Vintage Muscle Car Tech- Free Power

[@joshuanegron3497]

As a broke power-hungry 17 year old with a ‘72 Chevy truck, I approve of this message.

[@ericheine2414]

That was a totally bitching 4 minute and 30 second video. Bite-size high-performance information that is easily digestible and applicable. Also it's like a mini vacation in the middle of my often arduous day. Thank you Uncle Tony.

[@fathaar]

This comment says it best.

[@ExtraKawaii]

I thought it was all in my head when id notice my car always feels best about 5-10 minutes after i start it. Now i know why lol.

[@CamaroAmx]

I always found it odd that my car always seem to run better right after I fill the tank even if I didn’t run it low prior (I usually fill up at 1/4-1/3 tank).

[@albertgaspar627]

@@CamaroAmx cooler gas from the underground tanks

[@vincej4319]

Uncle Tony please do not thank me. I thank you. You are one of the fathers of big block nitro configuration of fueling. For non electric controlled racing. I salute you sir. Wish I could shake your hand. You have ##### of brass. If I were pulled over for downhill racing in my 18 wheeler I'd be locked up. But it sure is fun. A couple times doing 90 troopers just stare. Thanks from Michigan.

[@brainstorm4207]

Thanks Unc. They don't teach you this kind of stuff where i went to school. After 15 years of studying engines its nice to know there is still a whole world of knowledge left for mew to learn. Us younger guys can get confused at how simple older engines can be LOL

[@UncleTonysGarage]

That's why we're here!

[@knight0334]

I used to pack those crossover ports with aluminum foil(and I mean well packed & tamped), then pour in molten aluminum to just below the intake mounting surface. Never had a problem. I've never had a need for a choke since I know how to use the accelerator pump on a carb until the engine warms up. ....so they always got removed. In colder climates the water crossover will eventually warm up the intake to make up for it - just takes a bit longer.

[@raphialhebert]

I am glad you touched on this; I've been telling people to do this for ages. Unless you're in really cold sub-zero areas, block that thing off. Especially with today's gasoline that has a lower boiling point and evaporates faster... GMs especially.

[@shaggydogg3786]

No school like old school .. “ROLL DOWN YOUR WINDOWS”!”

[@phuqubush]

*up

[@shaggydogg3786]

Rusty Chambers yeah! You are right! Lol

[@jackmehoffen4359]

hell yesss!!!

[@79tazman]

Those passages usually get clogged with Carbon after a while and block themselves of most of the heads I've pulled off are almost always closed off by the carbon build up and it's welded in there

[@AtZero138]

That's True... but now I feel dumb that I spent so much time cleaning it, Hahaha.. dang it... oh well, I'll weld it up...

[@bradroberts6447]

I used to clean this carbon out of the port. Now I know, leave it alone.

[@stevea8355]

I was going to tell you Tony don't ever worry about quitting smoking. Worry about breathing . Your on top of the world Tony you and Kathy get breathing lessons you'll do good.

[@woodywoodlstein9519]

This is a great example of a quick simple but valuable video right here. I didn’t know about this except in aviation all pilots know what carb heat is. And the effect it has. When to use it and when you absolutely should not use it. When carb heat is pulled on in a piston engine prop aircraft you instantly see a drop in rpm and thus torque. Less power is not a good thing in an airplane. You only use it to ensure that your carb doesn’t freeze up. Or if your losing power due to freeze up. Carb heat will fix it fast. It’s just astonishing how much power it takes out of the prop the instant you use it and as long as you have it on. So ya i can see how this could return significant HP to an engine that can !! Thx uncle.

[@ericshinault3628]

Thirty or so years ago my Dad did the top end on a 318. That crossover was full of nasty oily carbon. Guess what my job was. Lol

[@TheProchargedmopar]

In a recent Engine Masters episode the found the heated OR chilled manifold did very little to increase power because of the boundary layer. What really caused HP increase was COLD/Cooled fuel in the bowls which is the unknown effect of icing the intake. Remember those "Cool Cans" invented in the 50's? LEGIT hot rodding right there!!!!

[@knight0334]

A cooler intake keeps the fuel cooler too.

