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In 2005 - after a decade doing Bitácora for RCTV, a Venezuelan free-to-air channel - we finally managed to travel. to the only border of Venezuela that we were missing. The triple point. The Cocuy stone.That hidden place in the Amazon jungle where Venezuela, Colombia and Brazil meet.
An impossible trip in these times because the regime prohibits entry to any that is not one of yours and/or obtain their permissions. But that's not the problem right now. The truth is that we sailed for 13 days through the most emblematic rivers of the Venezuelan Amazon in a little Brazilian boat with its cabins, bathrooms, terrace, kitchen and two towed fliers to get closer to the shore, explore the jungle or get off in remote and unfrequented indigenous communities.This is how we arrived at a Yanomami community next to the Pasimoni River; This group had decided to approach the banks of the river to receive help from the government in the form of bags of food, Well, in its natural habitat high and deep in the jungle, none of that comes. But going down has its flats and one is the mosquitoes.
When we arrived I only saw people from the boat shaking their arms in an attitude of effusive welcome. Well it turns out that it was all a negotiation so that they agreed to be visited. Lucho - our guide - had lived with other Yanomami communities, So he managed to reach an understanding with the captain, we agreed to leave them food and we were finally able to take the flying ones and tour the community. You won't believe it. The shaking of arms was to scare away the mosquitoes. A real scourge.
That also made them wear clothes and cover their churuatas from the ceiling to the floor. Upon entering their houses - an immense churuata for everyone - there are fires in every corner that indicate the presence of a family. There they cook, they warm themselves when it's cold and they light up at night. Around each fire there are hanging hammocks and many children. There we learned that men have the right to have several women. That as soon as a woman gets old - for them it is at 30 - they call her a patañoma, then They are looking for a mocomoco who is a little girl who will be given to them by her parents at 12 years old so that she can leave getting used to. The husband agrees not to touch her until she has her first menstruation. That makes young people stay without women and go to neighboring communities to look for a wife. The biggest fights among the Yanomami are over women. They fall literally beaten. Here I was able to meet some Yanomami women who invited me to do their makeup so that I would look as pretty as them. Then We danced and were happy. I loved getting to know the community and I was outraged by the sexist custom. But hey... they are traditions.
I hope one day the Yanomami rebel.
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