Upgrade Your Drill Press! - How To Build a Quick and Easy Drill Press Table! (FREE PLAN)

[@KPlainfeather08]

Really liked the overall quality of the unit kzbin.infoUgkxajoEbapTfqWaadnqb04h6U576yxXp-FE . No, it's not a professional level drill press. I bought this product for one reason and one reason only: it adds value to a product I already have (a dremel tool).I was able to use this tool to secure my dremel. Dremel owners and users probably can sympathize that often holding your oddly shaped (and sometimes fragile) workpiece and the dremel at the same time can be cumbersome. This completely eliminates the need to hold the dremel, which is a huge overall improvement to control.I would consider this a must have for anyone who regularly uses a dremel.

[@chuckallen9778]

A neat shop is the sign of a sick mind!!!

[@WoodsmithShowandmagazine]

Totally agree! Our shop looks pretty neat and clean, as long as you can't see outside the camera's view. ;)

[@timpeterson2278]

As woodworkers, we are so used to dealing with fences that must be square to a PLANE, such as a table saw rip fence or cross cut sled, that we forget that a drill press fence only needs to keep any given point on a work piece a set distance from a single point-- the chuck. This table design is a revelation in its simplicity. Thank you!

[@sgoossen856]

Greetings to all the Woodsmith shop workers, I sure enjoy watching your illustration videos. Your project plans are easy and simple to follow. I admired your skillful talents. I used to do a lot of woodworking for over 30 yrs. Guys, keep up with the good work. 👍🙂

[@albertifergan6506]

I just checked online and I understand the difference between hardboard and MDF. No need to reply. Thanks for a great video.

[@WoodsmithShowandmagazine]

Sounds good. Thanks for watching.

[@Dave5843-d9m]

Personally I would use MDF or even plywood for the top layer,. It's more durable than hardboard and you'll struggle to find 1/4" (6mm) hardboard.

[@tyty1936]

it is almost 10PM and I can hardly wait for daylight to begin this project. Thank you for a very detailed description.

[@WoodsmithShowandmagazine]

Good luck! :)

[@derekgibbs8966]

So many videos from across the pond are long and drawn out, but not this one, perfect it’s to the point and concise well done I will subscribe

[@jedman322]

I think I accidentally learnt about 12 other things as well as the table, subbed! I'm impressed 👍

[@jedman322]

Tha hell drugs you on boy??

[@jedman322]

I did not learn what my real is...wtf are you talking about??

[@helmutlive]

These wood work magazine shops are the cleanest neatest I have seen. No money spared on fancy wood either.

[@WoodsmithShowandmagazine]

Thanks, We try to at least keep the area you see on camera looking nice. :)

[@valentinkovshik]

That trick for perfectly square threaded inserts is just excellent! Thanks!

[@WoodsmithShowandmagazine]

Glad it was helpful!

[@Dave5843-d9m]

The tip for inserting the threaded insert would also be a great way to guide a hand held drill on jobs where the drill press is not convenient. Also great for keeping a thread tap square.

[@ericrickert3045]

I never even considered this design. This is really helpful. Thanks!

[@MattSears18]

Yall just blew my mind. Why did I never think to add a table to my drill press??? Making this for sure!

[@Sportyg1960]

APPRECIATE THE STEP BY STEP TO THE POINT EXPLAINING DO U HAVE MORE PROJECTS

[@trados68]

Another brilliant guys. Very detailed instructions with the highest level of professionalism. I have delayed building a table for my drill press until now. Thank you for the know how and inspiration. Love the videos you present us.

[@NoName-qk9fw]

I have struggled for years wondering why a new drill press table which is substantially different from the last iteration always have to be built in demos like yours. Back fifteen years ago or more you built a remarkable drill press bench which I built. How ever I added dust collection on the table top without the need of vacuum hoses hanging attached in some awkward way. I built 6 inch round hardboard sacrificial backer boards for drilling clean holes on the bottom side. Some of the backer boards have centered 2, 3, 4 inch dia holes to accommodate sanding drums. The table slide left to right to use all of the area of the sacrificial backer boards before I use the backsides. I am grateful for the great drill press table you enabled me to build. Thanks.

[@WoodsmithShowandmagazine]

That's great to hear... I'm glad that you were able to build one of our drill press tables that is still going strong after 15 years of service in your shop!

[@Dave5843-d9m]

A cheap drill press commonly available is fine for drilling, but the chuck bearings are not built to take large side loads. It's not a milling machine. :) It would be far better to use the press to make a plywood drum sander case powered by a washing machine motor.

