Create custom boxes easily for your laser - Using Boxes.PY

[@pastorbrianroy]

Great job and very useful. Appreciate all that you and clack do for promoting laser projects.

[@Vintauri]

My pleasure! Thanks for watching!

[@hubhouben255]

i tried it allready and I have to make a copliment yo you for the explaining

[@jeffteeter501]

Just watched a similar video by 'Maker Space 307' and I really appreciate the quality of your videos even more.

[@BruceAUlrich]

Thanks for walking us through this! I think I'll try it.

[@Vintauri]

Thanks for checking it out! Maybe I'll see ya this week while you're up in sunny Minnesota! :D

[@pettigrewwoodworks]

Thanks for this. Just purchase a new 20W laser so will definitely give boxes a try.

[@Vintauri]

Awesome! A 20w is the sweet spot between cutting power and detailed engraving. Have fun working with the boxes!

[@techcraftstudios2405]

This is EXACTLY what I have been hunting for! Thank you so much for this awesome and informative video!

[@shadowfox929]

Love your channel. You have some of the greatest videos on lasers. Since I am new to the world of laser engravers I really appreciate your help. My laser is the Xtool S1. Thanks for sharing.

[@Vintauri]

Awesome, thank you! I hope to have some xTool S1 specific content soon.

[@omaroskeno3314]

Man this video came in clutch I was thinking yesterday how to make a box for my camera thanks alot for the video

[@Vintauri]

Glad I could help! There is a tool on that page to help with making dividers if you find that useful as well.

[@frankb.3556]

Excellent video! Have been buying cut files on Etsy. I'm going to try making my own now. Thanks!

[@Vintauri]

Etsy files are a great way to start out or to get something complex, but tools like this can really help you get a base to build from for free! I hope it works out well for you!

[@nathanwolf5547]

A great video, thanks.

[@Vintauri]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@mncustom-made-barblafond6825]

Awesome website! Thanks so much for sharing!

[@Vintauri]

Happy to share! It's tools like this that help people make better use of their lasers.

[@yourguidtoeverything2.052]

Wow, coincidental, I also made the same sliding drawer box. I also laser cut the box but it was much smaller and it had a christmas tree on it and made two holes. It was for a school project. It was intended for a laser circuit to go inside and out the holes but... it was too small.

[@djmoosecom]

Really great info!

[@Vintauri]

Thanks for watching!

[@fullcircleretrospective9913]

Appreciate the video, as always.

[@mawmann]

Thank you for great and informative video!

[@Vintauri]

Glad it was helpful!

[@garylinn7747]

Great Video!! You always seem to answer any of my questions without even asking. I don't recall you noting the material from Lowes that you used. Thanks again!!

[@Vintauri]

I'm glad they are useful! I believe it's called 5mm Revolution ply at Lowes. www.lowes.com/pd/RevolutionPly-5mm-Poplar-Plywood-Application-as-4-x-8/50121135

[@garylinn7747]

@@Vintauri Wonderful! Thanks for your quick reply. I could see that it looked like "plywood" but with only one center layer and 2 face layers. I have read that lasering regular plywood was problematic for a number of reasons. Price is right and perfect for testing and for boxes as you demonstrated. Just a hobbyist. Have a couple of diode lasers but waiting for an XTool P2 C02. You're right about preferring not to order from a wood warehouse or sawmill. I get my hardwood from a Carolina sawmill and the prices are okay but you're somewhat limited as to size and what's available. Gary

[@mrgrinch61]

sweet

[@Vintauri]

Thank you!

[@chucklenz9011]

Nice and useful video! Now if I could just get lightburn to acknowledge that I forgot my password and let me purchase Lightburn I could be off and running and put this to good use.

[@hazepheno925]

Just watched a few of your laser engraver videos today. You provide great info. I just ordered an Ortur LM3. Plan to use it to etch Knives that I make. Also looking forward to making custom wood boxes and engraving on Leather sheaths. 10:38 I see you play Deep Rock Galactic. I've been playing for about 2.5 years (handle: Haze Pheno)

[@Vintauri]

Glad to hear the videos are useful! I do play some games with my boys and Deep Rock Galactic is one they enjoy.

