USA Kilt v handstitched Scottish made kilt comparison

Two kilts made with the same cloth: 16 ounce heavyweight tweed from Marton Mills in Hunting Stewart Weathered tartan.
One kilt is from USA Kilts, their 5 Yard Tweed Kilt, with machine-sewn pleats, and without cutouts above the Fell. The insides of the pleats and the lining were loose inside.
The other kilt is a traditional handsewn kilt with hand-stitched pleats, cutouts above the Fell, and all the other features of a genuine traditional Scottish made kilt. It was made by Cathy Hope of Scotland.

[@jacquelinestextiles]

As someone who sews by hand, with no machine, the authentic Scottish kilt with the million pleats makes me want to cry. It's painful to look at. It's beautiful and the amount of work that goes into that makes it quite worth the price. Still sends shivers down my spine...

[@RichardDCook]

I think it's like most things: when it's broken down into steps it's less intimidating. There's a fantastic book I recommend, The Art Of Kiltmaking, that makes everything clear. I took a weeklong kiltmaking class from one of the authors, it was super enjoyable and I ended up with an entirely handsewn kilt I made myself.

[@jacquelinestextiles]

@@RichardDCook Very true. But I think I just have a thing about pleats and gathering. Probably my least favorite part of any garment construction process. Now, I just made a dress--a Tudor era kirtle--that went quite smoothly with cartridge pleats. That I didn't mind, but it was mostly because the fabric unit l I was working with was so thick and had so much body it more or less kept the pleat as I got everything situated and set up the running stitches. If I could find a way to replicate that process with knife and box pleats and gathering, it would make my life so much easier.

[@davidhensley76]

Kiltmakers count the threads of the sett to ensure the folds are precisely where they want them.

[@RichardDCook]

@@jacquelinestextiles The heavyweight 16 ounce UK-woven kilting cloth used in traditional men's kilts does hold its shape nicely. The pleats are easier when the waist and hips are close in measurement, so the pleats are fairly straight. The bigger the difference between the waist and hips the more each pleat has to be tapered, and kilts made for women can have strongly tapered pleats. The coolest thing about traditional kilts is that there's no "pattern" because each kilt is a unique coming together of waist and hips measurements and the tartan involved.

[@rbresett2]

@RichardDCook Can you recommend a Scottish kiltmaker? I'm visiting Scotland next year and would like to have one made.

[@CJones-kilted]

For those looking for kiltmaker Cathy Hope, look up Braw Kilts

[@theologyman]

I think Rocky at USAKilts would agree with you that they don't try to compete with a hand-stitch Scottish made kilt. Each person has their own audience and I think for those in the US who want a kilt but do not live in Scotland or can't afford the time and expense, I think USAKilts makes a kilt more available to the public.

[@RichardDCook]

As far as the expense goes, as I point out in the video the two kilts I discuss cost about the same. As far as the time goes, I should have kept track of how long I waited for each kilt. In some circumstances, say an upcoming wedding that wasn't planned long enough in advance, the wait time would be very important. I've never needed a kilt in a rush so it's not much of a factor for me.

[@pat1589]

Yes you explain the finance well. No one should ever be in s panic for a kilt. Scottish all day.

[@neilbridger9581]

A very interesting comparison, I have one of Cathy Hope's kilts, they are amazingly comfortable to wear, look incredible and provide an excellent swish when you walk.

[@paulfitzpatrick6786]

I have two family clan tartan kilts made by USA Kilts. One for my paternal family branch and one for the wife's paternal branch. And one for my father's paternal branch that was hand stitched by a well-known Canadian kilt maker that can do traditional box pleats. And one made hand sewn kilt made by a well-known US kilt historian and kilt maker in the southern US. All three are exceptionally well made with wool woven in Scottish mills. All four are the equal in quality and the workmanship of the kilt that my Scottish late father-in-law insisted had to be made in Scotland. He paid much more than I paid for any of the four kilts I had made by three kilt makers on this side of "the pond". Scotland still is king of the tartan mills, but they do not have a corner on the quality of making the kilt.

[@RichardDCook]

Agreed. I don't know of anyone who claims that where a kiltmaker lives has an effect on the quality of their work. The location of the maker can have an effect on the price due to the fluctuations of the relative value of the UK Pound and Canadian Dollar against the US Dollar. Last I checked it was still cost-effective to buy from the UK and Canada due to the relatively strong US Dollar. I will say that in my opinion machine-stitched pleats are not the equal in quality and workmanship to hand-stitched pleats.

