Unveiling the Mystery: Is your house equipped with 60-amp or 100-amp service?

[@Sparky-ww5re]

I like these video. Keep em coming. Based on my experience the presence of a small circular meter base doesn't automatically mean a 60 amp service although it typically indicates an older service that might be 60, or even 30 at 120 volts if is a home built pre-WWII and never replaced (super rare) the way I judge service size is as follows. I look at the size of the service entrance wires, if it's in conduit I will pull the cover off the panel and note the size coming in. I verify that against the main breaker or fuses. I also like to verify the rating of the panel. I use the lowest of the three. If I have a 200 amp panel, a 200 amp main breaker, fed by a 4 awg copper, good for 100 amps, then I note it as 100 amp service. I also note this as a potential fire hazard since this cable could not withstand the potential of 200 amps. I also like to count the number of conductors attached to the drop. 3 wires connected = your typical 120/240 split phase. 2 wires, or 3 with one tied back, = an antiquated 120 volt service, usually 30 but sometimes 60 amps, 4 wires connected = a 3 phase service, 208 or 240 volts (super rare)

[@Sparky-ww5re]

In the 2020 code requires an emergency disconnect at the meter, for first responders to shut off power. Speaking of how far you are allowed to have the panel away from the meter before requiring a meter breaker, it can vary depending on jurisdiction, and whether the service entrance wires are protected in conduit. Because the service conductors have no overcurrent protection (except for the primary fuse on the pole, which is sized by the utility only to protect the transformer) if the cable is damaged say by a nail or screw, it will be meltdown time, by the time the primary fuse blows or the drop melts and stops power, your home will have already caught fire.

[@ryanpaaz]

That is an old system. I wonder what an actual electrician would say because everything (except the bent feed) appears to be in good order. While it is old, I'd hesitate to change it out just for the sake of changing it. That house is probably close to needing a remodel and some plumbing re pipe work. When you're blowing open walls and ripping out old floors to do that work would be a good time to start changing your electrical service.

[@hawleyhomeinspectionsllc2899]

I agree a complete remodel would be the correct time to do a total overhaul. However, safety issues trump pie-in-the-sky dreams of one day doing a complete overhaul. Fix it all, or fix the most important issues first.

[@tedlahm5740]

I go back to 30 amp service (observation). Only had one side of the split One hot and one neutral. I called that 30 amp service.

[@hawleyhomeinspectionsllc2899]

That would be 120v for sure, but the amperage would be determined by the wire size and breaker.

[@robpaints100]

My friend is buying a house with 60 amp service and wants to add a hot tub. Does he have enough amps to do that? 1400 sq foot with central ac and 240v dryer and stove. Thanks.

[@hawleyhomeinspectionsllc2899]

A hot tub typically pulls 50 amps, so no. Your friend should contact a qualified electrician to considerer upgrading to 100 or 200 amp service. I would say the electrician is going to recommend 200 amp.

[@robpaints100]

@@hawleyhomeinspectionsllc2899 Thank you.

[@robertsitch1415]

The 60 amp service is either right at its limit or if they have an electric stove and dryer they already have to ration power.

[@joecool4656]

Another potential option is to get a heat pump water heater for hot tubs and pools. That will drop the demand and be cheaper to run

[@greenspiraldragon]

No very doubtful. Only if he cuts it off when using stove or dryer. I had a hot tub on a 60 amp but everything was gas and even then I couldn't run certain things without tripping a breaker. You could use a gas or propane heated hot tub.