[@firozbardi5898]

This is the best functional Drill Press Table tutorial I have seen. I am very impressed. It is is very lucidly put and the instructions are immaculate, the comments short and to the point. Thank you for the free plans. Great work and keep it up!!!!!

[@WoodsmithShowandmagazine]

Thanks for the kind words... We''ll keep the videos coming!

[@mossranchoutdoors7249]

@@WoodsmithShowandmagazine my dad would love your videos. I really enjoy them,also.

[@jameskeyes1131]

Excellent videos professionally filmed. Everything explained and shown. And no music! Thanks. Bravo.

[@WoodsmithShowandmagazine]

Thanks!

[@jameskeyes1131]

@@WoodsmithShowandmagazine You have a new fan. I'll spend the next few days watching the rest of your videos. That is a beautiful shop. I'm so jealous ! You must have a great cleaning lady come in every day!

[@WoodsmithShowandmagazine]

James Keyes - LOL, we just keep moving all the clutter off camera. 😀

[@wabug8423]

Great video!!! No terrible back round music , slow enough to keep up , Bravo!!!

[@markwood9751]

Maybe a little too slow at times? i made the same table and fence in real time and still had 5 mins of this vid left to watch HAHA! No seriously though, was a good informative video! thanks Woodsmith.

[@papasteve215]

I agree completely

[@williamhoward8319]

am so happy that you are now on utube i watch every one and they go with my books

[@miamited69]

Why not use the insert itself as the spacer?

[@WoodsmithShowandmagazine]

I find using the insert as the spacer you have a greater chance of the outside pieces slipping up because of the bevel on it and I also don't want to risk accidentally gluing it in place.

[@michaelmccoy4989]

@@WoodsmithShowandmagazine BUT, you could use it to mark the edges, and not have to make a flipping guess on how far to tape it. You're making it harder than need be to do things.

[@tedleber4580]

I would round the front corners of the table top.

[@johnleins5593]

An excellent and very clear video which I would have been proud of if I had done it myself. My hobby is making simple but perfect jigs. With a well made jig you can hand it to a chimpanzee and get him to do the work while you watch and have a whisky. John Leinz. U. K.

[@rogerdudra178]

That squaring block for inserting those threaded inserts rocks.

[@bigzeromike]

You got a thumbs up for the threaded insert install tip!

[@WoodsmithShowandmagazine]

Thanks!

[@glenkelley6048]

TY for a fine presentation. I still use the drill press on my Dad's Shop Smith which is 80+ years old and going strong.

[@WoodsmithShowandmagazine]

That’s awesome - they just don’t make them like they used to ;)

[@kokenhammer]

Very good commentary.

[@WoodsmithShowandmagazine]

Thank you kindly!

[@afsharisohrab]

Hi.! Thank you, very nice small important details description.

[@vickymcbride9042]

Great job. My question is, do you have to remove the table to raise and lower the table.

[@lauramarshall6376]

I'm in the middle of making this. Easy and will be extremely useful. Everything I do requires a lot of planning (I'm pretty new to this), but this is a GREAT video. Thanks.

[@JustAnotherDayToday]

What a quality production. You chaps are pure professionals.

[@Hey_MikeZeroEcho22P]

This is GREAT....Simple, don't need a laser (.....), can Easily get the materials needed. And most importantly the power machines needed are what most of us have.....rip saw, router, and my new drill press. Only One question....how do you make bevel cuts on hardboard?? Thanks for your time.

[@WoodsmithShowandmagazine]

We made the bevel cuts at the table saw with the blade tilted to the correct angle, but you could probably do it at the router table with a chamfer bit too.

[@icysteve46]

WOW that insert jig is really cool. I'm glad I stayed till the end. Thanks

[@WoodsmithShowandmagazine]

Yeah, I love that jig... here is a video on how it was put together: kzbin.info/www/bejne/hpyvioWNo7CmbpI

[@kcrawford3123]

Thanks for professional ideas, workmanship, instruction, and top quality audiovisual production

[@Sillyturner]

I like the dovetail slot for the sacrifice board. I did this to the fence on my route so I could install zero clearance inserts. I made up a number of insert blanks at the same time. When ready to profile the insert I first set route bit to proper height then pivot the fence through the cutter. This insert also becomes a perfect height setup guide the next time you need this profile.

[@WoodsmithShowandmagazine]

That's a great idea! We've done similar replaceable inserts on sleds and jigs, but hadn't thought of doing this on a router fence.