[@calebw9372]

Awesome video! Ive only ever worn USA Kilts and ive oft wondered what the real difference between them and traditional scotts kilts are

[@4U5513alldaWAY]

Very informative, thank you!

[@patrickodonnell4109]

Excellent video. Very informative. Enjoyed it very much. Thank you.

[@hopedaddy907]

Nicely done.

[@jkn107]

My USA Kilt made in 2018 is 8 yards, top stitched. The 16oz wool is pretty weighty, but it drapes well and has nice swing when I walk. The pleats are scalloped around the waist and the lining is basted in. The kilt fits very comfortably in the small of my back.

[@RichardDCook]

I thought their top-of-the-line 8 yard kilt with cut out pleats had pleats that were stitched on the reverse, then flipped. I guess I don't know all the various USA Kilts models. Your pleats are top-stitched, so there's a bead going down each pleat?

[@jkn107]

@@RichardDCook the top stitching is not noticeable unless you look hard for it. I ordered top stitching because I thought the creases on the pleats would be crisper.

[@rossmclennan6056]

Very educational, thanks. I’m off to check my kilt now.

[@micmoniker6449]

Good on ya Richard… thanks for yer take on traditional vs USA kilts. Cheers!

[@kevinhendryx665]

That was very informative, thanks for this post! I'd been wondering about getting a gentleman's kilt from USA Kilts but after seeing this, I'm not so sure it would be the best move. All my kilts have come from Scotland (some are army surplus) except for some made by J. Higgins in Kansas City and a couple of reenactor-level military kilts that came from India, I think.

[@RichardDCook]

Yes I once got one of those What Price Glory military re-enactor kilts, it was terrible. The fabric was very strange, flimsy and waxy. Our band gets their kilts from Higgins, they're very nice heavy wool traditional kilts.

[@jameshoy3530]

Not all USA Kilts are top stitched. The premiere 8 yard has hidden stitches. I do not know if they cut the backside of pleats to reduce bulk. This was very informative and helpful.

[@RichardDCook]

Yes their premiere kilts have the pleats that are machine-stitched then flipped over so you don't see any stitches. You have to get really close to see they're not hand-stitched. I do believe some of the big Scottish firms like St Kilda/Gaelic Themes are doing their pipe band kilts that way.

[@sherieffiong853]

I watch the USA kilts channel. Rocky, the owner of the company, has said that the pleats are scalloped on the inside to reduce weight and to reduce bulk around the waist. I don’t remember which episodes but, there are some about making their kilts and that issue is discussed.

[@RichardDCook]

Right, it depends on which kilts. The 5-yard kilt I purchased had machine-sewn top-stitched pleats and didn't have the pleats cut out, in other words the internal construction is like "casual" kilts. Their Premiere kilt has machine-sewn pleats that are done on the back, then flipped so that no stitching shows, and does have the pleats cut out, in other words mostly made like traditional kilts except machine-sewn.

[@terrykeever9422]

​​@@sherieffiong853Just the 8 yard USA kilts are scalloped. Not sure if they would do so on a 5 yard if requested.

[@terrykeever9422]

​@@RichardDCookUSA Kilts' casual kilts are polyviscous and have velcro instead of straps. They also have a semi traditional kilt that is polyviscous with straps.

[@mer8795]

Well, I just watched a USAKilts video about making their kilts. They do have 3 different levels of kilts from casual to premium . They did say they cut out the fish [in the fell], but not on every one - I dont remember the actual number. It was a video with Ms Tewksbury, co-author of art of kiltmaking (title?). She makes hand sewn ones. I think a hand made kiltmaker here in US , would charge more; and now the US $ is declining everywhere, the UK kilt might be more expensive. One would need to ask lots of questions about construction, pricing, and shipping before making decision. It is definitely a time consuming process, even when using machines. I would never make one, as I dont have the patience.

[@RichardDCook]

Right, their Premium has cut-out pleats which are machine-stitched on the reverse, then turned over. Some big UK firms have started doing their kilts that way too. I prefer either that, or handstitched. About the Pound, it's still low, $1.20, and has been declining since July. Then again I take the longer view, it's averaged around $1.50 over my 49 years of kiltwearing. (Yes it dropped to around $1 in 1985 and very low in 2022.)

[@pat1589]

I live in New Zealand. I have a Black Watch Pipe Band issue kilt, and my own Hunting Menzies modern kilt. Both kilts from Scotland.

