Upgrading the LN3 3800 V6 ICM & Coil Packs & Why You Should do it

[@therealstvangr]

Tip: make sure you get the right backing plate! You will be able to get this base plate from any 93-95 Vin L " Tuned Port Injection " 3800. But you can also find this same baseplate on many 92-93 Grand Ams with the 3300 V6, Buick Century 89-93 3300 V6 (wagon included), Olds cutlass Ciera 89-93 with the 3300 V6 (wagon included), Buick Skylark 89-93 with the 3300V6, and Olds Achieva 92-93 with the 3300 V6. The base plate with the two mounting brackets on the right hand side will not work. The backing plate on the other Delco units (some series I included) will not work.

[@therealstvangr]

Just harvested a backing plate off a junked 1993 Century with the 3300 👍 but just as a note to my last comment, only the backing plate and coil packs from the 3300 are compatible with the 3800, not the ICM!

[@sparkplug1018]

When doing this upgrade you'll need to source the backing plate from a junkyard. The new design module does not have the 3 mounting studs on the back. The way it is assembled is the 3 coils go onto the module, and their mounting screws pass through the module into a backing plate, creating the assembled unit. And we just bolt it on in place of the Magnavox style unit. Since you got yours from a junkyard it came as an assembled unit. Just a small detail for others wanting to start with new parts instead of going used.

[@caayydenn]

No backing plate for the year I got that set from. The pre Obd 2 models still had studs on the bottom of them, even tho they had 3 individual coils, no backing plate. Series 2 and up need them 100%.

[@sparkplug1018]

@@caayydenn That's what I had thought too, even swore I'd seen them at some point. But GM Genuine part number D1977A interchanges from 1990 on the Buick Regal all the way up to 2009 on a few applications. It's kind of impressive they came up with a design that lasted almost 20 years like that. Anyway, just thought Id mention it in case people go to buy new parts and realize there's other things they need.

[@onlikt5201]

Yea, did the same thing three years ago on my '89 SSE. Mostly because I already had this parts in my garage (it comes with my previous Poncho, '92 SE ). Had a problems with ignition this year, so have completely new one now. Module itself isn't so cheap, about $150 + $60 shipping from USA, but coils pretty cheap, able to find all here, one made in Germany for $30 and two Chinese about $12 each.

[@patrickmcnamara5846]

Great idea I remember and my 1991 Park Avenue Heaven to change this when it was 90° out plus the engine temperature not fun

[@sparkplug1018]

Haven’t done this upgrade yet but yeah, I’ve changed one on the side of a highway, on a hot engine in the Florida sun. Fun time that was

[@stevenunya2182]

Thanks for posting. Now I need to find a video how to replace the Throttle Position Sensor on this exact engine...

[@caayydenn]

I have one kzbin.info/www/bejne/rJnLe4aVoLpjiqs

[@CT_Taylor]

you seem like a smart cookie, back in my day (like 7 years ago lol) my first car was 1990 olds 88. I learned a lot since I either fixed it or didnt have a car lol! Anyway, you seeem like you want to keep this car on the road. Whatcha got? looks like my olds underhood, so possibly a 88 or 98? Anywayyyy, you should replace your transmission modulator. I cant tell for certain but yours looks like it might be original. Eventually that diaphram breaks and your engine will ingest ATF and your shifts will be harsh, but you want to avoid that lol.

[@caayydenn]

Oh trust me I've learned a decent amount over the years. This is a 1990 Pontiac Bonneville. Transmission modulator was replaced a year ago to swap out original unit. Regular fluid and filter changes. Transmission seems to be holding up well for as much as I've driven it. Plan to keep it going forever. About to roll 350K.

[@samiam247]

Excellent video thanks for all the great info! I just fell into the 3.8 rabbit hole so I have a question, I'm researching the series 2 rn, if you replaced the garbage plastic parts along with the fuel regulator on the series 2 would it be a better choice or would you go with the series 1 / pre series 1? I'm more interested in reliability, easy to work on, cheap parts etc.

