Why is there more than 200 A worth of breakers inside of a 200 amp panel?!

[@oddfulljobs]

The fancy term that EEs use for this is “load diversification”… 😁. Great explanation! -Erik with Square-D

[@ElectricianU]

Thanks for watching my friend! Good to know ⚡️⚡️

[@tommypartin6431]

Square-D, best in the business. 🤘

[@UnifiedInfo]

Ehh my boss is a fan of the square D line of products👍

[@dracula3811]

@@tommypartin6431 i concur. That's why i replaced my panel with a square D one.

[@Christiones]

Yerrr SqD Just wanted to say it lol

[@mtlanglois]

You had me at 73 vacuum cleaners.

[@ElectricianU]

Hahahaha

[@Hawkman6788]

Hilarious xD

[@atifrajan9411]

LOL!

[@justelectricllc]

Broooo🤣the animation tho

[@davidroddini1512]

Wait you mean I am not supposed to be running 73 vacuum cleaners at the same time?! 😉

[@justink7269]

Lighting changed a lot in 2020 code. Led eats way less of course... bra I just took my end of apprenticeship test and those load calc questions were just brutal. You never get the right answer. Thanks for all your work Dustin

[@cbmech2563]

My understanding of it (I'm a heavy truck mechanic) is that a fuse/breaker is sized to protect the wire depending on gauge. Even when in use you are rarely anywhere close to the amperage of the breaker for most applications under most applications.

[@glee21012]

You nailed it bro

[@fritzmiller9792]

Word

[@andrewdiamond2697]

4:10 I have 400 amp service, and the meter base/socket looks the same to me as a 200 amp service. Essentially, I have 400 Amps at the meter, split into two 200 amp outside breakers/disconnects. They run to a 200 amp panel in my house and a separate 200 amp panel in my garage/upstairs apartment. That then makes my house and garage 200 amp panels actually sub-panels, the neutrals and grounds are required to be separated back to the outside disconnects and they are then bonded there. The reason for this is I have two electric vehicle chargers in the garage, plus a 4 ton HVAC system, washer/dryer, oven etc. in the garage apartment.

[@SandCrabNews]

My dad was a construction electrician. I did a few summer jobs with him before joining the Navy, where I was an AE. In the 1980s my brother (journeyman electrician) was working with a Fluor Corporation electrical engineer going into 1940s-70s skyscrapers and testing the feeders to design upgrades, due to all the modern office equipment. In the 1990s I worked as an electrical assembler in manufacturing and we sized conductors by what fit the component. I prefer an up-sized conductor over a minimum-size conductor. Sure you want that winning low bid that lands the job, but sell the customer on future loading resulting increased costs of material and labor to upgrade. Also, what if a solar/wind system was to back feed onto the grid?

[@dolphincliffs8864]

I was an AE ,62E AIMD Nas Oceana 96-99

[@mikehamelin7520]

I'm an apprentice and just want to thank you for these videos.

[@ElectricianU]

Glad you like them! Thanks for watching my friend

[@kimandseanmclaughlin2378]

Residential Services in the US are ‘Single Phase’. Both the Black and the Red (Most times both are black) are on the same phase. Correct terminology would be Line 1 and Line 2.

[@scottyanke655]

When doing the standard calculation, I'm wondering how the change from incandescent to led lighting has affected that part of your formula? Going from 60 watt bulbs to 9 watts is a big difference. And have the newer appliances reduced their total load in a noticeable way, compared to something made in the 60's? Do houses now need the same size of service that we used to, not that long ago?

[@awalllen212]

Apprentice here not a journeyman yet so take my word with a bit of salt. The formula doesn't change for led lighting it just means that we will have a smaller load on the service and can size accordingly. Whether appliances pull more than they used to varies greatly. Yes our microwaves may be more efficient than they used to but many manufacturers take that opportunity to increase the power of the microwave. But on the whole the size of the average service is most definitely increasing not decreasing. More and more and more modern appliances are electrically powered vs other sources. Electric stove tops heaters and dryers instead of gas ones for example. On demand tankless electric hot water heaters instead of gas tanked water heaters. More and more computers and televisions and phones and laptops being charged. The most recent huge bump is electric vehicle charging. Some appliances may be more efficient than their counterparts from the 60s but the number of appliances in the average home has increased dramatically.

[@rupe53]

There's several things to consider here. The power we use now is likely quite a bit lower for many things (lighting) but we seem to use that over longer periods of time when you throw in all of the appliances that draw all day long. Walk around your home and count up all those little wall chargers, cable boxes, tv sets, DVD players, telephones, answering machines, night lights, clock radios, garage openers, fridges, freezers, etc. If they were all "off" it would still add up to more than you think because they have electronic controls. (you should see my power bill) Next add in the fact that we have many more things we didn't have 50 years ago.... car chargers, central AC, clothes drier, and electric water heaters are all common now. Throw in the ever changing electrical code with more margin for safety, and the size of the service has increased. In some cases the service size is almost dictated by the number of breakers required due to bathrooms, kitchens, and garages, needing home runs these days. Basically you are stuck installing a 200 amp panel for a home that may never see more than a 60 amp draw because code calls for more than 20 breakers. The cost difference is only a few hundred bucks between 100 and 200 amp service.

