Rust Removal - Comparison Review - rust dissolver - evaporust - vinegar - metal rescue - coke

[@Will4fun]

This saves me a lot of money because I was going to try to experiment and find a good rust remover. Thank you!

[@OtherGuy01]

I have found that Dawn Platinum, there purple one, works great at removing rust. Mix about twice what you would use for washing dishes and let soak for a day or two. Light rubbing or a power washer will remove the remaining rust. Super inexpensive rust remover.

[@wavinakma]

Excellent presentation - no nonsense. Clear, concise, I learned a lot - thank you!!

[@abonnieforclyde2802]

Thanks for taking the time to make this great video. There's no way I can make through all these comments, so apologies if it's been mentioned already... To those asking how to do a larger project that you can't soak: i use a 50% vinegar to 50% original Dawn dish soap solution. The soap makes it cling but doesn't obstruct the vinegar from doing it's job, and makes it extra easy for cleaning up after. I mix, heat to above room temp/ under boil in the microwave, and add some table salt to really knock it into overdrive (roughly 1 cup per 1 gallon mixed solution). Ps works pretty well on soap scuzz in the shower too.

[@petermortimer3521]

This is great info. I googled Dawn dish soap and found that it is Fairy Liquid here in the UK. What rust did you use your mixture on and what results?

[@joanjohnson3572]

Jennifer Wells p

[@abonnieforclyde2802]

@@petermortimer3521 sorry for this extremely late reply! I have used this on all kinds of things, but my favorite application is for restoring bicycles! It's very gentle and neutral for the most part so it doesn't destroy sensitive parts. I can't attest to using it painted applications for prolonged periods though- I'm still too scared to even try that but have been meaning to find a scrap part and demo it.

[@grok40]

SO, 50% DAWN AND 50% VINEGAR. NO WATER. IS THAT CORRECT?

[@abonnieforclyde2802]

@@grok40 Yes'r, it 'tis. :) Just make sure to heat the vinegar (to almost a boil if you want) BEFORE you add the soap. Otherwise... Bubbles, bubbles everywhere.

[@patjones5169]

Thank you Brian...my husband and I were wondering what to use on my Dad's tools that I inherited. They are dear to me and hope to hand them down to my children. Thanks again...you're a doll for sharing your time.

[@melenedezssss]

I purchased the "Metal Rescue" several years ago to remove rust from the inside of a completely rusted interior of a motorcycle gas tank. With a mirror, I saw not one speck of any metal that wasn't rusted. I doubled the instruction time. at first, I filled the tank completely to get full coverage. After emptying & rinsing, I still saw rust, so, contrary to the instructions, I left the fluid in for 2 weeks. Unlike surface metal, I had no way of scrubbing the tank interior. The selling points for me was rust removal & (claimed) completely non-toxic. After 2 weeks & numerous water baths, the inside was like brand new. There was no metal damage at all & perfectly clean.

[@888jackflash]

I also do resto work on bikes, and am currently looking for a way to clean out light/moderate rust from an old Honda right now. My worry is about the fresh paint that I laid on it

[@chrismason5179]

Seeing how the badly rusted railroad spike is derusted by various cleaners is good information, but you also need to know how gently various metals are treated including those that are cad plated and painted. That is one of the great things about Evaporust, in that plated fasteners and parts are just stripped of their rust and not their plating, and that is usually a very important thing. I recently did a soak test comparing it to vinegar, and found that though vinegar will also remove rust, it can be very harsh and will remove cad plating on fasteners and can even remove base metal, as can different acids. On one occasion vinegar caused severe pitting in a vintage wood chisel that I Was restoring, when soaked over night, so gentle and very effective Evaporust would have been a much better choice since it never attacks the base metal, as witnessed over about 40 uses of this product when restoring bicycles and tools. Evaporust is also totally reuseable and I have found it to be equally effective reusing the same solution as often as desired, making it much more cost effective than if it was a one use item. Evaporust is also virtually odorless and harmless to your skin. I obviously love this product, but would love to see more tests done with the Eastwood product and a product called Liquid Specialties Rust Remover, which claims on eBay to be as good as Evaporust, but much cheaper, and can be purchased in a concentrate that makes 5 gallons for $53 delivered. It sounds like more testing is actually necessary before a "winner" can be determined, but the test in this video is certainly useful, and thanks for doing it!