[@asdasd-ni8eg]

I wondered why that port was in my manifold wish i watch this before putting the motor back together

[@MrTheHillfolk]

My pops is the man,like you Tony. Him and his 2 brother's used to run 1/2mi and mile flattrack on motorcycles. You already know they built their own stuff back then, late 60s. Many times in my youth he would grab the head or cylinder on some junk bike I got (if it was a 2 stroke) and give it a nice cleanup. just cleaning up the crap and matching gaskets and manifolds. I always saw a gain evsrywhere, usually more noticeable in the mkd range. He made me the neighborhood star when I was 11. he ported the cylinder on my moped which alot of friends had the same model. They usually went 29 flat out. After the cleanup it went 37! Left those kids in the dust. Since then I'm hooked on every .0000001hp I can get for free thru hours and hours of labor. Become the air, and you will find power in any head port Confucius says. 😂

[@grizzlytabaccy]

Finally awake after that 9 hour stream? Lol

[@andya857]

@@charlesangell_bulmtl Hell, lets have a marathon...

[@robk358]

I literally just did this to my 68 charger this past weekend lol I added the gasket without the hole to block the heat rising. What perfect timing to reiterate something I actually did right! Thanks! :)

[@johnnywrench9669]

I can't believe how much I learn from this guy and I definitely know my shit but he's an Engine God .

[@johnwilburn]

You're hardcore. Woke up from the nap after the 8 1/2 hour livestream to post video in the same clothes. Goes to show that you really do live for this stuff.

[@gilbertfranklin1537]

Shower and change shirt every Sunday, haircut every Easter... 😊

[@shedred1967]

Thanks for mentioning the unnecessary need to heat the head filling that hole. I looked through the comments expecting someone to say you didn't heat the head. If repairing an iron head then its heated and properly prepared where welding. I have a set a friend welder did not heat up and they cracked like glass where he welded. Self taught and never did that again!

[@paintnamer6403]

How to make horsepower with a welder and a grinder. Awesome!

[@johnwilburn]

I use epoxy. It's a great mod.

[@rumrunner1756]

Hi Tony, thought you were going to tell us about the UTG stickers. Loved the live stream. You should try one while helping out with that slant six or anything in the garage. I appreciate your no b.s. approach to “stuff”. 👍👍☮️

[@79tazman]

Oh yeah those UTG stickers give you free power too the more your car has the faster it will go for sure ;)

[@kevinpatrick8788]

love my edelbrock air gap intake on my 340 . works great with a 750 holley

[@ziggassedup]

Nothing better than a crisp cool morning at WOT.

[@StoneColdStrah]

I love horsepower and torque...you got my attention

[@stevesadusky8634]

I love these old school tricks.. Thanks Uncle Tony! Can't wait until your next vid...

[@brocluno01]

Seen SoCal guys that ran blocked manifolds on the street (fine most days) have the carb ice up when they tried to go Skiing at Mammoth Mountain :D

[@johnrivinius4873]

Another mostly free thing is make a shield to keep the hot oil off the bottom of the intake too.. Great video !

[@edlinvintagecollectables3921]

ah old school power ,nothing like it,head snapping,pushed back into your seat,heart pounding power,great stuff,thumbs up

[@LosCadaver]

Also when I was 16, I had a 75 Corolla City. I tried everything to give that car enough goose to do 65mph without screaming like it was gonna die. It whistled. Going about 50mph it would whistle. Anywho. One of my idiot ideas almost worked. Started the car. Warmed it up. Took an almuminum funnel cake pan that I filled with water and froze, and stuck it around the snorkle to the air cleaner. Man I was dim.

[@shitbox7413]

Good to see you survived the livestream! 😄👍🏻

[@jacksheil3210]

Hey uncle T, I'm a mechanic of 3-4 years at independent shop. I mostly work on newer efi stuff. I gotta tell you I love these videos. Thank you keep the content coming. And a bigger thank you to uncle Cathie. Love this channel

[@rev.w.santos2764]

That's why your car runs better on cold rainy days. Thanks, Tony keep up the good work! I just got my UTG Tee shirt Great!

[@michaelovitch]

You also can use heat insulating gasket material between the intake and engine block also. Fiberglass is pretty good,like teflon, (PTFE)

[@gearhead1234]

Years ago when I was young and broke, I blocked off the crossover port with big balls of HD aluminum foil... Don't think I'd do that again now, but it did the job then! Cheers!

[@J.Ray1776]

Heat shield insulation under the intake manifold helps too. Make sure it stays on the bottom of the intake manifold & doesn't get into the engine is the trick.

