I Fixed The Langstroth Hive (Again) - Bee Barn 2.0 REVEAL!

[@vinofarm]

It's great to be back in the comments section! Keep them coming!

[@timothyodonnell8591]

I'm wondering if you're going to edit the videos to insert "Future Jim" to address some of the concerns raised in the comments (e.g. bees or mice chewing through the sides, the see through top becoming more opaque over time, the use of foam versus wood, etc).

[@vinofarm]

@@timothyodonnell8591 I have an even better idea! And I'm going to try it out pretty soon. I've had the idea and desire to do video responses to comments for years now, but I didn't want to flood my channel with short random videos of me answering questions. I like the idea of video replies because I can explain something on video in seconds, but it takes forever to type out a complicated idea. So I just started a second channel that will be a receptacle for shorts, news, behind the scenes, updates, extended clips, etc. Not so much a "dumping ground," but a lot less curated than this channel and all the videos will be one-take unedited type videos. KZbin Shorts is a perfect medium to reply to specific KZbin comments, so there will be a lot of that. So I'm going to be experimenting with that over the coming weeks.

[@timothyodonnell8591]

@@vinofarm That IS an even better and great idea! I look forward to the new channel and the shorts.

[@arcticbeekeeping]

We use poly boxes here I norway and the bees do not chew on the boxes. Ants can chew if the poly boxes are made out of a softer material. If we have softer boxes we use paint to stop chewing.

[@drrota]

@@vinofarmGreat idea - like the "beekeeping short and sweet podcast by the guy in the UK", Though sometimes he's long and sour" :)

[@FrederickDunn]

Hi Jim! It's nice to see you back and making more bee-related videos. It's always fun to see your innovations. Your barn and workshop are a dream come true. Your craftsmanship is always impeccable! Thanks for sharing, and I wish you a fantastic 2023 with your bees :) I'm absolutely with you on the venting, keep it up, we'll be watching :)

[@vinofarm]

Thanks for stopping by, Fred! The barn really is a dream. Happy New Year to you, as well!

[@FrederickDunn]

@@vinofarm Absolutely! I was getting a little worried when you weren't posting new content. Great update!

[@julieenslow5915]

Hello Fred - I've been away and I was away from my favorite content hope to be back in it this Spring! Happy New Year!

[@drrota]

Jim, For the sealed insulation term to replace the phrase "all in", it might be better to call it a "Diving bell" or a "Submarine with a bottom entrance". (or for those science nuts, an "upside-down Dewar flask".). :)

[@davidscottboring940]

Discovery and advancements never happen unless someone is willing to sail their ship out of the harbor. You are breaking new ground all the time! Your journey is exciting and keeps it fresh. Rock on, bro.

[@Stumper52]

The one thing I have to say about styrofoam hives (made of extruded foam, not the ones made in moulds) is that bees love to chew the foam. While the problem is escalated if they see light through a crack, they will chew it no matter what to make more space. The most problematic area for this is 100% the entrance which I can see you've thought of. I hope you don't have too many problems with this. Also another problem with foam is that waxmoth larva love to chew it and make tunnels into it making it impossible to get rid of them. Where I'm from we don't have hive beetles (thank god) so no clue what those are like in foam. Also having no moisture absorbing material in the hive might be a problem in the late autum or winter. While the insulation will keep the temperature relatively stable the bees still won't keep the whole box warm in the middle of the winter. Hot moist air will raise from the cluster, cool as it touches the outer wall and condensation will form. While as you've said the bees need some water to drink during winter, I'd be more afraid of stuff growing on the walls. Remember bees ventilate during most of the year but when in cluster they don't so some moisture absorption might be better than none. The last thing about foam is you have to put a UV protective layer on it or it will degrade rapidly. I've made about 300 foam hives so far (30mm or 1 1/4 thick foam) so all of this is in good faith and from experience :) All that being said I really hope these hives work out for you :) Now for the solutions to these problems... while your upgrade from v1 to v2 did create better insulated hives I believe that the core hive of v1 is better for all the things I mentioned above. The main solution is a way to protect the foam from bees and waxmoth larvae as well as adding a moisture buffer. And this is also where I'm currently stuck with my foam hives. While making a sort of wood foam sandwitch like in v1 works it takes a lot of material. I'd much prefer a solution that can be applied to the foam and form a strong coat, be cheap and non toxic to bees...

