UPDATED LED Light making tutorial with Fusion 360 - Shurdle3D

Bambu Lab Aff. Link - shrsl.com/4chb8
Vectorizer Website Aff. Link - vectorizer.ai/?atk=icth801o89
In this video I'll show you how to make a LED Light Box for multi-color 3D printing in Fusion 360.
Appearance pack & DXF File. (Supporters Only)
www.shurdle.com/models/materi...
Download model files at www.shurdle.com/
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LEDs
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TON's of STL’s & 3MF’s available as well as the Bambu Studio file so it’s as simple as open/slice/print and done.
If you have any questions or comments feel free to contact me.
Thanks for watching and please share!
LINKS-
www.shurdle.com
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[@Roman-wk9bk]

Thank you for making a real video about this process. So many others have annoying music blaring the background, quick cuts that don't show anything useful etc. This is great!

[@TheCameraWall]

Great stuff Pete, thank you for continuing to move the ball forward on this exciting new artform!

[@Jaime_diaz]

Amazing video, super detailed. Keep the amazing work, you are helping so many people with your talent.

[@GregMartens]

Up late last night (between 10pm and 1:30 am) with a little problem with an svg file and broken line issues. I contacted Pete and we worked out the issues. Amazing support and very knowledgeable. Keep up the great work!

[@keithwebster2005]

Awesome video thank you for sharing your hard work and helping all us learn

[@MadScienTEST]

Great video sir. Much better than 90 percent of the stuff out there. got my sub. Cheers🍻

[@axlcrafts]

thanks pete. this is much easier than your previous tutorial.

[@sfrrob]

Dude, this is the best tutorial I have seen. Good stuff mate

[@Post2kart]

Best video ever! Thanks and following and subbed. I will be probably doing a patreon for you!!

[@JohnJerde]

Awesome new video. Thanks

[@EhoenChoi]

Thank you! I just ordered the bambu P1S that will be arriving in a few weeks and just got my hands on fusion 360 with a student license. Your thorough walkthrough and explanations are beyond helpful for a beginner to learn

[@Shurdle3D]

Thanks, remember to use my affiliate link for any other Bambu product purchases in the future! 😃

[@EhoenChoi]

@@Shurdle3D Absolutely, I have the 6 month membership trial trough them so Ill be getting a few spools with your link :)

[@StevenLettsPerformance]

Love your videos very explanatory

[@cayalag]

Best tutorial ever !!! I had some experience with sketchup, but 0 with Fusion 360.... 30 minutes and the lamp is already printing. Very well done, thanks !

[@Shurdle3D]

Awesome, glad it worked out well 🤘

[@ahmed3d169]

great work

[@SVTSpank]

This was excellent thanks for sharing. I had the same issue as a few others where the background did not get removed from my image. I just manually selected the perimeter segments for my image and continued on with your tutorial and it was perfect.

[@Shurdle3D]

You have to erase the background in a different software before importing and you’re set

[@SVTSpank]

@@Shurdle3D I used Inkscape but I was not able to select the layer or background.

[@travisreich9442]

When using Inkscape make sure your opening the svg file and not the original file, that should allow you to remove the backround

[@geauxracerx]

Great video. Had no idea components could be saved as mesh as one whole collection🤯 Where I’m lost is how on a printer without MMU to get Orca Slicer to send a M600 command to my Klipper run printers multiple times in each layer. Orca is a fork of a Bambu but I just can’t find it. I can do a single M600 “filament swap” at the start of any/multiple layers; just not multiple during each layer so the separate colors can be printed. Though now that I’m typing it out I realize that might be because I’m not using multiple part imports yet🤔

[@Kloberman]

Great video. I learned a couple new things which should be helpful in Fusion 360 in the future. One thing I wanted to bring up is since many slicers now natively support .step files - which provide better curves - it would be worth mentioning using Export in Fusion 360 and selecting STEP File as the file type. At least for me, designing smooth curves in Fusion 360 and then ending up with angular curves on the 3D print drives me batty. 😂