[@ecospider5]

One of the biggest new loads is Air conditioning. When I was a kid in Seattle air-conditioning was unheard of. Now we are way over 50% of homes having air-conditioning in Seattle. I think the air-conditioning load is still growing faster than electric car charging is.

[@electricianron_New_Jersey]

For residential calculations a formula with square footage is made.

[@rupe53]

@@ecospider5 ... here in the northeast we get humidity so I'd guess that 99% of new construction has central AC. I can't think of a home here that doesn't have either window units or central AC. It's all about comfort and convenience... even on an older place where the 60 amp fuse panel might be smoking, or close to it.

[@chinuasolomon3553]

Good job! my bro keep them coming.

[@joshuapk9808]

What REALLY makes you scratch your head (until you know what's going on) is the fact that you'll be working on a 200 amp panel, go outside, and notice that the distribution transformer is only 25kva... so it can only supply 100 amps of power at 240v... and there are 4 other houses, each with its own 200 amp panel, being served by that same transformer.

[@glee21012]

The breaker size in panels detrmination is to protect the wires (keep the building from burningdown). The utilities have breakers or fuses to protect both transofrmers and lines.

[@fritzmiller9792]

Something interesting, that in no way changes the point, the typical pole mount transformers can put out 130% of their rated KVA. Being so high up, the heat can dissipate enough and the windings can take it, apparently. Still, it's fascinating the first time you realize the total services tied on to one lonesome can, 😆

[@BigDish101]

Don't houses with electric instantaneous water heaters (sometimes two of them) need 400amp service?

[@dolphincliffs8864]

I remember 70A for the damn things. The service you mentioned is correct.

[@TI-nf5jj]

Great video !!! I am not an electrician at all but learn a lot from your videos. Could you do a video on what inspectors are looking for when you DIY your own sub panel ? I am guessing the inspector I am dealing with does not want to pass my sub panel in the shed due to i am not license electrician and giving me a hard time. asking for " load calculation"

[@MaxC925]

we put in 400A main service all the time in big houses in the bay area. we put in a 60Kw back up generator in a house that was on a 600A service though a meter and and socket. i dont know as much about that side of things though

[@alenk646]

That back up generator is only 250a max. If its the last load from the main bus you could use the 125% rule (if needed) and even derate the main (if even more needed)

[@Chase_AM]

**red leg and black leg. They’re on the same phase 😁

[@carultch]

They are mathematically equivalent to 180 degree phase shift between them.

[@justink7269]

At 10:00 you get stressed, and you make a wrong statement! Use the feeders table from 300.12 (since most viewers are homeowners anyway) and they are way less than the %125 or %80 calc you mentioned

[@philburke1902]

Must be cold in there (given the hat) or did you trip your heater circuit. lol

[@dailyinspired008]

dude donuts 🤣🤣🤣

[@lidoz]

Why can’t you make a webpage to auto generate this value

[@danielwarfield1027]

Can you have a 225 amp main breaker with 200 amp service meter?

[@Hawkman6788]

What if you turned on every appliance?

[@533435]

Great video i am an electrical apprentice...what article/code section shows how to do this calculation?

[@alenk646]

Section 220

[@ElectricianU]

Optional method, conventional method, and or standard method. Article 220 in NFPA 70 NEC 2020.

[@danielbuckner2167]

I believe both methods are found on the IRC as well. (BTW, autocorrect tried to make that say KFC so if you think hivemind information is useful and you have a hankering for some chicken maybe look around there as well!

[@nicholasrussell6547]

I'm paying 750$ a semester plus books to for a training program where my instructor reads off answers from the previous weeks assignments and dictates the current weeks assignments I study labs and lectures all on my own. And here I find this guy giving out exceptional descriptions of how electrical theory and application works. I'm just going to go over my assignment and refer to this KZbin channel

[@markmatias2407]

As a Residential Electrician for 7+ years, all of your videos help me man. Thank you for what you do

[@KenPryor]

Awesome explanation. I'm not an electrician, but I work in a "national home improvement store" in the electrical department and your videos have helped me so much to understand what my customers are talking about and asking for. I absolutely don't give electrical advice and always refer DIY'ers to an electrician when they obviously don't have a clue what they're talking about. I just had a customer a few days ago asking about the need to add up all his breakers. I told him I was sure that wasn't how it worked but that it was beyond my pay grade to know the procedure. Hoping he hasn't accidentally killed himself or burned his house down so far as it was very very clear he had no business taking on the project he was working on. It's amazing how many people come to me for free advice (which I don't give) on things. They see the dude in the store as a free alternative to spending money on an electrician and I tell them I can't do that for them. It doesn't help that stores like mine pretend that their workers are "experts" when we clearly are not.

[@danielbuckner2167]

That whole put a vest on a guy and he's an expert thing is a real problem! I am glad you recognize it as some don't.

[@williamsnyder6514]

Keep in mind bro residential there is only one phase it's better to call it A Leg and B Leg of the same Delta phase. Houses don't have 2 phase LOL

[@barryomahony4983]

Yea, and the "neutral" in single phase service is supposed to be called the Grounded Conductor. 😉There's Code, and then there's the language everybody uses.

[@teammelita8613]

I'm adding a sub-panel, and this made the Sect. 220 load calcs "come to life". Appreciate you doing this video!