[@PowerScissor]

Why is the spray adhesive used in this video @18:09 not the same as the Amazon affiliate link in video description? Just want to be sure I'm ordering something that will work for sure.

[@WoodsmithShowandmagazine]

The product used in the video, we got in bulk from an industrial supplier because we use quite a bit of it. The 3M product I linked to is essentially the same thing, but is more readily available to the diy consumers. I just recently used the 3M Hi-Strength 90 and and it worked great. You can probably get it at the local home center too.

[@PowerScissor]

@@WoodsmithShowandmagazine Got it, thanks.

[@JasonRSpenny]

One of three shop projects I built straight off the show! I love this table. And I think the swivel fence is 10x better than a two track linear. 👍

[@WoodsmithShowandmagazine]

I agree... I like that the through slot doesn't get gummed up with wood chips like t-track often will too.

[@WoodsmithShowandmagazine]

Just Curious - What were the other projects you've built from the show?

[@JasonRSpenny]

Woodsmith I built the table saw outfeed table and the mobile cutoff cart. The cart was great except the casters I used from rockler are garbage. The outfeed table might be better à bit deeper but it's been great. The outfeed table was actually the first thing I built when I bought my big boy saw.

[@WoodsmithShowandmagazine]

Jason Spenny - All very practical and useful projects 👍 Thanks for sharing!

[@JasonRSpenny]

Woodsmith any recommendations for a benchtop drill press stand? I'm thinking of moving from my workmate to on top of a cabinetlike stand of some sort.

[@utahprepper8925]

I am particularly impressed with the cabinet you have at the bottom of your floor-standing drill press. Is there a video on how you made that? It's exactly what I am planning to do with mine.

[@WoodsmithShowandmagazine]

That is part of our 3-in-1 Drill Press Upgrade. The plan and video are available here: www.woodsmithplans.com/plan/3-in-1-drill-press-upgrade/

[@cablebutcher2]

A great top. The only issue with every plan I have seen is how to deal with the clearance needed to raise and lower the table with the gear and handle.

[@WoodsmithShowandmagazine]

Here is our solution for raising and lowering your drill press table with ease: kzbin.info/www/bejne/aZDGgpZ-gt9qi7c

[@ianpin100]

Great vid, made this but rather than the sliding centre piece I made several wooden disc 5 " dia and set them in a counterbored hole, they can be cut by the dozen easily with a hole cutter that matches the counterbore. they have never fallen out in use. I still tend to use a sacrificial board as old habits die hard.

[@jimtrebes7926]

Very good video.Well presented. I see another project in the very near future. Thanks

[@Kennykoo65]

Really good video. Another option for the threaded insert installation block is to just use the drill press chuck.

[@briannewton3535]

I loved the insert setter. Thanks

[@seditiousmonkeyart]

Professionally made and presented howto, congratulations. I mostly work with metal and the same issue of a chewed out spot occurs. Your design has features I definitely want to include, I simply need to seal the ply effectively or make the replaceable strip from aluminium the same thickness. Thank you for sharing.

[@WoodsmithShowandmagazine]

Thanks - let us know how the modified build goes.

[@drobb4207]

These men are a class act!

[@WoodsmithShowandmagazine]

Thanks!

[@qubadmalik1]

Simple yet beautifully effective. Thank you for sharing.

[@WoodsmithShowandmagazine]

Glad you enjoyed it - Thanks for watching!

[@DavidGrassSr]

Great Job Guy's... Now, i need to go buy me some new lumber, and remove my old one and build one like this, Your swing arm moves the piece away from the back stop and removable center section puts this table up on the top shelf.nicely done... Nice video, See ya

[@WoodsmithShowandmagazine]

Thanks for the kind words! :)

[@johnroederer6410]

Great description and clear video work. Excellent step by step presentation and a great idea for a practical fence. Thank you very much. Neat idea for installing the threaded insert.

[@joesoika2628]

This is exactly what I'm looking for thanks so much. You guys do the best work and videos.

[@WoodsmithShowandmagazine]

Glad to help!

[@emiliobernardo5929]

I love your videos so accurate

[@johnkristoff2341]

Excellent instructional video. Thank you!

[@WoodsmithShowandmagazine]

Glad it was helpful!

[@lmallard3788]

Thanks for the very helpful methods. I went a step further than subscibing to your channel; I subscribed to your magazine.

