Pinch Bolt Removal Easier way for Audi B8 A4, A5, S4, S5, & Q5 DIY Front Control Arm Replacement

[@j.s.ajaheimssuperadventure9200]

Best video I have seen removing that stubborn bolt omg thsnks much really appreciate it 👍

[@marcodoz]

Best video I have seen....how to remove a bolt in 20 minutes

[@davidlang3625]

Good job, it must have been so satisfying when the bolt finally went loose.

[@rogerharman8516]

Great idea for stuck pinch bolt. Nice safety footwear by the way😂

[@veshapidze]

Thanks! Safety - shmafety. Guess it helps with confidence when you have 22 ton jack stands like this under your car amzn.to/3PR4PKP

[@jazzmann4528]

Great video really helps and easy way to remove, thank you. 👍

[@lowerbuncombecoachworks3384]

Wow, what simple and brlliant solution! Thanks! Now I just have to repair the end of the bolt where I've been hammering on it!! haha!

[@TheShakir98]

Same lol, I haven’t seen a bolt as stubborn as this

[@1gabrielpopescu]

Hi! First, congrats for the video, it's very helpful. Now the question is where we can find a new screw like that, do you have any oen number for it? Thanks

[@veshapidze]

Mine came with the control arm replacement kit but they are also sold separately. My specific VIN needed this part: parts.audiusa.com/p/Audi__/Steering-Knuckle-Bolt-Upper/48760877/N10491802.html You should also be able to get one at a local dealer for a few bucks. If all else fails, and its more pricy but they are also sold at Amazon amzn.to/3VR2Pa5 I would carefully check compatibility and part numbers for your model before purchasing.

[@1gabrielpopescu]

@@veshapidze Thanks!

[@leticiagarcia6763]

Hey man!!! you save my life!!😃😃 great idea very Inteligent process...thank you

[@deanfurst1618]

Awesome video! I struggled in the past with the air hammer method. This is so much better! I’ll be doing this in a couple weeks🤙🏼

[@markchandler001]

Great video with lots of great information that gives understanding on what one is dealing with etc!

[@veshapidze]

Thank you! It can be helpful yes. Unfortunately, I had to fight with the passenger side first, to figure all that out. Fortunately, the driver's side went MUCH more smoothly.

[@markchandler001]

@@veshapidze You said it’s important To keep the spacers flush. Would it have been easier to have added more nuts rather than using grips?

[@veshapidze]

@@markchandler001 In general, maybe, if you have enough of those. My channel locks are very flat so they worked just fine. In-fact, they have more surface area so they were sitting pretty flat. I just had to reverse the second one and insert it from the opposite side as they have that big round bump in the form of a metal grommet interfering and also wanted to slide out from the friction of the rotating nut. Plus, with the pliers, you don't have to back out the nut all the way to insert another nut/spacer, you just slide one in from the side. It really makes little difference but that's what I had handy and it worked out. The smaller vice grip at the end is not as flat as the channels but the lips of it were still flat so it worked out well to hold the bolt and prevent it from turning when unscrewing - once the bolt got a little looser. I was really being extra careful so that the pressure was distributed evenly on the nut and therefore the bolt threads. In hindsight, a little sloppiness wouldn't have made much difference as it came out pretty easily but why risk it? It may have been much tighter so I wanted to ensure it didn't fail. This procedure would have taken 5-10 mins tops if I didn't hold the camera in one hand and didn't bs too much :), but was thinking of editing later. Ultimately decided to publish a full vid as I tried to provide some extra tips, some of which I guess are common sense but don't hurt to have.

[@markchandler001]

@@veshapidze It’s was great, well informed!

[@veshapidze]

@@markchandler001 Glad it helped. I had a few more roadblocks doing this job, especially with lower ball joints, as well as getting out and inserting a triple square on the lower control arm. Let me know if you encounter an issue further down. Good luck!

[@yannn5]

Merci ! astuce géniale pour les bras de suspension d'une A4 B6 !

[@paulortiz6851]

Fantastic idea, great job 👏👍👏

[@Brayco864]

Innovative….. I like your style ….. most people who just hit it with a punch

[@veshapidze]

Thanks. Though not entirely my idea. I saw a British guy using a kit a special spacer kit he bought that I couldn't find in the US. They were basically progressively long tubes. You would cut off the bolt and then add spacers to drive through the other end. This accomplishes the exact same thing without the special one-use tool and is just as effective if you keep it flat at 90 degrees.

