Uni-Byte 0160 - Simpson 270 Teardown and Initial Troubleshooting

[@guateque1718]

I have always wanted a Simpson.

[@shagreobe]

Me too! They are the best in my opinion

[@uni-byte]

Keep you reyes open on eBay. Good deals come up once in a while.

[@anthonyshiels9273]

I would LOVE to see a video presentation about calibrating your Simpson 270.

[@ElectromagneticVideos]

Great video - Simpson meters were about as good as you can get in terms of analog. To fix the part that broke off, I once saw someone use superglue (ie Crazy Glue) dropped on baking soda (not baking power) to replace some brittle plastic. The glue and baking soda formed a very solid material that also was firmly attached to where the original piece had been broken. Then file it to shape and drill in where you need a screw. DISCLAIMER - I have never done this myself, so experiment first if you decide to try it.

[@uni-byte]

Thanks for the suggestion. I too have never tried that. Maybe worth doing an experiment or two.

[@ElectromagneticVideos]

@@uni-byte If it works, hope you do a video on it!

[@karsonbranham3900]

I have a 260-8 and a 270-5. Both great meters for my needs in maintaining and repairing aircraft and aviation electronics. I stared with a micro at clamshell, went to a Fluke 77, then came to the Simpson about 9 years ago, and would not have anything else, except for maybe a Triplett 630 or something like that. A good epoxy adhesive will restore that broken Bakelite to like new, the contamination on the contacts, may be able to be corrected by pulling the board loose?

[@uni-byte]

They are great meters. Thanks for the ideas.

[@t1d100]

For the screw issue... I did not study the video so closely to know if this would work, but maybe reverse the holding force... Rough up all surfaces with sand paper. Clean same with a degreaser. You want to remove the wax from the plastic surfaces, so the glue will get a bite. Acquire a piece of threaded bar stock that is the same size as the screw. Screw it into the remaining stanchion, as much as possible. Layer in epoxy and wide weave fabric to create something like fiber glass. Saturate the fabric, before laying it in (emphasis.) Try to mimic the original stanchion shape. If you could make it larger and still have everything fit in place, all the better. Use a nut to secure its other end to the case. Now, the holding force is not working against the weak spot, which is the broken stanchion. HTH.

[@t1d100]

Additional thinking... I have made dams with painter's tape and Blue Tack putty, to create a rough shape and to prevent the epoxy from running out of the area where it is needed.

[@uni-byte]

Yeah, I have been having ideas like this too. Since the material is Bakelite, the surfaces where the break occurred are very rough. I think most good adhesives would do a fair job of cementing the broken piece back into place, then shore it up with some sort of epoxy after roughening up the exterior surfaces. A greased screw, removed before 100% set took hold, would do a good job of retaining the thread.

[@SolderBrothers]

A really secure glue joint is super glue and baking soda. Gouge the surfaces to give the materials a bite. They are an ugly fix, so use it where it won't be seen. Also the bigger the fillet of glue and soda is better. You can start with the super glue or the baking soda, and alternate either one to build it up. It will get hot and will smoke a bit. Use In a well ventilated area.

[@uni-byte]

Maybe I'll look into that.

[@624Dudley]

Suggestion: to explain Taut Band Suspension to those unfamiliar with it, it may help to remind listeners of those 400-day anniversary clocks with torsion pendulums. Quite similar, other than being bidirectional. 👍

[@uni-byte]

Nice! Thanks for posting that!

[@624Dudley]

@@uni-byte 👍

[@anthonyshiels9273]

If you are dealing with Genuine Bakelite rather than a modern plastic analogue you should use Selleys 5 Minute Araldite Epoxy AFTER ensuring that the surfaces are properly cleaned.

[@uni-byte]

Yeah, it's real Bakelite. I'll look that up, thanks.

[@richardjamsek7080]

JB Weld

[@HVACR559]

Last week the clear plastic fork for zeroing the meter broke. I'm not sure if ihay is fixable.

[@uni-byte]

That would be a difficult repair. If yo have all the pieces you could try cyanoacrylate glue (super glue) or if you know someone with the skills have one printed. The adjustment can still be made, but you will have to remove the face every time.

[@HVACR559]

@uni-byte I will try that if I can carefully make the adjustment. I wish I could carry the 270 in the van but the vibration and environment would kill it. My day to day work horse it's my FLUKE 87 V MAXX, sometimes really gets put through the winger! Last night working all night in a heavy fog pulled it out this. AM and it looked like I left it out in the rain.

[@shagreobe]

maybe JB Weld would hold

[@uni-byte]

Possibly. It has a good reputation.

[@jakubczajka4275]

No emissions. At least now I know what is the point of buying one. Have you been using filter from episode 74 for anything at all? I hope you are feeling better.

[@uni-byte]

On the filter, yes. See the 3 part series on the wall wart eliminator. Video 99 is the first one.

[@guateque1718]

Gorilla glue.