[@davidmcclaytchy8820]

how do you stop the thru bolt on the underside of the the fence from turning along with the knob on top?

[@WoodsmithShowandmagazine]

The small "square" portion of the carriage bolt's shaft just below the head fits pretty nicely into the slot and keeps it from spinning.

[@lynsarver7899]

your explanations are awesome. From one teacher to another excellent job!!

[@6980869]

Yeah, that insert installation technique is simple, yet genius! Everything else is just as thought out and simple as well. I’m sure most all of us can appreciate this Jig for our shop drill press. Thank you for sharing and keep them coming! Aloha

[@mewmew32]

I don't get it - when i try to screw the insert down, the bolt just threads deeper into the nut and insert. does the nut need to be glued in place?

[@briansyzdek365]

Very nicely done! I'm looking forward to making one, as well as the Insert setting jig. Thanks!

[@WoodsmithShowandmagazine]

Great! Let us know how they go.

[@jim7smith]

the insert jig was superb

[@jimbo2629]

Superb video. May I suggest: no need to waste wood and double sided tape on backing when cutting the slot. Just go half way through from each side by flipping it over.

[@WoodsmithShowandmagazine]

Thanks for the tip. 👍

[@GNU_Linux_for_good]

30:41 Bryan said *square* - but what he really wanted to say is *perpendicular* . 32:28 And now - ladies & gentlemen - in the next two or three hours, *Bryan* is gonna make a stopping block, for repeatable cuts of highest precision. No - seriously guys: that was a nice video. Thumbs up.

[@OldDunollieman]

One of the best tutorial videos on KZbin. Thanks.

[@WoodsmithShowandmagazine]

Thanks for the kind words! We'll keep cranking out the videos. :)

[@SFarling]

Great video!

[@WoodsmithShowandmagazine]

Thanks!

[@johndiego3105]

Excellent video. Nice detail but kept a slower pace. Very easy for a sub par novice like me.

[@1Barrel2u]

This a a very handy table. I made it and have used for some time now. Do not let the simplicity of it fool you, it has become a permanent fixture in my shop. I would like to see some additional fixtures for the table saw and the router table. I always struggle getting picture frames built square and with a good fit. Maybe you have something that would help with that?

[@ahbushnell1]

Much better than the PBS version. There is too much repetitive talking in the PBS. Do it like this PBS.

[@ChicoMillion]

Cool project and that master-level tip at 30:20 is awesome!

[@WoodsmithShowandmagazine]

Thanks! Glad you found it helpful!

[@mikeharvey6061]

Very good video. Picked up a few tips I never though about in it. Thanks

[@WoodsmithShowandmagazine]

Great - Thanks for watching!

[@ronaldcompton4607]

Cool, thanks for the tip.

[@DaltonPhantom]

Going to finish mine today, and I love it already!

[@WoodsmithShowandmagazine]

Hope you enjoy it!

[@90westpoint]

@@WoodsmithShowandmagazine I was wondering how you bolted the sliding part of the adjustable fence? Really enjoyed the video and I will be replacing the top of my drill press table.

[@mikeygee2465]

Excellent video and I like the simplicity of the design. Thanks for producing this video.

[@WoodsmithShowandmagazine]

Thanks for watching! :)

[@jim7smith]

The whole almost 33 minutes was worth it all especially because of the great tip on installing threaded inserts. I have to remember that...

[@guitarchitectural]

Terrific project - can't wait to make one! I think the only thing I'll add is a slot in the fence so that I can integrate a stop block. Clamping stop blocks gets old fast... also, would love to know more about the setup blocks you keep around the shop! I'm always dangling things over corners to clamp them, can't believe i haven't taken the time to make standoffs/setup blocks yet. looks like yours have a few features that might be valuable to understand more about (like the little feet to butt work up against, the height you use, and any other unseen advantages they have!)

[@WoodsmithShowandmagazine]

This drill press table is a great place to start, but we have several other designs that have more features too. You can find those here: www.woodsmithplans.com/category/drill-press-tables/ You should be able to borrow a few ideas from these. My favorite is the "Woodworking Drill Press Table" I think that you have a great video idea regarding the setup blocks... I think we should shoot a video going in to that topic with a little more detail.

[@guitarchitectural]

@@WoodsmithShowandmagazine so will you guys be doing that setup block video any time soon? :)

[@steveszabo7305]

Well thought out drill press table. Nicely done video.Easy to follow. Thank You.

[@WoodsmithShowandmagazine]

Glad you liked it

[@MojoPup]

So many great tips in one video!