[@blacksmith67]

You have helped me greatly. I have, in my younger days, worn only hand sewn traditional kilts, two of them made specifically for me (the others being supplied by pipe bands). I was debating on getting a USA Kilts made kilt in 8 yards, knowing that it would be top stitched. But now that I know the pleats are not scalloped and the lining isn’t stitched, let alone a missing internal reinforcement meant to take the strain off of the pleat stitching, I have a far better understanding of what one gets. The price of delivery from the UK is well worth the extra attention and workmanship. Great video!

[@RichardDCook]

Thanks! We're in agreement on all points.

[@Ikamono101]

From what I understand is that their 8yd traditional kilts are scalloped.

[@BeautifuLakesStreamsBiologists]

Thank you! These differences are not apparent when looking at catalogs.

[@RichardDCook]

Yes there's no substitute for examining things in-hand. Especially with clothing, you have to actually wear things to know how they fit and feel.

[@IosuamacaMhadaidh]

As an American of Scottish descent I appreciate those who want kilts handmade in Scotland, but fellow Americans, can we also find a way to support USA Kilts, even if only watching their KZbin channel and liking their videos? We can do both, no need to be pretentious, especially since that trait is not very Scottish.

[@RichardDCook]

I just prefer the fit, feel, and look of hand-stitched kilts wherever they are made. I have a couple hand-stitched Scottish-made kilts and a couple hand-stitched US-made kilts, and it seems to me that all these kilts are of equal craftsmanship. About the USA Kilts KZbin videos, I watched one and I would have preferred if they had done some research. When I have more time I'm going to watch more of those videos and add clarification and correction when needed.

[@georgemcpherson7449]

I love wearing my kilts as a scot who lives in scotland i just wish it was more common as every day wear.so happy it's getting more popular and not just weddings and new year . I wore it in germany on a pub crawl a couple of years ago and never felt so proud to be scottish. 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿🥃🇺🇲

[@RichardDCook]

That's cool! As an American, kilts are something I wear when playing the bagpipes, attending Highland Games, or for occasions like weddings where other men will be in suits. (I haven't owned a suit in many years.)

[@JR-bj3uf]

I was born in Texas, play the pipes and I often wear the kilt. I had occasion to visit Scotland and wore my personal Lamont kilt all day in Edinburgh. I got as much attention from the locals as I did from the tourists. It was a very fun day but do not wear the kilt of you don't like conversation.

[@uncletungsten5253]

Traditional kilt just looks pure tailored quality, doesn’t it. Can’t compensate on original Scottish sewing method for kilts.

[@jackalnerf6230]

This is interesting. I thought that USAK scallops out the fell, maybe that’s only on their premier kilts?

[@RichardDCook]

That's what I was given to understand. But they don't on the type of kilt I got, the 5 yard kilt.

[@EvergreenA3_KCHS]

So given the two are of a similar price, and you had to adjust the Kilts USA kilt, would you ever buy a Kilts USA kilt again?

[@RichardDCook]

If I'm buying a traditional kilt I'm going to get a hand-stitched kilt from a traditional kiltmaker of known reputation.

[@TL....]

Pride Of Our Land

[@MarcelGomesPan]

I have a bit of a problem with the term: ”Traditional Scottish Kilt”. If being hand sewn is the criteria, that would mean most Scottish people do not and the British military where not wearing them ( i could be wrong but i would be surprised if all WWI kilts used in the field where handmade. Modern dress uniform may be another thing ). Also, when does ”tradition” start ( or end for that matter )? I could argue a hand sewn kilt is untraditional simply by being tailored in the first place. The original fèileadh beag was not. And even when they became tailored they would have been 4-5 yard box pleated. Is a Victorian kilt traditional? Or a WWI regimental kilt? The term Scottish could mean two things: 1: Made in Scotland 2: Scottish tradition The same way a well made sushi would be called Japanese cuisine even if the chef was born and bred in Boston. The first kilts i ever wore in the early 90’s where made for British regiments. One was box pleated, the other knife pleated, 21 oz, so much heavier than most kilts, both made and bought in Scotland. I would argue they where both traditional and Scottish ( i still have one of them ). If someone asked me to describe a Scottish kilt i would say a wrap around, pleated, double apron garment. I would describe contemporary tradition as: with three straps, scalloped pleating at waist, usually but not always from worsted wool and with a tartan. Usually but not always 13 or 16 oz. Usually but not always 5 or 8 yards. Also: The ”Made in” designation on garments and most other products is fuzzy at best. I bet the wool in your kilts is from New Zealand even though it is woven in Scotland ( at least the worsted wool ones ). After i have bought my next two kilts ( made in Scotland ) i will order one from U.S.A Kilts ( i prefer 8 yards, 16 oz ). I think they scallop / cut out on their 8 yard kilts. I would probably buy a hand sewn kilt too just to have one ( as long as it doesn’t break the bank ). All three of your kilts are beautiful!

