Viewer Requests: Kato Switches and Switch Controllers With DC and DCC

Viewer requests: how the switches work on my layout and how I hooked up the switch controllers. Hope this videos answers the few different questions I got. If more Information is needed, contact me via email below.
@Silver State Trains
PO Box 2365
Gardnerville, NV 89410
Email: [e-mail]
#modeltrains#kato#nscale#n-scale

[@tommynorwood5184]

I put Velcro stripes under my kato switches to keep them in place. Thanks for sharing.Have a good day.

[@Silverstatetrains]

Good idea. Thanks for sharing.

[@user-fs5no4um7n]

The teacher is doing great. As perhaps an after thought. The yard sitting in the picture for most of the video could be made to be a run through yard with a few stub-in tracks tossed in. You'll like the operations you can have and the additional switching. Enjoy and I will be looking forward to more videos. BarstowRick out.

[@Silverstatetrains]

That is a great idea. I am currently on my third layout since this video and I now have a pull through yard. You will have to let me know what you think of the newer layout I am making when you get to my recent videos. Thanks for watching!

[@bncsystemsshortline]

Very cool man!! Now your teaching people!!! We all learn and teach as we go in this hobby!!

[@Silverstatetrains]

Yeah I am glad I was able to help. Hopefully my advise/help was correct. Thanks man.

[@bncsystemsshortline]

Yea you did good brother! I see alot of people do it this way. Great work!! ​@@Silverstatetrains

[@Silverstatetrains]

Thanks.

[@justgonnatruckit1127]

Thank you for explaining it. Now I know what I can do

[@Silverstatetrains]

Glad I could help.

[@BriansModelTrains]

Your new microphone sounds clear and loud. Great video!

[@Silverstatetrains]

Sweet! I am glad it sounds better now. Thanks for letting me know.

[@Dcritch71]

Great video brother. I should be posting one soon in the next couple days with the yardwork. I did it over the weekend. Finally got about 90% of one of my yards temporarily wired for power. Still working on the switches. The Kato switches are a complete beast if you want to use anything other than their controllers like you are currently doing. I am working on a combination, mimic panel with push buttons with the Arduino and a manual option with their controllers. But it is an absolute beast to work on.

[@derailroad]

i posted that comment under the wrong account…

[@Silverstatetrains]

Yeah I am not looking forward to wiring the switches. I was planning on using a Digitrax unit and mounting push buttons all over the layout. I cannot think of the model # but it can control up to 4 switches per unit. Good luck with your yard. I will look for your channel! Thanks!

[@jontaylor6068]

NCE does make a board/chip for the switches so you can use your power cab. My layout is not big enough to use the NCE board/chip . I only use the kato power pack for the switches only. My layout is DCC. My DCC is NCE. My kato turnouts has screws for power and non power routing. Just giving you a heads up

[@Silverstatetrains]

Sounds like you use #4 switches. One of my future tasks will be upgrading my switch controllers so I can ditch the Kato pack and use push buttons placed throughout my layout. I was looking at the digitrax unit. Will have to check out the NCE unit as well. Thanks for the suggestion.

[@jontaylor6068]

@@Silverstatetrains I do have #4 switches and I also have a left to right switch that has the same thing.

[@Silverstatetrains]

Oh cool. Thanks for the helpful information.

[@dino21tx]

Thanks for the great video. I am going to set up my layout the same way using 6 total #4 turnouts. I am going DCC also and will use my old powerpack like you did to only control the switching of the turnouts. Do I need to do those insulated connectors on the ends of the turnouts? I dont really understand that part of it. So with 6 total turnouts, I am going to have to add those insulated connectors to the ends of all those turnouts? (that is the only thing I am unsure of)

[@Silverstatetrains]

Thanks for watching. I would recommend using the Kato #6 switches. They are more bullet proof and are more reliable then the #4 switch’s. I have seen many comments from people who have had nothing but problems with those. Cars also seem to derail more on them. I had that issue with my crossover which is basically a #4 switch. That being said, if you are building a layout with tighter curves or with limited space, the #4 switches are still a good option. Mike Fifer made a good video explaining the insulators. Look up this video “Wiring for DCC with N Scale Kato Unitrack”. I used this video a lot when I got started. I also made two new videos going over another way to power your switches which you could easily move to which would not require the Kato power pack to power the switches. Look up “how to power Kato switches without the power pack, proof of concept” and “everything you need to power Kato switches with DCC”. The main reason for the insulators is it creates blocks in your track which helps to isolate where your problems are. The switches are a great place to do that as it visually makes sense. I hope this helps. Feel free to email me your track plan and I could help you lay that out. Thanks for watching.

