Volvo Penta 5.0 GXI Winterization. Drain Your Boat For Winter.

[@008359tim]

Thanks! This is a great video. I followed your instructions exactly. The only catch was when I poured antifreeze into the thermostat via the engine circ pump tubing, no antifreeze came out the drainage hole on the block or the risers- it immediately started coming out the lower outflow /outlet from the engine circulating pump. So, what I did was I took my hand and occluded the lower outflow opening (from the engine circ pump) and then had my son pour AF from above like you do, and then after a couple gallons, antifreeze started coming out the drain holes on block and risers (so I then knew the AF was making it through the thermostat housing into the hoses to the block and risers). We then(with my hand still occluding the lower circ pump opening) put the 4 drain plugs in, and then filled with more AF until it started pouring out the top of the hose (highest point in system) I was using to pour into thermostat housing. This way I knew all water was displaced with AF, mostly for anticorrosion purposes. I then released my hand, and AF drained out from below. Probably overkill, but makes me feel better and saved me $500 by not having a remote winterization done at my boathouse. For next year, I will fashion blind end hose to attach below so I don't have to occlude with my hand. Thanks again, and great video!!

[@NinoPrez007]

Finally a video that shows the water release hose!. Thanks a million bro!🇨🇦

[@rjalbright1]

Best video I have seen on how to get your block 100% winterized. To many only cover the running of coolant through the system which does not always fully protect the block if you don't drain properly or get the thermostat open when running coolant through. Well done.

[@Schneids15]

Thank you. I see too many people do it wrong and decided i would make a video. I hate doing the coolant pump through method.

[@paulfenn940]

Really appreciate the video. I found this last year and successfully winterized my engine and was happy to find it again this year. Thanks!

[@Schneids15]

Thanks for the comment Paul. Glad i could help.

[@64drkab]

Quick and to the point. Good stuff!! Thanks for sharing your knowledge!!

[@benfuruseth2598]

Amazing video. Thanks for going right to the point and having good shots and lighting so we can actually see what you are doing! Nice work!

[@Schneids15]

Thanks so much. I appreciate the comment.

[@humbertolopez8657]

Great video on how to drain your motor. I have a Volvo Penta 5.7 GXi which looks just like this 5.0

[@Schneids15]

Yes same motor just a little bit of a smaller displacement.

[@davepernot680]

Great job on this video. Much appreciated . Very informative

[@rugbyclown1]

Thank you for this video! Very informative and helpful!!

[@Luigi-pk8mk]

Interesting. I like that hose that connects to the block drains but it would not work here (salt water region) because the drain plugs always have to be rodded out to get them to completely drain due to rust flakes. Looks like you're in a fresh water region. I drain the engine and manifolds and then put some gasket sealer (OMC gasket sealer or Permatex Aviation) on the threads. Then I re-connect the lower end of the big hose on the front circulating pump, and leave the upper end (thermostat housing) disconnected. Then I fill the engine up with -100 marine AF through that hose till it spurts out of the thermostat neck. Then reconnect that end of the hose on the thermostat housing. I also fill the manifolds with -100 through the feed hoses till it runs out the exhaust bellows. Lastly I disconnect the raw water intake hose at the thermostat housing (this is on an OMC Cobra system) and point it down in the bilge to drain. Then I hold it up and fill it with -100 marine AF, this flushes out the raw water intake hose, power steering cooler and impeller in the drive, fill it till the AF runs out the drive water intakes.

[@Schneids15]

All good points. Thankfully i do not see many OMC they are more work to winterize. Those block hoses are handy but they are somewhat untrustworthy as i prefer to poke the holes and be 100% they drain. Some boats you simply physically cannot get to the plugs though and have to rely on this.

[@robconley3378]

Ppl

[@leonlilley3377]

Huge help. Thank you so much.

[@dennismorris3577]

fine job young man...

[@Schneids15]

Thank you!