[@josephtaverna1287]

Uncle Tone and Auntie Kathy never cease to amaze me great video Tony

[@Speed_Shed]

That was the first thing i got rid of on my 429 SCJ.

[@Imnotyourdoormat]

great trick uncle....proof-positive of the princial is after big daddy got his ocala-claws on smokeys internal engine dynomometer, he quickly understood why henry was king. confirmed suspiscions hed work for weeks to "free up" even just 1 horsepower. after all, free horses are free horses for sure. i made a few fuel cool-cans and bought the cadillac moroso-job back in the day. certain cars on certain days can really benefit from that "density-trick" too...isopropyl alcohol and dry-ice can really get it down there!!!...between -90 and -150 degrees....great tutorial as always T...but WTF is going on with the live feeder gig. we all had a lot of work in that mother just to be "vaped"...really did enjoy it tho...kutgw....what kinda 007 spy rules did you break tony...or is it really...komrade toneeski?...when you said you were more a leg-man, was that code for the borscht containing secret micro-film will be in vladavlastok as scheduled or what?..come to think of it...a dog-lovin gearheaded journalist from new york would be a clever disguise, good job on the accent too, thats incredible.

[@Imnotyourdoormat]

you gotta check out Hemi Belvedere Mod 1032 on youbube...for a good...."terror"....yikes!!!

[@CamaroAmx]

A lot of modern cars have coolant passages that run through the throttle body for the same reason. They just use the hot coolant instead of exhaust gases to do the same job.

[@iBackshift]

Blocking that off can cause your carburetor to ice up. And I mean frost builds on the outside of the carburetor and inside the venturies to the point the engine starts to flood from being too rich. I blocked off my manifold with Devcon and the 500cfm weber carb would ice up in the humid spring and fall months. I had to remove the Devcon to get the carb to stop icing up. But boy, in the summer time you can absolutely feel the difference/increase in power, bottom end to 4500 rpms on my crate 295hp chev.

[@rebelyell4679]

That crossover passage also warms the carb to help prevent iceing in humid weather. If you disable or remove the heat riser exhaust butterfly you equalize the left and right exhaust pressure and pretty much neutralize crossover flow.

[@UncleTonysGarage]

In theory, you're right. It does neutralize the flow, but it pulses none the less and the temp never drops within that passage

[@watzonda2b]

Hi Tony, the live feed was awesome. I caught the last few hours. Uncle Kathy said she had to edit a 1.5 hour video. I hope it's the 5.0 documentary, can't wait to see it. "Stick mans Garage" has a great prelude to it......I know it's gonna be awesome. When I started driving I bought '72 Duster with 13K miles in 1984 so Mopar is very near and dear but I appreciate to whole spectrum. I also have one of those 5.0L Mustangs

[@markforrestsr2242]

Thank you for your no nonsense approach!

[@kevinnobody3052]

Port and polish, CC the heads, port match intake to heads, match the rods, wristpins, and pistons, balance the crank. Yeah baby it's all about the machine work. And a good cam never hurts. 🤔😄

[@johntrudell8023]

Gotta LOVE the FREE POWER! Thanks UNC

[@chuckwhitson654]

Great video, I have a few differences with you, but 99% informative, good old school wrenchin'. Thanks again

[@albertgaspar627]

Also, you could consider plugging the manifold--if the change to cold weather starts bothers you, it could be easier to swap to another manifold than to swap heads :) But its also a good idea to invest in a V shaped lifter valley splash shield, it locates between the pushrods and the bottom of the intake. It keeps hot oil from splashing the underside of those runners during the entire engine running process. Someone used to make a square shaped plate that went between the carb and the plenum to shield heat coming up off the engine. someday i'll go a step further and mount a V plate in front of the carb, keep hot air blown over the engine from the radiator fan from reaching the carb. another source of "Free" power is reducing friction inside the engine. But it means when you lift off the gas pedal, there will be less "coast down" ability to slow the car with the friction of the piston rings and valvetrain if you really got efficient here. Smokey Yunick once postulated there was about 100 hp to be found in a 396 chevy if the friction could just be removed.

[@unfairfight3625]

On a motorcycle, dirtbikes or high performance atvs, a clean chain adjusted properly adds 2-3 hp.