[@Shurdle3D]

That’s fine for a file that has a handful of bodies but a ton of my files have hundreds of bodies and no one wants to color hundreds of bodies in the slicer individually. I have exported 3MF, STEP, and others in the past and most people don’t know what those are so I stick with what people know. I have actually got bad reviews on Printables because my file was a 3MF instead of STL

[@EGuy1974]

Thanks for another great video! one question, where in bambu studio do you define "pause for color change"? everything is going well, just the printer doesnt stop for color change. Artillery Genius Pro - followed all the steps in your tutorial

[@Shurdle3D]

All free you slice, go to the slice preview and the vertical bar you drag it up or down to where you want the layer change. Right click the + sign and add color change or pause or whatever you want.

[@cloudeweb]

Wonderful video! I cannot continue to see video because every video imported is always flipped -180, so distance they will wrong

[@peppe15]

I love you ❤

[@reboundthecat1523]

This is the first lightbox video I've watched, nice job. Do you use 100% infill and make it all solid?

[@Shurdle3D]

don't worry about the infill, leave it default. Just make sure you have enough top/bottom solid layers that makes the front solid. I make them 1mm thick and the default profiles are generally 3 top and bottom layers so it's solid on the whole front.

[@jawknee21]

So for when I'm doing the front face if I just want it thinner I would just put .8 or something instead of 1mm and thats all I'd have to change?

[@Shurdle3D]

Yep

[@matthewspell5381]

Great video, I am having trouble with parts being backwards in orientation once finished any ideas what I am doing wrong? Thanks

[@Shurdle3D]

probably doing the positive negative dimensions opposite of what is needed to send it forwards or backwards.

[@matthewspell5381]

Watched video multiple times trying to follow step by step, and he first step selecting sketch then clicking on back wall. There’s no back wall showing only showing front, right and top??? Don’t know why and don’t know how to get back wall to show up, could this be why? Thanks!

[@diversegraphx184]

New to 3d printing, is the filament used for lightboxes just PLA, or a mix of PLA, ABS? are you using translucent filaments or just becuase they are thin layers it allows them to glow?

[@Shurdle3D]

Just regular ol’ PLA. Some people use PETG. Translucent materials I have seen people use are TOO translucent and don’t look great for these in my opinion.

[@earleallen3799]

love the video...thanks alot...but didn't see the saw tooth file on the site? Is there a way to add a saw tooth to files already opened in bambu studios?

[@Shurdle3D]

it's on the color pack on my site. it is for supporters so if you are a supporter on there it will be available for download.

[@earleallen3799]

Ok done...thanks

[@nanoman81]

So I have printed this way and your other way with the graphic on the front thin plate. Is there a benefit to this way ? I find it harder to install the leds

[@Shurdle3D]

Personally I like doing it like this myself. It’s easy for me to run the LEDs

[@mrpbjnance]

I had trouble with deleting background in inkscape would love more details on that and how to print more than 4 colors on SAME LAYER with 1 AMS

[@Antassium]

3:33 You can skip that whole Inkscape step by simply copy/pasting the green SVG lines directly within Fusion360. The pasted copy will be black lines that will function normally for you. A trick I learned recently, hope it helps! 😁

[@jakeMTSU]

I tried your settings, you changed two things, "group by" = color... and parameterized shapes = flatten .. still had same issues with a troublesome svg I use for Alabama football team... I was wishing lol... I use svg for signs and light boxes...but with fusion and 3d printing they can be a pain in the butt... when using a laser they rock tho...part of the fun I guess... great videos

[@Shurdle3D]

The stroke is also changed and I’m not sure what else

[@Antassium]

Sometimes, the resulting SVGs need some touch up. Not sure why, but it's not too difficult usually to replace some of the arcs.

