V15 Climber Shares Secrets To Climbing On Slopers // Emil Abrahamsson

Get 20% Off Any Frictitous Climbing Hangboard with a Doorway Mount
(No code, drill or setup needed) ➡️ l.linklyhq.com...
Listen to the full audio episode and our 36+ other full-length episodes:
Spotify ➡️ open.spotify.c...
Apple ➡️ podcasts.apple...
Emil is an incredibly strong boulderer with a particular talent for compression and sloper problems, along with harnessing dynamic movement. He has sent loads of the world’s toughest blocks, flashing up to V12 and redpointing up to V15, which he accomplished on the Dave Graham test piece, Story of Two Worlds. He documented that process beautifully on his KZbin Channel - which has over 100k subscribers and is growing fast. He has a real talent for bringing us viewers into his process, riding the rollercoaster of emotions from beginning to end. He also creates fantastic training content, most famous of which is probably the No Hang Protocol video he put out a couple years ago and went viral. Emil really exemplifies the intangible traits that make elite climbers who they are - an incredible work ethic, unstoppable passion, and seemingly unlimited psych to dig deeper and try harder than even seems possible.
Support The Podcast By Joining Our Patreon
• Exclusive Pro Clinics With Previous Guests
• Ad-Free & Early Access To Every Episode
• Ability To Ask Future Guests Questions • Struggle Travel Mug
• Free Stickers

[@thestruggleclimbingshow]

Get 20% Off Any Frictitous Climbing Hangboard with a Doorway Mount (No code, drill or setup needed) ➡️ l.linklyhq.com/l/1kluw

[@Nyitemare]

Huge fan of Emil, such a great climber. Love these short clips out of the podcast too. Really helpful

[@thestruggleclimbingshow]

I appreciate the kind words! If you have a few seconds, it would mean a lot if you could rate/review the show over on Apple, or Spotify. It’s really helpful in growing the podcast. And if you want to go a step further, check out the Patreon page where I’ve got loads of exclusive content, including more than 20 hours of interviews and training tips from the likes of Chris Sharma, Alex Honnold, Ravioli, Biceps, Alex Johnson, and Tyler Nelson 🙏🏼🤘. Thanks again for the support! Hope your training and climbing are going great.

[@nathanrice7352]

I just started using Antihydral and it's amazing what it does to the durability of my skin. I'm pretty sweaty and before, I could get MAYBE 6 attempts on real rock before I had to back down on intensity to save skin. I applied Antihydral twice last week. Just got a solid 2+ hour session and probably 30 attempts and my skin still feels good. No more worn than a normal Gym session.

[@thestruggleclimbingshow]

How frequently can you use it? I’ve never tried it but it sounds promising.

[@nathanrice7352]

@@thestruggleclimbingshow I'm new to it as well, but so far it seems pretty individualized. Rule of thumb for a starting point is once every 10 days, and again 2 days before a known skin-heavy day. The more often you do it, the glassier and more prone to split your skin gets. Everyone has to experiment a bit with how long and how often to apply it to get the desired results without the negatives. Also keep in mind that if you're using it, you have to be very mindful to keep your skin hydrated. It doesn't do that on it's own anymore, and it doesn't grow when it isn't hydrated. I've been moisturizing at least once a day since I started using it.

[@thestruggleclimbingshow]

Thanks for the tips 🙌

[@Ptitviaud1337]

Replying to the original comment. I climbed for 10 years on tough coastal granite, and i've used antihydral for about 5 or 6 years. What antihydral does to your skin is drying and thickening it. Meaning, you get an extra tough and dry layer of skin. However, it doesn't work on an already damaged skin, or, to put it otherway, it will only work on the most outter layer of your skin. So if your fingertips are all pink, wait for them to heal before. Antihydral works with delay : the effects of two days of consecutive antihydral (best done during your sleep, you wash it off in the morning) will kick in maybe 4 or 5 days later : dont overdo it and put antihydral like 5 days in a row thinking that nothing is happening, you'll end up with way too much skin and even splits. If you've had soft skin most of your climbing life, you will also discover that tough and dry skin is not always preferable. It works great on hard rock, like big grain granite or fresh and spiky limestone. However, it works poorly on gym holds or fine sandstone, like Font. It also tends to perform better at higher temperature : when it's really cold, this type of skin tends to under perform. This layer of extra skin is helpful, but will worn out quicker than natural tough skin. If you spend 3 hours in the gym doing boulders, and you had this extra layer, it'll be gone at the end of the session (but you will probably still have okay skin, which is the point !) Lastly, if you already have a thick skin, it's probably best not to use it, since it favorize so much splits.

[@jefferypinley4336]

There is a company called rhino skin based out of Oregon which uses the same chemical as antihydral, but has a variety of concentrations. This allows a better tailored approach to skin conditioning

[@marleychingus]

Loving the interviews, thanks bro. More please!

[@thestruggleclimbingshow]

Thanks for the support! Two new videos a week (and full interviews on the pod). Would be grateful for a good rating / review on Apple or Spotify if you like it. Hope your climbing is going great!

[@cwehden]

I notice heavier climbers have more of a challenge maintaining their skin, I'm sure this plays a role

[@gurito4374]

Emil did gain a lot of weight recently, so it might be that worn down skin has more moisture

[@jarfrobinksss]

V15's the new V12 I guess

[@mrdawe769]

is that Soldier Boy?? 😂