Voltmeter Conversion 67-72 Chevy Truck!

[@davidsteele1667]

I’m about to swap the Ammeter to a volt gauge on my ‘73 square and came across your vid. Nice work. Looks really good. 👍

[@SilverC8andDroppedC10]

Thanks for the tutorial! There is a guy charging $150 for a kit that includes the $49 gauge with a back plate. He claims "extensive modifications to the gauge face are required" to make his kit. Drilling out a couple tiny rivets or moving up a couple holes in the back plate is not an extensive modification & defiantly not worth paying somebody $100. I can't believe how many people have paid this guy to do what you just showed. I would be ashamed to pay somebody to do this for me.

[@YanGoody]

I think it’s cool to see another gamer who knows how to wrench and fix their vehicles

[@deankay4434]

The voltage from the alternator is to charge the battery, but run everything on the truck. The alternator has a rate of charge different from the actual temperature. Voltage goes high when cold, so a DMM or gauge shows close to 14.2 volts. When hot, it drops close to 13.2 Vdc. Also, the diodes are responsible for creating positive and negative voltage. The back or end frame is where negative is created. When remove, replaced or updated, frequently parts, brackets and cylinder heads are painted. This alone can cause problems. There will be a short hole on the back end frame. Make or buy a black cable and “Star” washers that fit the bolt eyelets but run a ground from the back frame, to the engine. The block works fine if connections are clean. “Star” washers can be internal or external toothed. Use them and dielectric grease on plastic connectors inside on the metal terminals. It prevents oxidation from cleaning, pressure washing or humidity over time. Light bulbs, battery terminals, flashlights even smoke detectors. We has all seen green corrosion which is coppers way of protecting itself. But creates high resistance. Look for videos about “Voltage Drop”. It requires a digital multi meter and when the circuit is turn on, voltage is present but this is potential. Amperage in the intensity of electron flow. A DMM is use to check for loss of voltage from point “A” to point “B” while on. As loss 0.050Vdc or less is normal. Remember high current circuits like the alternator, lift gates even snowplows. A reading of 0.50 Vdc is normal. Less is always better. But larger wire or cabling is something you have to do if adding a light bar, amps, heated seats, power windows, etc. It all adds up to total current requirements of your alternator. Always plan on a 20% Extra as to not overwork the alternator. So add grounds as previous owner may have broke or removed. Frame to engine, frame to cab, frame to bed for lights. Remember, these are over 50 years old. Hope this helps cuter readers. ASE Master Tech since 1978-Retired

[@ericclark3885]

I have a 67 C-30. But I put a 8ft bed on it. Cuz it was a cab and chassis truck. Keeping it real with the patina. Good idea on the new gage, might think about it.

[@tonyp8217]

Goto American Autowire for a direct replacement.

[@raybennett1265]

One is amp and the other is volts big difference

[@melissaweidman3326]

i am redoing a 68 dash and put the tach and vacuum gauge in it i have a 70 ford too and boy that is expensive to redo the dash on it just the dash pad cost as much as i have in my 68 chevy dash

[@johnsarab4500]

I pluged in a new gauge and it smoked the circuit panel. I hope to do my wiring harness RIGHT!

[@dickmick5517]

I was wondering why you went with the original needle? Doesn’t seem like there was a lot of difference. And most of that may have been in the pivot point. It didn’t look like that was even visible? Also seems like that was there biggest hassle

[@arthurbot4710]

Jummyyy

[@danb9744]

Will this work with a one wire alternator

[@TheGonRam]

Jim33333333