[@Azurawulf]

Dumb question as I'm getting a p1s today when you slice the 3 or 4 plates does it stop then you take off then starts next or how does that work. And apperciate the video can't wait to make one for my logo 💪

[@Shurdle3D]

I don’t have hands on experience with the P1 series printers but I want to say after a print is complete and you remove everything you can click start next plate or something like that. I normally just send one plate at a time as needed.

[@Azurawulf]

@Shurdle3D ok apperciate it I seen the option with several plates on review and didn't think of it until saw you was explaining that part of slicing they just showed it with files and didn't touch on it.

[@philbell3231]

Great video, Made it most of the way and then i couldn't get the back plate to extrude just the section i wanted. It kept highlighting the entire inner piece of the model like there is a break in the offset. I cant for the life of me find the break or workout where to start! Can you help at all?

[@Shurdle3D]

I have 2 videos on broken lines, check those out and it'll show you how to fix them.

[@philbell3231]

@@Shurdle3D I think I’ve sussed it! I wasn’t putting the cross lines to seperate the picture in the correct sketch!

[@risingstorm1977]

Thanks for the great video!!! I have a question when i do the offset it does not let me click in side so it will be gray to exstude it i have tried other svgs And same thing what am i doing wrong I use the same setting you did and same website..thanks in advance

[@Shurdle3D]

Not entirely sure what you're referring to. You can join my discord and post screenshots and we can help you there. discord.gg/apQv48H8PF

[@xandernijhof]

I'm having the same problem and it used to work. Maybe there was an update in Fusion that changed something?

[@Shurdle3D]

@@xandernijhof if I can see the issue I can help. See my comment above with the discord link.

[@richardtepas4832]

Thanks! i get some color bleeding (black spots on the parts where light comes trough) using PLA on my enclosed P1s. Do you have advice to overcome this? Thanks!

[@Shurdle3D]

check out my slicer print settings video I recently uploaded

[@richardtepas4832]

@@Shurdle3D thanks!! going to change the 3 parameters!

[@DaBulzRock]

Hey Pete do you have a video on how to put a border around an image? I have a logo that I want to use but it needs a solid border around it to use for a light box

[@Shurdle3D]

you can use the same concept as my "connecting multi-part logos" video. Should be basically what you're wanting to do.

[@DaBulzRock]

I actually just watched that video after I asked the question. Thanks for the respons @@Shurdle3D

[@seethroughadventures328]

oddly i can't figure out how to get the inkscape to work on deleting the background

[@TX911dude]

Me either

[@Antassium]

3:33 You can skip that whole Inkscape step by simply copy/pasting the green SVG lines directly within Fusion360. The pasted copy will be black lines that will function normally for you. A trick I learned recently, hope it helps! 😁

[@wallaceworkshop]

are there any issues with assesmbling the box with the back plate? do you have to account for tollerances?

[@Shurdle3D]

Nope, the back plates that are circles or have no edges or corners are more likely to be loose and may need glue to hold them on but any designs that have multiple angles will fit great.

[@Antassium]

3:33 You can skip that whole Inkscape step by simply copy/pasting the green SVG lines directly within Fusion360. The pasted copy will be black lines that will function normally for you. A trick I learned recently, hope it helps someone! 😁

[@Shurdle3D]

Hopefully the Inkscape folks will see your comment.

[@Antassium]

​@Shurdle3D sorry, I meant to do this within Fusion360.

[@nanoman81]

Hey man great video !! I have success making these and this is an amazing tutorial but I am running into an issues when printing. There is large gaps in between the colors where they meet . Like just some light pressure will push through and disconnect . Any reason why this is happening ?

[@Shurdle3D]

You need a better filament profile for the filament that’s not fusing together. Likely under extruding or not feeding enough filament. If you have high flow filament such as Bambu Lab or esun then you’ll need a high flow rate than normal generic filaments. Also you can turn off elephant foot compensation and you can check out my other video for slicer settings.

