GET MORE POWER FROM YOUR 2 STROKE ENGINES!

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

If this video helped you, please consider clicking on the THANKS button above to support my channel 🙌 Don’t miss this essential step when rebuilding your engines! I hope you enjoy my next video “Avoid This Mistake! It’ll Destroy Your Engine!” kzbin.info/www/bejne/d4G2Z41qh6Z4idk

[@OliverofAllTrades]

Nice video. I left the toxic community of Arboristsite the other day.

[@patrickvennard838]

Thanks for sharing your two-stroke mix, I use Motul Oil generally at 40:1 as Sabre is impossible to get in the UK.

[@REDLINERUNNER]

Oh, you touched the ground few times, there goes the chain for sharpening... And that exhaust looks like ready to fall apart.. XD

[@dennisyoung4631]

Don’t much care for anything by AMxxxx. I’m inclined toward ample oil, though - at least 32 to 1. Otherwise, I’m really glad to see the parts I did do in the past confirmed, and learned about pressure-testing carbs and turning the shaft of the engine while testing. Thanks. Will keep this in mind for setting up the Zenoah.

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

There are some great and not so great people on there lol

[@leeweber9565]

These are some of the best made videos out there

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

Thanks so much Lee, I really appreciate it :)

[@Sensei948]

@@VintageEngineRepairs 33:1 oil mix is ok ?

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

@Sensei948 yep!

[@juslookinism]

100% I am a picky and over educated. I have watched too many two stroke videos here on you tube. You Tube is not where I got my ICE education, unless you consider them to be how not to videos. Finally, after years now, I finally watched a rebuild video that was done, and explained totally correct. You, Sir, are a Pro! All I can say is too much oil on a rebuild can cause hydro lock upon first start, and someone who is a beginner can go overboard, but I know what you meant.

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

Thanks for the kind words! Yes my figure of speech could be taken literally and you will eventually get to a point where you hydrolock the engine 🤣 I’m glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for watching and commenting!

[@waynestefinashen239]

I think to date one of your best videos yet being full of good content well filmed, edited and great audio. The hair cut is not bad either Tom!

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

Thanks Wayne! Glad you enjoyed it! It’s hot here in OZ, need to go balled every summer to cope 🤣

[@patrickvennard838]

Another excellent and clear video, your close up shots are very good thanks for the videos I am learning a lot.

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

You’re very welcome! I’m glad you enjoy my content!

[@pwleppa]

Excellent video. You really know what you are talking about. Thanks for posting.

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

Thanks for the kind words :)

[@beingthere597]

Excellent information and camera work!

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

Thank you!!

[@treecycle4631]

Another clearly videoed and explained tutorial. I see a few new toys in this one to assist in the reassembly. I'm a bit of a tool junkie so enjoy seeing them. I hope your day job keeps you out of all that heat at the moment. We have only been up to 40°C once so far and I'm glad.

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

Thanks for the kind words :) Where are you based?

[@treecycle4631]

@@VintageEngineRepairs Victoria

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

@treecycle4631 ahh miles away, that’s a shame!

[@chrischiampo7647]

Forgot Just 1 Thing Install The Cylinder Base Gasket Before Installing The Piston on The Connecting Rod 😀😀😊 Excellent Detailed Video Thank You 😀👍🏼

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

Yeah haha, on the 660 if you get that wrong you’ll be retracing your steps 🤣

[@KensSmallEngineRepair]

Fantastic clear video, especially the close ups. Nice job Tom!

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

Thanks Ken!

[@SomeGuysSawShop]

Great video man, it’s great to see more people showing how to rebuild a chainsaw, still wired to see one go together stock with no port work or at least piston work. You’re also the first person I’ve seen mention the actual torque for the flywheel. Seriously though great video and tons of great info for people starting to work on their own saws

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

Thanks for the kind words! Glad you enjoyed it!!

[@anthonyspadafora1384]

Thanks!

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

Thank you! :)

[@jefftheaussie2225]

Turned out to be a good saw. Looked like that carby could have been a new one. Good work Tom.

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

Thanks mate, yeah I never really gave it that much thought, but maybe!!

[@rickthelian2215]

Well explained as usual Tom😊 Sounds spot on Tom😊

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

Thank you Rick!