[@TylrVncnt]

Chris Mason - Thanks for this additional info! Only question I have re: using vinegar - How certain are you that the vinegar caused the pitting vs the part being pitted from the process of rusting in the first place? I too would LOVE to see these variables tested (especially “gentleness” on plated/semi-delicate metals) and all those other products compared! Btw have you since tried that evaporust “concentrate” replacement from eBay? Curious to hear your experience there too! Cheers

[@wavinakma]

Excellent observation - will take this into consideration - am removing rust from old metal toy trucks

[@powerq21]

Agree with you. I restore old woodworking tools and find that I also get an etching type of effect from vinegar on some parts. Evaporust is not the quickest, but it is the most gentle. These are just my observations, no actual testing done. The other big plus for me is that Evaporust can go down the drain - just filter out the rust residue first.

[@kristofferbeder]

Ty Comes - TVPC Production Rust leaves much wider spacing between the pits than the very fine pitting caused by acids. Think polka dots vs sandpaper; they’re easily distinguished. It’s certain that the vinegar can cause pitting simple because it’s an acid. Acids eat both rust and steel, rust just more easily.

[@jimfletcher4719]

@@TylrVncnt the

[@VDV90SHakal]

Evaporust is super gentle. I use it to clean up delicate painted items and it leaves intact. From rusted WW2 relics, antique tins, gun parts and auto parts.. love it. I also love Eastwood products and should try this out for heavily rusted items. Hadn't heard of it. Thanks for the review!

[@MrGeweke]

Thank you for spending the money & time to demonstrate.

[@brendakowen7481]

Thank you! Vinegar is so versatile for many other cleaning projects and so CHEAP!

[@jeremyjohnson9163]

I’ve restore five hand planes and a whole antique Stanley miter saw with metal rescue and I was impressed with it. It may take longer but it’s very gentle on the cast iron which is really easy to ruin with pitting when using something stronger.

[@sethtrott5267]

If you have the time, I let pieces soak for about 3 days submerged in distilled vinegar. Then I scrub it with some steel wool, rinse it, and continue scrubbing it with the steel wool while running it under the stream of water (I might scrub a screw for only 10 seconds or so). I did this to some completely rusted pieces of an old chair that I'm refinishing and the metal looks brand new. I was honestly surprised at the results. Don't doubt the distilled vinegar, just give it a lot of time and some quick scrubbing!

[@ef7496]

How did you soak the chair and vinegar I’m trying to work on a project which I would like to clean a rusted railing

[@sethtrott5267]

@@ef7496 I took everything apart and put all of the rusted metal pieces in a Tupperware container filled with the distilled vinegar and then put a lid on it. I actually still have a larger metal piece that I can't separate from the wooden legs and just bought some Rustoleum jelly for that part. I haven't applied the jelly yet, though.

[@ofeklevy443]

Eastwood (according to online) has 10% Hydrochloric acid, which is highly corrosive to metal. If you don't mind losing metal to remove rust it'll do the job. You might as well use Muriatic acid (pool cleaning aisle) which is 15-30% Hydrochloric acid. If you need a safer alternative or a more pH neutral candidate, I'd go for another candidate and let the rust remove over a longer period of time.

[@tonykazulen2485]

I had very good luck with evaporust and it can be reused so no waste.thank you for the test

[@tootall5559]

Depending on what it is and where it's located, I like to use heat. Anything acidic will work. I use vinegar to clean brass... heating the vinegar to near boiling helps it work faster. Once I'm done with whatever, I keep the pot of vinegar going, reducing it by about half. Since the water in the vinegar boils at a lower temp than the acid, this concentrates the acid. The next time, the vinegar/acid works better and faster, heated or not.

[@BigBear--]

Quick tip: when doing products comparisons like this, you really need to show close ups of the results at various stages. Just standing there talking about them, and waving them around 10’ from the camera does nothing for us, the viewer.

[@masskiller9206]

pretty sure thats basically what he did

[@BigBear--]

Nah...not detailed enough for actual comparison. The testing is ok, but the way it’s shot and shown to us is not great. Check out channel Project Farm (he has at least one video comparing rust removal products) for how to do it right.

[@rogerorock]

Excellent video! Exactly what I wanted to do, but never got around to. You saved me a bunch of work, a lot of gas-wasting miles (I live in rural Montana) and a pretty good chunk of change. Thank you.

[@brianway]

Roger Rock thanks for watching!

[@destitute8493]

Eastwood rust dissolver uses hydrochloric acid (AKA muriatic acid). Naval jelly uses phosphoric acid. Bar Keepers Friend uses oxalic acid. I suggest that you try citric acid. Find a place that sells it in bulk as a powder, it's dirt cheap.

[@cherie5308]

I've had great results with citric acid.

[@AndreFamily7]

what acid is evaporust?

[@AndreFamily7]

you can get muriatic acid for pool water cleaning. I think it would be less expensive there

[@richardking6066]

Hydrochloric acid certainly kills the rust - but it also eats good clean steel!

