Using Motorcycle Threadlocker Tips And How-To | MC Garage

Loose hardware is a pain, and lost hardware can and will end your ride prematurely. When motorcycle vibration works against tightening torque, you need a bottle of the blue or red stuff. Today on MC Garage we talk about threadlocker.
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My first two-stroke motorcycle, a 1993 Kawasaki KX250, would loosen hardware in short order. And when I moved up the KX500, if not for my diligent use of threadlocker, it would rattle itself to pieces. But not all threadlock is the same; there are different strengths and applications. So let’s get into it.
Threaklocker basically uses an anaerobic adhesive to fill the imperfections between interfacing thread surfaces to create added friction. It also fills the gaps between those threads making a completely unified assembly. Anaerobic means without air, so threadlock will not begin to harden until the nut or bolt treated with the locker is installed and is in the presence of metal ions. Once installed the threadlocker begins to cure in minutes and reaches full strength in 24 hours.
Threadlockers are available in low, medium, and high-strength formulations and are usually color coded according to their strength. Most of us are familiar with bottles of the blue and red stuff. Blue is medium strength that is best used on hardware that will need to be removed with hand tools down the line. It’s also best for small-diameter bolts. Red is high strength and is for assemblies that you don’t plan on taking apart, and when you do, it requires heat to break the bonds. There is also purple, which is below blue on the strength scale, that works great on very small hardware and materials like brass. Green is a wicking compound, meaning it will find its way into the gaps from the outside of the hardware via capillary action. It also requires heat to break the bond for easier removal.
Using red or green threadlocker in applications where thread strength is low, like with steel, stainless steel, or titanium hardware inside aluminum threads, can cause the threads to be stripped or pulled out without heat being applied. Most of the time blue is the right formulation on any external motorcycle parts. I tend to use blue on most things, and reserve red for things like footpeg brackets, exhaust hardware, and internal engine components.
So how to apply the stuff? Easy, just a couple of drops on the (clean) threads of the bolt you are installing. If it’s a through bolt-one that gets a nut or does not go into a closed (blind) hole-just put the locker at the location where the treads will be making contact when tightened. For blind holes, add locker to the threads and in the bottom of the hole. If it’s just on the bolt, air can push the threadlocker out of the hole as the bolt or screw is tightened, resulting in not enough locker for a proper bond.
A quick word on torque values when using threadlocker: Threadlocker does act as a lubricant before it cures, so it is recommended to reduce torque by 20 percent if you are torquing to values in your manual.
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Videography/edit: Bert Beltran
Photography: Bert Beltran
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[@BurlyNerdGetsTheWorm]

Again, I love these videos about mundane things we take for granted but there's always something to learn. Great choice.

[@Mike-fn4ls]

So clear and helpful thanks mate

[@FREE_PUREBLOOD333]

Great 'to the point' video again from you guys. Really enjoy all the MC Garage vids. So many other KZbinrs spend more time on BS and playing to the camera with their effects and acting crap, cannot stand watching them. Your stuff is always factual, to the point and no nonsense. Hats off to you guys.

[@ecrusch]

Excellent advice, as always. Thanks brother.

[@roythearcher]

When it comes to reading your manual for torque settings, also take note of whether you actually need to apply a threadlocking compound at all. If it recommends it, use it. where it doesn't, however, Don't use it unless its clear it really needs it! Dont apply it to your wheel nuts, chain adjusters Battery terminals or on anything that uses an alternative like a locking tab washer or split (Cotter) pin.

[@HalfdeadRider]

Yep, I'd also slightly disagree with the description of red loctite, you can break it without heat and it's to be used on parts that you really don't want to come lose as it could cause real issues, blue just as a preventative but nothing drastic would happen if somehow they come lose.

[@aluisious]

No, please put loctite on battery terminals, that would be really funny.

[@HalfdeadRider]

@@aluisious well it wouldn't hurt, it's kind of rare, but they do come lose.

[@roythearcher]

@@HalfdeadRider NO, Realy? DONT!!! it becomes an insulator when cured and you really need that on a battery terminal don't you?

[@HalfdeadRider]

@@roythearcher I don't, never have, never will, but it would cause no issues as it would be on the nut, not the actual terminals.

[@Addy29plus5]

Excellent vid

[@rubyroth]

Helpful as always

[@GareyCooperdude]

An old guy learned something about thread locker vs. Torque values!

[@chinwakebhai]

Great info. Thank you.

[@submissions72]

Good video! Thank you!

[@gcostanza2115]

That's interesting what you say about reducing torque values by 20% when using thread locker. You said the thread locker acts as a lubricant initially. I'd be interested to know how the lubricant factor of the thread locker reduces the torque specs by 20%. Good video, thanks for posting.

[@2929xlxl]

Thanks man 👍👊

[@ggff5580]

Thank you!

[@brashachilles9725]

Cool. Never knew that.

[@mechanic3d]

Thread lockers are very essential at vibrating parts assembly

[@borealisgelidus4427]

On a Harley for instance! 😁

[@LunchBXcrue]

Oh wow never knew about the torque value thing!

[@0YouCanCallMeAl0]

Before you reduce the torque value make sure the manual does not explicitly specify these are wet values, i.e. with lubricant/thread locker already taken into account. Otherwise you're in for a pretty spectacular ride.

[@borealisgelidus4427]

Harley's best friend! 😁

[@ajohnson1066]

and KTM

[@CollinMac96]

Youre gonna get harley owners pissed lol

[@lvcsslacker]

@@CollinMac96 it's fine. They won't be able to catch up

[@DylanClemons]

Hahaha yessss!