[@Lovemycbx]

My FE 390 would vapor lock to the point where I'd practically crank the battery dead with the old cast heads and manifold due to the same crossover port. I've since went to cobra jet aluminum heads and port fuel injection but blocking off those ports is pretty much a crucial modification nowadays with the ethanol in modern fuels boiling off at a lower temp.

[@brianglade848]

Uncle Tony I wish you had a plan to block my dad's lawn mower from just annihilating the dog shit in our yard

[@creampapi19]

I love your videos you know everything about cars keep up the good work and videos

[@driveventures7445]

I was wondering about that,thanks for the tip tony!

[@2ATimothyHarper]

Great Video Tony. You and Steve's mean Mr. Mustang articles convinced me to buy a new 1989 5.0 Mustang when I was in the Navy. Before that I was a Mopar guy. 65 Barracuda, 63 Valiant and 1970 convertible Road Runner be fore the Navy. I want to build a 170 Slant six 1963 Valiant now.....can't find the 170 ci engines though. Keep up the awesome videos!!!!!

[@ik2476]

This must work well on a Pontiac. They have a natural air gap manifold from the factory already. Gotta remember this one!

[@ik2476]

Thanks!

[@jamest.5001]

I always block the crossover, no choke, a double pump Holley doesn't need much choke, felpro gaskets came with aluminum block offs and restrictors , that fit in the gasket, for SBC anyway, and some aluminum heads can be tapped to block, if they come with crossover,

[@kencohagen4967]

Sometimes it’s not that your making horsepower, it’s that you free’d up the horsepower you’re already making. One trick among drag racers is to put a switch to turn off the Alternator while you’re making a pass at the strip., but you need a high amperage alternator to charge the battery all the way back up after a pass.

[@joeford860]

What about JB weld,I used it once on the windshield wipers center plastic bushing on a 74 SE Charger because I couldn't find one. Thanks For the video.

[@UncleTonysGarage]

no bueno

[@VintageMoparnut]

On my small block mopar heads i blocked off the tiny ports on the exhaust side between the manifold and head by tapping the hole added red locktight and used an threaded allen head plug to plug off the hole and filled the rest of the port with locktight metal weld aka jb weld . On the cross over port on the head i used a thing gauge aluminum sheet metal cut out in the shape of the port slightly wider then the port its self and sealed both sides with 700 degree copper permatex gasket sealant.then layed the intake gasket over the block off plate after sealant is fully dried on the head side and no issues. I bought a good used edelbrock intake took it to the welding shop had the cross over ports welded up for 45 bucks. Also to help with issues from under the hood heat i will buy 2 factory insulator base gaskets and seal them together to make one gasket and buy longer bolts ect . It keeps the heat from percolating the gas in the carb and flooding it out on hot days

[@terriwhyte8064]

amazing tip! thanks uncle tony, you rock!

[@jessupblackmoore1600]

awesome video. herd about people doing this but never knew what exatly they were doing

[@TheGunfighter45acp]

You had me at free.

[@bradmitchell4936]

Enjoyed the livestream with you and Kathy the other night Another great example of building horses without throwing gobs of money at it for speed parts You da man tony! Roll up your windows 😉

[@kencohagen4967]

It's worth about 25 hp on a 440 with ported heads, using Mopar Performance porting templates, 2.19 and 1.81 in valves, 9.5-1 compression, aholley Street Dominator single plane intake, 0-3310 750 com Holley carb, a good set of headers with mid sized primaries, I think they're were 1 5/8", Mopar Perrformance windage tray which is cheap 15 to 20'hp, and block off the exhaust heat crossovers. Back in the late 80's when power was way way down in factory cars Hot Rod Magazine ran a test of every American car manufacturers Big Blocks. The 454 Chevy, 455 Buick, Olds and Pontiac, The 460 Ford and the tiny by comparison 440 Mopar. All the heads got similar parts, from cams to intakes to headers. The only differences were that there were no Edelbrock Performer heads for the Buick at the time so they used T/A Performance's entry level heads and the Chevy got Square Port Edelbrock heads instead of the comparable Oval Port Heads. Because of rocker arm ratios Chevy had the largest cam in the bunch. The rest of the field used Comparible cams fromComp Cams. All got the same carb. When dyno day came around the highest hp enginewas the Buick, then the Mopar and then the Chevy followed by the Ford and Pontic with Olds bringing up the rear. The 440 was down 21 hp and when they were contacted by Mopar the added the exhast heat crossovers and the motor picked up 21 hp. They also left the windage tray out but never installed it later. That put the 440 up just a few ho shy of the Buick, which is a good motor, but I think the T/A heads made the difference. Hot Rod in there typical fashion did a separate article complaining that they had to use a dual plane like every one else and stuck a single plane on it and a larger cam because they needed on to realize the potential of the heads that were bigger than everyone else's to begin with and narrowly beat the Buick and Mopar. If your building a street strip motor and you don't see super cold winter days and drive the care only in the warmer times of the year, block the crossovers! Have fun ,

