Volvo Penta AQ Upper Part 5 Shifting Cover and Final Assembly

[@arvidmartinkat48]

Thank you very much ! Learned a lot.

[@freddenning6362]

Excellent video, THANKS! You are clearly a pro! Thanks for sharing this invaluable content!

[@charlescrocker8576]

This is the only series worth watching. I am at the exact stages of reseration that you are showing. GREAT JOB THANK YOU !

[@TheAyrCaveShop]

Your welcome Charles, hope it was of some help..

[@10beerman]

Thanks for taking the time to produce these Vids. I did the Aquamatic courses back in the early 90's at Volvo-Penta in the UK and I've not worked on one for 20 years or so.. Now helping a pal rebuild his and your vids are refreshing my memory a good-un..

[@bartd.2955]

Thank you for making these video's, now I'm not so scared to taken mine apart

[@TheAyrCaveShop]

Bart, thanks for viewing and happy to help.

[@romansokolov]

Impressive repair, great video, valuable workshop from a true professional )

[@TheAyrCaveShop]

Thank You !

[@Watchyn_Yarwood]

I am really enjoying this series! I especially like your explanations and your assembly methods. Clean, precise and accurate.

[@TheAyrCaveShop]

Thank You.. I was worried about losing views dragging it out so long. But if someone is going actually rebuild one of these...they will need the details...ATB -Dean

[@johnstrange6799]

I can see your series here being a great resource for someone.

[@TheAyrCaveShop]

Thanks Buddy, I've sure benefited from the DIY community here on YT, my turn to share something...ATB

[@OldIronMachineWorks]

Dean, Been crazy busy and trying to catch up on watching some videos. That's some very nice work. Thanks for sharing. Gary

[@TheAyrCaveShop]

Thanks Gary, Welcome to the crazy busy club, long time member.... ATB

[@kevinpotter2645]

Seriously Good content - well done thank you

[@TheAyrCaveShop]

Thanks for the kind words Kevin. ATB...Dean

[@fogduker3131]

Great videos definitely explains a lot 👍 very well done thanks.

[@TraditionalToolworks]

Nice work Dean!

[@TheAyrCaveShop]

Thanks...hope the lake house build is going well...ATB

[@antoniogonzalezbalboa5369]

A great video tutorial😀👍

[@kimber1958]

This is kind of like learning Chinese algebra I doubt if I’ll ever need it in life but it is very interesting. As well you’ll have me second-guessing myself anytime I take something apart

[@TheAyrCaveShop]

There's a lot there for a simple gear box...Thanks for stopping buy ... ATB

[@woodrowterry723]

Great video, very instructive and informaitive. one question I have some vibration in my 1990 Larson, with this outdrive on it. I may have 300 hours total not used much. Any Ideas as to where this vibration would be coming from. I have installed new U joints. Other than new upper oil seal and boots I've not done any other repairs. Thanks Woody

[@TheAyrCaveShop]

Hi Woody, 90% of the time vibration is U joint related. I'm very detailed when installing new U joints. I've had many where the end clearance is too tight preventing the joint from moving freely. There's actually an end play spec for U joints about .001-.002" I keep an assortment of different thickness snap rings for adjustment. You can also carefully sand or grind them thinner, but do not over heat them, the snap rings are spring tempered. There almost always too tight. Also sometimes the bores in the yokes get worn and the caps are too loose. You can Loctite the caps in as long as there not too loose. And only use top quality U joints. Other vibration sources are damaged prop or bent prop shaft. The DPs are also prone to chipping gear teeth. Turn the props slowly and feel for clicking or rough spot. Also black oil a bad sign. Hope that helps, ATB...Dean

[@larsvastanhav2508]

This is a great series of videos you've made and I really appreciate the time and effort you had to put in to get it ready. Very informative and gives me a very valuable insight to the work ahead of me, should I decide to explore my dp-e drive myself. A question came to mind when you covered the deglazing part. Only thing I heard prior to this is, that when you have an issue with gears hesitating to go in, you need to replace the shifting cone. You didn't mention that possibility at all, and focused solely on deglazing the cups. Any comment on that?

[@TheAyrCaveShop]

Lars, Yes they can wear out, but that's quite rare. In those cases the gear cups are usually worn beyond service as well, making the entire unit basically scrap. There was a batch of defective shifting cones that made it into production about 20 years ago. Those typically failed in the first year. New shifting cones if you can fine one $$$$$ Thanks for commenting....Dean

[@Spicy-Tuna]

Hi Dean. Thank you for this video. Could you help me understand on the shimming the shift shoe to obtain proper clearance then for a DP-E to add an additional 3 more shims after "proper amount of shims have been established"? I'm not understanding how that makes any sense. Wouldn't that create excessive clearance right off the bat? I know the spring is in there to take up slack, but I'm not understanding why. Could you maybe help clarify?

[@lettyguerragirlbills792]

The spring allows the shift shoe to ride up and down the detents and shift. Without it it could not ride the elevation of the detents . The shims provide for the shoe to not have continuous contact with the shift cone after shifted in f or r. Adjustment is part of a rebuild, allowing all the components to function as expected, without excessive wear. Or even failure. Hope that helps someone.

[@Spicy-Tuna]

@@lettyguerragirlbills792 thanks letty. I was more talking about why only the DP-E requires 3 additional shims. Im wondering what is different.