[@jimstrict-998]

Not as cheap as vinegar.

[@Experiment6Two6]

Thanks for this comparison. One thing to consider is that most (all?) of the tested products are used for soaking the rusted item. But what do you do if you have something that is too large for that to be practical, or any other situation where you just can't do that? I am rehabbing my dad's old radial arm saw; it is mounted to a rolling toolbox-style cabinet, which is approximately three feet tall and two feet wide. Even if I were willing to dismantle the whole thing (which I am not), it would still be really difficult to soak the larger pieces. Any of these worthwhile products, other than the vinegar, would definitely be quite expensive in the quantity required for soaking such large parts. And since I don't want to take the thing apart, it means I need a product that can work when applied to a vertical surface. I have used Rust-oleum Rust Dissolver Gel, which comes in a pump spray, and been fairly pleased with the results on some rusty old rabbit feeders I used as test subjects. They will need a second application (the label says that may be necessary on heavy rust). It also says loose rust should be removed with a wire brush or something similar prior to use, and I did that with a wire wheel chucked into my drill. There were some areas I couldn't get to with that, so before I use it again I will use a small wire brush in my Dremel. Just something to consider -- you can't always soak rusty items.

[@donebysunday4646]

I refurbish motorcycle fuel tanks (3-4 gallons holding capacity), this would be very expensive to buy the amount needed to fill a tank. I noticed on the Evapo-rust directions, label reads if you notice some of the solution has evaporated just add water. OK. So I cleaned the inside of a tank that had old fuel residue (with fuel and a bottle of Chevron Techron, drained and flushed), put in one quart of Evapo-rust topped it of with water plugged the tank up and left it sit. I checked the tank every few days and the solution was working, all in all it took about a week but all clean inside. Flushed it out with a garden hose used the yellow bottle of Heet (gas line anti freeze) sloshed it around to mix with any water, blew it out with compressor then used a hair dryer to make sure, filled it with fuel mixed 100/1 with 2 stroke oil. Later I put it to use, all is well. Tried higher percentage of Evapo-rust on another tank (4 gallon) 4 quarts Evapor-rust and it cut the time to clean in half. Next time I'll try the apple cider vinegar, may take longer but I takes me months to refurbish an old motorcycle, the tank can sit !

[@Rizzycat1]

Try citric acid powder diluted in various amounts of water... also inexpensive. Then try phosphoric, citric, and vinegar mixture. Thanks! Try Prep and Etch from Walmart... phosphoric acid works great. It has a blue-green color. Same stuff used in soda pop. If you have a week, One part Molasses to Nine parts Water works the best of all videos I've watched.

[@bobbywhite961]

Yes thanks for ALL the leg work, doing my frame on a 1985 Chevy Silverado!!

[@billybullfrog]

If you want to speed the process up get a cheap crockpot and start on high until its warm and then on low, check after a couple hours.

[@PeteBasel]

Hi and thanks for an excellent review! I wanted to mention that you can look up the MSDS to find out what is in the different products. Eastwood rust disolver is the only one that is 10% Hydrochloric acid and is therefore quite dangerous to humans - wear extensive protection including eyes and lungs. The Rustoleum product and probably most of the others are Phosphoric acid. Also, I've read that Phosphoric acid reacts with the rust to produce a new compound that does not rust further and can be painted. It might be best to use the Eastwood product to strip it, let it dry, then use a Phosphoric acid product so that any remaining, hidden rust gets converted.

[@SoulStrutter]

Not sure if they have changed the formula or this is a slightly different product ... but it now claims to be 'acid free': www.amazon.co.uk/Eastwood-Dissolver-Quart-remover-removes/dp/B00CQ2HUKS/ref=asc_df_B00CQ2HUKS/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=310513207083&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=17181774096507473580&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9046205&hvtargid=pla-695910421086&psc=1 "Eastwood Rust Dissolver is a safe, acid free rust remover which removes rust, not metal. Eastwood Rust Dissolver works as long as the surface is wet. De-rust small parts by submerging them in a plastic container filled with Rust Dissolver. Items that cannot be fully immersed due to size can be placed in the discharge stream of a commonly available small pump. Common irrigation hose can be used to assure full coverage. Available in US Quart (946ml) and US Gallon (3.78 litres)."

[@ospuddy]

Eastwood is about 10% hydrochloric acid per its MSDS. That's why it so good at removing rust. It may remove some good metal, too.

