Ventilation, Leaker or Blockage? Three Quick Tests

My RV Works, Inc., RV Technician, Darren Koepp, answers a viewer question from a recent livestream about RV Refrigerators and why their unit won't get cold. Follow along as Darren briefly explains three possibilities and simple troubleshooting tests.
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Topic: RV Refrigerator Cooling Issues
System: RV Refrigerators & Freezers
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Related Videos: RV Refrigerator Cooling Performance Issues - Installing A Baffle To Shed Heat From The Cooling Unit.
• RV Refrigerator Coolin...
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Related Playlist:
RV Refrigerator Repairs
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Film Date: 3/1/2024
Location: Sequim, WA
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[@briscoelcamino7850]

Great video. I'm having issues with my Norcold 663 in a 1995 Callista. This was very helpful!

[@rossgroupcrosscountry7266]

Love this guy!

[@diverm2371]

Excellent video Thanks

[@hectorquintanilla5520]

Hello again from South Texas Darren great video. Do you suggest if cooling coils are rusted out to remove rust and repaint them?

[@MyRVWorks]

Not really, it doesn't really matter what the outside looks like. The inside is probably still working just fine. So no, I would not worry about the rust on the outside of the cooling unit.

[@hillbillyrv]

Hi Darren. I hope you are doing well. Been crazy here.

[@MyRVWorks]

We've had a nice comfortable pace throughout the winter. Keeping folks in the hopper. Not as busy as previous years though...

[@luvgodess2]

I just bought a 98 Sportsmaster, the freezer works perfect but the fridge portion doesn't cool. Any tips? I'm new to the RV life and learning as I go.

[@steveramirez1654]

👍👍

[@10101tomtom]

I have a Norcold 811. That stopped working when we went away for a weekend and I turn off the power supply. When we came back it was not cooling the refrigerator or freezer. I detach the thermostat and nothing changed. Any ideas?

[@jonathanblack7774]

Could I have a blockage if it works on propane but not on electric?

[@MyRVWorks]

Not likely, a blockage is a blockage in the cooling unit regardless of the Heat source. If it's not working on electric, you can follow the 120v AC trail. Verify you have AC power feeding the control board, then through the glass fuse on the control board. When the refrigerator is calling for the boiler to turn on with AC, you should have 120 volts on the two pins that the heating element connects to. You will need to disconnect the heating element to get a voltage reading on those two pins. Then you can check the Ohm's value of the heating element (at ambient temperature) and compare your value to the service manual. On our website under the resources tab we have many service manuals for refrigerators.

[@davidsimon4387]

Get a Residential Refrigerator that's Self Defrosting and more Reliable especially if your Full time....:) It's Cheaper and more Efficient.... Propane appliances these days are old Technology with the introduction of Stand alone Power Stations.:) RV Appliances don't last and are extremely Expensive to replace every 5 yrs maybe.... 👀