[@mastap1477]

So, I drained the block and the exhaust manifolds and I disconnected the engine driven water pump and the hoses the go into the impeller. No issues. Then I decided to take it to the next level because I am paranoid and I can’t leave anything alone. I decided to put the 4 drain plugs back in (two on the block and two on each exhaust manifold), block off the water pump inlet (on the engine driven water pump) and then I took the water line that goes from the impeller to the thermostat housing and lifted it so that it was higher than the thermostat housing. Basically, I wanted to force antifreeze into the the block and into the exhaust manifolds. Next, I poured two gallons of anti freeze into the the thermostat housing (just like you did in your video). Once that was done, I opened all 4 drain plugs again and I let the anti freeze drain out. I then undid everything I mentioned before and let all the antifreeze drain. Only 1 gallon of anti freeze drained out, which means there is another gallon somewhere in my engine. Does anyone know where it might be? Is it something I should worry about? It’s a Volvo Penta 5.0 GL

[@marinom5602]

Great video, right to the point!!!!!!!

[@MrJeepsterman]

@ Ron Ackerman, if your hose has a bkue cap, that is a flush, not a block drain

[@joseleija9433]

Thank you. For your comment

[@gerrygerrie7404]

are there other block drains then ?

[@MrJeepsterman]

Thanks for answering. If you use this tube method, you dont need to bring the motor to temp, is that correct?

[@Schneids15]

That is correct. The manifold hoses go directly to the manifolds and the tube goes to the t stat housing but flows around into the block and you will see the pink come out each block hole and manifold so you know it is 100% not going to freeze. It is a lot more work than the pump through method with the muffs and antifreeze but is the safest.

[@MrJeepsterman]

Ive been searching for a video like this forever. Thank you for finally doing one that is quality. Question: I drained my manifolds 1st and then opened the block drain hose. A good 15 seconds of water came out. Hardly any water came out...maybe a half second from the block drain. How much water should i expect? I suppose i can dump the antifreeze until i see a good pink stream..

[@Schneids15]

I would suggest pulling the hose where it attaches to the block and poking it. The hose system makes it simpler but rust still develops in the block and plugs the hole. There should be a fairly significant amount of water. I would say a gallon from each side i would guess.

[@joeybbgolf]

Thanks for this video , just want to ask is there anything to be done besides you showed for winterization , of course I know the oil change the fuel stabilizer?

[@Schneids15]

You got it. Just stabilize and do the oil and filter. In the fall/ spring a new water fuel seperator is a good idea

[@DL-micotx]

I picked up my rebuilt 2004 Volvo Penta 5.0GL-D from my mechanic last month (September '22) after the block cracked a few years ago from my NOT winterizing the motor. This video and comments are invaluable to me, especially now, since I just spent my grandkid's inheritance on the rebuild. It looks like Schneids15's Penta 5.0 GX-I is similar to mine. I located a workshop manual PDF and his GX-I is included with my GL-D in the manual. I have a crazy question about displacing water from the cooling system. Will high pressure air blown through the hoses not work, assuming drain plugs are removed, followed by flushing antifreeze through the system? Finally, a excerpt from my manual based on a question someone posted in this feed about draining. The manual reads: When draining the cooling system, raise or lower the bow of the boat to position the engine in a level horizontal plane. This will provide complete drainage of the engine block and manifolds. If the bow is higher or lower that the stern, some water may be trapped in the engine block or manifolds. Improper or incomplete draining may result in freeze damage to the engine, manifolds, sterndrive, or other components. Freeze damage is not covered under Volvo Penta’s Limited Warranty. Thanks for posting this video 🙂

[@Cacheola]

You forgot to drain the fuel pump coolant! Also, best to leave the hoses attached to the impeller housing and just remove that to make sure there's NO water in the impeller and replace er in the spring ;) I don't bother removing the hose from the thermostat housing, never had an issue.

[@Schneids15]

Yes all fifferent ways of doing it. This seems to be the easiest and safest for me. What do you mean for the water pump? You leave the hoses on but it drains? I don’t get it. Also the fuel pump water cooling line is on the older models on the back of the engine where the high pressure pump is mounted.

[@Cacheola]

​@@Schneids15 Let's not confuse the GM water pump with the impeller pump/housing. If you don't remove your impeller, there will be water trapped between the vanes. Remove the housing... get it. Re-read what I said. My vintage of the 5.0GXI uses the raw water cooling system to cool the fuel pump assy, it NEEDS TO BE DRAINED

[@Schneids15]

Alright so basically no you do not need to remove the impeller. Their will be a tiny tiny amount between the vanes and when it freezes the impeller just moves a little bit. Not saying it is bad to remove the cover but 90% of people do it this way would be my guess. My 5.0 GI in my regal has the VST housing on the back that does need to be drained yes. In this specific situation you do not have to drain this as is it in a fuel cell all up front.

