Using a Light Meter in Newcastle City Centre

[@camerasam1]

Great photos. Perfect light meter. Very enjoyable video. Thanks

[@theoldunsshot1005]

Many thanks!

[@ldbass62]

Nice video! Great results with that light meter.

[@theoldunsshot1005]

Thanks. It worked well!

[@petenobes4865]

Just came across your channel.Great stuff snd love your cat

[@theoldunsshot1005]

Thanks. I love doing it and the cats love to get in on the act. Cheers, Keith

[@alcozome]

Greetings from Florida - Nice channel - Just subscribed - Take care!

[@theoldunsshot1005]

Thanks alcozome! I hope I can keep videos you like. Keith

[@jimgraves4197]

You can't beat a selenium light meter for price and reliability, the caveat is make sure it has a case with it. They are the ones that have probably been looked after and stored correctly. I was given a Gossen Trisix in a case and it is working beautifully.

[@theoldunsshot1005]

Hi Jim. I have to say this meter seems to be working great and it is pleasant to use. Cheers, Keith

[@AndrewWaltonPhotography]

Nice shots Keith, it's been a while since I did a day's street photography in Newcastle and never on film. I have a Stitz selenium light meter here, I've got to say it was given to me many years ago and I've never had to use it. I might need to if I ever put film into that old SEM I have. My mam had an old Zenit before she bought the Fujica stx, not sure if it had the Helios 55mm lens though, I understand they're very sought after to pop onto digital camera because of their swirly bokeh at wide apertures.

[@theoldunsshot1005]

Thanks Andrew. We struggle to get out much these days but with free bus travel a trip to Newcastle can be fun. The Helios lenses have some interesting and often pleasing characteristics, but they do bleed light on high contrast edges. Swirly bokeh can be attractive as long as it doesn't detract from the subject, but there are a lot of people out there who just shoot for the effect. I like the extra bit of separation that comes from that extra bit of focal length over other standard lenses. I was surprised how much I enjoyed shooting the Zenit compared to earlier trips with it. Cheers, Keith

[@iainmc9859]

Replacement batteries, Just use ordinary button batteries and a wee gasket washer (they sell in packs from any hardware store), if its a little too thick you can rub it down on emery paper. I know the original batteries were 1.35 volts and many button cells are 1.5 volts but the difference to the light meter is negligible and button cells dissipate from full power pretty quickly. The gasket washer is just to stop the battery moving about in the battery compartment. I've got several cameras fitted with them. My pocket ain't being fleeced by Wein cells. However, speaking of power I've always been a lover of selenium cells. As long as the cell isn't constantly sat around in the sun they're life can be measured in generations. The 44M is a great lens, underrated, okay less bokeh than the 44-2 but unless you shoot wide open all the time then its superior.

[@theoldunsshot1005]

Thanks Iain! I read somewhere that the meter on the TTL isn't reliant on voltage for accurate reading. When I first got the camera I bought a Lithium battery that fitted, but stupidly didn't store the camera with the lens cap on and I think that is why the battery died after just a couple of films shot. I do like Helios lenses and have the 44-2, 44M and 44M4. I'm happy with the Leningrad meter and the Zenit is fully mechanical so I may not bother with batteries for the TTL now. Cheers, Keith.

[@jimgraves4197]

Using 1.5 volt button cells does the job but it depends on the camera. Zenit tend to meter correctly or to within half a stop courtesy of robust Sovet era electrical components. My Pentax Spotmatic SP500 was over half a stop over exposed but now reads accurately after a CLA where it was given the adjustment to take a 1.5 volt battery. My SP500 is the camera I came back to film with and sentiment made me spend money on it. I do not regret it as it works beautifully.

[@iainmc9859]

@@jimgraves4197 Hi Jim, yeah Pentax seem to be a bit iffy with the extra power, until the button cell settles in. Something to do with the Pentax circuit but nearly every other make is fine. If in doubt don't use brand new button cells, Swop them over from something else. Cheaper and longer lasting than the Wein equivalent

[@andrewflower9533]

Have you ever made shots on Ilford pan 100 and Ilford pan 400? If yes, what can you say about these films comparing with fp4 and hp5 plus?

[@theoldunsshot1005]

Thanks for your comments Andrew. I haven't used Silberra or the Pan films yet as they aren't offered by my usual sellers (Analogue Wonderland, Wex and Parallax), but if I see them available I will give them a try. I have seen shots taken with those Ilford Pan films and they do look quite good. Cheers, Keith

[@andrewflower9533]

@@theoldunsshot1005 Thank You for the answer

[@andrewflower9533]

Hello, Keith. Could you tell me which fixer did you use?

[@theoldunsshot1005]

Hi Andrew. I use Ilford Rapid Fixer. It is the only one I have ever used, so can't say how it compares with others. Cheers, Keith

[@andrewflower9533]

@@theoldunsshot1005 Thanks, I am going to buy this fixer and I want to know is it possible to use fixer (1+4 dilution) more than one time?

[@theoldunsshot1005]

@@andrewflower9533 I use mine about 4 times before mixing fresh. I usually fix for 5 minutes on all films.

[@andrewflower9533]

Next time use Silberra films instead Fomapan in Zenith camera. Russian films with soviet camera and optics!!! What could be better?!

[@theoldunsshot1005]

I'm sorry it took so long for me to reply (I thought I had but was mistaken). Silberra? Now there's a thought...... Cheers! Keith

[@andrewflower9533]

@@theoldunsshot1005 Hi, Keith, thank You for the answer.