[@nanoman81]

@@Shurdle3D thank you man just got done watching that video and printing a test now :) oh and i think the main problem is one of the component color was off its position for some reason like it wasn’t touching the other sections because it was moved over slightly. not sure what’s causing that

[@Shurdle3D]

@@nanoman81 re-import all of your files and click YES on the "bring in as a single object" pop up. They will all be stuck together and not accidentally moved over.

[@nanoman81]

@@Shurdle3DThank you !

[@TheYoungOne-iv9yv]

Hi Pete, thanks for the great tutorial. I got to 12:05 where you are extruding the lip, I follow what is done but my extruded lip does not join to the back plate after I select join... at least it doesn't look that way like in the video, it still looks like it's floating above the back plate. How to I join the two? Even when I select the 2 separately and do combine, the lip still appears to not be joined to the backplate, just floating. Any help is appreciated! Thanks

[@Shurdle3D]

On the extrude option make sure you put the “from object” and select the back plate so that it start on top of the back plate.

[@TheYoungOne-iv9yv]

@@Shurdle3D Thanks, I figured it out by restarting 😅

[@arthurtorricer4544]

I will check out your website.. do I have to use fusion 360...my kids and I use Tinkercad.. we have X1C and A1 mini.. and SM J1.. We want to make a turtle light box for my kids Robotics Teacher as a gift.

[@Shurdle3D]

Hmm you could do it in Tinkercad but I’m not sure the workflow what it would be like. I’ve had tons of positive feedback from newbies in Fusion 360 so you should be able to handle it. There is a free hobby license for Fusion 360 if you want to give it a shot.

[@CrackerJackd]

Just followed this tutorial step by step in Fusion360. I think one of my slicer settings must be off because trying to connect the back plate to the box doesn't really seem to fit. It's almost like I need to account for tolerances but I'm honestly not even sure where to start with that. Any tips/tricks you can recommend for getting a better back plate fit?

[@Shurdle3D]

If you have a ton of tight corners then your tolerance may need to be fixed. Just do an offset on the lip on the backplate to make it thinner like 0.15 all the way around the inside

[@CrackerJackd]

@@Shurdle3D Thank you!

[@sherlockhomes9919]

1mm is good for lightpass? I see some use 0.6mm for the light part.

[@Shurdle3D]

Yes I have been using 1 mm for a long time and it works fine. It depends on how opaque your filament is

[@stevemarsh934]

Great video. I've watched it a number of times to make sure I'm getting things right. One problem I'm running into is when bringing the SVG in and running the offset, sometimes I get and error or it won't let me select just the ridge created between the original line and the new off set. I know it must have something to do with how the offset was set from the original line, I'm just not sure how to fix it.

[@Shurdle3D]

Sometimes fusion is a little quirky. Try instead of for example using 2.5, try 2.4 or 2.6 and go up and down until it works.

[@stevemarsh934]

I just tried that and still have problems. One thin I just noticed is that when I double click on the Offset line it doesn't go all the way around. It stops on a hollow dot. One on both sides of my image. All the other dots are solid. Does that mean something?

[@Shurdle3D]

@stevemarsh934 can't double click the edge for edges that are connected by 2 colors because there are 2 lines stacked. That's why I erase the background in the video and show how to do it in the beginning

[@stevemarsh934]

@@Shurdle3D The background was removed. The part that is not working when I double click on the newly created offset, not the original line (that works). Almost like the offset was not completely connected all the way around. When I click on the Offset marker and then click on edit, the chain Selection is not checked, even though when I created the offset it was checked.

[@stevemarsh934]

@@Shurdle3D I think it has something to do with how I was converting the PNG to SVG. in Inkscape. I just did that same PNG on the website PNGTOSVG and now doing the same steps it seems to work. Its something to do with the Geometry that comes in with the file I think.