[@TheBgrugbymatt]

As a homeowner I installed my own 400 amp service with two 200 amp panels. One for the house one for my garage/well house. LOL 😅 a little overboard

[@andrewdiamond2697]

I did the same. I have two car chargers in the garage and nearly 5000 sq ft of living space plus a 900 sq ft garage. 400 Amps was the right answer.

[@clutch5sp989]

So...the AC is running, wife is drying clothes while a cake is in the oven this is all after we both had hot showers. Decide to go in the garage and do some welding.

[@mandelstamm]

My home has a 100amp service. Lol.... When all of the 240v appliances are running at the same time I get nervous.

[@skuttduck]

I have 100 amp service. I thought about upgrading to 150 as we have a lot of pets and heat lamps. I also have a hot tub and central air. For the heck of it I turned the hot tub on full during the summer while the central air was running as well as most all the rest of the stuff. I then clamped the mains to read the amperage draw. I got 16 amps on one and 13 on the other. So I felt a bit better knowing that.

[@stephenholland6328]

You keep using the term derating incorrectly. Derating means you decrease the allowed amperage compared to what it is rated for. Field example, when you run more than 3 circuits in conduit you need to derate the conductors. A conductor that could carry 30 amps may be derated to 25 amps, for example. When you use the 83% rule the code is allowing you to overrate the conductors. Aluminum 4/0 has an ampacity of 180 amps if it has insulation rated at 75 degrees. The 83% rule allows you to run 216 Amps through it. It is not being derated, it is being overrated. When you talk about all the circuit total ampacity you are not derating the panel. You are recognizing that satisfactory service will be realized with service conductors less than the sum of the total ampacity because the expected peak load will be just a fraction of the sum. Nothing is being derated there.

[@spelunkerd]

These days, with wireless meters that can plot usage on an hourly basis, I'm surprised they don't use that data when planning a renovation. Plotting actual usage has to be more accurate than guesses based on floor surface area, etc. Of course you have to allow for peak usage when everything happens to occur on at the same time, but that's another story.

[@jfbeam]

That only works if you have such a system -- few people have them. And it all rests on the ability to determine what the loads are. My house usage is a nearly constant 1kW. So constant, in fact, the power company cannot begin to guess what the loads are. (they claim 60% of my power is "Water Heater"... they know for a fact this house has _never_ had electric water heat.) I know what's what, because I can hang a meter on each circuit.

[@rupe53]

Prime example of using the electric meter for planning is industrial settings where a demand meter can supply data on actual use at peak times. After working at a generator company for near 25 years we've used a utility bill to determine the proper sizing of a gen set. In this case it was a double check after the usual calculations. The reason being is a gen set is seldom required to power the whole building at max service capacity and it can save thousands on an installation.

[@kylestan2250]

"In the old days" a paper wheel graph would be used to determine use and time to plan/plot appliance use and energy savings, goes to pot when things are done outside the parameters set aside. You can collect all the data you want , but usage can vary on weather or whim.

[@twn5858]

Then when a new person moves into the house and has different uses for the house you're fucked. Square footage is the way to go I think.

[@twn5858]

I think the number one factor that's going to change the amount of power being used in a house is the amount of people living in the house. A house with a family and 3 kids is going to consume way more power than a house with only one grandma living in it.

[@CA-lk6fd]

Sometimes we get repair calls from home inspections. One time a home owner selling his house called me because inspector called him out on “double tapped” breakers. Inspector recommended that qualified electrician install a sub panel. I recommended a couple of “piggyback” breakers to remedy the problem. A lot cheaper, and all were lighting circuits anyway. Fast forward a few weeks, new owner takes possession of the home. She got my number somehow and DEMANDED that I come out there and install a sub panel free of charge because I didn’t do what I was supposed to do, and that she had a master electrician standing there with her and that he added up all the breakers and the service was highly overloaded. I said “he’s either not much of an electrician or he’s trying to rip you off.” She hung up and I never heard from her again.😂😂😂

[@smartchip]

A the olde I got the master electrician here, one that cannot speak for himself, how convenient, Being a E&E Engineer +a Sparky, we all know, you cannot Know or remember it all, That being said, it's obvious that people try to get one over on you, S. T. E. M is not like the arts or law (statute or common) that you can argue the point, most people that are not in the above, believe word can be used to doodle you, I am usually patient and ask for the person to be put on the phone, then get a gauge of the person, North America is really nice to work & live, as a brit,

[@andydelle4509]

In the last house I bought all branch circuits were tandem breakers. And the idiot who wired the panel ran red-black-red-black all the way down on the tandem breakers. Great way to have overheated neutrals. I rewired the tandem breakers red-red-black-black. Classic case of doing work by rote and not understanding how it works. It's these-fly by-night tech schools that are responsible for this incompetent work.

[@CA-lk6fd]

@@andydelle4509 Wow! What an idiot! That could’ve created a BIG problem. All tandem breakers too? We don’t put those things in unless absolutely necessary. Good thing you found and fixed it, a lot of inspectors wouldn’t know to write that up.

[@andydelle4509]

@@CA-lk6fd Well it's even worse. Lots of can fixtures and no Romex clamps used! And no, these cans did not have the built in clamps either. Just run the cable into the hole! House was built in 1991.