[@justbaumwolle1105]

Very good video but i would do the crank bearings and the needle bearing to if the chainsaw is almost completly taken apart

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

Yes :) i’ve done a video on that too! It is on my channel a couple videos back :)

[@barryewalt3250]

Great video as always Tom..

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

Thank you Barry!

[@anthonyspadafora1384]

Could you list the circlip tool you used and the size of the circlip on the 660. Thank you

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

I brought it from stihl directly :) I believe it’s a 12mm 👍

[@TheTronder007]

My dad has a MS391 which he used in a saw mill rig and it "blew up" (he thought he had overloaded it) as it the cost of having it rebuilt at a authorized Stihl dealers workshop was about or slight above 2/3 of the price of a new saw, he bought another one and that the brand new saw blew up after 10-15 minutes of use... It was only then it dawned on us that i was the gas, my dad had bought some pre-mixed two stroke gas at a reputable store for once even though he usually mixes his own gas.. Turned out the gas had an insufficient amount of oil in it.. Even though I had no experience with this, my dad thought I could give it a look.. I managed to find a service manual, and found ordered a aftermarket piston/cylinder kit, and managed to tear it down and rebuild it and it came roaring back to life.. I then ordered a piston/cylinder kit for the older saw, for the older saw I also replaced the crank seals ans the wristpin bearing.. I found it a verry rewarding experience.. before I gave it a try, I really didn't think I had it in me. but with som common sense, a service manual and a little KZbin I pulled it off 🙂

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

Well done mate and thanks for sharing! It’s empowering to challenge and over come situations like this! For a saw mill, run good oil at 25:1. The 391 isn’t a good choice for a mill honestly. Something that has higher torque, lower rpm and more cc’s is the best way to go :) older 90cc + range!

[@TheTronder007]

@@VintageEngineRepairs You know a lot more about stuff like this than me or my dad so cant really say that you are wrong about the MS391 for a mill, but for my dad I think it came down to a cost/use consideration.. and used 90+ cc chainsaws are really hard to come by here in Norway in any condition.. The mill rig dos not really see a lot of use, so I think my dad feels that i works for him, But it's very good to know what to look for in a saw if needs should change 🙂 About something like this is empowering, I'd say you are spot on 🙂 after this I have had the courage to try and fix more things on our power equipment. I built up a new mower deck for our Husqvarna LT151 lawn tractor.. New deck-shell pan, spindles, and idler pulleys,, removed rust and painted hardware that was reusable.. sorted a leaky valve cover gasket, and serviced/rebuilt the transmission brake..

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

@@jayytee8062 you can join arboristsite or ope forum and ask people on there for chainsaw manuals 👍

[@Arturas1244]

sry, but wrong! first thing chainsaw blew cause it was overheated on mill, basically every person who does this blows engine casue dont know how to mill. chainsaw is air cooled machine which means after one pass you need to cool it off and sharpen chain, what you can see in asia guy can mill, but it does with his own hands not with some tools he simply wallks and cuts from top down not to side, on top of it second guy coming and spraying bar with oil non stop they are not doing non stop full trotle. its cut go cut go. if you go long non stop cut you must rest chainsaw as there is no air moving like in car, even car will have fans chainsw dont. next why your dad blew abother chainsaw is even more simple. than you buy new you must not work on big trees only small branches so what engine would take its place same goes for cars bikes which are new they will say drive only slow certain speeds certain lengh on odometer after you can go full go.and going on mill is death especially if its new

[@Big_Johns]

Nice job Tom, where did you get that air gap tool at? 👍

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

Hey mate, it’s a stihl tool, I use it on every coil lol. Here in the part number for you. 0000 890 6401

[@Big_Johns]

Thanks Tom

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

@Big_Johns my pleasure mate

[@GuysPlayingWithTools]

As always, great vid. 👍

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

Thanks Bill!

[@litewatefitr]

What a great channel....thank you!

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

Thank you! I appreciate it :)

[@ItsFishh]

Been waiting!!

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

Hahaha thanks for being so patient!

[@brentfrank7012]

I’m curious why you didn’t hone the cylinder? I would never miss that opportunity while it’s all pulled apart. Great video.