[@WoodsmithShowandmagazine]

Thanks!

[@longlee1839]

great teacher, I love to learn. please make more video

[@WoodsmithShowandmagazine]

Thanks! We will keep the videos coming.

[@gregorholmes1837]

I made it to 1:03 before falling sleep!, NEW RECORD !!!

[@mfsolutions]

Excellent idea replaceable centre piece... we used to paint our hardboard (sacrificial bench top) with polyurethane so when you are using metal cutting lubes you can clean up. you don't have to glue the hardboard pieces once they are coated with polyurethane countersunk screws will hold just fine!

[@Dave5843-d9m]

Hardboard has to be painted on both side to avoid it bowing. But it still bows. Best avoided IMO. For what it costs extra just use 1/4" plywood. If it's not glued down, oil both sides.

[@mfsolutions]

@@Dave5843-d9m In metalworking the dies are so heavy with sharp corners they would damage the plywood creating splinters. You need something that will protect the sharp edges (a metal bench won't work) but won't splinter. In the big die shops (GM, Ford, etc) where the dies can weigh 20 tons concrete would be cracked so they use end cuts of wood set in sand. For a drill press if you drill in to hardboard (painted) you get very little uplifting of the surface whereas plywood delaminates. I find countersunk screws hold properly prepared hardboard in place with no buckling even on a 4'x8' work bench after 30 years of oil and solvents.

[@dooleyfan]

Brilliant ideas having the sliding hardboard insert, and that jig for installing the threaded inserts. I am definitely building this for my drill press. Thank you for the great video!

[@iguesi]

Great video. Very practical. Q: Why not just use the middle insert to mark your lines?

[@pinoysiaki]

Cool project... nicely done. Thanks for the video sharing your skills to others like me.

[@williamhoward8319]

i purchased a incra 1000hd and it is just fantastic also bribed the boss into a i box now to get well to use them

[@fernandogarza1460]

Clean, concise and informative. Nice job. I wil be back!

[@WoodsmithShowandmagazine]

Thanks!

[@albertifergan6506]

Very professional video, thank you.

[@WoodsmithShowandmagazine]

Thanks for the kind words. :)

[@silasgroenning]

Great nut insert jig👍👍👍

[@wood4me]

Why did you use a square edge template board to fix the two sides. Haven't you cut the center bit will the angles when cutting the sides.?

[@thomasgibbons353]

Excellent!

[@WoodsmithShowandmagazine]

Glad you liked it!

[@firecrackerg60]

Thanks for the tips. You made the installation of the inserts a complete doddle. Just bought a plunge router as well. Table top for my drill press is now my next project. Well presented. Subscribed and liked. Again thankyou.

[@Dave5843-d9m]

You can use that plywood spacer and clamps to press down the hardboard even better than the J roller. Clamp down, move along, clamp, move, etc. When routing that curved slot a scrap clamped to the base board would stop the router cutting too far. Only takes a moment and just makes life that bit easier. If you don't have a dado cutter, you can cut the rebate by making many passes with the table saw blade. Just move the job across in smaller steps.

[@WoodsmithShowandmagazine]

Great tips! Thanks!

[@chrisengland5523]

The problem with this design is that the base of the fence is very wide, which results in a reduced space between the face of the fence and the drill bit. I recently designed and made something similar for a particular project and I needed to be able to drill a line of holes across the centre of my workpiece, for which I had to have a fence no wider than about 15 mm. To make this possible, I used a larger table and cut a slot in the centre of its back for the drill press support pillar to fit into. That way, I was able to extend the table back past the support pillar. I then used a two part base for the fence, with the centre bit "missing". That meant that at the pillar, the fence only needed the width of the front section since there was no base part there. This gave me an extra 50 mm (2") of workspace compared to the design in the video. Yes, such a design results in a weaker fence, but in this application, there are no great forces involved, so it's fine. However, if you're concerned about the rigidity of the fence, you can always go for a half-way house, and instead, just have a notch in the base. Another option that I haven't implemented is to put the fence along one side of the table instead of at the back. Then the space between the fence and the drill bit can be as large as you care to make the table, albeit at a cost of a reduced length of the possible line of holes. Another thing I did differently in my version was to join the face of the fence to the base part in such a way that the face was raised slightly above the table. This means that any wood shavings or dust that fall down between the workpiece and the fence can slide under the fence instead of stopping the workpiece from properly touching the fence. (This is standard practice on router and table saw fences.) Finally, one thing I did on mine was to drill a hole in area of the table behind the fence to drop the drill chuck into. That way, the chuck doesn't get lost.