[@caayydenn]

That's a good question actually. I'd have to say series 2 because of the additional HP it has. That's IF the intake is metal, along with the fuel lines too. But that's not the case, so I prefer the pre-series (88-91) 3800 for longevity. The pre series 3800 is more labor friendly. The power steering pump is an example, and you don't need a puller to remove the harmonic balancer on a pre series. Doing the plugs on the back are a little easier to reach I think as well. Pre series parts are cheaper as well, and still readily available.

[@samiam247]

Thanks caayydenn that's the kind of answer I like hearing, you've been a great help, keep pushing out great content 👍@@caayydenn

[@johnrosseter2976]

What year is your new coil pack? My 1988 has 10 wires going in the front, the ones I’ve seen at the bone yard have more wires going in

[@caayydenn]

@@johnrosseter2976 Around 1993 ish. I believe it's 14 pins. Yours might only have 10 if your car has limited options.

[@dallasdelano8235]

Would this work for my 1989 Buick LeSabre limited? I think it’s the LN3. I’m new in the Buick world and 3.8s. I got mine with 76,000 miles and not sure what to upgrade for these things. It seems everything is original besides battery and alternator. I got it from an old lady over in Minot nd so I’m sure it’s not been beat on.

[@caayydenn]

Minot eh? I use to live there. Yes it will work for your engine. It's not an hp upgrade just a reliability upgrade.

[@dallasdelano8235]

@@caayydenn oh cool I’m from Berthold actually but I got the car in minot lol small world

[@caayydenn]

@dallasdelano8235 I use to live in Berthold too! From 10'-13'. My mom still currently lives there. Went to school there for a little while. Small world.

[@caayydenn]

@@dallasdelano8235 I was just there for graduation in May. My brother Michael graduated and has gone to school in Berthold pretty much his whole life.

[@dallasdelano8235]

@@caayydenn yeah I know Michael I graduated with him. I am also Nathan’s friend but I’ve never met you.

[@MikeJones-yk2jb]

Great Video! Very Informative!👍👍😎

[@gman1285]

Not a bolt on replacement for my 89 ln3. My bracket only has the three holes for the studs for the old Magnavox. Guess I get to drill and tap now seeing as how I’ve already bought everything else for the conversion.

[@caayydenn]

Did you buy a Series II ICM? That I know for sure doesn't have studs. This ignition set up is from 92-95. Should still have studs.

[@gman1285]

@@caayydenn I told the man behind the o’Reillys counter I had a 95 Buick which I thought was a series 1 and he pulled everything off of that year model. Was 95 a half year for the series 1?

[@caayydenn]

@@gman1285 I'm not certain. It might be.

[@gman1285]

@@caayydenn All the series 1 icm that I can find are the 6 through hole design for a threaded mounting bracket. I think I may just be falling victim to poor aftermarket support. Might just have to do a junkyard run. Lol Thanks for the help though

[@CT_Taylor]

@@gman1285 95 was a half year for the series 1, and the late series 1 had differences compared to the early series 1, so you may have something that works for series 2. in my opinion, a used factory ICM and coil set will be better than a new part store dice roll of quality.

[@edwarddinardo2830]

Nice upgrade! looking at a '90 LN3 in Olds98,,,I've had a few series II but never the older 3.8,,how does it compare?

[@caayydenn]

Its more reliable than a series 2, but doesnt have quite the hp a series 2 does. Main reason I say more reliable is because the LN3 has a solid metal one piece intake that doesn't have the leaking/warping problem like the series 2 upper intake thats made of plastic that is guaranteed to fail at some point. The fuel rail connections on the LN3 are solid metal and aren't plastic and will never fail like on the series 2. Plenty have gone up in flames that way. Maintenance is easier overall.