[@twc9000]

Have you come up with a solution yet? The only thing I can think of is to line the interior with thin plywood, but if it's too thin (1/8" or 1/4") it might warp, and it will add more weight and complexity.

[@hot_tunas]

Realistically we have 3 options, wood, plastic or metal. Each of the 3 have pros and cons but I do think you need to protect the inside and outside of the foam from the bees and other wildlife. Moisture wise you could always set up the top part to absorb it with cloth or something during winter(which I feel would cause the most issues as the bees are inactive). So a plastic sandwich could work in that case, but then you have to worry about warping and damage from the sun. Wood has similar issues from getting damp but it might be easier to manage with a coat of paint or oil layer as protection. Metal has the issue of absorbing to much heat from the sun, so I feel like that wouldn't be that good for the bees, but maybe a plastic/metal or wood/metal hybrid protective layer may work too. It would provide much more protection from wildlife. Honestly though I'm not to sure what would be the best option, even if you took the cost of it all out of it.

[@MarianneSandy-wo8yh]

I followed his directions and took a standard hive and covered it with 2" foam, bottom, sides, front, back. I had coreplast and put that over the foam and screwed it in using 3" screws. It worked well. Since the coreplast is corregated, I caulked the top and the bottom and any areas where there was an opening. I took self adhesive vinyl wall paper and covered the bottom, and 1/2 way up the walls. I did the same for the top down. There are no holes or openings. Lets see how this works out. My first hive I have to add the caulk and the vinyl self adhesive wall paper. Of course the wallpaper was pretty with flowers. I know, I know, bees don't care about what the hive looks like. But........I do and sometimes i get carried away. 🙂 Lets see how they do this winter. I wouldn't use the coreplast again though. Home Depot has a thin plastic sheet that might work out better. Or maybe just self stick vinyl wall paper.

[@bradgoliphant]

Hey Vino! Great job. Wow!!! We all know by now that these pine boxes we keep bees in needed an upgraded decades ago. So well done. I’m a firm believer in double-deep frames, as well as no upper entrances. Bees will tell you they only need one bottom entrance. And speaking of helping the bees regulate temps and humidity-I just learned about the HiveGate. Great job.

[@drrota]

I love the air gap in the winter top !!! Awesome (a Yurt-like idea). I've built two Barn Hives 1.0+ versions (waiting for deploy in 2023) with some similar changes to the bottom board - sealed, but no screen, solid. I will likely add a drain wick (post build - like they use in masonry). I expect to build 2 more before bee season) (I like how you did that - great idea). One thing about outer skins of just insulation - and ant's - you've said you don't have a lot of ant problems, but once they get into the insulation, it becomes a tunneling project for them, and they will build a home in there. Just like under your bottom insulation. (good idea with chloroplast under your hives too) Be prepared - once there's food in your yard and a warm place to stay - the ants will seize on that opportunity and eventually you'll have a lot more ant colonies around your bee yard. (been there, had that). Just like bees, ants, (and mice too) can smell food, and they unfortunately can operate in colder weather than bees. Might be worth considering some other outer shield method for the insulation, other than just 2 coats of paint. I've used insulation before and have had mice and ants tunnel. There might be a type of paint that is insect resistant (but not an insecticide). "Haint blue" or "dirt dauber blue" that may add copper-in-the-paint or something. Keep up the great work - Looking forward to chatting w/you again. --- Your easterly neighbor 20 miles away. ...Don...

[@Matty88K]

This looks like a fabulous improvement on the traditional Langstroth system. Especially for beekeepers in the Northern latitudes. 100% survival through the winter is....WOW!!!! Several amateur beekeeper friends gave up when they found nothing but dead bees every Spring. This seems to replicate the kinds of conditions that allow wild hives to make it through brutal winters in Canada, New England, and the Upper Midwest. So cool how the bees told you that they didn't want ventilation at the top, plugging up the holes you had provided. Listen to the bees and they will tell us how to help them. Hope your newer configuration will avert swarming and allow you to build up and do splits in the early Summer.