[@EPaulIII]

Nice video! Well done. I noticed the better drill press in the corner. What is it? I also noticed the bench vise mounted on the left hand corner of the bench. I always mount mine on the right hand corner. Is there a reason for that position other than a left handed worker?

[@Richie5480]

Amazing idea.

[@robbrown6667]

Where did you get the long arm for raising and lowering the table?

[@lettersandlove]

Great video! I need to make one for my new drill press.

[@starnet36]

Is the bevel on the hardboards 45 degrees?

[@WoodsmithShowandmagazine]

The angle on hardboard insert is a 15 deg. bevel.

[@moisesrobles7884]

Very nice job I like your show like always smashing my like botton kaboooooom

[@gregwarner3753]

Rather than mess around with contact cement and the smelly, flammable, toxic solvent I would fasten the hardboard down with a pattern of countersunk brass wood screws. This will also allow the side panels to be replaced.

[@WoodsmithShowandmagazine]

That would absolutely work too. Great idea - thanks for the input!

[@gregghernandez2714]

You might want to consider Super 77 by 3M. I used to work at installing pool tables, and we would spray that stuff on the slate to attach the felt to the table. Never had a complaint about the smell. It's sticking strength is incredible too.

[@ericmiller3284]

Thank you so much for the very comprehensive video on this subject. Thank you, everyone, for all your hard work in putting this exceptional video together. I would like to know the purpose of slanting the fence if you would not mind with a reply.

[@twoweary]

Nice video. I did have to watch it at 1-1/2 times normal speed though.

[@WoodsmithShowandmagazine]

Okay... I have to admit I never realized that video speed was part of the KZbin settings. That is awesome! I am going to be able watch videos twice as fast now.

[@jimbo2629]

Don’t speed it up. You lose information on timescale. I like it as you have done here.

[@stephenrichie4646]

Out of the box, my vernier scale does not zero with the protractor. Is there an adjustment for this?

[@0x73V14]

Suggestion for slightly less nice but much easier sacrificial surface. Use hole saws to put a centered round hole in the main surface and cut out a set of matching circles by first holing a thicker board so you can remove the pilot bit then clamp that over the hardboard piece you want to make circles from, the tricky part will be finding two hole saws that are exactly one kerf different from each other's ID/OD, else cut the inside ones a bit too big then sand them down for a clean fit.

[@WoodsmithShowandmagazine]

We made a round replaceable insert using a wing cutter on one of the drill press tables we use in the magazine shop, seen here: www.woodsmithplans.com/plan/drill-press-table/ You can see it in action on this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/aZDGgpZ-gt9qi7c

[@lachlananthony6983]

Nicely done. Doesn’t seem too difficult.

[@dancahill9122]

2 Suggestions (I'm a newbie so bear with me) !😊 1. I would think covering 99% of all the boards with glue is a waste, even if it is cheap. 50% coverage (all four corners and the middle should be more than enough I would think). 2. This is to give some clearance for the sacrificial board in the middle. Use the actual beveled sacrificial board for the glue-up and wrap some waxed paper or parchment paper (baking paper) around one or both sides of the sacrificial middle, then glue up the other side. Presto ! You know have a few thousands extra clearance for the sacrificial board to slidea freely.

[@WoodsmithShowandmagazine]

It's worth a try :)

[@drstintbizz08]

Dan makes a great point. I would like to add two observations from the original articles thought about now going a cutting the insert to fit! With time and space being our issue, then so it’s going to make sense to already have the insert cut adding the wax-paper trick from Dan Cahill’s addition for saving our valuable time! Thank you for great service and support I will be creating my replacement top soon using all these great ideas!!

[@Dave5843-d9m]

I've done partial glue coverage and regretted it. Glue across the whole surface or the thinner layer will bow upwards when the weather changes. It's especially bad with water based adhesives as used on floors. Personally I would use 6mm plywood for the top layer. It's more stable and will move with the base board. Hardboard expands and contracts far more than plywood. Best avoided. 1/4" or 6mm MDF would do but plywood is probably no more money. Also avoid MDF for the base board. It is tough, solid and cheap, but it creeps and sags over time. Anyone who has an Ikea chest of drawers will know how the top sags.

[@johnmav8309]

Brilliant!!! I can not believe it! Really thank you!

[@WoodsmithShowandmagazine]

You’re welcome. Thanks for watching! :)