Vintage "Orange" RC10 with RPM Worlds Conversion, rear setup update, 04/26/17

[@ddjj868]

I used a flanged bearing on the inside and standard bearing on the outside and some shims

[@shanec8812]

I had a vintage fx10 buggy that the dogbones would constantly pop out. I hated that car until I added heat shrink tubing around the cup and dogbone. Never had an issue after that. This trick might add some extra protection for you while you race . Also keeps dirt from getting in there.

[@doctormosfet]

I have a Tamiya Striker (my first r/c car) that's the same as the FX10, so I know exactly what you're talking about ;)

[@BJETNT]

That's a good idea and cheaper then the answer I used! I use telescoping drive shaft instead of CVS. Horizon makes that conversion for the rc10. Very old if you can find them but they work great

[@bobtierney6946]

try a slice of fuel line tubing inside the dog bone cups to centralize the dog bone.

[@MrColdwatercanyon]

Sweet ! I got a mint gold pan on a shelf

[@JoeTheBlacksmith13]

4:16 “with the Dynotech Klein arms, you use b4 cvds with the rc10gt carrier” THANKS for that!

[@BJETNT]

Try the Horizon telescoping drive shaft conversion! It fixed that problem with the dog bones and I even use the RPM arms with it. The ones that came with tend to drag too low! I don't know if you can find one of those conversions nowadays but I did. I still have one in the original bag from 30 years ago. It runs pretty smooth it eliminates that problem and it does not wear out the outdrives either. I've got titanium ones and it just goes right in with a screw..

[@doctormosfet]

Well I already have the Kyosho mod in there and it works perfectly fine. No need for me to hunt down unicorn teeth for this.

[@chevyrc3623]

thats preety cool that you can take another manufactor to makes things work and make it even better

[@djc8541]

I used the B44 centre drive shaft on my worlds re release, they are a couple of mm longer and work a treat

[@doctormosfet]

Yes, on the "standard" RC10, that is the correct dogbone to use. The general assumption with this RPM conversion is that you use the same exact dogbone length, since I have no record of RPM recommending anything different. However, the arm length and placement doesn't permit that much droop with those dogbone lengths, so you have to use something larger here if you want more rear travel.

[@bradhogan2461]

So thats the B44 centre drive shaft as a pair, The B4 axles and the GT hubs! Is that all I need? (Its on an original Gold Pan)

[@bradhogan2461]

with the RPM rear arms.

[@dazkillinger1397]

Cut a few small antenna rubber ends. & They will no longer have this issue popping out your diffs carriers and bones while still having play, id go smaller and do both there carriers and you will be able to still keep your current assembly and components. happy laps friends. :) or you can ask some other retros older enthusiasts on what bones your might be using being how older your EE is lol mine been old. simple and great Advice man. thanx

[@johnhall1614]

Awesome thanks for sharing

[@The_Absurdistt]

Excellent info. Thank you for sharing. Where did you find the undertray/chassis protector?

[@doctormosfet]

Pretty sure the undertray was from Team Bluegroove.

[@rcsnapon2132]

Nice rc what did you paint the pan with the orange looks really nice?

[@doctormosfet]

That's anodized. One of the original colors the tub chassis was offered in as an option part.

[@rcsnapon2132]

Really I never seen that before but you know more than I do anyway looks so cool

[@bamabiker750]

Great info!! I have always had the same problem with my cars. It's a shame that AE did make their CV bones just a couple mm's longer. BTW - congrat's on the new family addition. Did you sell your Nix91?

[@doctormosfet]

Thanks. I haven't sold the Nix91 yet, but it's on its way out.

[@jondelrosario8404]

Sir what slipper clutch do you use?

[@doctormosfet]

This one has a VTS slipper.

[@jondelrosario8404]

@@doctormosfet thank you sir

[@LUCKYDRAGSTA]

The real RPM worlds car was full plastic chassis.

[@doctormosfet]

Yes, but they also made a long arm kit for the aluminum tub chassis. That's what this buggy has.

[@seasonvett]

Im digging this option but will it work on stock arms. And what brand rim and tires do you use

[@doctormosfet]

The stock arms are shorter and so this will not work with them. This particular setup was not designed to switch to modern hex rims, but instead to keep the older dished rims while allowing me to run more rear droop without the dogbones popping out.

[@ddjj868]

I could use them cvd's you want to sell them..