[@pazzy4501]

Great job, Is there any better software that can provide extensive customizations, such as adding dimensions and annotations directly onto the draft instead of leaving it blank like here, and even creating additional holes in our craft if necessary? Keep up the good work 👍

[@Vintauri]

You could try Gravini as an alternate option. I need to play with that one some more and maybe put out a similar video with it. www.gravini.cz/en/

[@reyantonio578]

Thank you for your vedeo , I hope you could help me in the future

[@stvcolwill]

when I click generate, there are gaps in the lines generally at the corners and in the middle of the no-tab edge. I tried different formats as well and opened all of them and the gaps are there. Is this happening to others?

[@Vintauri]

The only oddity I've run into is when I have the burn offset or Kerf set incorrectly, and then my inside corners generate strange shapes. I've sometimes have had to restart the webpage with clean numbers and have it regenerate at that point.

[@user-fi5nb3pu5e]

I sub'd and liked

[@Vintauri]

Thank you!

[@storytellerHD]

Thanks for sharing. I realize that this is an old post but it seems you're still responding. There are a lot of online and offline box/container generators our there in the wild. I have a Laser Cutter (Epilog Fusion Pro) and a CNC (Shop Saber Pro 408). I've observed that processes like what you've described here are for very, very basic designs. Do you or anyone whose reading this know of an auto generator that will do a container/box which has a longer and wider opening end than the closed end. Think of a simple garbage bin sitting by your desk or in the laundry. Many have a larger opening dimension (length x width) than the bottom. This github offering doesn't allow or have an attribute to adjust this parameter. I suppose I could go into Illustrator and edit the file on the opposite side...but of course that's more time consuming which is counter to what you've so eloquently shown us in terms of ease and automation. Any ideas?

[@Vintauri]

I have not noticed that yet, but I have also not looked specifically for that type of object in these tools. It would be handy to have it loft the object from one size to the next and create the appropriate box joints to assemble.

[@inspiria1837]

great info.. when you created the larger box did you just enlarge the dxf results together so they would all increase the same amount.. or did you create a new file

[@Vintauri]

I went back and created a new files using the online generator. If you just scaled it up the box joints would get stretched as well and likely not fit correctly.

[@inspiria1837]

thanks@@Vintauri

[@kenadams1476]

when I makes a box and it generate the file the corners are never there as well as some of the sides what am i doing wrong??

[@stvcolwill]

I'm having this issue as well. when I click generate, there are gaps in the lines generally at the corners and in the middle of the no-tab edge. I tried different formats as well and opened all of them and the gaps are there. Is this happening to others?

[@stvcolwill]

I just tried this with Chrome browser instead of Firefox and it works just fine. This implies that the code is within the browse? huh? anyways. This might be the fix for that. : )

[@kenadams1476]

Thank you I am using firefox I will try another browser

[@adamgold-co7ec]

Thanks for this video, I watch you and Clacktical on Sundays. What material are you using? It looks like there is a finish on it.

[@Vintauri]

It’s a poplar based plywood from Lowes called Revolution Ply. It’s 5mm thick and has a grade A face that’s sanded but unfinished. I picked this up to test out for cutting. It was about $30 for a 4x8 foot sheet.

[@timhiebert2399]

@@Vintauri I just picked up a sheet of this from Home Depot yesterday, made my first few parts on it today. I agree with what you said in the video, there is some inconsistency to the material so you need to make sure you go slow enough to get a clear cut. Just wondering if you have done much woodglue on it yet? or any other sanding/finishing?

[@jackhelm9852]

How do you get such clean cuts? I always go the minimum power and fastest speed I can go and still reliably get through the material and I ALWAYS get char around the edges I need to clean up with vinegar. But you cut and your stuff is CLEAN. I am also using a 20 watt laser (Atomstack) so it should be similar to what you are using in this video. My Air Assist pump is a 38L/min which I THOUGHT was ok but maybe I need to increase it? I have also heard lifting the honeycomb bed off the surface helps? Does it make that much different? Getting really jealous of all the folks I see cut on these vids and get such clean cuts.

