Voigtländer Bessa RF - why I like it & solving some common issues (rangefinder adjustment!)

Thanks for watching! This is the first video I wanted to make for this channel, and I finally got around to doing it.
Art of Photography videos on the Bessa:
• Voigtländer Bessa :: A...
• Voigtländer Bessa RF M...
(Thank you for the awesome videos, Ted!)
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Music provided by NoCopyrightSounds.
Watch: • Video

[@dominikbednarz]

Care has to be taken about the authors method of rangefinder adjustment! Tom Heaton (see comments) points out well, that with the given method both the rangefinder AND the lens position will be altered. If your camera was spot-on focussing at infinity but the rangefinder was off, after the shown adjustment the rangefinder is spot-on but the camera is out of focus. You MAY be lucky and BOTH were off at the same degree and afterwards both are spot-on. The common way is to get focus at infinity correct in the first step (groundglass). Then move on to set the rangefinder corresponding. There is an eccentric cam on one of the mirrors groundplates. Looking like a screw but isn't a screw (watch out for the slightly elongated hole). By turning that cam the mirror shifts and thus the horizontal rangefinders split image.

[@PhilKnall]

Thank you for the comment! This is great information that I have so far not been able to find. I've pinned your comment for anyone looking for the information. Do you have any tips on getting a good ground glass fitting the Bessa?

[@dominikbednarz]

You are welcome. For the groundglass I am using a piece of clear plexiglass with some stripes of matte adhesive tape on it. Here it is called Tesa invisible. Some marking will help. And of course a nice magnifier. Another method can be found searching for e.g. "collimating folders". A second camera is needed. This reference camera is set to infinity and watches the folders (or whatever analog camera) back-lit groundglass/tape through the folders lens. When the folders focus is set to infinity the groundglasses structure/markings will be sharp.

[@PhilKnall]

@@dominikbednarz great information, thank you!

[@jgrzinich]

Thanks Phil. I just got a Bessa RF that was probably made around 1939. My first test roll looks good except I can see the rangefinder is slightly off. Hard to believe a camera that is over 80 years old is still fully functional and takes such nice photos. What a gem.

[@PhilKnall]

Fully agree. I couldn't believe how well mine worked as well when I first got it. It's built better than many more recent cameras. Hope you can fix your rangefinder!

[@watson_skippy6746]

I Like this video! Rare to see someone would introduce the voigtlander bessa rf

[@PhilKnall]

Thank you! I enjoy using the Bessa very much :)

[@bananavroom3691]

Great colors from the ektar film! I think the uncoated lens and punchy colors of ektar is a great combo. Lomo 800 was a bit too pastel.

[@PhilKnall]

Yeah, i agree about ektar! It looks amazing on this camera.

[@tomheaton2490]

Hi, and thanks for the really helpful video. I'm trying to fix the rangefinder on my Bessa RF. I don't understand how this is fixing the horizontal alignment. Surely when you're turning the dial on the left you are moving both the rangefinder and the lens. So if your lens is fixed correctly at infinity but the rangefinder is off, this method will fix the rangefinder but throw the lens out. Is that right? Is there a way of changing the horizontal alignment without changing the lens - something similar to the vertical screw.

[@PhilKnall]

Hey Tom, so sorry I let your comment sit so long. I've been busting my head about how to answer it. First off, the same adjustment as the vertical is not possible - because the vertical doesn't move with the lens. The way the lens and rangefinder moves is locked in since they are connected by gears - If you disconnect the gears it is presumably possible to change their alignment individually, but all advice I've found online argues against that as it would get far more intricate... And fortunately in my case I haven't found it necessary. So the lens and rangefinder still move at the same increments, but you can adjust the adjustability range via the method shown in the video. Disengaging the lens mechanism will occur if you turn the focus past the nearest point - but I do unfortunately not know how one would go about aligning it again. I assume that would involve ground glass or some kind of testing apparatus.. Sorry I couldn't be of more help. I hope you manage to fix your Bessa! It's a wonderful camera.

[@snowh6644]

Thanks for the inspiring video! It is said that Bessa RF has three version with different lens. May I know which one does yours has?

[@PhilKnall]

Thanks for the comment! My Bessa is the RF (coupled rangefinder) version with the Heliar 105 f3.5 lens.

[@snowh6644]

@@PhilKnall Helier seems to be the best lens you can get for Bessa RF! So good!

[@PhilKnall]

It is! I've gotten some beautiful results with it.

[@mozaic_channel]

Hi Phil. I have this camera but never shot it. The rangefinder does appear in working order, however the whole camera could use a cla. I’m in the US. Do you service cameras or would you recommend someone?

[@PhilKnall]

Thank you for the comment! I am personally not confident enough to work on other people's cameras, since I've only treated the limited issues on mine.. I have seen "Certo6" (comes up in Google search) recommended for folder repairs, he has been doing this for quite a while. Website is updated this year so he seems to be active still.