[@RichardDCook]

I suppose it depends on what we mean by the word "traditional". I use the term in this way, to mean "a current thing which goes back to an unknown origin and has come to us through an unbroken process of evolution." (Yes there's a story about the origin of the sewn-up kilt involving an Englishman, which seems to lack much evidence, and is open to challenge.) Now, if machine-made kilts were the only sort still being made one could make the claim that the machine-made kilt is the most recently-evolved form of the traditional kilt. But since hand-sewn traditional kilts are still widely made and bought and worn they've not been out-evolved yet.

[@MarcelGomesPan]

@@RichardDCook I agree with you on that. I also hope hand made kilts will continue to to be a thing. I guess i’m just scared that those on a budget or beginners get a feeling their kilts are not ”real” despite being tailored nicely . Probably a remnant from some experiences i had in dancing etc where gatekeeping made me lose interest in something i loved. I guess i just don’t want to be ”that guy” myself ( and i have been known to wear a polyviscose kilt to buy groceries ). Perhaps i’m just overly cautious. I hope , and think, hand made and bespoke kilts will always be a thing just like it is for suits. I checked out your kilt makers homepage. Now i want one of her kilts too. 🙂

[@pat1589]

Long winded.

[@RichardDCook]

If you mean my explanation of what I mean by "traditional" I don't think it could have been unequivocally defined in a shorter way. I'm open to suggestions!

[@RichardDCook]

Of course all the kilts worn in the field (and elsewhere) in the British army were handmade. Actually in the army the tradition was to issue soldiers the fabric and the kilts would be made up by the Regimental Master Tailor and soldiers under his direction. There's an 1890s photos of a number of soldiers sitting on the ground sewing their kilts. I've examined dozens of WWI kilts from both the British and Canadian armies and they had handstitched pleats. The only military kilt I've seen that didn't have handstitched pleats was a c1858-1861 79th New York State Militia kilt. The story is that these were machine sewn in a New York sweatshop.

[@user-xh8iv6xj8r]

Could you provide the contact info for your Scottish kilt maker. I have a USA Kilts 8 yard top of the range kilt and I’m not crazy about how it was made. There is a hem that’s not sewn, but that stitch witch glue tape stuff was used at the bottom hem at my knees, and it is terribly bulky at the small of my back. I was in Scotland and asked a couple of kiltmakers in Inverness and Edinburgh about buying a kilt and they all wanted me to come back for a final fitting. Well, if I could have stayed in Scotland the length of time the kiltmakers needed, I would have. Sadly, I couldn’t.

[@RichardDCook]

She's Cathy Hope, in Scotland, she's on Facebook.

[@byoh100]

What tartan was used in your kilt?

[@RichardDCook]

The tartan is called Hunting Stewart. It's generally seen in "modern colours", with a dark green background, dark blue and black stripes, and red and yellow lines. But my kilts are in "weathered colours" in which green becomes brown and blue becomes grey. So "Hunting Stewart Weathered" my kilts would be called. The fabric is 16 ounce tweed from Marton Mills in the UK.

[@byoh100]

@@RichardDCook thank you, but I was actually referring to the kilt that you are wearing in the video. Please excuse my original incomplete question.

[@RichardDCook]

Oh sorry! The kilt I'm wearing is 13 ounce House of Edgar Muted Range "Drummond of Perth". The kilt was made in 2007 by Wanda McSwain in North Carolina. It's confusing if you look up this tartan on the House of Edgar site because their Drummond of Perth (in both 13oz and 16oz) is labelled "Modern" colours even though they're woven in their "Muted" palette. A bit of history, in the 18th century this tartan was called "Perth" or "Perthshire" and is considered a District Tartan. Then it came to be called "Drummond, or Perth". The modern title "Drummond of Perth" is incorrect.

[@byoh100]

@@RichardDCook thanks Richard. It’s a very nice tartan. I have seen a Drummond of Perth years ago at Burnettes & Struth in Ontario, but it was mostly red with a white stripe. The kilt I saw was pleated to the white stripe, so it made a great kilt. I used to see a lot of your posts on the Dunsire page, but since it’s gone I haven’t seen much from you. Cheers.