[@CA-lk6fd]

@@andydelle4509 it simply amazes me how people don’t do things the proper way. I’ve been doing electrical work for 24 years now, residential and commercial. The first guy I ever worked for always told us, “do it right, or walk away from it.” I was a young little punk kid back then, but I look back now and appreciate him being hard on me. I have always strived to do things according to code and beyond. It makes me feel good when an inspector tells me “that looks great, you guys do great work.” That’s the only way I know how to do it. If I don’t know, I’ll find out. I pride myself in being the best I can be because what we (electricians) do is important.

[@michaelallen6266]

They do make 400 amp single Meter Cans and they are very expensive. I've had to do it for people with Pools Hot Tubs and Car Chargers. All Electric houses with 2 or 3 AC Units with Electric Heat. Yes People are Crazy about going all Electric.

[@funone8716]

YAK YAK YAK Get to the point. This could have been a 5 minute video.

[@LearningFast]

Electric cars are changing things a lot. My EV runs 11.5 KW(240V @ 48 amps) continuous and my wife’s EV runs at 3.6 KW(240V @ ~16 amps) for 6 hours a day.

[@paulrozinski1488]

Very informative video, great job dealing with a confusing subject. Keep up the great work . People, please remember that no matter how much you learn from these videos, there’s no substitute for a SKILLED trades person. 👍

[@matthewmiller6068]

Been wondering about this some...especially with talk of EV chargers. We've got 200A service (with a full breaker - out here EVERYTHING is electric) and the "power monitoring" shows that when its super cold nights with dual zone heat pumps + 10&15kW aux heat + 1-2kW other normal stuff running in the house + the water heater kicks on...we're at like ~170 amps on both sides, and I guess you hope that doesn't happen when you get up to cook breakfast on the stove?...so how's that gonna work out with a 2 car garage having potentially 2x 50A EV chargers in the future? Sure, its only a couple weeks a year that are so cold that you're running all that for an extended time...but its still a thing that happens?

[@jacewhite8540]

Recently we have had to move a EV charger to a sub panel for exactly this reason. Coldest day of the year and running emergency heat caused their main to trip.

[@chrisoconnor3119]

You might look into upgrading you service. Usually bump up your panel larger amps or ad a subpanel to handle the additions to the network.

[@foureyedchick]

That was easy. Not all of the 15A or 20A breakers are running at full capacity at the same time. If they did, you would have a killer electric bill!

[@jdcook65]

I normally run 73 vacuum cleaners at once. lol

[@kylestan2250]

Except for heating in winter, the continuous loads typically are refrigerator/freezer, water pump [intermittent] cable boxes and internet boxes, washer & dryer loads are not always on.

[@foureyedchick]

@@kylestan2250 Cable boxes, modems, etc use very little power, typically 2 watts or less. Most TVs are LCD or LED flat screen that use much lower wattage than the old CRT tube TVs. Back in the day, 50s 60s 70s most homes had waffle irons, toasters, grills, that used huge amounts of power like 1500w or 2000w. But, electricity was very cheap, 2 cents per Kilowatt hour, and we were very low-tech. Nobody had laptops and cell phones which use very little power. Everybody used incandescent bulbs for light, and some heat in the winter.

[@UnifiedInfo]

@@kylestan2250 freezers only have a big load at startup and everytime it begins a cyle again

[@that1electrician]

What about for 480 or 208 panels in industrial and commercial buildings that are running continuous loads when the whole line is up and running?

[@damianmurphy-morris1941]

absolutely stoked with the direction the electrician u channel is going!

[@electricianron_New_Jersey]

Most EC’s would call this “load calculations.” Great video Dustin!

[@alenk646]

Load schedule as well

[@SophiaAphrodite]

" We are not going to be running everything at the same time" Boomers have entered the chat

[@timh2870]

Your upper tier memberships are called 100v and 10,000v? Wouldn't 7200v and 12,470v be more appropriate?

[@Ilikeeminleggings]

You're right

[@Fosterkid711]

So is 72 vacuums ok?😁 Another great explanation

[@scottfranco1962]

It means if you load up every circuit in your house, expect to blow the main breaker. Not gonna happen you say? I am seeing it happen a lot with people charging their cars.

[@erich1380]

I did work at a really nice house in a rich part of town and it had two parallel runs of 200 amps at his service. The lugs on the line and load side of the meter were double lugs and it split off to two 200 amp main breaker panels in the garage. Was pretty interesting to see at a house

[@Ilikeeminleggings]

Here in eastern washington that's pretty normal

[@erich1380]

@@Californians_go_home well in Florida where I've seen thousands of houses it most definitely is lol

[@UnifiedInfo]

I honestly wonder if you'll ever use 200 amps at the shed a 30 amp sub would have been suffiecent

[@ccpanel]

same at my house. 400A service is really 320 and its a meter socket with dual outpout lugs each going to a 200A panel. SOP

[@davidiannucci2138]

I just saw the video on 1phase v 3 phase wow no no no there is nopush pullin. Generators have a rotating fields of n and south poles .depnding on speed 1800 rpm u would have 4 poles connected in series to a dc exciter on back end . u have to make dc b 4 u can generate ac .the rotating magnetic fields r. Controlled by v regulator . that moves .the stator. Or stationary part of gen set is made up of individual coils of wire that r spaced 120° apart on 360 rotation .there r 6 coils .wen u series connect u get nominal network 480/277 .wen connested in parelle u get 208\120 v 3phase 3 wire u tap t4 t5 t6 for 4 th wire for 120 neutral .once the gen is running the rotating dc magnetic field is inducing voltage in statsionary windings there is no current flow outward untill a load is applied to l1 l2 l3 .the 4th wire is bonded to gen frame and u derive your egc from that and is. Not conn to neut any where else in system and shoukd have no current flow and no v potensial on conductor and runs w crckt condutors . your loops r short crkt unless u put resistance in .no push pull no xtra amps comin back to asist next phase .fig i c if this helps. Thanks 4 reading single phase transformer. In res areas r fed w 7200 v off 3 phase network of 13.800 v plus grounded conductor

[@mmartinez0518]

Dude you shouldn't be in the field any more , you are to be in a class room teaching .

