Qidi Tech Q1 Pro Full Teardown

[@billkaroly]

The current version of the Q1 has guides in the back for the flex plate so it's pretty simple to get it lined up and in place.

[@adocsgo1736]

any chance for a teardown of the new version? :)

[@grasstreefarmer]

If the PTC heater bothers you too much you can always just replace it with an insulated version. They are just a bit more expensive. If you can see ceramic pieces like in this video it is a live fin version. If instead there are 1 or more thick aluminium bar spacer looking things spaced between the fins then its an insulated version. They come in the same standard sizes like 60mm. They are usually higher quality and sometimes have a built in thermal cutoff switch which is useful just in case the fan dies. Even though the PTC elements are self regulating, you might not want them to get to their uncooled temperature and sit there. I have used both types in my Vorons and either are really fine, the insulated ones are just better. PS: Measuring a PTC heater to work out its "wattage" doesn't really work well because their resistance changes as they heat up, which is what makes them self regulating. They are normally sold and speced by their temperature and the "wattage" figure is just approx how much heat you get with the fan supplied. Change the fan speed and the wattage output changes.

[@juancorica4335]

Can you change the input voltage of the chamber heater?

[@somewhatideal]

Thanks for the teardown! I'm now thinking if I can replace the side panels to make it sleeker haha

[@billkaroly]

Is it possible to port a vanilla clipper to the SKIPR motherboard? And bypass the front screen all together?

[@victorreppeto7050]

Are those all nema 17 motors? The xy steppers seem large in the video.

[@cthulpiss]

What's the distance between the heater's fan and the side panel inside? Is it enough to allow it to "breathe" efficiently?

[@oleurgast730]

Brass bushings have much less tolerance. As a CoreXY always is staticly overcontrained, you need the higher tolerance on longer distances. So you need the lower tollerances ballbeerings have on the two y- axis and on z, while the bushings work well on x, as the two x-axis are very near together, so different thermal expansion of materials still are within the limits of the tolerances brass bushings provide. And yes: I tryed. Not on the Q1pro but the x-Max 3 on z. Due to rattling bearings I tryed brass bushings there and the movement of z became very incosistent. Changed it to Mitsumi ballbearings - and now it works nice. Brass bushings are graphite lubricated (self lubricating) while ball bearings need grease. You should never mix grease and graphite. So for lubricating you need different types of lubricants.

[@GreenPlasticWaterCan]

Did you get a decleration of confirmity (CE/UKCA) with the printer? I'd like to see that if possible.

[@andreasherzberger812]

This stream was very informative. I also watched the tear down of the creality K1C. What would you say is the difference between the Q1 and the K1C in terms of the quality of the used parts?

[@KaloyanDobrev]

If you watched both, please tell us your opinion.

[@shivaargula4735]

Thank you for sharing this. Currently troubleshooting an error with the filament sensor, and I needed some kind of idea of how it functioned. If you have any close up shots of it or an explanation of how it works, that would be helpful. I am hesitant to pull anything apart until after trying my luck with qidi support, but worst case scenario I'll be pulling this thing apart to test the sensor.

[@AK.Navy.Veteran]

Is the motherboard the same as the Smart3 minus the Ethernet Chip and connector?

[@adamklosterman8960]

you are absolutely wrong about the heater. you better get used to it, ac chamber heaters are the future.

[@victorreppeto7050]

Is that maker baseboard a skipper 1.0 model?

[@KaloyanDobrev]

Another question that you will not answer - What are the dimentions of the nozzle?

[@victorreppeto7050]

I am guessing there was nothing on the back of the board or you would have shown it to us.

[@victorreppeto7050]

Thank you so much for this video. We're taking delivery of this model in just a few days.

[@victorreppeto7050]

New firmware became available on the 20th of March.

[@53Aries]

Alternative usb option, just plug a usb hub into the top usb port.

[@FTairgunsTX]

The heater is safe no way to touch it directly because of the heater grid. any toaster is more "dangerous" In the US, all garages have GFCI plugs, plus you can convert any regular plug to GFCI and never get shocked in case of a ftupid mistake. In Europe, almost all homes have "GFCI" brakers. Anyway, it is completely safe, safer than any other electric space heater 🤷 This is a complete overreaction

[@МИСТЕРКРИПЕР-ж2ы]

Разобрать то легко, а вот собрать... У меня после разборки остаётся куча ненужных деталей.

[@mrMicroSur]

Bravo!

[@FrodeBergetonNilsen]

Thanks for the teardown. I am late to the party, but this far, this teardown has aged well. The controller for the heater has blown and caught fire for some users. Looking at the general design, I guess this is not where I want to go. This seems to go nowhere, and lack vision. That is best seen, doing a teardown like this. Thanks for vid.

[@billkaroly]

@@FrodeBergetonNilsen I don't think the heater on the Q1 has been a problem. However the PLUS4 units in North America on the other hand have had problems and QIDI sends out replacement SSR boards.

[@FrodeBergetonNilsen]

@@billkaroly Not sure where you are going with this, but you are wrong. The thing is that the heater used, is chosen by the designer to save costs. But the heater require a beefy SSR. Given the environment, like a heated chamber, a lot of cost driven care is needed to make things run within spec. They completely and utterly failed at staying anywhere near within spec, and still are ways, ways, out of bounds. They should rather innovate, like using a thicker bed, as the chamber heater, and let a fan blow on its back to circulate the heat. Or they could use a regular thermistor and heatsink. Also, for Gods sake, they could just use a 235*235 heated bed blowing a fan across it, and you have a quiet superb low cost heater, using all standard components. All with an insane safety record, I might add. And no deadly potential, as in Voltage. The heater IS the problem. Taking it further, lack of vision and innovative skills is the real root cause. This is a mod, not real design.

[@victorreppeto7050]

Definitely too many comments. I wasn't trying to be rude.

[@KaloyanDobrev]

Why don't you reply to a single comment here?

[@МИСТЕРКРИПЕР-ж2ы]

Он его ещё не собрал

[@photo_n_art]

You shouldn't be touching anything inside the printer when it's powered on, basic safety and I think you are aware of that 🤷‍♂️ You can touch heating elements inside a stove when it is on... It is dangerous, right ?!... Common sense sometimes just makes sense... I guess 🤷‍♂️

[@tracyevans7886]

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