[@timhuffman6970]

Welcome back. Not sure you'll ever see this comment in the sea of comments, but maybe others will read and comment. Please understand that I love your creativity and experimentation, and I hope you keep it up. I'm an Alaskan beekeeper, so I'm very familiar with the benefits of insulation, and I've also experimented with plexiglass inner covers. As several others have pointed out, I hope that is high density foam you're using. If it's standard foam insulation for human houses, they'll destroy it in no time flat. My first year I built a nuc out of 2" foam, and it was ruined in less than a week. If I put foam in a hive now (say, a follower board), I cover it with packing tape to prevent chewing. That wouldn't work with a box, because it would also inhibit propolis deposits, which are important to colony health. I've also experimented with plexiglass inner covers. I loved them for the first season, but over a multiple seasons the wax and propolis deposits significantly reduce visibility. You could still estimate cluster size, but could not determine if a frame had capped syrup/honey or not. My attempts to clean them only scratched them up, but maybe you can figure out something I couldn't. Finally, your upper entrance, (overhead) ventilation, and inner cover observations are spot on. It may not matter much in warmer places, but in Alaska, helping colonies retain heat is critical to overwintering. After some experimentation, I only use Reflectix as an inner cover. It's easy to peel off, even then the bees are doing their best to glue it down. It also forms a great gasket for the top box (in winter, it's filled with insulation) and/or outer cover.

[@vinofarm]

Inner boxes are super dense poly hives. Not regular foam. You'll see in the build videos. Thanks for the thoughtful comment.

[@mike_carvalho]

​@@vinofarm Aha! I found it. You're using the Lyson 8/9 Deep (Polystyrene) Hive Body! I was wondering how you had built those frame rests.

[@vinofarm]

@@mike_carvalho 100 Internet points for you. You'll hear all about them in the video on Tuesday.

[@drrota]

@tim, My guess, if you have extra plexiglass covers, you can swap them out and use boiling water to melt off most of the propolis, and wax.

[@Serendipity_Strawberry_Farm]

WOW I only found your channel today and watched your first video from 7 years ago and have watched your progression and honestly you’ve blown my mind with how cleverly thought out, designed and built your version 2. You give me confidence that I can and will be successful with my bees when they arrive this Spring. I have been learning what I need to do from other beekeepers in our local area but I have watched so many KZbin videos on what I may need to do and by far yours has been the most enlightening. Great job mate :) I know what I am going to be doing for the next week….binge watching all of your videos :) Just marvellous. Cheers Theresa - South Coast Australia

[@Stagixx]

I missed the bees. Crazy how long this journey has been ^^ I was fresh out of school when all of this started. Now the bees have their luxury panorama roof villa and I'm still working to get my two room flat XD

[@raymahl]

Just stumbled on this and it's so cool. Planning on getting my first nuc of bees next spring and I'm so excited. Thanks for sharing!

[@joshbunker9855]

Was so excited to see you back! Thank you for sharing your journey. I really appreciate the openness with which you share your process.

[@DM-wb4jv]

Love watching smaller keepers like myself finding ways of battling our northern winters. Took some tips from bee barn 1.0 with some changes and been working great this winter. We had a bit of warm up in southern ont. and they were out flying and a higher population than normal! Missed the videos .

[@julieenslow5915]

Welcome back! You have been missed on KZbin. So excited with V2.0 and what is coming. I'll save my thoughts until after all four videos - if I can control myself. Be well Jim!

[@drrota]

Julie, If you are a "maker", just start building, and experimenting. With insulation (vs wood), its a lot simpler. And instead off plexiglass tops, I've seen people use thick sheets of plastic.

[@merpenbeck]

Great redesign! I'm definitely copying this design in Chicago this spring. Keep innovating!

[@thehturt5480]

You seem to be like a pioneer on this field. People like You are pushing the envelop and so leading to new discoveries. These being said I will stick to my wooden hives for some reasons.

[@vinofarm]

Cool. Thanks. I’m sharing what works for me. If it inspires people to try something new, I’m happy. Maybe someone else gets an idea from me and takes this to another level. I just like sharing.

[@IndyCarJoe]

Good to see you back, Jim

[@brucesison5474]

Nicely done Jim. Your dedication to changing the bee keeping game is inspiring.

[@vinofarm]

Thanks 👍

[@StephenBiggers]

Nice to hear that the hives survived and had brood early; would liked to see you keep an old hive to compare.

