designer. He will always have a place among the greatest designers. I pray his star continues to rise.

[@understitchYT]

Most definitely, a real shame what happened to his namesake though. Actually, I think he's the first designer to have a scandal that truly ruined his namesake brand, only for him then to return in spite of how bad the namesake is

[@trevortrevatrevortreva1520]

Seriously sad how vicious the fashion industry remains and unnecessary the clash of personalities often are between creatives and business.

[@understitchYT]

There was a reason it got the reputation for being bitchy 🫣

[@Carducci1959]

What Galliano did at Dior was, looking back was ridiculous! He was constantly under the infleunce of drugs and alcohol.

[@understitchYT]

Its so interesting because it it wasnt for arnault rethinking luxury commerce he wouldve gone down in history as someone that was obnoxious and couldnt keep his ego out of it long enough to actually sell something. But instead Dior allowed him the structure to truly show his talent and fund incredible shows unlike anything seen before. Really its imo one of the best examples of a business actually fostering creative talent. It was for their own profit of course, they werent doing it from goodness, but it still had thay effect

[@user-nw5mi6re9m]

Galliano, Mugler and McQueen ❤

[@understitchYT]

Im working on McQueen now 🙊

[@user-nw5mi6re9m]

@@understitchYT Yay! Excited for this.

[@MsMounen]

I'm surprised he was arrested. People are saying and doing a lot worse now.

[@germanantoniopiedrahita9404]

It's no easy to be on the top of the palm tree, then fall down and brake down into many pieces. But at the same he's life story has teaching a big lesson to the fashion industry Seen him today is something great, he is humble and CERO ARROGANCE and he wants to be invisible during and at the end of the show. We all have learned about our vulnerability and how easy it is today to fall into disgrace just because we thought that we can say or do anything. KEEP ON amusing us Mr. Galiano

[@understitchYT]

Yeah I agree. Many people in that top position have spoken about how difficult it is and how much pressure there is with 0 assistance. It cannot have been easy. But it genuinely seems he has grown and healed from then, hopefully its back upwards from here

[@seriliaykilel]

Would love an update after he owned the spring runway this year

[@understitchYT]

Theres no update, this video was about the brand not the person

[@tdsollog]

The newspaper print dress that Carrie wore on SATC lives rent free in my brain. ❤🎉

[@understitchYT]

right?! omg I still die over it, its so iconic

[@tdsollog]

@@understitchYT We need more adventurous fashion. But, I was a kid in the 70s and 80s, so I'm biased.

[@understitchYT]

@@tdsollog My dad was a new romantic and he never lets me forget it ahha

[@tdsollog]

@@understitchYT 😎💕

[@SquizzMe]

His work was revolutionary. Although, he did have the most powerful people in the industry pulling stunts for him.

[@understitchYT]

Right, he was talented, but noone wouldve seen it if it wasnt for everyone that helped him

[@SquizzMe]

@@understitchYT Exactly. Heaven knows how many more other talented designers are laying about but without John's connections.

[@agabrielhegartygaby9203]

Did not see the anti semitic tirade as the means to his self defeating end......? Avant Gorge even in political hate speech,,,,I feel so sorry for all those who did the hard work (not him) - to make whatever success this man achieved happen. They are sadly enablers. The misogyny is so obvious. People won't criticize a gig that makes money. Sometimes the fashion industry disgusts me.

[@understitchYT]

People wont stop a moving train, thats for sure. If the creative is making money, theres little thought for the wellbeing of that person

[@broddablack5290]

I love that 50s collection and Linda’s yellow dress

[@understitchYT]

She once said it was her favourite dress ever