VITAMIN C Serums | All You Need to Know Explained by a Cosmetic Chemist

[@SamMKKK]

I wish Naturium would put their retinaldehyde and vit c in airless-pump dispensers. Or hey, maybe their stability and efficacy tests showed their formulae do just fine without them, and I’m just paranoid.

[@wallflower6942]

Airless pumps don't work well with ascorbic acid. When ascorbic acid degrades, a gas forms. Airless pumps don't allow that gas to escape, which means that eventually the pump will break or explode to release the gas. That is why basically all ascorbic acid products are either in dropper bottles or tubes.

[@SamMKKK]

@@wallflower6942 Interesting. Can you point me to any sources corroborating this? I cannot find any on my end.

[@wallflower6942]

@@SamMKKK I saw some stability tests a while ago, but I can't really show you that. But you can try it yourself by mixing ascorbic acid (you want around 20%) and water, and then putting it in a dropper bottle. Don't open it and let it degrade, the top will balloon because of the gas that forms in the bottle.

[@gabriellasanchez4789]

“That’s not true ellen” 😂 This was a great video, thanks! I love when you explain from your chemist pov. It’s so informative.

[@angeldelmoroable]

You are GOD, i found out about the Beauty of Joseon Centella + Vita C serum days after i placed an order😤😤😤 and i went to research about that specific vitamic C derivative and i wasn't impressed with the comments, but now i'll be sure to order it next time. THANK YOU❤

[@MariaJose-gw6cq]

Hi, can we use vitamin c derivatives in the same routine as copper peptides? Should we wait a few minutes between applications. Many thanks. 🧡

[@benjamingrino3696]

Saw a scientific article saying THDA degrades rapidly and is best used with an antioxidant (the study used a ginger compound, acetyl zingerone). Will be looking for a THDA product with antioxidants.

[@lililylo]

I like adding vitamin C's to my routine, just hate the smell of them- but I learned recently that the acids makes that weird metallic smell. Love the BOJ sunscreen xx

[@manuelramos8172]

I've been using Perricone MD's CCC+ Ferulic. Amazing blend of 3 vitamic derivatives along with Vitamin E and Ferulic Acid. I keep finding it at Marshall's for 20 bucks depite being $159 retail 😁

[@janicewright8139]

I’ve found it at TJMax as well. But I wonder if it has oxidized. I don’t know what the original color is supposed to be.

[@igeorge25]

@@janicewright8139it’s a white cream

[@manuelramos8172]

It should be off-white. You'll know its oxidized when it turns a darker orange color@@janicewright8139

[@bryanv.3630]

It might be a fake then or oxidized… just be careful

[@agneskirima6075]

Thanks for making this helpful video.

[@byodles]

I really love this video. It's so informative❤

[@baybeetricia]

I just started using Cocokind Vitamin C Glow Serum. It has ascorbyl glucoside, azealic acid, sodium hyaluronate, aloe vera, and sea grape caviar extract.... And I love it! Not only does a little goes a long way but it's so hydrating. It works really fast on hyperpigmentation. I've had a stubborn dark mark since March and it was not going away. I started using this product last month and it's almost completely gone. Amen! Prior to this, I got a trial size, for free, of freshly squeezed glow 20% vitamin C serum from Juice Beauty for my birthday from Ulta. That was my first time trying vitamin c and I loved it. I was going to buy the full size but it was $65 so I decided not to get it.

[@stephaniegrehan9084]

Dear Klairs Freshly Juiced Vitamin Drop is wonderful! Really good price, doesn't oxidise in the bottle and not irritating on my sensitive skin! It feels oily, but once it's had a couple of minutes to sink in that goes away, it just means I can't do a speedy skincare routine with it because I gotta wait a little while before going to the next step. They do a wonderful jelly/jello/pudding textured Vit E moisturiser which complements it and goes on super light.

[@AG-gv9cb]

Love RoC vitamin c 10% serum + vitamin c 25% with glutathione from paula's choice. They both have nice smell.

[@lateashagreen8542]

Lets talk about the beautiful glow in your complexion!!!!!!