[@metooplease9636]

It is so good to see someone working to fix issues instead of falling back on "That's how everyone does it, so it must be the best way". There will always be push pack from people who don't like change, but you're seeing positive results. Keep up the good work.

[@lordmike1627]

i have the same polystyrene boxes he's using and they already work perfect on their own without a million modifications lol

[@CrazyIvan865]

Wonderful. People say I don't know what I'm talking about. But replicating a natural environment as much as possible usually tends to work out better. Glad to hear it.

[@nikolaasp2968]

5:36 There are several types of Layens hives, the most commonly known is horizontal but vertical Layens hives with supers do exist and have been around for a while, they are called Layens pastorale and Layens divisible. These hives were very common in the past and are still used in some regions of Europe today and I know that in the cold regions of France these hives used to be insulated with a thick layer of straw or reeds on the outside.

[@vinofarm]

I was not aware of that. Are they all the typical Layens sized frames?

[@nikolaasp2968]

​@@vinofarm Yes, the Layens Pastorale is composed of a body containing 9 or 10 typical Layens sized frames, and the supers uses 8 or 9 half-sized layens frames. As for the Layens Divisible it is basically made of Pastoral supers so it is intended to use half-sized layens frames but it is possible to put full sized layens frames in two stacked Layens supers.

[@vinofarm]

@@nikolaasp2968 I know a lot of people look at my frames and immediately compare them to Layens frames, but mine are actually about 50% larger. My observation with how the queens are using my frames is that bigger is better for them. Also, bigger frames means fewer frames for the beekeeper to worry about. Fewer frames to pull during inspections, etc. It’s interesting to hear about hives I never knew about and it’s common for people to seek similarities and make comparisons, but I am very happy with what I’ve built. It’s basically an extra deep Langstroth hive. And from what I’ve read about Langstroth, the design is closer to what Langstroth envisioned and built than the typical “Langstroth” thin hives that are used today.

[@SurlyPlatypus]

Love seeing you Jim. Enjoy your Bee Spring!!

[@jkdniel]

Can’t wait to see how the new bee barns work out.

[@graemediesel2936]

You have a lot of good ideas here. I am probably steal some of them to redesign the wraps I build for my beehives. 😀

[@vinofarm]

That’s the idea!

[@theworldoftrading4592]

After 150 years, someone finally improved on the basic Langstroth for those of us in colder climates. Nice work Sir! I look forward to building them 🙂

[@georgetaylor9154]

and what exactly was their to fix about it??

[@ProjectHomeGrown]

Very very well done, I am a big fan of your ingenuity!

[@sirwinstonhoneybees1376]

Well, this is very exciting, especially since I don't have a huge trove of woodworking tools at my disposal. I wonder if you'll also have specs for your nucs? Glad you've been watching the Mandalorian during your down time! Question also about propolis or burr comb on the plexiglass?

[@Joseph-Colin-EXP]

Good to see you again Jim. I checked back a few times over a couple months, glad to see you're abck at it. No doubt these vids take time to edit and compile.

[@BugFarmerBees]

Incredible job. I can see the amount of thought you have put into this design. This is a game changer for all bees, not just the northern ones. You have created a beehive that mimics their natural environment based on empirical evidence. They will feel safe and secure which should translate into healthier more productive hives. I know the bees are happy as was evident by the 20,000 smiling little bee faces looking up at us when you showed us the inspect-ability at the end on a 40F day. No Cluster, imagine that :-). That is exactly the way my bees behave in their heated hives, they mill around and use fewer resources. You have created the same outcome without heaters. Your bees resource consumption will be cut in half. It's great to have you back in the game. You always have so much to offer and I cant wait to see the frames. P.S. I am extremely jealous of your shop. Two thumbs up!

[@TheRainHarvester]

Heated? Nice idea! What region are you in? Would these get too hot in central Texas?

[@vinofarm]

Woo woo. Thanks, @bugfarmerbees

[@BugFarmerBees]

@@TheRainHarvester I am in Georgia. Forgive for hocking my channel Jim :-) www.youtube.com/@BugFarmerBees That in mind, with Jim's new design heaters are obsolete(ish).