[@Vintauri]

Speed and airflow both from the air assist and the exhaust system will help reduce charring and wear on the laser. I do have my honeycomb elevated at least an inch at all times to allow airflow underneath. I also try to ensure that the air coming into the enclosure is creating airflow near the bed and not above it. The more passes you take the more opportunity there is for charring, each pass that does not cut through means that the smoke and debris will have to come up out of the cut line instead of through it. This is why I'll push the laser to a higher power to help cut through in a single pass if possible. A quality laser should run near full power without too much extra degradation as long as you keep it maintained and clean. If you don't want to go at 100% I understand as that may be pushing it, but you should be good at 80% and will hopefully provide better results.

[@teresa6775]

Wondering.......is there a way to make the slots attaching it together round instead of rectangle/square, so it would look like a nail instead of a laser cut slot ?

[@Vintauri]

You could cut round slots into the wood, however you would not be able to make the mating tabs rounded with the laser. It would take a CNC router and special jigging to cut on the ends of the panels.

[@darrellrichards2133]

Having trouble with my Fox alien 40 watt laser with air assist it just makes a lot of lines between the text that I use any help would be greatly appreciated

[@martinpalermo4520]

Good afternoon I have a problem with the Y axis of sculpfun s30 pro max the bar gets stuck and I saw that the left bearer is stuck but I do not know what measure is someone has the part number

[@jakerazmataz852]

We need more free files. Anything on Astrology, planes, vehicles. Idea for the pull, on the last one. You could cut out a tab, instead of a notch, and lay it flat, where you cut it out, and use it as a pull. 🤷‍♂

[@maitrister]

I have tried unsuccessfully to generate a round (circular) flex box with a tabbed bottom and lid using the festi box generator for RoundedBox. A radius of 100 gives me the circular bottom and lid, but without any finger joints. Can anyone tell me what would be the correct settings for festi, or if there is another box generator that would enable me to generator a round flex box? Thank you

[@DadNBoyhead]

If you don't adjust the brun in the website are you still able to adjust the kerf offset in Lightburn and vise versa? Or will it double the value if both happen to be adjusted?

[@Vintauri]

You can choose to use the burn offset in Boxes.PY but then you want to not have the kerf offset also in Lightburn as it will double up the offset. I tend to use the offset in lightburn on lasers that I've set up the kerf on rather then the burn offset in Boxes.Py but I did want to also show the option in this video.

[@thymeparzival]

What is the typical time and cost for making these boxes shown in the video?

[@Vintauri]

The cost will vary on the material you use. From the plywood in this video I have less than $1 into them. It took about 15-20 min to cut them out on the laser and assemble them. But this will vary based on the size and the power of your laser.

[@brucenorton3864]

What is the solution if the laser doesn't cut through? Can one run the program again from the same start point?

[@Vintauri]

You can add a second pass to try to get through the material, as long as your laser is ran from the same start point. I would make sure you run some material tests with your laser and each material to find the optimal power and speed settings. I have a video on how to do that in Lightburn if you want to check it out. kzbin.info/www/bejne/enTJh5ZugZqBq6s

[@brucenorton3864]

@@Vintauri thanks very much for your reply. How does one distinguish between lines that are simply burnt as in the case of text, and lines that must burn right through the material? Is this done by simply putting each on their own layer?

[@Mirzacrafts]

How to decrease no of joints in the file??

[@Vintauri]

You'll want to play with the finger joint settings in the Boxes.Py generator page and increase their width.

[@Scadaboy]

My Mac book using Chrome doesn't like the safety of the site.

[@Vintauri]

I run a number of web scanning tools on my computers and have tested it on Chrome, as well as other browsers and I don't get the warning. Perhaps it's the Mac not liking the Python code running on that site. I'll try to test it with my Mac to see if I get a warning.

[@believingintheblood8540]

For us, poor people that don’t use light burn and we only use actual creative software with the SVGs that does create be detailed and good enough to actually just use those to cut?

[@Vintauri]

You should be able to import the SVG's from Boxes.Py into Creative Space and cut them out just fine. You'll just need to organize the parts so they fit in the cutting area, and then assign the settings to any layers. There should be no need to make any other adjustments unless you are adding engravings or want to mess with the design some.