[@barbaracornelius361]

@@PhilKnall I'm replying to an old post, but I wanted to let you know that Certo6 is definitely still active. Last week I bought a Bessa II (Color Heliar lens with Compur Rapid shutter) from him through eBay. He offers CLA'ed cameras and other items there. This is the second camera I've bought from him - the first was an Agfa Billy Record II. He does fantastic work, and I highly recommend him!

[@JarvisProd]

Hello, I have found this model while searching old family things and it seems in pretty good shape but the big wheel is really hard to turn do you have an idea ? thanks

[@PhilKnall]

Could be a number of things, dirt build up, old lubricant getting tight, something deformed... The first time i took mine apart i put the spring washer in the wrong place (outside the body) and it resulted in the same thing. Might be worth taking it apart and cleaning that bit, and seeing if the order of parts is correct (like in the video).

[@JayGrapherTh]

just saw this more detailed video and im starting to fall in love with how compact it is. but i still wonder why the framing and focus requires different view in the first place? how different is it to the FUJI GF670 - it seems to have the title Bessa III instead of this camera is the Bessa RF?

[@PhilKnall]

The GF670 is an amazing camera - quite a lot more technologically advanced than the Bessa RF, but that's to be expected since it was made around 60 years later! It also costs about ten times as much used. Also note that the GF is 6x7, meaning the images will look more "square" than on the Bessa. There's also a Bessa II which is 6x9 and very nice, but again very expensive. As for why it has a separate rangefinder and composition window - I assume they just didn't have the technology figured out in 1930s. The rangefinder is also magnified so while you can use it to frame, you will not see exactly what will be in the final image.

[@JayGrapherTh]

@@PhilKnall wow thank you so much for the explanation :) I appreciate it

[@PhilKnall]

You're welcome! Hope you find the right one for you!

[@JayGrapherTh]

@@PhilKnall i still think/want to start with the GS645 first and work my way up from there, looking forward to your next video when ever it may be :)

[@PhilKnall]

Yep that one looks awesome too! Thank you, I'm working on a few, just need time to edit...

[@jean-frereaubergine6551]

Hello, i just found my grandparent’s Voigtländer Bessa. It looks bigger than the one you’re holding in the video. Your video helped me open it up, but I don’t know how to shut it now😄. Any ideas?😅 Nice video too!

[@PhilKnall]

Hi, thanks for the comment! It depends on the model. On mine there's a lever just in front of the lens that you have to press for it to fold, on other models like the bessa 2 you have to disengage the lens supporters on the side of the bellows. If you can send me a picture on Instagram (@philknallhd) I'll be happy to help!

[@jean-frereaubergine6551]

@@PhilKnall hello, thank you for answering. I never saw your comment, however I did figure out that I indeed had to disengage the lens supporter!! I’ll shoot you a dm nevertheless, as I do actually have a question about the camera :)

[@PhilKnall]

@@jean-frereaubergine6551 sure, anytime!

[@AnaloguePhoto]

Super Video! Really have been looking forward to receiving my "new" Voigtlander Bessa RF. But since I got it a few days ago, I have not been able to open the film/back- door. I'd like to clean and check the whole camera... and eventually also load it with film. Do you, Phil, or any body else, have any idea why the film door might have gotten stuck? I have pushed the sliding button on the side of the camera, where the handle is located. But it doesn't get the door to open. Finding this video is a lot of help, since the range finder has to be adjusted on all cameras like this, with a range finder mechanism. Thanks Phil for this very helpful video.

[@PhilKnall]

Hi Peter, thank you for the comment! Sliding the button should disengage the door, but the mechanism might have slightly deformed.. i have also had the same issue when i had a "fat roll" that didn't spool correctly and wedged itself into the door. In the end i don't think there's any special trick, just keep the button slid all the way and gently try to pry the door open. Make sure to note where the seam is - i sometimes held on to the wrong parts, effectively holding it shut myself.

[@AnaloguePhoto]

@@PhilKnall :-) holding it right is a challenge. Thank you for the idea for how to solve this problem.

[@PhilKnall]

Hope you get it figured out and can enjoy shooting your Bessa!

[@ast3663]

I have the same camera..I cant open the back, it seems locked, even if I release the little lever on the side..on the back, is the little round metal knob in the middle between the two red windows a lock?? edit, it opened. the little knob opens/closes the left or right red window ( 4,5x6 or 6x9)

[@PhilKnall]

If it's really the same model, the little round lever on the side is the only lock. The knob between the red windows is for a blinder that enables you to see the numbers for 645 shooting (covers one or both of the windows). I have struggled to open it sometimes when a roll was stuck. Also, if you've never opened it, you might be holding it shut - half of the bottom plate moves with the door.

[@victor.marchenko]

Hi! can you please advise about re-greasing? My focusing wheel is too tight. Is this level of dis-assemblage, shown in your vid, enough to drop couple drops of grease to make it loose? thanks

[@PhilKnall]

Can't guarantee but it's quite possible that it might be enough! You can get to the gears underneath and that's most likely where it might be tight. BTW mine got really tight when I placed the spring washer in the wrong spot, so make sure the parts are assembled in the correct sequence.