[@rtxhoneybees]

I am in Central Texas and I believe they would actually benefit the bees in July and August because it would cut down on heat gain (both solar and thermal) an would preserve more of the overnight cooling. I would, however give them some ventilation opportunity for the 100 degree days.

[@TheRainHarvester]

@@rtxhoneybees my friends bees beard at 1am in summer. I think the insulation might harm at that time.

[@Hewhoisstoned420]

Not a beekeeper yet but as someone who’s been researching I think you might have the best design for the harsh climate I’m in! Can’t wait to experiment and see what works for me 🐝

[@teachbearcop]

24:00 how does the lip of the polystyrene foam hold up to the weight of the frames? Do you think it will need to be reinforced?

[@HostileTakeover2]

I wondered the same thing. You could trim a little of the foam and add a thin wood frame on top that will help distribute the pressure and maintain rigidity while not adding much overall weight.

[@jonahbrame7874]

I have been anxiously awaiting your evolution of the bee barn, and I've gotta say, you did not disappoint! The clear lid is game changer, as is pretty much everything about it. You are right; this is the way!

[@AllanGyllingOlsen]

Remenber, if the bees have a lot of pollen/food when they come out in the spring, they Will swarm for sure. Keep Them “hungry” and they Will swarm less

[@Matty88K]

Or maybe do splits and naturally increase the number of hives in your aviary (if you have the room).

[@gwynmorris5852]

So interesting - love this. The way you reason out the design is fantastic. Thank you.

[@shemwayman1146]

I HAVE BEEN WATCHING YOUR PROGRESSION, I THINK YOU ARE ON THE RIGHT PATH, MAKES LOTS OF SENSE.

[@robertling9872]

Thank you for sharing you information and video's.

[@InsideTheHiveTV]

Yes!!! Insulation is key! Bees completely take care of themselves with FULL insulation!!

[@pattiott4871]

Thank you so much for sharing your ingenuity

[@dan.vitale]

Superb Jim. Love the passion, dedication and creativity. The new barn is amazing. That plexiglass is super satisfying!!

[@handsburyhoneybees893]

Looks good Jim . I have been doing the plexiglass for 4 years . Looks good . The only issue I had with plexiglass about the outside inch gets a little moisture . It works . I made my boxes so if you need to add feed you can pull a small piece of plexiglass out . Add feed close back . You will get people that tell you it won’t work . I quit talking about plexiglass . Because all the haters . Good job

[@vinofarm]

What thickness did you go with? This is 3/8” so it would support a pail feeder filled with syrup. I’m really loving it so far.

[@handsburyhoneybees893]

@@vinofarm Mine is set up a little different. I have a third plywood then plexiglass and then another third plywood. So I can take the plexiglass out I can put a bucket where the plexiglass was but it’s the bucket still sits on plywood. I hope that makes sense. So I only use an 8th inch plexiglass

[@vinofarm]

@@handsburyhoneybees893 Got it! The full window is sweet, but I see how even 1/3 would be a game changer compared to solid wood.

[@handsburyhoneybees893]

I have them set up so I can add sugar bricks also . I’ve been doing them this way for 4 winters . 100 hives my average loss is 4 percent .( Louisville ky area)

[@michaelbohlsen2760]

Thank you Jim for all your hard work and your dedication to Beekeeping.

[@tc9459]

Jim!! So glad your back!! I can’t tell you how happy I am that your back in my beekeeping life, I definitely need some motivation in that part of my life. I’ve changed a lot of my thoughts on beekeeping and I feel like your one of the KZbin beekeepers that I enjoy most in thoughts and entertainment.

[@billb.2673]

Hey Jim. Great to see you in action again. We were out near Red Apple Farm and I realized it's been a while since I've seen one of your videos. Really missed the content and glad to see you're "ok". Kudos for recognizing the potential thermal bridge issue and creating the air pocket, effectively making a thermal break.

[@whoppingliar5100]

Fantastic stuff! Good to have you back.

[@cynvision]

OMG. I'm catching up with 2.0 video because we had one dropped of to our bee club for a package install. And it had the clear inner cover with the feeder hole! Have you got seekret agents spreading the Bee Barn to Georgia???!

