Vivitar 20mm f/3.8 Auto (The Best Vintage Wide-angle Lens) | Round Glass Review

[@Casey_Schmidt]

I like the results. I’m definitely going to try to find one if I can. I currently have the Super-Takumar 20mm f/4.5. It also has excellent image reproduction and colors but it’s painfully slow. I typically use it stopped down anyway but for low light, it becomes challenging.

[@DavidHancock]

Nice! I have heard good things about the Tak, too.

[@ebullientcookie7572]

Hello sir,I wanted an advice,which camera would be better Praktica super tl1000 with domiplan 50mm f/2.8 OR Vivitar v3000s with Vivitar 50mm f/1.7

[@DavidHancock]

Well, those are way different. As a general statement, the Vivitar camera is newer but also has more plastic. The Vivitar lens will be much newer and probably better. The Domiplan has a poor reputation but I can't speak directly to either lens as I've not used them.

[@ebullientcookie7572]

@@DavidHancock okay sir, thanks

[@ebullientcookie7572]

@@DavidHancock would a pentacon 50mm f/1.8 make a difference

[@DavidHancock]

@@ebullientcookie7572 that's a better lens than the 2.8, by reputation, but again I haven't used that lens specifically.

[@ebullientcookie7572]

@@DavidHancock Okay sir,thank you

[@HrishiKurup-gw3ou]

Hey man,is the cosina 35-70mm lens good for beginners

[@DavidHancock]

It's a fine choice.

[@HrishiKurup-gw3ou]

Thanks

[@bartlevenson7851]

I have the 19mm tokina 3.8 with the 62mm filter threads, and a 20mm 2.8 Spiratone with 58mm threads. the 19 is very sharp at all aperatures even in the corners, but using it on crop sensor digital at an art museum revealed wicked barrel distortion. the frames of the paintings looked like they were photographed using a fisheye, almost. the 20 mm spirotone cheapie is not bad and a real joy to use on crop sensor digital, as it gives the view of a 30mm on full frame, a wonderful medium wide angle between 28 and 35. It also focuses to about 4-5 inches from the front element, with nice background blur. fun for doing portraits of very small things, like my 4" tall teddy bear!

[@DavidHancock]

Thank you! It's always good to hear input about how other people re using lenses.

[@thenexthobby]

This is a fun focal length and this lens looks like a fun way to get it! I’m currently EF for native use on film-dslr-mirrorless and recently picked up the EF20mm f2.8 for my Canons. Nice lens but being newer would not have the “character” of the Vivitar.

[@DavidHancock]

This lens does have tons of character. 😃

[@vme3000]

Have you tried a 82mm lens hood on it? Or better to keep no hood on it? Something i wondered

[@DavidHancock]

I used it exclusively without a hood. Due to the light to ghosting angle, I'm not entirely certain the lens hood exists, for full frame users, that would rectify the issue. APS-C and smaller shooters with a longer lens hood could see benefit.

[@vme3000]

@@DavidHancock thank you for your insight. You're right, the hood would probably make the lens look like a fish eye for full frame.

[@seoulrydr]

I'm jealous you found this lens with the red lettering. I'm stuck with the green lettering. Poor me - great vid!

[@DavidHancock]

Is there a difference other than lettering color? I know some of the Kino lenses, like the 135mm f/2.8, had different lettering colors, but I honestly couldn't tell you if that means anything.

[@seoulrydr]

@@DavidHancock considering the red is identical (physically) to the green I would not dare to say they are or aren't from the same manufacturer (Kino). i have two physically different versions/variations as well but one might be the update to the other.. I just think the red is prettier than the green 🥰

[@DavidHancock]

@@seoulrydr you know how to tell who made a vintage Vivitar lens, right? The serial number code? That's a good way to tell which ones are going to be good and which will be incredible.

[@seoulrydr]

@@DavidHancock I did not know that. thank you.