[@justinnichols8639]

Come on man of course there is 400 amp main panels wtf? And yes they have meters .

[@neillmcdonald4592]

Great video, love the way you explain things. I enjoy hearing other electricians explain their understanding of why things are done the way they are, as it might give me a different perspective, or I may even learn something new. I'm from Canada, and we do things a little differently, but probably end up with pretty much the same end result for the demand load to calculate the main breaker for the service. However, we are only allowed to derate the service entrance conductors by 5%, and this usually ends up with the wire having a capacity that is equal to or just over the size of the main breaker. The reason why is that the breaker is there to protect the wire, so even though currently there is not enough demand in the system to overload the conductors, at some point in the future, things may be added which would not require the main breaker to be upsized. As most main breakers are rated continuous duty, this could potentially be too much load for the conductors if they are only able to handle 83% of the main breaker (I've seen plenty of 200A services where the demand calculation is definitely over 166A).

[@SamsLiberty]

Seems like 2X80A car chargers are going to change everything.

[@pbcanal1]

I was at a project for a small historical building. The engineer called for a 600 Amp service. The contractor said, this is a two story building not a skyscraper. I don't get it. It might explain why the project budget was over 3 million. And none of it works.

[@polaroy2]

Calculated load is a helluva drug.

[@Normal1855]

It's simple. That's the most power that is available. More breakers, mean more areas can have a separate breaker. You just can't exceed the household amp limit. You can run, different things, in different parts of the house, as long as the total amps don't exceed the household limit.

[@garbo8962]

Wonder how long NEC will allow a lower caculated lightning load now that only low wattage LED'S meet energy codes. Some nuckle heads want to allow copper clad #14 guage romex to be allowed to only feed LED'S on a 10 amp circuit breaker. Just great having halve the home luminares on a breaker and a short occurs. No problem just go out and purchase candles. Can see homeowner using aluminum copper clad romex to feed window a/c units and other heavy loads. Of course they will installnit on oversized breaker.

[@billg364]

From the utility standpoint, 400A whether 1 400A or 2 200A panels gets a 320A meter. (400x80%). Over 400A gets CT's.

[@Ilikeeminleggings]

Thanks for speaking up. Everybody needs to know this

[@alenk646]

400a 2 gang panels receive (2) 2s meters if both mains are rated 200 and less. 2 gang panels having 300a and 100a mains will get (1) 2se and (1) 2s meter. Depends how the setup is. The bus is rated for 400a and the service conductors will still be sized by the total load.

[@michaelmassetti4068]

I am just a home owner with a bit of knowledge trying to keep my home from fry it's self and gaining some knowledge when fixing or upgrading my home. Your channel and explanations are great... and yes i understand all the terms you use. Thats why i subscribed.

[@davidlight1376]

Calling the separate high legs as “phases” is very misleading. They are both connected to the same phase Just opposite ends of of a single transformer winding, and the neutral comes off the middle of the winding giving you have of the voltage, ie 240/120 or 230/115 etc.

[@erich1380]

I talk about this with my helpers all the time. So much focus is put on how many amps is put on a circuit and making sure the circuit doesn't have too much draw to make it trip. I can say MAYBE once in my years in the field have I gone out to a service call or jobsite to discover a breaker was tripping because it had too much load on it. You REALLY have to go out of your way to put too much on a breaker. Obviously you could be an idiot and put a 2 pole 20 on an ac unit but even then, in a state like Florida, the MCA of air handlers are heavily weighted by the heating element which we basically never use down here 😂. I can't tell you how many times I've put an ammeter around a 200 amp panel in a fully operating commercial building and it was like MAYBE 40 amps lol

[@tomgrummett4591]

Where I live it is very common for the proper breaker of an ac unit to be a 2p 20

[@erich1380]

@@tomgrummett4591 well for the "ac" which is the term we use (including Dustin) to describe the condensing unit, yes a 2 pole 20 is very normal. But that would be crazy to do on an air handler if you plan on having any sort of heat functioning because a 4kw air handler is guaranteed to pull at least 20 under load

[@rupe53]

on a typical winter evening in the northeast my 200 amp panel shows around 10 amps per leg. OTOH, with everything running steady state (not in-rush) I show about 90 amps. I suspect the FLA of everything starting at once would top out around 150 amps or so. (AC, hot tub, well pump, fridges, air compressor, etc) The only time that might happen is after a power failure when everything restarts.

[@jfbeam]

Actually, it's pretty easy to overload a circuit if it's not a hardwired / dedicated circuit. In your HVAC case, you install the breaker and wire sized to the label on the equipment, and it's the only thing on the circuit. Circuits with plugs... people pop those all the time.