[@edwarddinardo2830]

@@caayydenn A new performance-oriented Touring Sedan model was introduced in 1987.[30] The Touring Sedan was based on the Ninety-Eight Regency and featured a long list of standard equipment including leather seats designed by Lear Siegler, anti-lock brakes, an onboard computer (1988-1990), FE3 sport suspension, self-closing trunk (1988-1990), burl walnut interior, console shifter, 15-inch (1987 and 1988) or 16-inch (1989 and 1990) alloy wheels, and more. Guy has one ('90) in Fl engine is very clean 115k ,is it worth 3k? Last yr of this model egine I think.

[@caayydenn]

@@edwarddinardo2830 91 was the last year of the LN3. If everything works and it is mechanically sound, and has good paint, its definitely worth $3K. Seeing as it only has 115K, I would ask if its ever had a timing chain put in it. Its at about that mileage where the tensioner might be pretty worn and should look into a timing kit relatively soon, just to be safe.

[@VictorBlack1995]

I have a 1990 Oldsmobile 98, and the bracket seems to only support the 3 stud fitment. Would drilling holes work?

[@caayydenn]

@Victor Black The module I used in the video is from a 92-94 model so it still has studs. You could definitely try drilling holes so the series 2 ICM will bolt down, I've just never seen it done myself.

[@person5684]

I might be getting a G body with a pre series 1 3800 coming from a series 3. any major differences to know apart from 15% less factory power (😭)?

[@caayydenn]

G body? You must mean H. You may have trouble with ignition modules failing and other electrical issues. I've seen quite a few that have had the cam magnet fall out of the cam sprocket and the SES light stays stuck on. Intake gaskets are not an issue on these like they are on the series 2. Not much to go wrong really, just keep fluids clean. Rust finally did this Bonneville in, sadly.

[@CharlieHus]

I have a 87 delt I’m gonna try this on

[@caayydenn]

Note that your 87 probably has the red dot 3.8 which is a bit different from the 3800. It may still work tho I've just never seen it myself.

[@andrewcerritelli]

Correct that was most likely the LG3 (has the "red dot" on top of the engine that says "3.8 liter"). The LN3 (first year they called it the "3800") came out in 1988.

[@mikenorton8593]

I was curious if you had the spark plug wires diagram to the magnavox

[@caayydenn]

Check out my video on replacing the magnavox ICM and you will see.

[@Slim1423]

Hi. I have a older 1991 Buick LeSabre Custom with 3800/ 231/V6 engine. Have some stalling, and interior heating issues. First replaced crank sensor, cleaned Maf sensor, replaced intake manifold and valvs cover gaskets. Heater is luke warm to cold now, and if i drive my car say 20 miles or so and turn car off, it may take 30 minutes to restart vehicle. I think i have fixed the intake manifold and valve cover issues. I think a thermostat will solve the heater issues. However, i found out today after getting my ignition control module (ICM) tested at Autozone, that the ICM is bad. I have the old Maganavox style icm. The coilpaks are good though, but the magnavox icm may run me $112 for a Delphi brand. My question is if i want to upgrade to the newer icm/ coilpak , what benefits can i expect? Will the newer 92 version icm/coil paks last longer than the old manavox icm? Will there be less stalling, hesitation, and excessive fuel burning? Please let me know your opinion. I really like how the LeSabre drives, and it has good power for a V6, but i can't deal with frequent stalling issues if i have to drive a long trip.

[@caayydenn]

The benefits are it is known to be a more reliable unit. You have 3 individual coils instead of a 6 pack so you don't need replace the whole pack when it fails, can be just one at a time. All ignition timing settings will be the same. So fuel economy should be what it's rated for if everything is working right. I usually get about 17 city and 27 in my Bonneville. For the heat issues, there's a few tests you can do. I imagine your LeSabre may not have came with a temp gauge. You can grab each heater hose. One should be hot, one should be significantly cooler (with blower on). I assume your coolant is full. Although a thermostat issue is not uncommon on these. Has to be an OEM buy. Others will not come with the gasket that wraps around the thermostat, which is 100% needed. However, it could be a blocked heater core. I recently replaced mine on my 1990 Regency and that fixed it. Flushing can help, but I prefer to replace with an all aluminum unit, as the OEM ones have plastic tanks that risk rupture (happened in my Bonneville). If yours has auto climate control, the unit could be malfunctioning and not opening your blend door. You'd have to take the glove box out and look to see if the blend door arm moves when you select a temp (auto temp control only). Manual temp controls should never have that issue unless one of the vacuum lines from the unit becomes disconnected or has a tear. One of my recent videos shows what that looks like. Overall these cars are pretty easy to diagnose. I wish you luck, I love answering questions and seeing that many of these cars are still out there.