[@RevKnightHunter]

red is for the oil drain bolt and oil filter threads

[@giuliobuccini208]

Don't forget: use lemon-yellow threadlocker only on black bikes.

[@nicoaalderink5924]

Thanks for this video. I have one question though: What if a manufacturer of accessories advises to use threadlocker and to torquing bolts down to spec. Should you then just torq everything down to specs of the bike manufacturer, the accessories manufacturer or what the bike manufacturer advises minus 20%? Thanks for your time.

[@MustMoto]

If the manufacturer gives torque values WITH locker then follow those instructions.

[@AmineAmine-oy8mv]

⁦👍🏻⁩⁦👍🏻⁩⁦👍🏻⁩

[@Brunoxtr]

You can apply one tidy drop of Red. Enough and won´t need heat to remove.

[@rodrigohidalgo6307]

If wanted to put handle bar raisers on my cruiser. Would I use blue or red? I really don’t want them coming loose but also may want to change handle bars in the future

[@ericy1005]

There are several different 'red' thread lockers. Some for strength, some for heat. Be good to know which ones are best for different parts of the bike. For instance, should exhaust hardware be loctite 272? Or is 271 OK?

[@sincity7005]

What about using RTV instead? Thanks

[@PureVenomthe1]

You mention you use red for internal components. What are some examples of red threadlocker being used? (for instance do you use it on clutch basket nuts transmision?) Also which parts are more prone to comming loose inside the engine?

[@BBoyXy]

it really depends. The manual states where and which type of loctite you should use, as with lubricants on certain parts like bearings when assembling

[@franyetso4899]

Studs for cylinders, heads or transmission mounts would be good places for red. Full length thru studs rarely need to come out. If they do, you are likely past the point of serviceability and will be doing heli-coil work.

[@WeExplore2]

What about orange thread locker? Holding strength of red with removability of blue?

[@aluisious]

Just do it like Honda and apply epoxy to every fastener out of sight on bikes made in Thailand.

[@TheCuriousOrbs]

I have a Thai built Honda. Been wrenching on it for over a year and haven't come across "epoxy" on a single fastener. Maybe you bought a second-handy from a previous owner that used it?

[@brayangomez1784]

What part of your motorcycle should you apply thread lock? My manual doesnt specify.

[@turbocharged9589]

Just about everything tbh 🤷‍♂️

[@NickVetter]

Glad I watched this but would have felt better if I had this earlier

[@TheCuriousOrbs]

You just rebuilt your engine with red thread locker, didn't you!

[@prithvirajdj]

My earphone keeps coming out of the phone. I need to use the Blue thread locker. 🔵

[@TheCuriousOrbs]

why not? it worked when my earbud kept falling out of my ear.

[@Max.527]

I put that blue stuff on everything 🤣

[@Warner1981]

I did the same with the Red 🙈🤯

[@the6r471]

Bro can u explain this,sorry I don't understand bcoz my english knowledge is bad

[@lefterisbampaidis5446]

When you mention color, do you refer to the tube or the liquid? Wouldn't it make more sense if they had the same color? (container to match liquid)

[@aluisious]

How do you know what the color of the liquid is when it's in the container?

[@lefterisbampaidis5446]

@@aluisious my point exactly

[@imgzrona09uc72]

LocTite brand threadlocker is the most prominent brand in the USA. Their packaging colors became intrinsically identified with the product. Blue for medium strength, red for high strength. This identification became so strong that the packaging color became part of their "trade dress" in the USA. If Permatex put their medium strength thread locker in a blue package they would be sued for infringement of LocTite's trade dress, and they would lose.

[@BBoyXy]

After an afternoon riding in the woods, I find my 2t bike dropping the pipe on my way home at night. Let's just say zipties saved the day, or at least my ears on the way home

[@romzmartz]

How do you remove it?? When you want to replace some things

[@franyetso4899]

use blue. it is intended for "service fasteners". stuff you take apart routinely like air filters

[@lucimoto2922]

On the oil drain plug it s ok?

[@TheCuriousOrbs]

Just wrench it to published torque rating for you manufacturer.

[@fatbongripz4207]

not advised. you are gonna want a safety wire

[@allonmor4078]

Not clear. A lot of manuals include a torque spec and threadlocker, especially KTM. Do you mean 20% below spec when threadlocker isn't recommended in the manual?

[@MustMoto]

Yes. If it's a dry value and locker is applied, reduce by 20%

[@HK-wd4yj]

I guess Motonosity should have watched this...

[@vilhelmgustafsson2669]

😂

[@strictlyformyninja]

What did he do?

[@vilhelmgustafsson2669]

@@strictlyformyninja watch the latest vid

[@AndrewBoundy]

20% reduction in TQ! More than I thought. Hmmm.

[@TheCuriousOrbs]

Seems legit... "The Loctite people recommend reducing applied torque by 20 percent from dry values when using their liquid thread-locking compounds on threaded fasteners. You can find tables of wet-vs.-dry fastener torques in places like Thomas J. Glover's "The Pocket Ref" (inexpensive, used, on Amazon), but judging from the values given, a fair estimate would be a 25 percent reduction in torque when tightening an oiled or anti-seize-treated fastener."

[@marccheckpoint5353]

Treadlocker can badly damage plastic parts.

[@fatbongripz4207]

is torquing axle nuts necessary? or will loctite be enough

[@המכונהשבאופנוע]

rubbish