[@victor.marchenko]

@@PhilKnall thanx, finally its smooth))

[@victor.marchenko]

@@PhilKnall and 1 more question,please, is it ok that auto release timer is almost 35 seconds ?

[@PhilKnall]

Mine is only about 11 sec, so I think your spring is probably a bit weak. But as long as the shutter fires without problem, I would say that's nothing to worry about.

[@JarvisProd]

@@victor.marchenko how did you do it ?

[@sparkleglitch13]

Hi Phil, a couple of questions as I got one of these a few weeks ago: 1) my bulb and time don’t seem to work, when on those settings I can’t cock the shutter, any advice on what I’m doing wrong? 2) how do I find out the age? I’ve tried googling but must also be doing that wrong. Mine came with the mask, but it is really really flimsy metal, I’ve only used it once and have not got the film back yet so have no idea how it worked. My camera also seems to be missing the lever to cover the second red window (both are always open). Any advice welcome!

[@MateuMatheu]

I'm not Phil:) but I believe that you cannot use T and B settings without a cable release. Inside at the bottom where says *Voigtländer film* and if the wear has not erased it, there is a code of a letter plus sis numbers. If it begins with an A the camera was built in 1929; if a B, 1930… and so on.

[@PhilKnall]

Hi Eris, please excuse the delay in replying! As Mateu has kindly replied, B and T can be used with a cable release and do not require cocking. As for the age, additionally you will be able to find a serial number on the front of the lens, and if you Google "Voigtländer lens serial number" you will be able to find a list of manufacture dates :) The mask is very thin but in my case at least it fits well, the thinness is required to leave room for the film i guess. The blind for the number windows should be engaged if you turn the screw or knob on the back side, mine "sticks" a bit and slowly opens up if i press on the back cover a couple of times. Hope you enjoy using your Bessa, let me know in case you have further questions!

[@MateuMatheu]

@@PhilKnall I froze the video and I believe it's the same mask of the **Bessa I** released in 1951.

[@wasabibinladeen62]

How do you scan you films? I like your colors.

[@PhilKnall]

Hi! I have most of my photos scanned at my lab. They use a Noritsu Mini Labo system. When I do it myself, I use Negative Lab Pro, but haven't quite gotten used to the process yet.

[@christopherhowell3209]

Very interesting Phil😊.. I have eventually bought a Bess’s 2, and have not as yet developed any film as I am unable to rewind the film🤒…any help would be much appreciated.

[@PhilKnall]

Are you shooting regular medium format film? In that case you don't need to rewind. Just advance until you notice it's no longer on the left spool (spinning freely) and you can open the camera! Medium format film has backing paper that shields it from light just like the banister of 35mm film. Just make sure it's wound tightly when you take it out and you'll be fine 😊 hope your results turn out great!

[@PhilKnall]

If you go to my Kodak Gold 120 video at 8:40 you'll see what I mean!

[@christopherhowell3209]

@@PhilKnall I have 400H film in the camera. Maybe the film has stuck,...as I can not turn the knob any further until it releases?

[@PhilKnall]

Hm, I'm not sure whether the Bessa 2 might have a different mechanism that might stop it at the end of the film. I have also had a similar issue when i got a "fat roll" meaning the film didn't spool neatly on the uptake spool and got too thick to turn further. I would recommend opening it in a completely dark room, taking out the film (it will be on the right side now) and checking whether it's neatly wound (you'll notice - fat rolls feel springy and not tight like a new roll). If it's tight and solid, it's safe to turn on the light. There'll be an adhesive strip at the end that you can use to seal it.

[@christopherhowell3209]

I have found that after opening the back ,that the film backing had stuck to pressure plate leaving spots of rusty areas. Not too bad that it can't be removed successfully .I had the film in the fridge,so maybe it was condensation? I also had not used the camera for some time.

[@benjaminvleugels5609]

I can buy a working one for €150. Do you think that's a good deal?

[@PhilKnall]

Thanks for the comment! It depends on what lens it has. For the Heliar lens it would be a very good price, for the Skopar it would be about average, the Vaskar lens is probably available a little cheaper even.

[@benjaminvleugels5609]

@@PhilKnall it has the Helomar lens. I don't know if That's any good. What is the difference between the lenses in practice? because the information on the internet is kinda limited. The only thing I could find is that the heliar is apparently the walhalla lens of this camera haha

[@PhilKnall]

@@benjaminvleugels5609 Yes, the Heliar lens seems to be the most sought after for this model, while the Helomar was the bottom of the line model. In practice I have no idea how much of a difference it makes as I haven't tried one - but I've seen people say they like the Skopar just as much as the Heliar lens. My suggestion would be to check Flickr if you can find some pictures from the Helomar version, there should be people using them still. I think as long as you're able to stop it down it should be fine. I got mine (with Heliar lens) for about $250 btw.

[@MR-rp3xr]

Cosina not Voightlander made

[@PhilKnall]

My bessa was made in around 1937. Cosina was founded 1959.