[@sirnearlyheadlesnick]

As a Newbie to Bee Keeping, assisting a fellow Bee Keeper now going on my 3rd Season ( Im based In South Africa Season is +-(Nov -April). I Came across your Bee Barn Philosopy and after extensive deep dive of reading all the Theories, Your Bee Barn Resonates with me, and your Data proves its self Right. Looking forward to your Build Video Tutorials to commit to Building my own very first Bee Hive/ Barn in the Coming Weeks. Thank you for sharing your journey and look forwards to collecting my own observations to grow and share your philosophies & |Theories. 👍🏼

[@movieswithshannon]

Good to see ya back i have missed your content. sadly i am allergic to bees so this is as close as i can get to them without needing to go to the hospital. so thank you for that!

[@broodminder]

Very nice work Jim. I've used clear inner covers for years and I love being able to look in (and show off my bees) without disturbing them.

[@vinofarm]

It's the BEST thing!

[@jdvanallen2907]

I have been looking forward to this video since you learned about the condensation issue. I was about to start building my version back when you announced that this was going to be coming. I finally have time to sit down and watch your videos before building mine!

[@tjjastrem127]

Very cool Jim. Love how you are pushing the envelope and preconceived notions

[@JenniferTacbas]

Welcome back to our favorite bee keeper! So excited to see what’s new.

[@Enkrod]

You gotta respect the amount of work going into this, not just the bee barns, but the videos too, scripting, filming, cutting and production is a hassle. And Jim could easily just keep all his ideas and solutions to himself, maybe capitalize on it by selling educational videos or stuff like that, but he's obviously dedicated to sharing, open-sourcing the bee barns and advancing bee-keeping as a whole. And you can still capitalize on some of those things by offering convenience, don't want to build your own frames? Maybe buy them from Vino Farm. Need hints on where to buy some stuff? Vino Farm has affiliate links. That way you don't need to pay Jim, you can do everything he does and he'll tell you how in a number of well produced and easy to follow videos, but the option to make your life easier and send some money towards the person who shared his ideas is always there.

[@vinofarm]

This is very sweet, but just watching the videos is really awesome and always appreciated. Next best thing is SHARING them. I'm just happy you're all here! Thank you.

[@jasonnull2248]

Love it. I’m glued to my seat…

[@Robertsons4848]

From flow hive to a Langston replacement. This channel is someone going from an interest to doctoral level understanding of the bee keeping. Welcome back and I'm glad you are back!!

[@vinofarm]

Very sweet, but I’m nowhere near doctoral level understanding of bees. Just observing and following what they tell me.

[@trishapellis]

@@vinofarm I mean if you look at doctoral theses and what goes into them... it's observation, hypothesis, experimentation, and confirmation or rejection of the hypothesis. That's exactly what you're doing. The bees die in winter. The signs show that it may have been cold, may have been hunger, may have been both. The comments also suggested some possible causes at the time (like the cluster being so small they could only warm up a bit of honey above them to eat, they can't move sideways because of the cold). After a lot of thinking about our observations and possible hypotheses to draw from them, we follow the hypothesis that the cold is key and insulate the beehive - experimentation. Next winter, the bees survive better than ever - observation done, hypothesis confirmed, problem solved. (I also love the little tidbit that they plugged up the vent hole and you just went "Okay, no vent hole then") But now there's moisture. Hypothesis: the top cover isn't insulated enough, draws the cold in, and that causes condensation. Experiment: attach some foam to some of the nucs to see how well it survives the weather to make sure we can use it for the whole hive design. Observation: The foam is fine, so we build the new hive, and we put the bees through another winter... bees are better than ever. Observation complete, hypothesis confirmed, problem solved. How many times will you go through this process before accepting that what you're doing is definitely worth some kind of academic merit? 😉

[@vinofarm]

@@trishapellis Now that you mention it… ha ha! You make great points.

[@murat5103]

this project for cold area beekeeping..Nice indeed.

[@blaineparker8733]

Jim, phenomenal design, thanks for sharing, truly out of the wooden box frame of mind 🧐

[@tommullarkey7372]

As a double deep beekeeper in Western Mass, my back and I are really looking forward to your upcoming videos - i'm ready to build some Bee Barns. Congratulations and kudos for thinking outside the box and for being so generous with your thoughts and ideas.

[@Palanthon]

I look forward to seeing your results in spring! Nice job!

