Vintage Bronze Forestay & Shrouds brought to Life, S2-E78

Want to add some class to your classic sailboat? Consider reconditioning some vintage bronze turnbuckles. Boat Builder, Bob Emser, shows us how brought to life some vintage marine bronze part. Parts missing? Bob show how he created the missing parts.
“If you’re going to make it, make it beautiful.”
Bob Emser
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[@SootHead]

The method of cutting the slot was brilliant! Added it to my bag-o-tricks! Thanks!

[@TheArtofBoatBuilding]

Glad you liked it!

[@sampickett3843]

Related to that, I wanted to add that your work holding technique using a block of wood was genius!

[@perrymurphy4100]

Wonderful work. I love how you explain everything so explicitly. Thank you.

[@drop_dtuned6167]

The major milestone I was watching for was the trailer build. With this now reached, I’m buying the champagne.

[@robertgroves6186]

You are building an heirloom boat!! It is beautiful work of art. When you got to the round stock & cutting the slot / drilling the hole I wondered how you would get that perfect, never would I have thought of using the hole in the wood block method. I'll be borrowing this method in the future! Thanks

[@tbn28]

As others have mentioned, you will need a way to lock your turnbuckles. Fully closed bottle screws like yours typically have lock nuts, but they don’t usually work very well in practice. Most newer commercial bottle screws have slots that you can align with a hole in the threaded rod to fit a cotter pin or split ring. It’s interesting that the riggers you spoke with recommended the bottle screws, I haven’t worked professionally as a rigger for a number of years, but when I did I almost always preferred open turnbuckles because they hold their position better, and in a saltwater environment they have fewer corrosion issues. Two other things to consider: 1. I’d recommend using a true cotter pin for the final fit up (maybe this is already part of the plan) and tape over that. It will be more secure than the F-style pins you were using and the tape will protect your sails. 2. The aluminum nico press sleeve will act as a sacrificial anode, particularly in saltwater. I don’t know where you plan to sail the boat, but brass sleeves are the better option on boats in a saltwater environment. In practice you could get years out of the aluminum, but given the effort made for bronze everywhere else, the aluminum is a bit out of place, and will definitely corrode much more quickly the the rest of the components Nice work, and good luck finishing up!

[@ThisIsTheInternet]

I was curious about the press sleeve being aluminum, glad I was thinking on the right track!

[@nick.caffrey]

I think there is a hole in the end of the turnbuckle screws. Maybe locked with seizing wire?

[@sanderleeman6279]

I watched with amazement this video of how you made the missing part of the turnbuckle. However, I wonder how you are going to secure the turnbuckles. It has been my experience that turnbuckles will loosen themselves under tension if a locknut is not used and I don't see any locknuts on your turnbuckles

[@TonyHammitt]

Can you put nuts on the bolts and use them as a jam nut?

[@robhawthorne6892]

Getting closer to launch date, congratulations on a beautiful build.

[@plakor6133]

Could open turnbuckles like that be closed with a bit of plate and silver solder? The slot cutting procedure is really nifty. Thanks for the video. Beautifully done, as usual. Can't wait to see it in the water.

[@bishopkinlyside8477]

Hi, always love your videos and I love your trades skills and you’re not shy to show them to. Others keep up the good work from Australia

[@ricksimpson1543]

Typically shrouds and stays are built with 1x18 ss cable and are swaged with copper nicopress sleeves. The loads on your rig may be light enough for the 7x19 cable and aluminum sleeves to work just fine. Based on what I've seen so far, your level of detail is impeccable so I'm sure you've spec'd it all out. Love your videos!

[@TheArtofBoatBuilding]

You are correct it is a light rig. I'm using 7x19 ss cable and have ordered some copper nico sleeves as you and others have suggested. Thanks for watching!

[@scottwooster4102]

Amazing Bob! I hope that some people from younger generations than you and I learn how to do this type of work so the art is not lost.

[@davidc6510]

Bob those dingy old turnbuckles came out beautiful! What is going on with the upper hull planks on the starboard bow at 0:52? It looks like one came a bit loose and the caulking looks a bit rough? Did the dry winter cause some upset to the planking? Another great video Bob. Thanks for sharing!

[@MCsCreations]

Stunning pieces, Bob! Beautiful work! 😃 Looking forward to see the boat fully assembled! Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊

[@davidpeck3087]

As always I love your content and straightforward approach. I grew up in Greenfield, MA and remember when the Greenfield Tap and Die company was still in production. I have seen other old tools from Greenfield on other channels, and always enjoy the appreciation for their quality.

[@TheArtofBoatBuilding]

That's so cool. They are fantastic tools. Thanks for watching.

[@hudson8865]

Thank you very much.

[@TrapShooter68]

As much as I like brilliant polished bronze, I kind of liked the look of the oil rubbed bronze you started with. Just one old man's opinion. 😊

[@TheArtofBoatBuilding]

As I’m using a lot of newly cast bronze parts, I want all the bronze to start the same. I will allow the bronze to naturally patina. Thanks for watching!

[@hartwiggrunewaldt5102]

Hallo! Wonderful, to see the craftmanship of making the forestay and the shrouds. But there is a question: Why did you use a metal-cable and not a textile material like Dyneema? Dyneema can be spliced very good and you can make a "historical" cover like Bob did at the last episodes "Tally Ho".

[@barneygoogle4003]

I once allowed an overnight rainstorm to partially fill a small centerboard sailboat (made of chopped fiberglass and sitting on a trailer without full support along the keel) and it cracked the hull.

[@TheArtofBoatBuilding]

Sad to hear that. My trailer will have a 8” C channel to support the hull by the.ballast keel. The images I shared are of the beginning of the trailer build. That’s for watching!

[@JenkinsBoatWorks]

You’re doing great! Love the bronze!

[@TheArtofBoatBuilding]

Thanks Chuck!

[@rolanddunk5054]

Hi,an interesting video,Thank you.Roly🇬🇧

[@marcosrobertojuppa2107]

Obrigado pela explicação Bob.

[@markpalmer5311]

Fun to watch. Thanks for the great content!

[@michaelm3255]

Hi Bob. You may also find that your metal cutting saw blade has no or negative rake, unlike wood cutting blades. Great video!

[@TheArtofBoatBuilding]

Indeed Thanks for watching

[@kevinvey9474]

I agree lock nuts are a must.

[@porkchop955]

Very cleaver fixturing.

[@TheArtofBoatBuilding]

Thanks!

[@morbiouslenoir]

Thank you!

[@tomtruesdale6901]

Very nice work on those turnbuckles. Are you going to cover the bronze with a clear coat or leave to weather naturally?

[@TheArtofBoatBuilding]

I’ll let them get a natural patina. Thanks for watching!

[@dion9146]

Getting close! Personally, I’d use split rings for your Clevis pins instead of cotter pins. More finicky but less likely to get something caught on them.

[@MidnightMaker]

Are you going to do any splicing?

[@TheArtofBoatBuilding]

yes

[@evanschwartz3030]

Bob, Time to give serious thought about not using the aluminum nico press sleeves. Brass sleeves are a much better option especially in salt water environment. Obviously its your decision.

[@TheArtofBoatBuilding]

Only fresh water sailing in the Midwest

[@georgefrench1907]

👍

[@Redeye5978]

It's always Beautiful Bob but it seems like these videos go way too fast, the old saying time flies when you're having fun.