[@kingerikthegreatest.ofall.7860]

Did uncle Kathy recover from the super long live stream?

[@danohstoolbox]

great info tony u got to love free power

[@davedavis775]

I drove my 77 Trans Am with it's 69 Ram Air III with no heat riser and no choke on a Holley 800 double pumper everyday. Including cold mid Atlantic winter weather. Feathering the throttle until it warmed up seldom did I have to restart. At one time I had installed a choke cable but it was far more trouble than it was worth so I did away with it including the butterfly on the carb.

[@jameshoneyc]

Thanks Tony....I was a little leary about welding it...

[@NebukedNezzer]

in minnesota we needed the carb heat for the winter. but, many times the "heat riser valve" would be stuck shut with rust on the shaft. a bit of water and working it would free it up. I like free horsepower but still need drivability on a daily driver.

[@fins59]

You just learned me something new Unky Tone.

[@Impactjunky]

Thanks for the tip Uncle Tony! I've already put this one to good use though, the air gap intake on my 360 stays so cold it develops condensation on it as I drive. Even after a 4 hour straight drive on the power tour it was still ice cold and covered with sweat at the next stop!

[@mattbauckman9907]

This also helps combat vapor lock issues.

[@MrRoach-yo3mz]

and the secret COLD AIR shot under the intake works well too

[@wheels-n-tires1846]

Ahh another lo/no buck fav.... Done it many times!!!👍👍

[@fredschmidt6802]

That is some slick stuff pretty neat 👌

[@NebukedNezzer]

here is where the plastic manifold on my 6L LQ4 really helps. plastic does not transfer heat to the incoming air like metal. cheap but more power.

[@Impactjunky]

@NebukedNezzer Aluminum actually dissipates heat much faster than plastic, also not having the fuel atomized throughout the whole length of the intake runners like it would if it had a carb on top means your intakes internal temps are close to 100 degrees while the intake temp of a carbureted engine with an aluminum air gap intake is usually just above freezing. Partially thanks to the oversized 6 pack scoop, my carb and aluminum air gap intake on my Roadrunner clone stays so cold that it develops condensation on it as I drive. You can drive it for four hours straight, stop and pop the hood and the carb and intake will be ice cold and covered in massive beads of water.

[@NebukedNezzer]

@@Impactjunky you just counteracted yourself. yes metal transfers heat better than plastic resulting in less power.

[@Impactjunky]

@NebukedNezzer I think you meant to say I contradicted myself? Yes aluminum does radiate/dissipate or "transfer" heat to the air better resulting in cooler intake temps and more power. Do you not understand the concepts of conduction and radiation? Metals are a "conduit" that allow energy like heat, electricity etcetera to transfer through them, plastic does not. Plastic resists conduction better but does not radiate/dissipate nearly as efficiently which means it insulates and actually holds in the heat conducted from a motor, whereas aluminum effectively radiates/dissipates the heat that it conducts through the air passing over it. The whole point of the old school finned aluminum valve covers was to lower engine temps based on this knowledge. Also I've never seen any plastic intakes get so cold they developed condensation from normal driving conditions.

[@NebukedNezzer]

@@Impactjunky no one makes a fool of you

[@Impactjunky]

@@NebukedNezzer I'm partially retarded

[@consciouscool]

Index your spark plugs. Make sure the electrode is between the intake and exhaust valves this way the spark will go where it should not grounding on your valves.

[@InvincibleExtremes]

Spot on. That's why I block this off on all my carbed cars.