[@PreCiiSiioN_II]

I printed the face part of a light box that is made up of two large letters and a black background. Each letter is a different color, so there was only three colors total. When the print was done, i went to pull it off the bed, and the letters apparently didn't stick to the black background properly, so they peeled apart. What slicer setting would be best to start with resolving this? I only had two wall loops, do you think upping that to four would help?

[@Shurdle3D]

Can raise flow ratio a bit, or turn elephant foot comp to 0, or wall overlap settings higher, many options just try them one at a time so you know what helps fix it for you.

[@PreCiiSiioN_II]

Thanks a ton! Someone suggested adjusting the flow ratio, so I am doing a test print with that now. @@Shurdle3D

[@elcochino6]

I have been following the tutorial but when I do the initial 2.5mm offset on the edge of the SVG my "wall" is not clickable so I am not able to extrude the correct area. What am I missing? My SVG is a logo with a black circle around it and a blank background.

[@Shurdle3D]

Might have a broken line. Check my video how to fix broken lines.

[@kawwaboy]

Hi. If I good understand you use 5 layers for front of lightbox? 1 mm thickness and .2 layer print.

[@kawwaboy]

5 layers are not to dark?

[@Shurdle3D]

Yes I use 5 layers. It’s not too dark for most. If you want to test how the light comes through you can print test chips at each thickness and try the light before making the model.

[@kawwaboy]

@@Shurdle3Dthanks. I tried 2 layers because I use manual colour changes, bay the 2 layers test print was to “lined”. Did you trie Hilbert lines? I have good experience with this. Perfect 2 layers thickness without defects.

[@Shurdle3D]

@@kawwaboy I haven’t tried different patterns but I know there are different advantages to certain ones.

[@jawknee21]

what happens if the SVG I imported doesn't have a solid line connecting the borders between colors? its doing a bunch of shorter sections and doesn't select as one.

[@Shurdle3D]

Look at my other video “how to connect multi-part logos”

[@jawknee21]

@@Shurdle3D thank you. I'll check it out tonight.

[@06swtc]

So my updated SVG doesn’t have the back ground but I can’t select the hole image like you at 5:31, I have to select each line!

[@Shurdle3D]

Check your settings on the SVG export and see if they’re the same as mine. Might have multiple layers stacked.

[@Antassium]

Sometimes, the SVG will come out with extra lines. I've had it happen with particular images. You just have to comb through and check for double lines and delete extra ones. Sometimes, the lines may come out weird too. In which case, you can usually delete the line(s) and replace with a new ***Tangent Arc***. 😁👍

[@susniand]

wouldnt be better to make back to be a box to fix to a wall, glue in led strip, etc and have frontplate to just insert?

[@Shurdle3D]

Box on the front = thinner wall. Box on the back = you need to make double thickness wall so that it can slide into the box.

[@reg_inforeg_info3691]

Just Arachne itself is not helping - gaps are still there on my lightbox. Any other settings? Tried to bump a little wall/infill overlap from 15 to 20 - still gaps. Front face thickness is 1mm. Printing on default 0.2mm Standard profile of 0.4 x1c

[@Shurdle3D]

Check out my other video called Arachne walls and it has another part about filling holes with flow ratio and how to raise it.

[@reg_inforeg_info3691]

@@Shurdle3D Thanks for the reply and video. Checked it and still no luck. Bumped flow to 1.08, Arachne. And even increased wall overlap to 35%., Still quite noticeable gap.

[@RandallNorth]

Why is the extrude for colors 1mm thick? In the previous video you made it 0,6 mm. Isn't 1mm too thick for the light brightness to properly shine through?

[@Shurdle3D]

You can do whatever thickness you want. 0.6 is extremely thin and 1mm still allows light through and be stronger and less chance of pinholes since it’s 5 layers instead of 3. Also less bright spots from LEDs.

[@bettydaltonnewbold2019]

If you please... how are you rotating the model around so easily? Holding SHIFT and pressing the Mouse Wheel to move it around doesn't work for me. Thank you for your help.