[@bethechange4173]

Not me with the biggest smile on my face the entire time I was watching this. We’ve so missed you the past 6 months!

[@spencerpeters8921]

Thank you for coming back!

[@vinofarm]

I never left! I've just been busy.

[@clarkkent7973]

Your bee barn design is so successful that you had to make them bigger/wider. Wow! You have come so far from the single deep box over winter. Great video!

[@66miller]

Awesome you are coming out with the videos in time to build for spring 2023. Thanks!

[@twistin140]

Very cool! i started watching you when you brought home the 2 hives from your neighbor. I knew then you cared for the bees and the things you did for them. This is just above and beyond. Are we going to see a bee dance again? Glad to have you back, you were missed! GO BALBOA!! (if you cant tell I love how that hive survives.)

[@denniszaderaka7553]

I used to have 5 hives in Wheaton Il This is a genius creation.

[@jakubhajduga8940]

BTW. In Polend "extra deep comb" are standard one. 😜 😅😁 But rest and design - amazing. :D

[@gregmau6]

Jim... Welcome back! You've been missed. Two comments/suggestions: 1) Bees chew on foam. Either coat/laminate the inside surfaces or know that you may likely need to rebuild/repair your boxes often 2) Many beekeepers are of the thought that the decision to swarm is often made by the colony in Oct/Nov of the previous year. Many of our club are preemptively splitting vs. being forced to do so reactively. Wally Shaw's "An Apiary Guide to Swarm Control" is highly recommended reading.

[@mike_carvalho]

1) Those look like Lyson polystyrene hive bodies that are the inner white boxes, not the polystyrene XPS we typically use under the outer cover.

[@crabmansteve6844]

This is literally revolutionary for beekeeping in long-wintering areas. I just need to come up with a better beetle solution for down here in the deep south

[@davidjiannotti1537]

I'm going horizonal after doing a cut out in a floor of an old farm house. The hive was perfect. Rectangle combs between the floor joists.

[@simonwinstanley1105]

Fantastic Jim!

[@MrBeachbums5]

okay..... I just gotta try this. I am not one to jump out of the normal, ordinary style of beekeeping, but I will try this just because it looks like fun. Thank you!

[@framcesmoore]

Great job thanks for sharing this I cant afford to buy new hives but its got me thinking how to insulate my hives in a better way it is going to be great seeing the other videos have a blessed day

[@melissabeers35]

I've been waiting what feels like forever for this video! So excited!

[@alexmussman6372]

Just a thought, for the glass top with condensation. If you had it very slightly angled to slope towards the wall with the foam spacer, any condensation you did get would roll down the acrylic on that outside wall with no bees and right down that side.

[@vinofarm]

The condensation is a feature, not a bug. The bees USE that water. The area directly over any cluster actually stays pretty dry because of their heat rising, but the edges of the plexi are wet. That's fine. Also, the old "moisture kills bees" thing is moot in these boxes because the temp in there is 60-90ºF all winter.

[@joshuapluim]

So Excited for the how-to series! Thank you, Jim, for all the work you've done. Well worth the wait :)

[@bmbirdsong]

30:48 Unexpected Mandalorian reference! Loved the video. Can't wait for more!

[@Littleraptorland]

I’m super excited for your future videos and how to. I’m so happy to have you back. I am only concerned about the bees chewing the foam as I know they might please enlighten me.

[@johnwest2156]

Hi Jim, I just came by your videos by chance and started watching them, I heard your ideas and frustrations about the old hives, and I watched you construct a new version, then finding some flaws corrected the design and I'm at the Bee Barn 2 version, I haven't yet seen any honey from your hives and am curious about the extraction method your going to use, wishing you well and thanks for the videos

[@vinofarm]

Regular Langstroth wooden supers go on top of the hives. I pull honey in late summer and condense down to the deep brood boxes. I extract with a Maxant extractor. Thanks for watching!

[@seeyouonthemountainbeekeeping]

You are the bee barn champ brother! Thank you for your great work!!

[@Jmoom12]

This is a great design and the data that you have collected from them are definitely showing that it's effective. My question, any you probably have already answered this question, but how do the hives do in warmer months where temps might get up into triple digits a few times during the summer months? Asking because I live in Idaho and feel like doing this with my hives will help

[@Diypics]

Can't waaaaait for the tutorials!