[@robertclymer6948]

I run a edelbrock performer rpm that has the heat crossover ports. My new ford 460 intake gaskets, Fel Pro #1230 cover the head and manifold ports. They are fiber and will burn through eventually. I opened that crossover port in the gaskets and will use a "less then .020 thick flat piece of stainless, ultra black sealent around them and put the manifold back on and torque to spec. .015-.020 thickness will and ultra black sealent will prevent any air leaks. The flat thin piece of stainless goes over the heat crossover head port under the gasket. I have an electric choak so don't need that heat into my manifold. Thanks for sharing Tony. Was wondering if JB Weld would have worked for you instead of welding?

[@judgejury3230]

Can you do a video on why spark plug gaps are important? Like running wrong gaps, what could happen, and correct gaps what happens. Thanks a big fan!

[@jhendren0001]

Hell yeah this is an awesome tip iv done this on a few different vehicles and yes sir your right on a few it is a huge difference but others not as much.. but every little bit helps...

[@wildracoon666]

U have educated me yet again great vid can't believe you had anger insures, may be there is hope for me respect to uncle Cathy 🤘

[@davetrenholm7291]

Free power, like flipping the lid on the air cleaner and Cutting the cats off! At the track, pull the belts off the engine accessory drives, including the water pump!.

[@christophersoto6083]

Sweet Video!!! Love this type of info!!! Keep it up Uncle!!

[@dukecraig2402]

3:20, where did you find a welding hood that fit a seeing eye dog?

[@michaelmarks5012]

Looks like Ray Charles welded that with his feet.

[@justaguy2738]

Michael Marks 😂😂😂😂

[@garageqf]

it's fluxcore, who cares anyway?

[@dukecraig2402]

@@garageqf Certainly not that seeing eye dog.

[@levijones1874]

. So before a race warm up the race machine. Open the hood. cool the engine bay but at the same time the coolent and oil and parts are warmed up. . Now you have a fill engine bay but warmed up ready to go motor. Try and get it started and off the line ASAP.

[@Tech-NO-City]

Hey a trick to getting those harbor freight mig welders to work better. Throw the mig wire that it comes with in the trash and get some Lincoln flux core from homedepo. Use some Mig nozzle gel(dip the tip its basically extra flux) it's night and day difference Tony.

[@robertwyman1497]

Definitely Lincoln flux core. Keep it from rusting as well. Trash the outer layer that has spots of rust.

[@RobertPerrigoOkiechopper]

I used to do it in the late 60's.

[@driveventures7445]

I mainly mess with old small block chevys,they are very similar in design*

[@UncleTonysGarage]

Exact same design

[@chriscole3423]

Blocking off the pre heat is a very popular modification on old Vw's…..

[@ScottsSpeedShop]

Great tip my friend

[@chrisfreemesser5707]

This reminds me of a somewhat related question rattling around in my brain: in the 70s when engines were "detuned" for emissions and fuel economy, how did they do that and can it be "reversed" to increase horsepower?

[@UncleTonysGarage]

That's a pretty involved question...can't give a cut and dry answer here, but it will make a good video. Thanks!

[@scottwatson1043]

This guys an engine enclopedia.

[@UsefulEntertainment]

never thought of welding them closed, i have seen people pour melted aluminum in them though.

[@MrTheHillfolk]

Haha a buddy tried soda can cutouts to stick on the gaskets in his 400 poncho...lasted about 30 seconds 🤣

[@brettjohnson8009]

Useful Entertainment or lead

[@av8tor261]

The heat cross over system was only used for a cold engines back in the day. Once the heat riser valve opens the hot exhaust gas is greatly reduced to the intake manifold, if not stopped. It's an important system needed on a "stock" engine or #'s engine. As for a 25 HP gain I have to question that and see dyno proof.

[@UncleTonysGarage]

The riser forces most of the exhaust through that passage, but it never stops the flow, and the temp of the plenum is never allowed to drop

[@andrethepolock2569]

yes and cool can?? filled with ice what do u think?? beside it makes a dandy spot to hold your favorite beverage

[@SirSloop1919]

5.0L fox bodies have a heated throttle body to prevent icing in the upper intake. Put a bypass hose on the lower intake to prevent this. And of course... delete the dang EGR.

[@adamturner2507]

My buddy on his 350 chevy dirt track motor used a soda can and rtv

[@vicO1323]

Never heard that one before. Interesting.

[@msh6865]

UTG, you might do a short video on home made cool cans sometime. It's old a drag racing trick I know you are aware of. Cheap way to keep the fuel cool on a hot day ( vapor lock remedy too!) plus, good for a few hp's. 👍