[@Shurdle3D]

I am holding shift and the middle mouse wheel button down. You can click the top right cube and drag it around or you can get a space mouse and try that.

[@BeEzLeBoSs2010]

I created a shurdle account so i could download the wall hanger dfx. now that im signed in i cant find an actual link to click. i only see images of whats in the download...but no download link i can find..? any help. thanks

[@Shurdle3D]

it's in the material pack on the top of the model page. It's a subscriber file.

[@Mills-zc7ih]

When I try to make the lip for the back plate it isnt letting me select the wall. It selects the entire plate

[@Shurdle3D]

Extrude “from object” then click the face of the back plate to extrude from and it will start from the face you clicked.

[@Skyllarkz]

I’m having some troubles ! When I print the face the colours don’t adhere to each other , so when I lift it off the bed it all comes apart , any idea how to fix this ?

[@Shurdle3D]

one thing you can try is changing the elephant foot compensation to 0.0 another thing you can try is raising the COLOR flow ratio a bit but NOT the black flow ration.

[@McRibz79]

Have you found a fix to this issue? I'm having the same problem.

[@jordanamaley1332]

When I create my offset, it doesn't make a selectable wall around my image

[@Shurdle3D]

Look at my 2 videos that say broken lines.

[@pooppyybuhhole]

Teeeheee!!!

[@jawknee21]

Any reason its wanting me to simplify the model?

[@Shurdle3D]

Don’t do it for light boxes, going to mess up your geometry.

[@carlburfeind1732]

Im looking for the hanger file on your site, but unable to find it. Could you plwase link the file

[@Shurdle3D]

It’s in with the material color pack ZIP file.

[@carlburfeind1732]

Thank you!

[@glenngriffiths709]

Awesome video again, question on the extrude, the original video you did -.6 for the light colours, this video was -1, why the difference?

[@Shurdle3D]

I have been doing them -1 for the last few months. There really isn't much difference in the lighting but an extra 2 layers is going to be a lot more reliable print and stronger and less chance of pinholes. You don't HAVE to do it at a specific distance, this is just my preference and I like the thickness being consistent throughout.

[@glenngriffiths709]

@@Shurdle3D ahh thats good to know, i have done a few different extrude depths just for colour shade differences, thank you once again!!

[@scottturner864]

What if you don't have a Bambu AMS?

[@Shurdle3D]

You can add pauses in the slicer and babysit the printer through the print.

[@giannivitale2129]

Do you superglue your backs to the light box?

[@Shurdle3D]

only the circle or rectangle ones. The ones with many bends and corners and such hold themselves in pretty tight.

[@Antassium]

Idk how people use superglue on these prints. It always gives me trouble.

[@Shurdle3D]

@@Antassium gloop is the way to go if needed!

[@jallens1977]

Why will it not let me move the bodies to the black folder?

[@Shurdle3D]

That’s way too vague of a question for me to know that one. You can join the discord and put some screenshots and what not if you want. Discord link is on my homepage shurdle.com

[@JenniferClements-vw6yf]

I would love to make my kids a corvette lightbox. Are these websites free? I have never even created my own 3D print, but would love to.

[@Shurdle3D]

@@JenniferClements-vw6yf the corvette light box files are free on my website to download if you get a 3D printer. If you order a Bambu lab printer make sure to use my affiliate link in the video description please!

[@JenniferClements-vw6yf]

@@Shurdle3D you are so sweet! I’ll check out your page. I’m not sure if it can be done or not, but I would love the files of my kids actual cars. They would LOVE it.

[@Shurdle3D]

@@JenniferClements-vw6yf probably not possible for what you’re thinking about with a 3D printer if you’re talking about an actual picture.

[@JenniferClements-vw6yf]

@@Shurdle3D yes, I was hoping for the actual picture. 🥲

[@arielsandoval19]

Is it just mine that is charging for the SVG files? Asking since in this video it says for free.