[@laurenblanc6172]

Ramón, Can you plz add more videos to your playlist “formulation talks” ? Ingredients to discuss: -galactomyces/pitera (esp. this) -peptides (more in depth) -and more! These are just some examples, but I really do love your series! I know there’s vids about these ingredients,but I think it would be more helpful hearing it from a cosmetic chemist. Lab muffin did a vid on tret/retinol but I’d love to hear your opinion! Especially on galactomyces & peptides bc I rarely find vids of those from product formulators. From a loyal subscriber who loves your content. ❤

[@jeovaniee]

Yes earrings and shirt

[@johnguzmandiaz]

Your beard is looking great!

[@renzellousbrown]

What if I have a l-ascorbic acid powder? I have been mixing it with my Thayers milky toner but I’m worried I’m sensitizing my skin to sunlight

[@caleb.b.t]

If I may add, I’m a cosmetic chemist myself and I would not trust any vitamin C other than one coming from skinceuticals or one I have made myself on the bench. Storage/manufacturing processes of vitamin C products play a huge role on its stability. I would not spend money on serums from brands that are all using CMs that are not going to be worried about performing extreme due diligence on proper storage parameters that vitamin C serums need. Even if they were, storage and shipping parameters to retail locations and warehouses, etc. are really out of both CMs’ and brands’ hands. Sure, the products may pass crash testing at 50C and F/T cycles but that’s going to be based on just the system of the product only. 99% of brands aren’t going to be performing LC-MS testing; etc. after performing a 50C crash test for 4 weeks to determine how much of the ascorbic acid has degraded. skinceuticals at least has real, repeatable data on its stability and performance. With other brands, sure, it might be fine, but you’ll always be taking more of a gamble with them, and of course it may depend on batch to batch. Just my two cents…

[@hanimuumz2281]

Can you suggest any alternative of vit c which has lots of antioxidants?

[@ashleighburrell64]

Can you look @ Goodal Green Tangerine Serum or Pads please

[@geethaparasuram6338]

Hi. Thanks for the video. What are your thoughts on timeless vit C+E+Ferrulic acid + Hyaluronic acid serum ? It is not expensive - around $25 for 1 oz

[@ffmadari]

I just wanted to say I love your sunscreen stick with BoJ. I even have a backup. And it works great over the BoJ vitamin C serum. Great combo for my combo skin. So thanks for that!!!! ❤

[@lateashagreen8542]

Does that BOJ formula have niacinimide?

[@msk-qp6fn]

Agreed!! Love that sunstick!! Such a beautiful matte finish and the slight green tint helps with redness too ❤

[@msk-qp6fn]

​@@lateashagreen8542 last time i checked it did not have

[@hollyjameslawson]

I am using the Goodal vitamin C dark spot serum, have you reviewed this in another video?

[@Truffoire]

Thank you for sharing.😎💖

[@berkb6458]

Personally I don't get why L-ascorbic acid serums in dropper bottles (i.e. Skin ceuticals) are hyped up that much. Don't you think the stabilization of Vitamin C also has to do with the packaging of the serum itself? What kind of long-term benefits should I expect from a L-ascorbic serum that will start oxidizing as soon as I start using it?

[@wallflower6942]

I said this in another comment as well but airless packaging doesn't work for ascorbic acid. As it degrades it will form a gas, which means that airless packaging will break or explode. If you buy your ascorbic acid fresh and keep it in the fridge, it will stay clear for a few months after opening. You can be confident that it will work as long as it is not too oxidized.

Waiting for my homegirl Whitney’s comment! 👀

[@janicewright8139]

Glow by Ramon where have you been. I’ve missed you!

[@yxk99]

Is ot true that when we use vitamin C without sunscreen it is going to hurt your skin? I was also told if vitamin C is ised ok active acne, it will make your acne worst.

[@msk-qp6fn]

I don't dislike vitamin c and sure would like to add a vitamin c product in my routine, but as someone who has dry and acne prone skin, a good moisturizer and retinol/retinal product becomes the priority. If I cannot find or access a retinol product, it's likely I'd go for a niacinamide product or BHA+AHA product rather than a vitamin c product. Sorry vitamin c 😂

[@leah.belle-joe]

Hi 👋 curious if you’ve tried the Timeless skincare line? They have a vitamin C serum that I’ve been hearing a lot about…and it’s affordable!!

[@laurenblanc6172]

Also, what are your thoughts SK-II essence? Specifically, the patent ingredient, pitera.

[@MaguiDias]

Are any of the Vitamin C products you mention metallic-scent free? I can't use Vitamin C because they all develop a lingering metallic scent

[@cashelgawinandthefamily1071]

What do you think of Regimen Lab vitamin X, timeless vitamin C serum, Maelove glow maker, and Depology vitamin c serum?