[@erich1380]

@@jfbeam yeah people pop them all the time but rarely is it from exclusively from putting 20 amps on a breaker from standard use. Obviously if they are plugging in some crazy big thing then yeah that could be a problem.

[@Tensquaremetreworkshop]

Check out UK ring main wiring. If you are not using them all at once, you do not need all those breakers. Use less, and share them out. Typical two story house, 5 breakers. One power & one lighting per floor, and a spur for the cooker.

[@mattmanbrownbro]

"You don't everything plugged in and have 73 vacuums running" Ummm.... yea. *hiding exactly 73 vacuums*

[@traditionaltools5080]

Holy hell. It's based on demand factor and trying to save money. As well as min size for square footage and required number of breaker spaces. Breakers are still added up when considering how to balance the load and bus bar ratings.

[@heroknaderi]

Cool tips i enoyed it look foward for the next one

[@HandsonCNC]

We had to up to 400amp (320 service) because of our Electric car charger + a 7.5kva 3 phase converter for the CNC..

[@MrPibATF]

My house has 2 panels, each is provisioned with 100 amps panel 1 - House Washer + Water Heater (gas spark igniter) + AC + Attic Fan Dryer + Oven + Stove + Furnace (gas spark igniter) Kitchen + living room + bathroom1 BedroomM + bathroomM + bedroom1 + bedroom2 Panel 2 - sheds house Exterior lights & outlets + well house power + shed interior lights (switch) North wall East wall South wall West wall. It gets annoying that I can't watch TV while the microwave is on, otherwise I'd have to power cycle the internet. The house was built in the 1970s, no GFCI, the outlets are all NEMA 1-15 ungrounded (Type A) non-polarized. I have to use an adapter for anything that has a ground, or a polarized plug And I'm 99% sure that the panels and breakers are all made by FPE (FEDERAL Pacific) I can't sell the home or get new appliances. If I wanted to replace the ancient furnace, or sell the house, I have to make the house compliant with the current code.

[@Ray-rx5wz]

Did you ever do the follow-up videos you talked about where you walk through doing the actual Standard/Optional Method calculations? I could use that info..

[@stevebrule6172]

I have a tricky multiple choice question, hopefully someone with more knowledge can help me out A White/grey wire in a feeder circuit ________: A)Be bonded or have a circuit breaker B)Is the largest wire in that circuit C)Should not have a voltage to ground My notes: On the main panel, neutral is connected to the bar that is bonded with the panel, the green grounding wire is also connected to the same bar. (so does that mean the answer is A?) In the sub panel, the neutral wire is connected to the neutral bar which is isolated from the metal box with plastic between them, the Green grounding wire is separated and is connected to its own bar that is bonded to the sub panel box. In the circuit that this question applies to, --------- “The neutral wire is going to be sized larger than the Green grounding wire” (But that doesn’t mean it’s the LARGEST in the circuit right? Because the two hot wire could be the same size) --------"The neutral should have no potential difference(voltage) to the ground" (does that mean the answer is C?) (But that doesn’t mean it’s the LARGEST in the circuit right? Because the two hot wire could be the same size)

[@armyleegreen]

So I currently have a 936sq ft house that I’m fixing to finish the basement in. I’ll be adding 1bed, 1bath, living room and full kitchen as well as an additional hot water heater. The current water heater I have upstairs is a tankless that’s 27kw 240v 112.5 amps. The house currently has a 200amp service. Would I most likely need to upgrade to a 400amp service considering I will now have 2 stoves, 2 refrigerators, 2 water heaters, 3 window a/c/heaters, 1 washer, 1 clothes dryer, 2 dishwashers, and probably a deep freezer. Any help or advise would be appreciated. Thanks

[@WEALRO]

I'm nervous about 5 things plugged into every outlet in living areas , then my man cave and garage have fridge, freezer , and 2 window shakers running in summer time , fans on back porch seems like I have so much plugged in , but I understand not everything at once , I mean I have 22 cameras, lights ,fans ,TV's, chargers , Xboxes , Alexas in every room running

[@griffmustard]

No one ever bothers to mention the importance of checking the rating of the Panel Bus. If there is no data information that came with the panel, then a keen observation of the thickness of the busbar should be done.

[@theteenageengineer]

For a home even 200 amps is a bit much. However in some industries even 400 amps might not be enough. I work in a pretty small theater and we have a 3 phase 400 amp service, at one time we were running a lighting dimmer rack that would deliver 72kW to 96 750 watt lights, so it needs quite a bit of power, that was run on a huge 240 volt 400 amp safety switch that was fed directly from the transformer outside the building that is a 300KVA transformer. And we also have one main 3 phase panel and 3 sub panels that run everything else in the building and that is also a 400 amp service. What most people don’t realize that as you go through the system you are underrating your services, we start with 300KVA transformer that can do 600 amps, then we send that to the dimmer rack and the main service panel and both of those are rated at 400 amps, then we send feeders from the main panel to a 200 amp sub panel, and then we send feeders from that to 2 100 amp sub panels. But the other thing there is that it’s the same thing as a house we aren’t constantly using all of the power. When we are doing a show we run the dimmer rack at almost it’s max load, so about 350 amps, and then we have the power for the rest of the equipment which is probably about 40 amps, so we still aren’t using the full service rating and we probably never will.