[@Shurdle3D]

It was in Beta for about a year and they just recently went to paid. I have an affiliate link if you do decide to purchase it and can help me out. Shurdle.com/links

[@arielsandoval19]

@Shurdle3D thanks was just trying to make sure😅

[@VKeeper42]

I really wish Fusion would improve the process for resizing an SVG. having to eyeball it is not a very good method when every other function in the program is precise

[@Shurdle3D]

If you want perfect you can use DXF instead of SVG. Just extra steps to make sure it’s properly sized and DXF doesn’t carry over color or anything so opening it outside of fusion will only show lines and few programs can use DXF

[@joeygenco3007]

Hey I need a lot of help when it comes to making a light box I’m trying to make one for a friend is there anyway you could help me ?

[@Shurdle3D]

@@joeygenco3007 I do take commissions if you’re looking for me to make the model for you?

[@joeygenco3007]

How much do you charge?

[@Shurdle3D]

@@joeygenco3007 depends on the design. You can email me [e-mail]

[@joeygenco3007]

@@Shurdle3D I just emailed you

[@dugy40]

no sample pic we can follow along with?

[@Shurdle3D]

You can grab my logo off my social media profile pics. 👍👍

[@Optix-Code]

Just use anything

[@dugy40]

@@Shurdle3D quick question. I noticed people are making lights two different ways. 1. The front with the design has a 2mm lip to fit into the 40mm extruded main box. 2. The front is attached to the 40mm extruded box and the back is made separate. Is one way better to learn and stick with it. Pros cons?

[@Shurdle3D]

@@dugy40 if the box is attached to the front the outer perimeter can be thinner and not so bulky

[@jawknee21]

That intro sound is so loud!

[@Shurdle3D]

Yeah I’m no pro editor by no means, just trying to make some videos lol

[@TheCameraWall]

Stupid question, why create a 250mm box, then offset it? Can't you simplify this by creating a 240mm box?

[@Shurdle3D]

The 10mm buffer is for the wall offsets. You can get as close to it as you want of course but that’s just a buffer zone I use to know how easily it will fit.

[@simplybabette]

I get to where you click the outer line and hit -2.5 but then I do not get a highlighted inner area between 2 lines I don't understand it is showing outer inner?? you lost me there totally confused I just don't get it I am sure this is a great video it just isn't happening the way you show it should :(

[@Shurdle3D]

You probably have a broken line. I have 2 other videos how to fix them. Search broken line in my videos.

[@tjans1979]

@@Shurdle3D I had this same issue, it works if I increase the distance to 4mm, but anything less, and I can't select that wall.

[@Shurdle3D]

@@tjans1979 uncheck the “continuous line” or whatever that tick box is on the offset pop up and click a small line and it will do the rest of the offset. Then you can just tie the 2 ends together.

[@tjans1979]

@@Shurdle3D are you referring to "chain selection?" I did uncheck that and selected a smaller line, but when I do the offset it only makes the offset from the line I selected, it does not continue around the whole thing as you mentioned. I think I misunderstanding you. I also sent you an email! Thanks for the response

[@Shurdle3D]

@@tjans1979 after you select the line and let it give you the error, THEN uncheck the chain button and click a small simple line you can redraw.

[@dugy40]

I don’t understand why you projected. Why not click the sketch’s middle band. Extrude to back by touching it. and distance 4mm or whatever size you want. I thought that’s how you didn’t it on another video. You didn’t project. Going to look.

[@Shurdle3D]

I don’t know what part you’re talking about. I assume the back plate? If what I do isn’t how you would do it, that’s fine. There are a million and one different ways to do everything in CAD programs. I do workflows and things that make sense logically with my way of thinking.

[@user-sn9hy6vt5l]

This is not free, it demands money to convert.

[@Shurdle3D]

I made this video when it was free and I mentioned in the video that it was only free while in beta.