[@cyrusf.4039]

Exciting stuff. I can see this being adopted by the small scale or backyard beekeeper or the bee-curious. I think the hives would have to be pretty robust to with stand the bumping and grinding that commercial hives have to endure when they are loaded, unloaded and transported on trucks for hundreds of miles. It would be great if you could release some of the data you collected comparing the traditional hive with your bee barn. Never a dull moment. Looking forward to your next video.

[@vinofarm]

These are definitely not meant to be moved. Like... that's the point! I think you should find a spot for a hive and leave it there. Let the bees orient to it and NEVER move it.

[@traceydysert6096]

Cool hives!

[@davidfranklin5270]

Just rediscovering deep hives and hive frames from centuries old beekeepers. Lazutin, Ukrainian Lewicki, Dadant, Layens, Ciesielski, Galiano, Vaschenko, Dokuchaev, Dolinowski, Mochalkin all promoted deep frame hives for maximum brood health and wintering. You just haven't learned the last step. You still have supers. Deep frame horizontal hives eliminate lifting any heavy supers. Try some of Lazutin and Sharaskin's hive designs.

[@davyandashleywright6626]

Moisture in a hive is not a terrible thing itself. Condensation accumulating above the bees and falling back down on the cluster in winter is the real problem. I solved this by tilting my foam hives with the entrance at the lower end. This way the condensation accumulates and then runs down the front wall and out the entrance. Inhabe a platform on top of my hive stand that is attached with hinges and I simply put a 2x4 block of wood underneath one end of the platform to accomplish this. I am in Nova Scotia.

[@paulschaefer5241]

I want to add that you will catch a lot of flack about venting out excess moisture. when this happens point out that it's not moisture in the hive but condensation on the roof that drips down onto the bees that is the problem. stable temerature minimzes this too..

[@microtcpip]

Hello Jim, I really resonate with your insulated boxes perhaps because that is what I do to homes! I air seal and super insulate homes. This is my first year doing beekeeping, and so I only have one box set. I was researching building my own boxes, so I am so glad I found you now before I started building. I read that beekeeping chose to change the bottom tray from solid to screen because of mites. How do you deal with mites then? (my original thinking was using a screen bottom during warm season and then changing it to solid during Winter since I am located inn upstate NY). This is very exciting, thank you for your videos!!!

[@pastormickallen]

Thanks so much. Great design! Can’t wait for the next videos!

[@tedoneil7464]

Some job on the 2.0, I have heard a little vaseline on the joints could possibly help the seal out the weather on theses boxes

[@grantflippin7808]

I realized that poly hives were the future when a bushcrafter gave his bottle hive so much praise.

[@lowjkelvin9025]

Happy new year! Greetings from Singapore. Your barn/workshop looks beautiful.

[@Joseph-Colin-EXP]

Jim!!!!! Idea. There is tape like strips that have the temperature. You could place that like tape on inside just as a visual when you check I. The winter. I knownyou have the sensors. But looking is always the .out fun.

[@bobbywalz7360]

Great job on all the build series videos! I'm on board to try this new hive design. One question though. I have a new nuc coming this spring any suggestions on how to get the bees to move to the new frames? Thank you in advance to your insight.

[@skyhighactiondrones5453]

Fantastic video

[@evanwertz5913]

i love the concept. So can these foam hives support standard wooden deeps and mediums filled with brood and honey? I want to build a fully insulated hive body but still use all my wooden boxes for spring/summer/fall.

[@ryanstreckfuss9590]

It's funny. Ive also built my own "bee barns" but I don't have a channel. If I did I think we'd be going at it ;) There are a few things I disagree with you on. Maybe some day I'll start some beef hahah Glad you're back

[@emk7132]

I am soooo excited!! Can’t wait for the tutorial series!

[@601salsa]

Love it...... I wonder how this could be merged with a Swiss bee house. Question..... why not have the insulation foam the same depth all the way up even with a seperate box ontop?

[@777chris]

Excellent. So glad that you are healthy and well. Thanks for the explanations. I am looking forward to making some bee barns 2.0 and will really appreciate your "how to build" series.

[@budgiebreder]

Im sooo happy my 2nd fav youtuber is back!!! Your only 2nd coz you have been away too long!!!