Upgrading CW1 to CW2 on your Stealthburner

[@jeremytodd1]

I plan to do this a few weeks after I have my 2.4 build finished so this video is very helpful!

[@MapleLeafMakers]

Don't be in a hurry! CW1 works great too. Enjoy it while it lasts haha.

[@eraldylli]

I'm putting mine together right now. Nice job. Liked the post-rocky music too.

[@MapleLeafMakers]

Glad you liked it! Let us know how the upgrade goes.

[@ljuboizsiska5448]

after I changed the LDO toolhead PCB and put a new PCB, like yours, I have problems with the chamber thermistor. Klipper reports that he is out of range. I had to deactivate the chamber thermistor function in printer.cfg. Any ideas?

[@MapleLeafMakers]

Most of the stealthburner PCBs don't have chamber thermistors on them anymore. The ldo sb PCB will likely have them when it releases

[@jidam0]

I love cw2, just miss ercf support

[@MapleLeafMakers]

We haven't built ERCF yet but.... at least one of us really wants to! What are your thoughts on it?

[@oaiwjebdlla]

hello, does it print tpu? what should I check if having troubles with tpu? thanks

[@MapleLeafMakers]

Absolutely it does! What kind of problems are you having? Make sure you have enough tension and turn your speeds way down to start at least!

[@oaiwjebdlla]

@@MapleLeafMakers currently I'm not even using CW2 but I read about problems with TPU. Thanks

[@madorax251]

can you share the slicer setting you used to print the Stealthburner?

[@MapleLeafMakers]

Not really, no. If you have a specific question I'd be happy to answer. The slicer settings are almost entirely from Ellis' profile. github.com/AndrewEllis93/Ellis-PIF-Profile Tuning was done using his print tuning guide - github.com/AndrewEllis93/Print-Tuning-Guide. The SB is printed in ABS-CF at 260' with a bed temp of 110'. Hope that helps!

[@filanfyretracker]

I will just merge this with the tap upgrade, as that needs CW2 anyway

[@P4P5]

@ 1:20 when you insert the shaft. Mine has about 1-2mm of play. So when i put the two halves together and shaft sits in the bearings it moves up and down. Does your do the same?

[@MapleLeafMakers]

It moves a little yes. If it moves too much it's not uncommon for people to put an extra shim to keep the movement down. All down to tolerances in the printed parts and shafts at that point I believe.

[@OregonDuck]

I just took apart my afterburner and put together the stealthburner and printed the cw2 parts. I got a small pancake stepper.. Do I also need to change the gears out? If so which ones would I need to get? I'm just using the old gears from the afterburner.

[@MapleLeafMakers]

The internal gears stay the same, just the motor swap and update the gear ratio in your printer.cfg! Good luck!

[@OregonDuck]

@@MapleLeafMakers oh thanks I looked at the data sheet after the post and see the stepper had an integrated 10tooth. I wasn’t sure if I took it off and swapped, but I can’t do that with integrated so it by default has to be 5:1! Thanks for answering!

[@mitsubishimakes]

@@OregonDuck Hi Joe!

[@OregonDuck]

@@mitsubishimakes heyo!

[@valdolandar534]

I bought one CNC mechanized pieces and another of pieces in NA CF I have a CW1 in aluminum and a CW2 in Nylon, What will be the best option in this case CW1 or CW2?

[@MapleLeafMakers]

I'd go with CW2. there's no need for aluminum on the extruder housing, it's just unnecessary weight.

[@valdolandar534]

@@MapleLeafMakers I thought in the hot irradiation of motor, then a way to not heat too much parts of plastic. To print at high temperatures in the camera.

[@narf444]

thanks for the video. are the power cables of the motor the same / compatible to the ones of the CW1 (NEMA 17) motor? I mean, do I just have to connect the wires in the same order and everything works fine? (i'm not planning on using the PCB but just the cables that i laid down to the mainboard)

[@MapleLeafMakers]

Motor wires have no standardized colors or ordering, so unfortunately, there's no way to know without testing. You can use a multimeter to find the coil pairs of the motor.

[@valdolandar534]

Apart the little motor, why is CW2 better than the CW1 ? The kits usually have the same gears parts for both.

[@MapleLeafMakers]

- The filament path has been straightened with CW2, to reduce friction and filament-loading difficulties. - it has much improved wire-management, with a lot more space to hide them - the added 'anti-squish thingamajig' solves some common problems printing flexible filaments - it matches the stealthburner much better

[@m.kanawati4385]

Do you mind sharing your notes and findings about the Clockwork? is CW2 better than CW1? and in what way?

[@MapleLeafMakers]

CW2 is lighter weight, and *should* perform better with flexible materials, but CW1 has a bit more torque. They're both great extruders though, we've had no real issues with either one.

[@m.kanawati4385]

@@MapleLeafMakers Thank you very much for your comment. I was just wondering if there's a reason for the upgrade. BTW the last video you released is awesome!

[@MapleLeafMakers]

For us, the reason was because we wanted to have a video about it :) There has been no noticeable performance difference in our day-to-day printing, but it sure looks nicer.

[@0Myale0]

SB with cw2 required nema14 with 10 teeth or the 8 teeth is ok?

[@MapleLeafMakers]

I've never tried the 8 tooth version, it will probably work but you'll need to set the gear ratio to 50:8

[@0Myale0]

@@MapleLeafMakers thanks Cause I can't find moons bema 14 with 10 teeth. It's difficult find nema 14 at all atm.

[@GuidoHendriks1990]

Have you considered the 2-piece Stealthburner PCB?

[@MapleLeafMakers]

We've actually got an upcoming video where we show it in action. Just waiting on the new wiring harness to finish it all off! Personal opinion: The 2-piece is WAAAY better.

[@GuidoHendriks1990]

@@MapleLeafMakers Cool. I just ordered both to be sure. Love your videos. 💪🏻

[@mitsubishimakes]

@@MapleLeafMakers Glad to hear you guys like the 2-piece, I just ordered one. When do you plan on releasing your video about it?

[@MapleLeafMakers]

@@mitsubishimakes It's next in the pipeline. Filming is done, it's being edited and will be released in the next few days!

[@craigw1649]

Did you have to modify the CW2 hood to close over the Hartk pcb?

[@MapleLeafMakers]

We printed a different part entirely for this from the stealthburner repo - github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-Stealthburner/blob/main/STLs/Clockwork2/cable_door_for_pcb.stl

[@SaifUlIslam-eh8kl]

Do we need new X carriage for CW2 Upgrade?

[@MapleLeafMakers]

Yes, the new one is similar but the extruder mounts from the front instead of the back.

[@SaifUlIslam-eh8kl]

@@MapleLeafMakers Thanks