[@888jackflash]

This is excellent, thanks for doing the hard work! I need a way of cleaning light rust out of motorcycle gas tanks... now I have a good place to start

[@tonywalker2334]

Thank you for ur time and effort in this informative video I have a 1980 Trans Am and the VIN tag was so rusted I couldn’t make out the numbers I had to go with the Loctite because it’s a jelly VS trying to use a liquid on VIN that’s still in the car with the windshield in the way . Going to leave it on overnight with some saran wrap on top to keep it from drying out.

[@migmadmarine]

Torain Walker those gm f bodies sure do get rusty..for sure

[@jimstrict-998]

And...the result?

[@Lyle_918]

Industrial vinegar 30% about $22 a gallon at the hardware store. The vinegar in the comparison was 5%. Then there is muriatic acid but don't leave it in too long.

[@jamesreaves5534]

Try Ospho. it chemically converts Rust which is Iron Oxide to Iron Phosphate a hard Black Inert Substance great for Painting over. All you have to do is remove the loose powdery Rust with a Wire Brush and/or Sandpaper, treat with Ospho, let dry overnight, wipe off any spots that look wet with an absorbent rag then paint. I'm 55 and I've spent my entire life (since the early 70's) doing Painting & Restoration work. I'd Love to see you do a video comparing the Eastwood product to Ospho. God Bless!! Jimmy in NC....

[@steveandrews8301]

Yes, I love Ospho, too, James. I have an antique rusty Briggs and Stratton gas tank; do you think, after cleaning it with gravel, shaking it around / washing it out first, that using Ospho rust killer would work well, in this application? Thanks much.

[@scubbarookie]

You got a good amount of products to test; however, there are way more products on the market! Thank you for this test! 👍

[@brianway]

scubbarookie I just purchased what was readily available around me. I’m sure there has been more products released since this video 2 years ago as well. There has been some great suggestions in these comments too.

[@hestheMaster]

Vinegar on chrome with light rust is cheap and effective. You may have to wait 2-4 hours but wow it's cheap and works.

[@troymeredith521]

I used Evaporust on a completely rusted jointer and it did an amazing job. Love it.

[@13thBear]

Thanks for your video. I have some items with varying degrees of rust on them that need cleaning, so your comparison test is very helpful for me. Again, my thanks!

[@steverose2405]

Thanks for the experiment. The only other product I would have like to see included would be WD40 Rust Remover.

[@k.b.woodworker3250]

I've also used citric acid which is a household product that you mix with water, you can use powdered vitamin C, or citric acid that you use for canning. I heat it up in a big pan on the stove. With that or with vinegar the nice thing is that you can just pour down the drain without worrying. I don't know about the other products or their toxicity. Citric acid is pretty cheap as well as vinegar. I've use vinegar on rusted old tools like saws and hand planes. Those are nowhere near as rusty as your railroad ties. Always good results. If you heat them up periodically it will go pretty fast. Thanks for the informative video.

[@oneway707]

Brain, thank you for a proper way to do a controlled group testing! Great input, info and facilitating the video properly without excessive verbiage!

[@danlopez3251]

You did an excellent job, you just made me a subscriber. I have a Jeep with some rust. Im going to try the vinegar to prolong the life of the metal underneath.

[@donaldblankenship8057]

The hands down winner by far is plain distilled vinegar. It does the same work as the others for pennies. 24 hours in 5% acidity plain drinkable vinegar does the job. It also comes in 30% acidity for industrial, gloves-on, use. It is completely safe around children and pets, and it doesn't harm the planet. It doesn't rot or stink. It kills ants instantly, 10,000 at a time if needed. It's a mild degreaser and cleans glass mirrors, etc. If you have a pest, you can spray a stream of it on them, and it won't come back. Great on salads and is very healthy to consume. Do you want costly dehydrating chemicals sitting out in your garage for years with absolutely no conscientious way of ever disposing it?

[@johnnyjohn8073]

I bought EvaporRust 2 weeks ago to pout into the water jackets in a miata 1.6 engine block. This block was nasty rusty from sitting for 3 years in my garage. It had no oil not coolant so it was rusting this whole time. In only 3 hours I could tell how well it was removing the rust from the crankshaft saddle caps that I had dipped in a separate container with EvaporRust. I was amazed with the results after a day that I had to buy the EvaporRust 5 gallon bucket. I bought a large plastic storage container from Home depot, I filled it with the 5 gallons of EvaporRust, then I dipped the little engine block. Every 5 hours I returned to brush off the gooey rust to expose the harder rust beneath it to be treated. Then I could turn the block to treat the other half. It is amazing how clean it left the block. It's off to the machine shop & then I will use automotive epoxy primer & automotive paint before installing my brass freeze plugs. My next engine block to dip into EvaporRust is my 5.0 mustang engine. Only now I will need an additional 5 gallon bucket of EvaporRust so that I have nearly 10 gallons. Trust me, it is worth the $65 I spent at Amazon. So if EvaporRust works great, I can imagine how much better Eastwood must be. But u won't be disappointed with EvaporRust.