[@mosindesire]

Hey, about the turnout extension cables, you said you are using the Kato ones and I agree that is the best but if cost is a factor? I have a future layout that will need 15 turnouts/switches and its a large U shape layout, if I use one Kato power pack, I'm going to need anywhere from 22 extension cables to 37. That is a lot of money tied up in cables. Besides getting a second power pack so as "split the layout", could I just get a spool of 24 gauge wire and just make my own extension cables? Be a heck of a lot cheaper.

[@Silverstatetrains]

So I am going DCC with my layout and I will not be using the cables really at all any more from Kato. I will be getting a Digitrax switch controller that can control and power 4 switches then I will mount buttons all over the face of my layout inline with the switches. If you are staying DC, I do not see why you could not cut the Kato switch cable, add the 24g wire in the middle then reconnect the factor Kato piece at the end to reach the power pack. Doing multiple power packs would be a good idea as well so it is less of a headache knowing which switch to throw. Have 7 on one and 8 on the other kind of thing. No wrong way to do it though. Whatever works for you. I may have some Kato switch controllers I no longer need if you want to email me about them. Hope this helps.

[@khatske]

On the cameras, have you tried calling text support for their services. Or perhaps try pressing the other button down longer?

[@Silverstatetrains]

I have tried holding it down way longer then you should have too. From charging to operating, they do not work as they should. I did an exchange to get a new one to try again but they both do not work. I did the basic trouble shooting on them but did not call tech support. I did watch other KZbin videos as well for more insight but they are just dead. Since they were really cheap and I do not have a lot of free time, I am not going to bother with tech support on these cameras. I will try something else.

[@khatske]

@@Silverstatetrains alright 👍. It was just a thought. Maybe I'll investigate for ya for some other odds and ends.

[@Silverstatetrains]

That would be great. I wanted it to work and I have seen success elsewhere. Maybe I just got two bad ones.

[@JRPaquatics]

Is the kato powerpack plugged into the dcc power supply or does it have it's own power supply? Im considering getting Digitrax DCS 52 Zephyr Express but i have the kato switches you have.

[@Silverstatetrains]

The Kato powerpack has its own power supply. The powerpack is not connected to or effecting the track other then suppling the 12v needed to operate the Kato switch motors. I did a recent video showing another way to power Kato switches with DCC that may be useful. Look up “everything you need to power Kato switches with DCC” and “how to power Kato switches without Kato powerpack proof of concept”. Would be a cheaper option for you if you do not have the Kato powerpack already OR plan to have many switches. This would give you a way to put switches all over the place with its own power. Thanks for watching.

[@JRPaquatics]

@@Silverstatetrains Thanks!

[@Silverstatetrains]

No problem. Glad I could help.

[@Dcritch71]

oh, I forgot when I was commenting the first time what are those taps you use for your bus line? I think I like those. Can you shoot me a link or a post a link here

[@derailroad]

I posted those under the wrong account. I do love those taps would be very interested in the link for them.

[@Silverstatetrains]

I have order two of these kits. This kit and the same but more of them. The quantity ranges based on you need. Nilight - 50004R 120 Pcs/60 Pairs Quick Splice Wire Terminals T-Tap Self-stripping with Nylon Fully Insulated Male Quick Disconnects Kit. Hope this helps.

[@derailroad]

@@Silverstatetrains thanks brother

[@Silverstatetrains]

Your welcome.

[@SFCRambo60]

I had to switch from 4K to 2K and what gets me is why doesn't the equipment or instructions say you have to setup in 2K.

[@Silverstatetrains]

Interesting. I can check that out but I cannot even get any lights to come on at all.