[@alihammoud7206]

Where are the earrings from? Their so nice

[@shahitkoch]

which is the best derivative for acne prone skin

[@kajunimoro6556]

What about Be Minimalist Vitamin C 10% serum?????

[@IvyChannel-wm9zf]

Can I use BOJ light on serum without toner? And is it safe for pregnancy and breast feeding? Thanks.

[@diiarno]

"to maximize their joint slay" 😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭

[@snoidburger]

I have had a good experience with Maelove Glow Maker. Supposedly an exact clone of Skinceuticals at a fraction of the cost. Have you done a video about Biologique P50 Lotion? It’s my favorite skincare product. I’m enjoying Augustinus Bader Rich Cream but tired of paying for the pretty blue bottle. I plan to replace it with TATCHA Dewy Skin Cream. Any thoughts?

[@Juliet42110]

Great video! Which vitamin C dirivative would be best for very acne prone, sensitive skin that clogs from any oil, & have melasma but who also uses retinoids at night along with other pigment inhibitors such as tranexamic acid in the AM (level serum from regimen labs). I've tried skinceuticals one with sal acid in it and I was so red, veiny and irritiated, itchy, little irritation bumps.... I don't know if vit. c isn't for me?

[@Lex.Lee.]

I'd go with sodium ascorbyl phosphate. It's gentle and known to have additional acne improving benefits

[@Radjehuty]

I'm not a chemist but my main reason for not using Vitamin C with a sunscreen is that because SPF is an essentially subjective scale (redness of skin), it worries me that something like Niacinamide or Vitamin C might mask the appearance of damage before it subjectively shows. We rely on skin redness to appear to determine the SPF of a sunscreen, so in the back of my mind, I don't know if when they determined the "SPF boosting" properties of Vitamin C are due to real biochemical reactions or if it was only determined subjectively in the form of measuring SPF. Personally, I only use L-Ascorbic acid at night because it just seemed to have the best quality data for efficacy and using it after a shower when my skin is most soft, and the pH of the formulation enhancing penetration, would have the best chance at getting to the deeper layers where needed. In conjunction with a retinoid, it just seemed to make sense. I'm just not yet sold on using it under a sunscreen yet.

[@NoOne-bp4oe]

idk where you get this information, but all dermatologists i see on the internet always recommend using vitamin c with spf is because of the protection it provides in the morning. the way it's called "spf boosting" is not only it can protect you from the sun, but also the environmental stressors. this "subjective scale, redness skin" you kept on mentioning sounds total BS sorry not sorry. like who told you that we rely on the appearance of skin redness to determine the spf boosting? also niacinamide or vitaminan c don't "mask" the appearance of damage. it "DIMINISHES" the damage. like wdym by "before it subjectively shows"? are you talking about purging?

[@Tumorcoach]

Just a giant paragraph of misinformation

[@NoOne-bp4oe]

@@Tumorcoach right? I cant believe some people liked the comment...

[@abby_smr]

Kinship one is $45usd at ulta :/

[@rigo.garcia]

“That’s not true Ellen” 😂😂

[@sharontisherman7619]

I have been using Timeless vit c serum for about 4 years along with other actives. Not sure its really made a difference in my skin.

[@babehc]

Same here. I even took it off my routine for a while to test it out but didn’t see any change. Now I just use it in the morning to hopefully help spf work better.

[@lilblackfish2009]

you remind me of go go from the tiny toons how cool, all of my millennials would know what iam saying👦

[@aarontheabc]

💙💙💙

[@kiarameakem]

Firstttt 😴

😘😘😘

[@kiarameakem]

@ 🥰🥰

[@GabrielSanchez-iz8uq]

Oh no yet another video about vitamin c...😢 aren't there any new topics you guys can talk about?

Well as I mentioned, it was something that came up a bunch in a prior video. It’s a common question about a frequently mentioned but rarely explained ingredient. Skincare beginners don’t know as much as you probably do. Is there something specific that you wanted a video on?

[@marionallen2222]

Love the Bubble Daydream Peter Thomas Roth THD Vitamin C products awesome!!! Timeless is also good it’s just too strong with my Tretnoin right now 🤍🤍🤍🤍🤍🤍🤍🤍🤍🤍🤍🤍🖤🤎🍁🍂