[@pechilanga]

Hey Brian Thanks for all the information. I am fixing my dog dish holder that rusted and I dont want to buy a new one. He loves this one. You did all the research for me. Thank you YP

[@JS-ce1vd]

Very good comparison! One of the better comparisons, and well thought out!

[@bunkerfest]

Naval jelly its supose to be brush on, not submerge. Its a great product, i have found out that if you set it and forget it and come after a couple of hours or days it dries into this white film thats its a bit of a problem to clean off depending on the surface of the part your working on other than that its great, it derust in minutes. Last a long time and its cheap and home depot has unlike the other brands wish you have to order online.

[@bradhamel1610]

I have used white vinegar with great success. There is a trick to it. Put it in a pan and heat it until it reduces by about a third. This will make it stronger. Then submerge your item while it is still screaming hot. You can watch the acid of the vinegar bubbling the rust and some metal away! I have etched Damascus with it.

[@luismendoza363]

Youve taken all of your time to make such a great informative video and i apreciate it thank you very much 2 thumbs up

[@Toontownluver1041]

Excellent info. I have used vinegar as an etchant solution. Heading it to a near boil or too a boil before putting the metal in actually makes it work much better.

[@everydayshowday5151]

Can you add salt to this to make the affects better?? ( add salt before the boiling OR after). Thanks!

[@frankdavidson9675]

i tryed several types like you did i found the cheapest way was well water and the battery charger 12volts about 24 hrs works great

[@randyb3347]

Also, I talked to an old-timer once that was into collectiing railroad lanterns. When i asked him how he cleaned up rusty lanterns he said he soaked them in Saniflush.

[@johnblack8173]

Randy B sana flush sana flush cleans your teeth without a brush!

[@hhattingh]

@@johnblack8173 Fun fact. The surgical antiseptic that was distilled and sold as floor cleaner and a cure for gonorrhea was then re-marketed as what we know now as Listerine...

[@guillermonieri4203]

Thank you; good comparison. I normally use vinegar with salt, and it works wonders.

[@warhammer6968]

Ding, ding, ding...you are correct. Salt makes all the difference. Vinegar and salt would be the clear winner.

[@guillermonieri4203]

@@warhammer6968 Thank you. It does works great. Granted, I have had to leave a very rusted piece for a couple of days, but at the end, it was clean.

[@everydayshowday5151]

Guillermo Nieri - any certain type of salt and is it reusable? ( to keep a tub to use over a week period. ) Thanks!

[@guillermonieri4203]

@@everydayshowday5151 Yes, any type of salt & it is reusable. I mixed 5 gallons once, to clean a 20 gallon gas tank & saved them on the bottles when finished. I still have about 2 gallons left, and still works, but it takes a little longer. Once you have removed the rust, you need to soak the pieces in a water & baking soda solution, and rinse them well.

[@everydayshowday5151]

Guillermo Nieri - many thanks for this information! That was a huge help!

[@mathos00]

Eastwood is hydrochloric acid based, per the MSDS. HCl is a potent rust destroyer, but will remove some good metal. A bottle of muriatic acid (AKA HCl) from your local hardware store will do the same. Evaporust takes longer, but does not harm the base metal, and is reusable a number of times. It will take much, MUCH, longer than HCl, but if you have a day or two allow soaking, it'll work great.

[@TC-dw6wg]

As mentioned in the comments below "Eastwood Rust Dissolver is 10% hydrochloric acid." This info is from the SDS sheets, so be very careful using that stuff. I use Evaporust and find it works really well and hasn't damaged any metal.

[@jimstrict-998]

Reviews for Evaporust-Gel (for large items) aren't very good.

[@randymurray934]

I know a few people when using vinegar also add salt. They say it makes quite a difference.. Cheers great video

[@rodolfogomez382]

For me the combination of vinegar mixed with sodium bicarbonate works very well and eliminates corrosion after 4 days.

[@melissablanton9222]

Thank you!!! Good stuff to know! Everyone can't afford to compare that way so thanks so much

[@brianway]

Glad it was helpful!

[@lindabaumunk6916]

Such a well done experiment, thank you for all that hard work!