[@Neeboopsh]

i am a canadian, and i have seen my prime minister in black face so many times that i can't unhear "black face" when you say "black phase" ;) ADD UP ALL THE BLACK FACES. you still get one prime minister.

[@TofuInc]

If it's a heat pump the AC and the heat will both be on during the defrost cycle. That can be as often as every 30min and up to 10min long when it's cold out.

[@rydfree]

My heat pump simply reverses the flow of refrigerent for a couple minutes to produce heat in the outside coil to defrost . The fan in the air handler stays off during this time so as not to blow cold air inside while defrosting . A heat pump can not be in heat/cool at the same time unless you have heat strips and there is a problem .

[@neilbrookins8428]

@@rydfree Tofulnc is right. On my heat pump the heat strips do indeed turn on when defrosting.

[@hankkline7300]

@@rydfree Wrong- in defrost the heat strips come on to offset the cold produced by reversing the changeover valve

[@heroknaderi]

Would love to see your method of load calculations

[@lalosdope]

I greatly appreciate the knowledge and experience you share with all of us seeking it. Also. Explained so well. Thank you, Sir.

[@JohnThomas-lq5qp]

Wil be interesting in California and parts of NY state in about ten years when the new law prohibits any natural gas in new homes then 5 to 10 years or so latet make existing homes stop using natural gas. If a homeowner has central AC , electric heat, electtic cooking, water heater & dryer snd two EV cars might need at least a 300 amp service. Of course lazy foot dragging ultility companies will never have the transmission lines or hard to get distribution transformers instslled until years later. Dony worry be happy California politicians have a answer tor possible winter toling blackouts furing vokdedt days. Yep going to pay halve of the price for indulated sleeping bags & ling johns to keep people grom freezing to death

[@MrPhimanh]

Hi, I want to install Ecosmart 18 tankless water heater, it needs two 40 amp breakers, the main panel already has full spaces of three 50amp and six 20 amp breaker. Can you tell me where I can put more two 40 amp breakers for the water heater?

[@DMin4147]

Hi, I had a quick question. Thank you for your time in answering. I just wanted to know if all 225Amp main service panel (solar ready) were the same size as far as Height x Width? The contractor my parent's hired to install solar, upgraded their 100A panel to 225A for solar and the HOA they live at are making a big deal about the MPS not being the same size as the neighbor, which is next to their panel. Any advise or help would be appreciated.

[@justink7269]

On a 125 amp subpanel, you can put 1000 amps of breakers. As long as the wires are all protected properly, it's ok

[@user-we4kk6xf5f]

Where in the NEC can I find the 83% rule for Service Entrance Conductors? Looking at 2017 NEC 230.42, it says "sum of noncontinuous loads plus 125% of continuous loads." I feel like this will come up on my upcoming exam. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.

[@mathman0101]

Power monitoring is the way forward linked to automatic load adjustment. The code allows you to add more circuits/load in a panel especially if that is backed by actual power monitoring data that and even if the calculation may say no more.

[@yuriklastalov9653]

This! Google will monitor your energy use and cut you off when you edge over into unsustainability. The smart grid will figure out when you've stepped over the line, and you'll just get cut off when you're putting the Planet in jeopardy. On a tangentially related note, using washing and drying machines makes Gaia cry so don't do that anymore, mm'kay?

[@networkedperson]

the background music isn't loud and annoying enough

[@0714will]

😆

[@jhky9611]

you were talking about adding up the loads to determine a main breaker size . another thought is your supposed to figure 80 % per circuit max ampacity, like a 20 amp circuit should only draw 16 amps max and a 15 amp circuit would be 12 amps etc,

[@toddfitzgerald7185]

Even if u can go 83% load in the wire calculation to the main service breaker I don't think I would want too. I guess if my incoming service wire was in good conduit, and the entrance panel was right on the exterior wall I’d consider it to “save money” but I almost will just want the extra security of having a 100% wire load calculation done, and just pay the higher price.

[@Ilikeeminleggings]

Yes, there are 400 amp meter cans. I've worked in a lot of them Also, every trailer i've dealt with has 200 amp service which seems overkill

[@jfbeam]

200A is pretty much THE standard. My farm, which has power to run a well pump (that I could run off of battery is people would f'ing steal it), is 200A. There's a 50A RV plug to charge an EV, if necessary.

[@samspade5648]

200A for a trailer is overkill, hahaha 😆

[@jfbeam]

@@samspade5648 Dryer, water heater, kitchen, EVSE... 200A isn't that stupid. (yes, people in trailers buy EVs.)

[@honeypotmi]

I like how you limit your video's length Its good not to cram too much info into one video

[@ElectricianU]

Thank you, it’s been a long time coming. I used to make videos that were 45 min long lol - so unnecessary, but hell they have over a million views so I guess there’s something people liked about them. More to the point these days though 👌

[@LemonySnicket-EUC]

It would be even better if the video allowed speed control. I usually listen at 1.5x or 1.75x speeds. It's data to my ears not a conversation. For Slow talkers I go with 2.0x.