[@justinkamm3845]

I can't access the hoses on the water pump. Is it ok to skip this part or is there something else I can do?

[@lenoragarcia9969]

Thanks very informative

[@lexingtonpaintsupply3424]

Other than this video, what else should I do to prepare to boat for winter, lower unit/fuel system, any other tips or advice?? I have a 5.0 GXI

[@Schneids15]

Hey, yes change gear oil if needed. If oil is a nice clear or blue colour i would not change. Be sure there is no water in the oil. Will be a milky colour if so. Stabilize the fuel and you can fog if you wish. I personally don’t fog.

[@kevinmccarey5015]

Great stuff Thanks

[@PatrickHannaford]

Great video!

[@gerrygerrie7404]

are there also block plugs or just the manifold plugs ? I have that same hose on the side you set down in your bilge, also does the thermostat have to open though when adding the non tox ?

[@chrisbreier6255]

Well done! Thanks for the info!

[@joeybbgolf]

Thank you for this video, i watch it every year since i found it just to make sure I am doing it right. I have the same engine, and need to change the water pump before next season. Do you have a video for that?

[@Schneids15]

Hey Josef no i don’t have a video for that. I have to do one and can make one for sure though.

[@joeybbgolf]

great! Thank you

[@buzzychaise8450]

Thanks very much! I'm in coastal SC only a few nights in the 20'S per year, daytime always warms above freezing, can I just put a small electric heater in the engine compartment? Thanks!!

[@Schneids15]

That would work for sure. As long as you can monitor it isn’t gonna freeze that would work great.

[@gryfter187]

Thanks again for the vid. Does this motor have knock sensors on each side of the block that also can be removed as drains? Or is that just the 5.7? Thanks

[@gryfter187]

Thanks for the video! Are you not worried about the thermostat being open using this method? Or is the water there negligible. Thanks!

[@Schneids15]

Hey Gryfter 187. No not concerned. Everything drains below your thermostat and if there was a little bit of water sitting on top of the thermostat it drains out when removing the top hose. Then by pouring the antifreeze in the top it flows through all that stuff. I have been winterizing this for 6 years now with no issues.

[@ryanlee7895]

Thank you 🙏

[@andydavid6427]

Just wondering what year this is.....I am the new owner of a 2005 Caravelle with a Volvo Penta 5.0 GXi and wondered if the set up would be the same. Thanks for the video!

[@benbbuxton]

Great vid

[@joelenebruce5735]

After draining the raw water side for the winter is there a need to fill it pack up with water in the spring to start it? Or does it fill itself once placed in the water?

[@Schneids15]

Hey Joelene no need to fill back up. Just make sure you have the drive in the water or muffs to the drive if running it on land and it fill right up.

[@mrzif0013]

what temperature is this method good for? you did not warm up the engine to open the thermostat? no anti freeze in the engine block?

[@Schneids15]

By pulling the hoses and plugs you drain all water. The antifreeze poured through after verifys that pink is coming out of the plugs and has drained. The pump through antifreeze method is more of a diy method.

[@gerrygerrie7404]

so, if mine has a blue cap on the hose, it is a flush, not a block drain ? where are the block drains , thanks! 🙂

[@buffneilson]

My boat engine is a newer Volva Penta 7.4 (paid over $10k last year). I paid a guy $300 to winterize my boat. I was at work at the time but I did leave cameras on at the shop. The ONLY thing he did was lower the trim and run the motor until pink antifreeze came out the exhaust. Took him all of 15 minutes. He assured me my boat (Cobalt 222) was fully winterized because my boat is closed cooled. I'm suspicious. What else do I need to do to ensure I don't run into trouble? I certainly won't be using this guy again. I in Utah, so several nights are well below zero. Please help.

[@germanarzola2576]

On impeller housing removing bottom house drains top one also don't it?