[@codycheney3401]

hey thanks for doing the test ! I have seen good results with the vinagar but, its only if soaked for a longer period like a week or more while working on other things it does a good job but, I am cheap and do have the time other wise I would do the eastwood or drx

[@ceclay1]

Apple Cider Vinegar is by far the best way. I had a very corroded metal 1986 ATV gas tank. I left the gas tank full for 2 days and the inside of the gas tank looked new. White vinegar will clean surfaces. Deep rust dissolving Apple Cider vinegar is the only way to go. Just rinse with baking soda and water to neutralize the acid. Then dry and enjoy! Great video though..

[@thewholls7176]

Good video thanks for the information I’m using evapo-rust here in Australia for old tools if you heat it up to about 50°C it works even better even quicker Having said that by way of your test if I had anything as rusty as what you had id be likely hitting it with the wire wheel first to get the bulk of it off or maybe a wire brush that will also minimise contamination of the evapo-rust solution and it should last longer...... Might also help with penetration

[@henryraymond8676]

Thanks for this comparison we need more of these to find out what works and what the efficiency is in terms of money. I hate spending money only to find out that whatever I bought doesn't really work at all. Peace.

[@99skychief]

40% White Vinegar works amazingly well. I see that you used the 5% concentrate. Great Job!!!

[@ellesmerewildwood4858]

I've only used evaporust and found it really good but slower than they claim. Unfortunately evaporust here in Australia (the land of rip-off prices) is 37 bucks a liter (qrt) and 95 bucks for the 5 liter. Metal Rescue is cheaper but I haven't tried it yet. As far as I know, the other products aren't available here. Thanks for the comparo :o)

[@christopherdavidlunn8738]

Have you tried CLR? If so how did it go? I have to get it off a bike.

[@Mike-01234]

Guy on eBay sells powder form knock off of Evaporust works just as good half the price search for industrial rust eliminator

[@manstersr]

What!!! You can't get Coca-Cola or vinegar in Australia?? I hear they have some restrictive gun laws but never imagined Vinegar would be banned. lol.

[@C-M-E]

Phosphoric acid diluted 1:3 in distilled water makes a remarkable rust conversion fluid. People like to say Coke works because it has a minute amount of phosphoric acid in it. It used to be really cheap (85% lab grade) at about $30 a gallon US, but has since ballooned to ~$75 in our 'current times', ala 2022. If you want to really do a 1-2 punch, the phosphoric acid cleaners work pretty well in ultrasonic cleaners (I have a 30 liter unit that gets used weekly). Though if you're able, loading the item to be treated inside a glass container that can reside inside the cleaning chamber water tank area will keep it from corroding the chamber walls. A double sealed plastic bag suspended above the water line also works. No effort on your part for 45 minutes will BLAST rust away.

[@andrewhernandez1529]

Vinegar is my go to! It was awesome to see this comparison since I always wondered how well the others worked. Also, found your channel through Izzy Swan's instagram.

[@rodolfogomez382]

You must consider these pieces where exposed to corrosion for a long time, that is why you must let them inside the solutions for at least 4 days, the results will be so different, at the end the piece must be brushed with fresh water to clean the corrosion removed.

[@tcullen5895]

Thanks for the video. The reason the coke works is the citric acid. If you use citric acid and water it will work much better.

[@malachibray607]

Thanks Brian! Clear difference between them all.

[@rafterL78]

For immersion looks like you found the winner but for quick wipe on, spray off I think I'll go with vinegar on my horse trailer roof. I haven't found a plastic tub big enough, heehee. Thanks for a good video, expedient and informative.

[@golders99]

Great video. Worth its weight in Gold! Thanks for taking the time to do this.

[@raygorsline]

Thank you for your efforts and this excellent comparison. Have you ever tried "The Works" toilet bowl cleaner? It is a strong acid which is blue in color and I wonder how it would do against the Eastwood product. I have dissolved thick rust from many stubborn auto parts within 2 days of sitting in the cleaner solution. The metal comes out a bit pitted as if it has been sandblasted. The best part is, the toilet bowl cleaner is only $1.78 for 32 oz. at Menard's and can be neutralized with water.

[@watermain48]

You were using cooking type white vinegar which is a 5% dilution. The cleaning strength white vinegar is a 10% dilution. Might make a big difference...

[@randyb3347]

Great point Bill, thanks.

[@brianway]

well then with the proper vinegar strength, it may be better than the eastwood?? Is there a higher percentage strength than 10%??

[@watermain48]

That I don't know...

[@psdaengr911]

Cleaning vinegar is 6%, not 10%

[@watermain48]

Label I looked at here says 10%. Maybe they're wrong...

[@tristantaus4556]

I like rust removal liquids but I only use it in a glass jar lidded and its for bolts, nuts, washers, anything small..for bigger metal stuff I use vinegar; it really depends the job, how much time, and if you trying to reach nooks & crannies

[@tristantaus4556]

I just don't discard rust removal liquids from jar either due to pitch black color its still good! Use pliers to remove

[@donaldkluge2573]

Awesome study thanks..I'm restoring old Schwinn and didn't want to waste my money on ineffective products!