[@A_Canadian_In_Poland]

In some European countries, distribution fees depend upon the size of the main breaker, and it is not uncommon for homeowners to arbitrarily 'downsize' the service supply to 15 A or 25 A to save a few euros, and live with not being able to run two large appliances at the same time. The wiring to the house/apartment is still sized for at least 45 A (often times 63 A).

[@AllTrac7200]

Been asking and waiting for you to do some load calculation videos thanks man! I might just have have to make a discord, might as well use the perks of that 480v membership

[@dougtilaran3496]

Heat ? No A/C ? No Pool ? No Hot water ? Sun Cook-Dryer ? Gas/wood (lp) Water? Gravity(spring) Drill press, welder, grinders,compressor? 30/50/30 Lighting ? One 20 Pura Vida

[@alanthompson9871]

When you talk about the "black phase" and the "red phase" in a single family (or townhouse, small business, etc.), and please correct me if I am wrong, the "red" and "black" are the "hot" leads from a "split" single phase 240vac service. Not until you get into a building that has equipment (such as multiple elevators) that requires a heavier duty service does the "multi-phase - typically three phase 208 vac" service concept come into play.

[@clayponder4423]

THIS IS THE VIDEO I HAVE BEEN LOOKING FOR FOR WEEKS. Thank you SO MUCH. Jesus freaking tits I've been pulling my hair out. I'm so grateful for your channel I have learned SO much.

[@PDYify]

I have a 100amp main circuit switch, do I need to upgrade that to 200amp? Or is the main circuit switch unimportant. I’ve tried researching across the web but am not getting any info relevant to the main breaker switch.

[@RishiDevanoor]

Thank you brother, was really looking for this. I wnat to install EV car charger myself,. and its Level 2 charger needs 32 Amps,. SHoud I buyt 2pole with each giving 20 Amps each breaker (the one that give 2 breaker each saying 20-Amps)?

[@fosarvian]

I'm not an electrician but to me it doesn't make sense that you can have a service entrance conductor (SEC) that is 83% the rated amperage of the breaker. To me, a novice mind you, it means that IF you ever draw 83% of 200A (166A) or more then the SEC will melt before the breaker opens. Please round my square cause this seems dangerous to me.

[@flybyairplane3528]

ELECTRICAL U HELLO,I AM NOW RETIRED, BUT IN MY WORKING LIFE, I WORKED WITH 24 V,125 VAC,277V 1 PHASE MOSTLY LIGHTING,THAT SAME STORE WAS 480V3 PHASE,BUT THE BIG BOYS WERE LARGE CENTRIFUGAL COMPRESSORS FOR LARGE BUILDS WERE 4160 VAC 3 PHASE, BUT YOU NEEDED A N AMMETER WITH LARGE JAWS, THOSE WERE LIMITED TO 3 STARTS /HOUR, ,, IN GERMANY,ELSEWHERE, HOMES DO HAVE 260 VAC 3 PHASE, THERE IS ZERO 125 V, SO CHOTHES DRIERS,AND STOVES USE THAT,LESS AMPS, STAY WELL CHERIO🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸

[@patvereecken6929]

As an EE for 42 yes, there's a big difference between residential & commercial NFPA (NEC) codes for calculating loads on service entrance conductors and load centers vs panel boards main breakers. Great explanation but most won't understand. A little bit of knowledge (Architects) is dangerous.

[@vonkanon3091]

Looking at a GE panel. Two 20 amp Siemens breakers. Both have 14 ga circuit wiring in two spots. Breaker states 14 AWG on it. Is this acceptable for this breaker?

[@dschannel1171]

Even knowing would be rare have this high current, I'd prefer get the 200A wire if possible instead 83% wire, it's only for one reason, more stable voltage 'cause how more thicker is the wire, less voltage drop we have. Considering wire extension and there are multiple people using the energy at same time, can be easier have a considerable current that can provoke voltage variation, like 50, 60, 80A or more. Imagine High Appliances on 120V instead 240V, it's easier get high current and voltage variation. I don't know on USA, but there are places that even high appliances are operating on 120V, what do high current on circuit. The peak of a huge electrical motor can cause a moment voltage drop that can be seen on light bulbs shining drop, to "eliminate" this effect, wires must be thicker.

[@gluuuuue]

“Well you’re never running a/c *and* heat at the same time, so you have these kind of non-coincident loads..” You never met my family when we were growing up. “… Why the HELL are the heater and air conditioner on at the SAME TIME?!” Or my family now where I’ll turn on the furnace and space heater, then notice later while going around mom left all the windows in her room open.. 🤬

[@davelavigne2133]

Have they updated the lighting load requirements accounting for led only? When I did my basement years ago I limited my 15a circuit to 1200 watts for the lights. That was 16 75 watt cans. Now with retrofits you could fit roughly 7 times that. You could almost do an entire house on one circuit.

[@Windex451]

You have to go based on the maximum rating of the fixture. So recessed cans are almost all rated for 100w. Doesn't matter if your only going to use 9w for leds... someone could put 100w bulbs in there.

[@davelavigne2133]

@@Windex451 can you even find real 100w bulbs anymore?

[@justink7269]

So basic. Come on dustin. Dont be a clickbaiter. .... ok I'll watch. Wrong! You're talking about why feeders are rated smaller. Load adding up is just fine because no wire is unprotected for more than its rated load! Every wire is protected for its proper ampacity. That's all there is to it! Not the 230 nec load calcs, that's irrelevant.