[@Brayco864]

@@veshapidze I have to change all my 2008 A6 C6 upper control arms shortly and will need to remove this pinch bolt on both sides. Hence my interest in your great video. Wish me luck :-)

[@veshapidze]

@@Brayco864 I wish you good luck if it helps. :). If your control arms have 100K+ miles on it, I would replace both upper and lower control arms with OEM quality parts. Do them once and will happily do another 100K for you and you'll have a cushy ride. You don't want to go back and redo that work. Just be mindful that lower ball joints are also a PITA to deal with as well as the hex bolt that goes above the steering rod. I have short videos of how I dealt with them but haven't had a chance to edit and post them.

[@Brayco864]

I’ve seen videos that show removing the spring and shock completely from the car with the upper control arms still attached ….. that way you can replace the arms and torque up the bolts much easier. My car has 127,000 so I think I did ok? The reason I’m attempting this is that garages don’t want to do the work given the cars age. Although the car is in fact in excellent condition. They think the pinch bolt will be a real pain …. They’re right it will

[@veshapidze]

Same, dealer will always do it but at an outrageous price. I am too scared to remove the whole shock. Plus if I mess up at least I have an option for a flatbed :). At 125k I would proactively replace a few things that can go bad on these cars and be happy. A BIG item that I can think of that can kill your car is the timing chain tensioner. Unless you got it done under a recall (which replaces it with a new type of tensioner), you are probably at the high end of its life before it goes bang. Relatively low cost way to diagnose that is to get the Ross Tech VCDS (every Audi/VW diyer must have) cable and it can pull numbers for you to see how far the tensioner is stretched. Anything below 3-6 is considered ok, above that yellow zone. 8+ is waiting for the imminent failures. This is numbers I remember top of my head so check to make sure. I also proactively replaced fuel pressure sensor ($43), oil separator ($136), upper/lower control arms and all ball joints (~$720 +some special tools), timing cover gasket and seal (~$25) was leaking a bit, rotors and pads. A few years ago I had to rebuild both shafts in the front as the boots got torn - check those for any grease. Car runs like new now.

[@Baka1991-8]

Thank you for the video! 😊

[@thenels0n7]

I like this!!

[@dave1096]

Nice option for those terrible bolts

[@sebrura]

Excellent method.

[@uhjk91]

Great job!

[@muffinlordghoti1]

make sure you use a narrow enough "washer" so that you have a bunch of threads you're cranking the nut onto otherwise you'll strip the starter threads and then you're up a creek(trust me I did this, I guess I don't know my own strength.......)

[@DraconianRang]

And what about the bolt at the bottom? The 3 point support arm..

[@danieltoussaint289]

Do you have a shop in new York, i need to fix the same problem on my a4 b8

[@veshapidze]

Sorry bud, I’m just a diy-er. My shop is my garage ;)

[@danieltoussaint289]

@@veshapidze how much would you charge to fix mine ?

[@scottvacher73]

Will this work just snapping the head off because mine done budge at all.

[@veshapidze]

Hard to tell. I would be more comfortable to get it at least turning. That's why I used longer wrenches to get good leverage and at the same time feel the amount of real pressure I was applying. Warming up a couple of times helped loosen the corrosion - so maybe go through a few cycles of that. I would not heat up the metal to the extreme though, just warm it up enough for the corrosion to loosen. See later on I the vide, as the bolt comes out, what sort of corrosion I was dealing with.

[@dave1096]

Grind the head off maybe. Did you end up getting yours out?

[@redliaga]

great job

[@redliaga]

I can make one for you/ very easy to extract this bolt

[@Chris-b5c]

Make one for me!! 🙏

[@redliaga]

i have the perfect tool for this

[@OFFLlNER]

Not work on my car

[@dannytall8699]

There is a special tool for removing this bolt.

[@veshapidze]

What is it called, name model, etc? I don’t think there is anything official from VAG. Could be just an aftermarket tool that basically accomplishes the same

[@dannytall8699]

I saw two mechanics using it, the video was in German, unfortunately my German is not up to scratch.@@veshapidze

[@CUTproductionsLtd]

@@dannytall8699 kzbin.info/www/bejne/hZamaWiLa7F_jrs

[@beernutsonline]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/iqO3oXV4hd2Fb80 It replaces the original bolt with a fine pitch bolt, effectively doubling the pull force. Not tried it myself.

[@CoachJonGosman]

Short video ... 22 minutes

[@veshapidze]

Guess you now wasted a grand total of 23 minutes putting up that super-useful comment ;)

[@stephenjohn841]

Lol that easy bolt that you started off the video disregarding is the main problem issue 🤦🏿‍♂️

[@veshapidze]

Huh? I started the video at that spot because that's when I decided to make a video to share my success. I also covered in length, how I got it started, and for me, the bolt moved exactly as I described. This is an advanced repair and if you expect to see a tutorial on how to use a propane torch or basic wrenches, you shouldn't be attempting this repair anyway. You are free to lol, or move on and make your own better and improved video ;)