[@hopelessable]

I am watching this on Good Friday, Those spikes!!!! Great comparison test

[@bobklimple7526]

I strongly agree with ElderlyIron. I am restoring a 1975 Ford F250 and I have used some of the Eastwood products and have been really impressed.

[@ElderlyIron]

Nice job on the comparison. Saves folks a lot of time! If you have heavy rust, or even light for that matter, use some muriatic acid. True that it's highly caustic and takes strict handling precautions, but it'll clean that spike in 30 minutes or less!

[@dougstrong696]

Muriatic acid is an acid and not a caustic like sodium hydroxide. Muriatic acid will eat the metal.

[@JohnBessa]

Phosphoric (H3PO4) acid is what I used on a really old tugboat - it had more bubbling action w less acid-strength on skin which was not that much - memory leads are linus pauling and electronegativity from chem decades ago - tried HCl too, which was less effective and quite nasty - Coke and pepsi have phosphoric acid

[@JDFARM]

Brian, I think you did an excellent job on the comparisons. The information I have gained will be useful. I am doing some research on rust removal. I recently purchased some rusty micrometers and other precision instruments that I want to be very delicate with. Eastwood Rust Dissolver. I checked the MSDS sheet. A little hard to find. The only active ingredient was Urea Hydrochloride. I didn't get the percentage of the active ingredient. As far as I can tell, it is related to Muriatic acid. The Urea Hydrochloride is in about everything, especially bowl and shower cleaners. My next step is to compare the MSDS sheet on the Watkins bowl cleaner and a couple other things I have ideas about. Once the research is complete I am going to apply one drop of each solution to a piece of clean metal. After several different time lapses, I intend on checking each one under a microscope for metal pitting. The time limits are not as important as the metal preservation. I appreciate all the help and information that everyone has contributed to my little project. If in the event I come to a definite conclusion I will try to get the information back to you. Again, Thank You Very Much. JD

[@bitTorrenter]

Try Seal-Krete Clean-N-Etch (20-40% Urea Hydrochloride) About $9 a quart on Amazon.

[@RobF15E]

Very nice job comparing the products. Nice methodology.

[@bonnie448]

I have used coca cola to great success, I used it on several rusty pliers, screwdriver bits. It takes a lot more than 30 mins. But it is probably the cheapest of all the ones you used. Patience, some took three days, some went in for another three days, but they all came out pristine, like new.

[@michaelroof1969]

Thank you for doing this video Brian. Great info and a time saver. Well worth the watch.

[@brianway]

Michael Roof thank you!

[@robertglidewell9494]

Eastwood Rust Stripper is adverized as a "non-acid" stripper. It is Urea Hydrochloride which is an acid salt. When combined with water the hydrogen ions which were previously replaced (to make it a salt in the first place) make it a hydrochloric acid solution once again. You could prob achieve similar results with diluted muriatic (much cheaper) which is traditionally ~30% dilution of HCL but always verify bc variable dilutions of muriatic acid have been reported. HCL is a very aggressive, which can EASILY eat through your metal if left. It leaves a clean, shiny, smooth surface HIGHLY susceptible to flash rust. If you are not going to recoat or oil your metal afterward, phosphoric acid (VERIFY) might be a better choice bc it is slightly less agressive and leaves a black finish less prone to corrosion; however, you prob cannot paint on it nor is it found by itself. You must find it in paint stripping or wood stripping formulations. Always check your MSDS, use proper PPE and neutralize your waste chemicals before storage or proper disposal.

[@Rizzycat1]

If you had a week, nothing works better than molasses and water and it's very inexpensive. Use nine parts water to one part molasses.

[@wn9448]

For soaking rusty metal, go to your local dollar store and get their house brand version of CLR. Soak overnight for a good, cheap result.

[@JohnSmith-vz8pc]

I Use pure methanoic acid after boiling the parts on the stove, with the acid in proportion to the rust present. this reduces it to ferrite, which I then rinse and remove with boiling dilute sodium hydroxide and detergent solution. (hard surface cleaner)

[@andrewmorke]

Yeah science, Mister White

[@randyb3347]

Great video, thanks! I would love to see the same demonstration using all of the suggested common, low cost options: vinegar 5%, vinegar 10%, molasses, vinegar and salt, vinegar and baking soda, navel jelly, tea, coke etc. That would be great also!!! Thanks again.