[@Slim1423]

​@Caayydenn Thanks for your response. I am having trouble being able to respond in full, not sure if it is my phone or youtube problem. Will respond again when problem is corrected. .

[@Slim1423]

@Caayydenn Hi. I am trying to respond again, after having trouble responding before. My heater has a manual type lever to slide left or right, to select hot or cold air. I plan to get the factory GM thermostat for my car, to see if it will fix heating problems. Can get that thermostat w/ gasket for $10 or $11 online. As for flushing heater core, my neighbor says you can disconnect hoses to heater core, flush out antfreeze from core, pour in straight Bleach and let it sit a while in heater core. Afterwards, flush Bleach out of heater core and reconnect heater hoses. Neighbor says it has fixed heating problems for some people he knows. I have been looking online about upgrading the ignition system, but when i put my 91 LeSabre info in, i just see the old manavox style icm and 6 pack coilpak parts. I would prefer to get new parts online to do the ICM and (3) Coil pak upgrade. What info would i need to type in to find correct upgrade for ICM/(3) Coil paks for my car?

[@caayydenn]

@B. Lowery You just need to say it's for a 1992-1994 model. That's the only difference. If you type in 1991, it's always gonna offer you the original magnavox style. I pulled mine at a junkyard tho to save money. Did that for all 3 of my 3800s now.

[@Slim1423]

@Caayydenn Ok. Thank you very much. I am going to check into that. My main concern is to minimize engine stalling around gown and if i go on a long trip. From what i have read, the magnavox ignition system components just don't last long, so i want to avoid that.

[@StarsStripes-r8b]

Unfortunately, those single coils are always going out or cracking and taking the ICM with them - this is one of the worst systems I have even owned

[@mrmagniffy]

how about the icm will any year be transferable

[@caayydenn]

Only up to 1994 or 1995 because in later years the mounting bracket changed

[@BlackSnowTech]

You can use coils and icm from up to a 2008 lucerne (3800 series 3) if you wanted to. You just need the adapter bracket from (3800 engine) cars between 1992 and 1995.

[@aberobinson1]

This looks like it's your winter car

[@caayydenn]

Was my winter car. Rust is too bad now to daily it on salty roads. And trust me, it looked a lot worse when I first bought the car over 4 years ago.

[@johnnyhawk329]

Good info. Thanks for posting.

[@mrmagniffy]

yes for sale

[@caayydenn]

Well I'm located in South Dakota (Mt. Rushmore area). It's probably a long shot that you'd even be located even remotely close to me but I'd be interested if you were.

[@mrmagniffy]

can i use any coil and bracket from any model year my car is a 1991 Bonneville sse

[@caayydenn]

Any 3800 from 1988-1994 will have the same bracket and stud location for the ICM to bolt down to. Connector will be the same as well. Although they didn't go to the separate coil pack style until 1992. Very cool that you have an SSE I've always wanted one but they're non existent in northern states. Planning on selling? Lol

[@orinmangar2333]

Why do you have a cardboard in front of your radiator? Don't you know you will be restricting airflow to cool your engine? That is so dumb.

[@caayydenn]

No, it's not dumb actually, especially when you're missing the o ring for the thermostat because nobody can make it correctly, so coolant bypasses the thermostat still. The car was running too cool that way so, cardboard blocks off some air flow to let it get closer to operating temp while driving down the road.

[@orinmangar2333]

@@caayydenn My bad. Now I understand.

[@samiam247]

In Canada we do that all the time, try driving your car in -40°C temps and see how much heat you get when you don't cover the rad!@@orinmangar2333