Viscous Clutch Fan Replacement Without Removing Radiator T1N Sprinter

Replacing the viscous clutch fan does not require taking the radiator off. Some times it is easier to lean the radiator forward, but it can be done without even that. You'll need a stubby hex-key tool that we have links for on our products page.
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[@EdwardM104]

I recommend updating the clutch fan to the part number that Mercedes superseded this to, 0002009723. This is the fan clutch designed for the 2.1L Sprinters, it is more aggressive and flows better than the original fan while fitting in the original shroud. Borg Warner is OE.

[@mannyst1nvan]

Interesting! First time hearing this by more aggressive what are your exactly referring to blade count or lower temp when the fan kicks on?

[@georgethoma669]

Thanks Bill! Great video!

[@theguys1051]

Fantastic video thanks

[@christin1095]

Clamp vise gripe plyers on the t50 socket

[@karolinarej7837]

Hi, should the fan be working if the engine was just started? I found different opinions, I'm looking into annoying buzzing sound coming from the front of the engine, and started wondering ab the clutch maybe?

[@FloridaVanMan]

Yes! Clutch fan should always be spinning when engine is running. When the fan is cool you should be able to stop it spinning with a folded piece of paper. When the fan and engine are really hot paper will not stop the fan because the clutch will engage tightly.

[@karolinarej7837]

So as I understand the shot 'after' you took on the hot engine ? As you didn't stop the fan with a piece of paper?

[@nordmansbil2048]

Hello, love your videos. I have a question, I repaired my black death and after coming back after 1 day of letting it sit, around the injectors is filled with coolant water, what have I done wrong? And what can I do to fix it?

[@chasehelmick6025]

It’s possible that your head is cracked. The previous owner of my van damaged the threaded hole for injector #1 and cracked the head/punctured the water jacket. The area around my injectors kept filling with coolant. Had to get the head replaced and it wasn’t cheap.

[@nordmansbil2048]

@@chasehelmick6025 is it possible to rethread the holes and block it off with a stud? Or Maybe some kind of liquid metal down the hole?

[@chasehelmick6025]

@@nordmansbil2048 there’s a place called Linden Engineering (they are pretty active on Sprinter-Source) and they claim to have a special threaded insert that seals the hole. I believe it requires drilling the hold-down hole up in size to an M8 or M10 though. My mechanic tried sealing it with silicon, but it didn’t work. He tried a few other things but none that gave good results. He was going to just replace the head with a used one, but had a hard time finding good ones without cracks at the glow plug holes so we had to get a brand new head. You could probably pinpoint which injector has the leak, pull the hold down bolt out and take a look. These holes need to be extremely clean and removed of any debris or you risk cracking the hole.

[@nordmansbil2048]

@@chasehelmick6025 Thank you so much for the help I really appreciate it. One last question, I cant get the OBD port to respond, ive tried all types of fault code readers but still nothing. What could be the reason for this?

[@FloridaVanMan]

I agree with Chase, either a crack in the head or over drilled hold-down bolt hole. Blue paper shop towels can help identify where the leak is. IF you find it at a hold-down bolt hole you can try removing the bolt and without moving ANYTHING else insert a new bolt with a dot of JB Weld on the tip. If you can deliver the JB Weld to the bottom of the hole without spreading it on the threads, that would be best. This is going to RUIN the possibility of removing the bolt for service and any attempt to service this later will result in needing a new head. Since the only option is a new head now... I don't see that as a big problem.

[@Teo07790]

Hi i have a question i have 2004 sprinter 208cdi 2.2 and i have problem with engine heating so engine can t get to operating temperature 80 celsius unless i am drivinng on highr rev but when i put in neutral it drop to 40 and i think the problem is in visco fan like in video i tried to stop it when engine is cold and it wont stop it spin same when engine isn cold and warm. What do you think is the problem in visco fan.

[@FloridaVanMan]

They usually fail two ways, either the clutch wears out and they spin too easily or the bearings wear out and lock the fan to the hub. Sounds like yours is locked to the hub and forcing air when it should relax and slip. Replace the fan clutch.

[@Teo07790]

@@FloridaVanMan hello yes yesterday in the morning i went to test it i used paper like you did and engine was cold temperature gauge on 40 and fan can t stop its spinning very hard and fast. I was waiting to see will the temperature go up when i am parked in neutral and after 23 minutes it goes up a little more than 40😂 i think i should replace fan?

[@FloridaVanMan]

Yes, when cold we should be able to stop the fan, so yours has lost the bearings and spins hard when it should slip and spin slower. Although, our engines may not warm up efficiently when sitting idle. Needs a little load to warm up, gentle driving is enough. @@Teo07790