[@RM-rz3ph]

Thank you Sir for your experiment. Outstanding

[@Mike-01234]

I figured out what the chemicals are in Evapo-Rust you can buy this on eBay it's food grade so non toxic. 1 part Sodium Gluconate to 1 part Citric acid powder. You mix that with water 1 cup per gallon works great. I found the Sodium Gluconate $12 per lb and citric acid $10 a lb. there are larger quantity also make more. If you google Sodium Gluconate it states used as a Chelating agent rust removal.

[@shawntursack900]

Nice demo! but I use vinegar and baking soda and u don't dilute it with water, u rinse off with water to stop the acidity when yur done, I've left parts soak for up to a couple days dry then wire wheel them or throw in the tumbler to polish gives a nice surface for u to prime n paint then, can't afford to throw away money on expensive chemicals and on a plus note u can use the old vinegar to kill weeds.

[@archittt1]

You might also add electrolysis derusting to the comparison as well

[@CBTalon97]

I've heard alot of buzz about molasses at a 1:9 ratio (molasses to water) and soaking your parts for a few days/weeks doing an amazing job without harming the base metal. It might be worth looking at.

[@setdown2]

Vinegar works but will eat metal if left in too long...do try one part molasses and nine parts water..leave submerged for one week remove brush off with water then resubmerge for a week..clean...will not hurt metal...cheep but takes time...

[@robertoscar4749]

You will get the exact same reaction from "Sno-bowl" toilet bowl cleaner... active ingredient, HCL! Starts off blue, turns green and watery and does a great job, been using it for years! I also checked out the Eastwood site and it is $20 bucks a quart! They do not have an MSDS online but seeing it specifically says not to use on aluminum, I'm guessing it is fancy toilet bowl cleaner. (a chemistry major already pointed out the "acid" connection here)

[@brianway]

Robert Oscar I have learned so much by making this video, with all the ideas and comments! Got to love social media, free education!

[@johnhall8455]

Phosphoric acid works really well and doesn’t attack the good steel like hydrochloric acid White vinegar is great for cleaning brass and copper…

[@suzyjohnson4667]

Eastwood is the very best. Usually it only takes about 45 minutes or so for most jobs.

[@louel9272]

Vinegar FTW cause its cheap and easy to find anywhere. You also dont need to stock the unused vinegar as it can be used for cooking. Also environmentally sound and not a health hazard during use 👍

[@andrewfraser4347]

Someone else mentioned molasses diluted 9:1 with water. Works great but takes longer, maybe a week depending on the rust. Would be the cheapest of the lot. In Australia we can’t get most of these products, we’re still in the dark ages, and when we can get them you have to mortgage your house to afford them.

[@jeannineguay8830]

Try lemon and salt mixture. It's the only thing that was able to remove rust from my tub.

[@bryancomeaux4961]

naval jelly cannot be soaked it has to be applied for chemical activation . those are rust remover converters. naval jelly is a rust restorer, back to full volume metal. so no pits, surface defects. so that means no brushing iust off first, leaving all the rust corrosion in place. multiple applications, no washing scrubbing until the loose rust is converted back to surface metal then wash the last residue off, the must be 100 water moisture deactivates the product. multiple coats needed 2 hours between coats over 60 degrees under 120

[@akuriarenzaul]

should try a high acidity vinegar. you can get industrial grade vinegar for like 20 bucks a gallon. 45% pure acidity vinegar is what you want. it'll strip paint.

[@suzannemix2528]

Would love the active ingredients in each!

[@kchappelle]

Ingredients that work? Sulfuric acid and Phosphoric acid mixed. Pure sulfuric acid will clean those railroad ties to the bare metal in 10 minutes. Forget the stuff that takes hours or days.

[@archittt1]

I would like to see just how many times you can reuse the eastwood product. I've used a couple of the other products, they work well at first but I found that on a a/c (squirrel cage) fan, it worked well on the first side I was able to soak, but when I turned it over the next day it didn't really work well at all, I was forced to buy a new bottle of the product to finish removing the rust.

[@danbudd5194]

According to the SDS sheet, Eastwood Rust Dissolver is 10% hydrochloric acid.

[@dfailsthemost]

Yikes

[@kristofferbeder]

BINGO - that’s why it’s so cheap and effective. For anyone else considering using this product or muriatic acid (20% HCL) - this will eat away good metal. It will eat chrome and other finishes and etch the surface of your parts. If the acid is not neutralized completely, The metal will become brittle over time. The bubbles that you see in the video are a reaction with the good steel, not the rust. Bubbles are cool, but not for good tools or anything that you care about.

[@csaleen302]

Yeah so it dissolves rust and pits good metal. Sounds like a great idea