[@ronackerman3821]

Thanks for the video. Does it matter if the thermostat is open or closed or does it even matter? Do you leave the manifold plugs out and put them back in spring? With the hose connected to the block drain, there is no need to remove the block plugs?

[@Schneids15]

That is correct. Since you are not flowing antifreeze through the system it does not matter if it is open or not. You can leave them out or put them back in. Whatever you prefer. If there is a hose attatched there will be just hose barbs attatched to the block. So you do not need to pull the plugs. If there is no hose be sure to pull the plugs.

[@ronackerman3821]

@@Schneids15 - thanks so much for the timely response!

[@ronackerman3821]

I have a 4.3GL that has a tee in the top hose that goes to the front water pump with a vertical hose coming out of the tee up the side of the engine. It has a blue cap on it. It's not a block drain. Do you know what this would be used for? Thanks so much for your video and help!!

[@Schneids15]

This is for if you do not pull hoses. It is an air drain so the block can drain. I still pull that main hose and dump antifreeze down. If you use this method you can leave the blue plug in so when you dump antifreeze in it will not pour out there.

[@ronackerman3821]

@@Schneids15 - thanks so much!!

[@leonlilley3377]

My gxi doesn't have that drain hose down below. Mines an 06 motor. Anyone know where to find it on my year?

[@Schneids15]

If your’s does not have the drain hose you will have 2 individual block plugs. It is a better system anyhow.

[@doubleitp]

Hi, just a question, I'm new to the Volvo Penta engines..... the very first hose that you drained (had the screw off copper top) is that the water inlet hose where you attach the garden hose to and flood the engine with water so you can start up the engine when it's out of water? Thank you.

[@charlesschafer3533]

It sure sounds like it, but was wondering that also.

[@LoneWolfSnowplowing]

yes it is. many of them have a blue plastic plug on the end.

[@joeybbgolf]

I asked you if you can make a video of changing the water pump on a GXI, do you think will you have one in the near future? It would be great!

[@Schneids15]

It would be another few weeks. My boat is buried in snow still.

[@joeybbgolf]

Schneids15 let’s hope for a fast warm up thanks for responding I appreciate it

[@regularguyfixes3142]

Does the 4.3 gxi have the manifold plugs? And when do you put the manifold plugs back in?

[@Schneids15]

Yes it will. Plugs can go back in right away assuming all water is out. I leave them out all winter so the manifold can breathe and not build up so much condensation.

[@regularguyfixes3142]

These engines also have lower block plugs. I have seen videos where they remove these as well but if you drain with the built in water hose do we need to drain those plugs? Also what about fogging? Is that needed on fuel or port injected engines through the air cleaner/throttle body?

[@Schneids15]

On fuel injected dump a 50:1 mix of fuel and stabilizer in the fuel/ water seperator and run through til it smokes. Fogging oil through the intake is hard on the injectors i was taught. The lower plugs may be replaced with a hose. If there is a plug and not a hose remove the plug and poke it with a pick to remove rust.

[@regularguyfixes3142]

@@Schneids15 I have the drain hose, but there are plugs on both sides of lower block. I've seen so many videos it's pretty damn confusing... My engine is a 4.3 port injected gxi.

[@Schneids15]

Regular Guy Fixes i would still pull the plugs. There should only be one hole in the block cast into it. Yours may have a fitting threaded into it, then a plug and hoses. Either way pull the plugs also.

[@mcampbell66]

What was the stuff you poured into motor?

[@chacusmith3986]

How many drains block in there?

[@Donniezing]

Do you run the antifreeze through the system after and leave it in? Or do you leave the system dry all winter?

[@Schneids15]

That is a big argument between mechanics for sure. I have been taught to leave the system dry but i do see the benefits of having the antifreeze coating everything all winter to minimize rust if that is what you are getting too. So to answer your question they stay dry. I work on many engines that are 40+ years old and they are still running strong and have been winterized like this for the past 40 years.

[@alohastyle]

Thanks for this video. Can anyone comment about pouring antifreeze through the hose... once the antifreeze starts coming out the other hose (so you know all water is cleared), can you close that end up and pour antifreeze back in to fill it up and leave inside over the winter? Will that help coat/fill the inside to prevent rusting? I live in a wet area (WA State) and worry about rusting... Thanks!