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

Thanks Brent! These cylinders are nakisil and aren’t designed to be honed like cast bores for example. The Nikasil plating is very thin, very hard. A scrub with scotchbrite is ideal. Some people do hone them with silicone carbide ball hones, but I’m of the opinion that in doing so you leave such a sharp and aggressive surface you’ll actually detrimentally affect the longevity of the rings. This saw even with old used rings is at 165 psi after 8 tanks. It’s going strong :) like anything, you ask 10 people you’ll get 10 different answers, but I can only go off what I have experienced and for Nikasil plated cylinders, my advise is to avoid it. It’s not beneficial, it can lead to accelerated ring wear and the plating is so so thin you could damage it (or chip it!) thanks for watching!

[@damnwereinatightspot]

@@VintageEngineRepairs That is a great detailed response re: Nikasil plating, Mr. Tom.

[@almclean4835]

Nice one Tom

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

Thank you Al :)

[@hubby-tubadventures01]

Tom, i found your channel 2 days ago (subbed) and i've immersed myself in it. (my Amazon basket will upset the Mrs). I have been scouring the web for advice with regards to a stihl hs82t hedge trimmer that is leaking fuel from the exhaust. It is not a blocked screen / spark arrestor as it doesn't have one. I could take this to a repair shop but have been tinkering with the 2 stroke stuff for the last year or so and get a lot of joy out of getting them running again. Where would you start your diagnosis with this issue? I have ordered a new carb and its a 2016 model with (genuinely) little use. Any help greatly appreciated.

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

I have to ask why subbed was written and crossed out 🤣🤣🤣 change of mind? Anyway, leaking a bunch of fuel out of the exhaust is a sign of a flooded engine. If could be that you had the choke on too long, or alternatively (and I just repaired this fault on a customers machine) the metering diaphragm was so stiff that it was stuck in its down position holding the needle open and trying to start it just caused constant flooding. Hope this helps!

[@hubby-tubadventures01]

@@VintageEngineRepairsSeems hyphons either side of the word crosses it out. Rectified and still subbed 🙂. The black oily leak is constant and I see the spray hitting the cutting bars. it "fine sprays" out about 5 inches. the machine starts every time then bogs down and eventually cuts out. I looked at the diaphragm yesterday and there was a white residue on the metering side. I cleaned that off and it still seemed very flexible to me but the fault continues. I've ordered a new carb and will fit it, but was thinking there could be other issues. I'll keep you posted.

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

@@hubby-tubadventures01 or maybe just tuned way too rich :) try leaning it out !

[@johndoe-ko8nu]

i ran into something interesting with a Husqvarna 2100cd totally the opposite of the norm arrow and pins on the exhaust side.

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

Yeah it’s good to know that it’s actually designed like that sometimes :) you’re not going crazy haha

[@doglegjake6788]

Excellent video

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

Thank you!

[@hu13ix83]

Hello, i rebuilt an ms250 which is not used like 6-7 years Replaced every chain related thing it got a cheap cylinder kit and carburetor kit,oil sealent didn't replaced the bearing which has it some black thing on it and the crankshaft bearing was rusty Its start running hot and cold, has idle, but when i try to cut its bogs down and black burned oil comes between the muffler and the engine, tried rich and lean side but almost same little help where to start ?

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

Hey, sounds like it’s running too rich at full throttle if that’s the case, but also, it will take a lot of use to burn that excess oil up! So don’t be surprised if it’s tuned correctly that it still emits spooge! 2 strokes need to be run and loaded, if not you’ll get spooge

[@tonykourounblis1854]

Thanks to your advice I’m in the dog house,got caught washing the chainsaw in the kitchen sink thanks a lot

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

Hahaha, it will be more peaceful in the doghouse, I am known for extended stays there, it’s become my quiet place 🤣

[@HUNTSMARTFASTHARD]

Get the heck out...... Circlip install tool?? PN# please Tom. Cheers.

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

LOL! This is the 12mm tool I used in the video haha 5910 890 2212

[@steveriggenbach90]

A lot of great info about tools and procedures.

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

@@steveriggenbach90 thanks!

[@Wanous-hv7zo]

Put a new piston in it

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

No, the piston is well within spec.