[@Schneids15]

I always find that since it is cold the air flow is better than having it blocked off. Just my thought.

[@ryanlee7895]

Good

[@Luigi-pk8mk]

ahh but the OMC Cobra has a few good points, that modern Mercruisers do not. 1) easier to replace bellows, just like a Volvo SX, because Volvo copied (yes they did) OMC's better transom mount design when they had the joint venture between OMC and Volvo (1994-1998). 2) easiest impeller ever to replace, even easier than Volvo's, and much less expensive to boot. Also OMC Cobras are not prone to the leaky steering actuator and leaky trim rams that you sometimes see on Volvo SXs. And not prone to the worn hinge pins and transom mount leaks on Mercruisers. It was a better design, too bad the company was over-extended and poorly run.

[@Schneids15]

That is all true and i agree. On the other hand there is a reason Mercury is in business but omc is not too.

[@bradthomassen1061]

hello, what does "burp" the engine mean? does that mean try to fully get it turn over by the key and starting it fully? Thank you.

[@Schneids15]

The objective is not to start it but give it a quick turn (usually starts) to rotate impeller to drain anything caught in the vanes. Likely overkill to do.

[@northwestlife_9]

​@@Schneids15 Summarizing now the petcock plugs will not stay in. I get them started, turn a few times, they pop out. I'm trying to find replacements online. volvo penta drain plug part 22848 is no where to be found. Got time to help an old man out with a link or advice? Thank You!

[@Schneids15]

@@northwestlife_9 hey! If those are stripped(never had it happen) take them to your local hardware store. They are standard plugs depending on what the manufacturer used. Sometimes 1/8” pipe plugs or 1/4”. NPT They are all pipe thread (NPT) and anything will fit. Just make sure you get brass not steel.

[@northwestlife_9]

@@Schneids15 Wow! Thank you! Very helpful.

[@Schneids15]

@@northwestlife_9 if you’re in a huge pinch and can only find steel ones just put them in but be sure to swap them to brass in the future or you will never get them back out.

[@MrJeepsterman]

If you use the tube method to pour the antifreeze, is that antifreeze going through the block? Doesnt it need to go through the T-stat ?

[@Schneids15]

Yes it goes through the block.

[@vitob5754]

Do i need to fog the engine? About the outdrive, is it ever needs to be serviced or winterized? i got volvo penta 5.0 gxi with dual prop SX outdrive. Also, what type of grease would you recommend to use on gimbal bearing? Thx

[@Schneids15]

The outdrive change the oil in it. If you don’t change it make sure there is no water in it. I would recommend any grease that is certified to be a wheel bearing grease will suit fine. You can fog it. Many people do and many people do not. I personally don’t unless i know they will be in storage for more than a year.

[@vitob5754]

Schneids15 thank you. I will try to find a video how to change oil on outdrives.

[@Schneids15]

I have one on how to do the oil. Labeled volvo sx, dp gear lube change.

[@stevethomas3656]

WHy wouldnt you reconnect all the hoses and plugs then hook up antifreeze to stern drive water intake and run engine filling it with antifreeze, then there is no need to "summerize" just turn the key and go.

[@Schneids15]

There is lots of possibilities of freezing still. This is the best method to be 100% sure of no freezing. You could always put the plugs in once drained and you would be summarized.

[@hightidelowtide6380]

Pulling those hoses off the raw water pump and t stat housing is not necessary

[@Schneids15]

Not necessary until one freezes... so much trapped water comes out. Yes it may expand and be alright but this is a 100% method.

[@hightidelowtide6380]

@@Schneids15 what's going to freeze? 2 ounces of water? In a rubber hose at that?

[@gerrygerrie7404]

how do you pour in the pink stuff then ?

[@princ248]

Very good and informative. But I wood very much appreciate, that you don't shake the camera from side to side all the time. Keep it still on the object you are talking about, rather than turning it to your face, every time you are talking.

[@Schneids15]

I will keep that in mind. I appreciate the critique. Josh

[@princ248]

Thank you; it's OK.

[@LoneWolfSnowplowing]

what about the water that surrounds the fuel pump? how does that drain in order for it not to freeze?