[@lettyguerragirlbills792]

@@Spicy-Tuna Yeh got it. Seems the dpe is a different animal in the upper. That said the shift mechanism may be slightly deeper or shallower.and or the cone/ or housing larger. Not all mechanisms are cut the same nor are the detents the same depth, which affect the number of shims. The 290 a, has a different set of parts than the dpe, so the parameters differ.

[@Spicy-Tuna]

@@lettyguerragirlbills792 yeah I just stuck to the manual. Got my settings and added 3 additional shims. After talking to a few dealers, I was told that there was a bulletin to take the sliding sleeve spring, washer and retaining clip out. So ended up doing that. Its shifting good so hopefully I did everything good. Glad this video was here. Helped tremendously.

[@mikelitton724]

I'm looking to replace my shift assembly but mine is the one that had that rise with the bolt hole that the cover bolts on to. I can't find that part anywhere and everyone asks for a serial number off the drive. Unfortunately, the plate with the number is not on it. The part number on the shift is 872993. Any suggestions on how to come up with that assembly?

[@TheAyrCaveShop]

Mike, Yep that's not a very common style, in face the one I'm showing in the video is the only one I've seen with the extended bolt hole tang for the shift cover. In most cases they just used a bolt on plate that extended up to replace that tang. If you could find that plate or just make one, any style shift cover assembly would work (be sure to check the fork depth shim adjustment). Send me an email: [e-mail] (include a photo of yours) we probably have one we could sell. Hope that helps.....Dean

[@mauizak]

Great video series! I'm taking apart mine and a small maybe 3/16 ball bearing that fell out on the towels I'm thinking from the shift mechanism would appreciate any info if possible

[@TheAyrCaveShop]

Jon, you must have an old style shift cover. The ball with a spring rides on the brass shifting cartage. a loop of wire holds the spring in the housing to allow assembly so it doesn't pop out. Hope that helps....Dean

[@mauizak]

Terrifying there was no wire! And the boat is a 1979 so I'm guessing that sounds about right. Also my spring flew off into orbit when I popped it out. How terrible would it be to not reinstall those bits the shift mechanism still has the center v notch in it. Thanks so much for the reply!

[@bernardtompkins]

PLEASE HELP ! !!!! love the series . i installed my shift paw and i feel drag in one spot every time i turn the transmission just like in your video but even when i back the adjusting bolt out it dosnt seem to get any better, maybe a bit but i always seem to have some drag in the same spot. ???? i also tried it as per the manual where u remove all the spacer washers and it says it should be so dragged it wont move and then u add shims but i still have movement on the shaft even with no shims. i didint seem to have a problem shifting before i took it apart but trying to follow the manual and there isnt really a trouble shooting guide if it dosnt work out exacly as written . When i have just the reverse and forward gear in the main housing it turns like a top no problem but as soon as i install the shift mechanism it drags. is this normal ? ??

[@leefeldt1550]

I have the same problem

[@bernardtompkins]

@@leefeldt1550 any thoughts ? lol ????

[@TheAyrCaveShop]

The shifting fork/paw may be stuck in the lever crank barrel or damaged in some way. That shifting assembly can be removed with the drive on the boat, just drain out about 1 quart of the oil first. You should also notice the shifting lever & barrel moving in and out as you rotate it to shift.

[@AmateurRedneckWorkshop]

How often do you have to repair one of those. It sure looks like it could get expensive.

[@TheAyrCaveShop]

With good maintenance there actually pretty solid. But with a big engine and hard use "commercial fishing"..Etc. Not so much. Thanks...ATB

[@TheDollAdvocate]

But how'd you get the roll pin back !!!

[@TheAyrCaveShop]

There's a hollow space below. It will fall out once the main pin is out.

[@TheDollAdvocate]

@@TheAyrCaveShop ahh OK! Thank you so much!!

[@edwardprasad5942]

Like your videos, eventhough i dont have a Penta. I have the skippy OMC COBRA. Do you work on these? Thank you

[@TheAyrCaveShop]

Thanks for the nice comment. Sorry I don't work on the OMCs

[@rolandboykin5770]

Hi Dean, me again. Will you be doing a series on the lower unit? My outdrive is full of water, but so far all the seals in the upper gear unit and the intermediate unit looked fine. I'm afraid the prop shaft seal is probably bad, so I need some direction. Thanks again for your informative series.

[@TheAyrCaveShop]

Roland, The lowers are a PIA. Dad and I usually avoid them but we do rebuild them time to time. Probably the biggest negative is trying to ship them. "very costly". The DPs have prop shaft seal issues, the small seal between the shafts typically. I'll try to video one but it might be a while.. Thanks for commenting...Dean

[@rolandboykin5770]

@@TheAyrCaveShop Thanks, Dean! I'll try and do what I can using the manual, but I always learn better by having someone show me what to do. I've gotta find the problem as it can't go back in the water like this.

[@joefitzgerald629]

Great video. What was the total amount of shims you used?

[@rolandboykin5770]

Simple question, Dean. I'm inspecting and so far just cleaning and resealing a 280. The service manual calls for 10W30 or 10W40 oil in the unit. I've always used 90W in other makes. What do you recommend?

[@TheAyrCaveShop]

Roland, Yep I recommend 90W. If you can find Mobil 75 full synthetic that's a good choice. The older engines had less power so they got away with a lighter oil. Volvo figured this out with 290 models and started requiring 90W. Thanks for viewing....Dean

[@rolandboykin5770]

@@TheAyrCaveShop Thanks for the info!

[@alexanderbenavidez5533]

It's my second time taking my Volvo Penta Aq125A out and I'm having trouble getting it out of neutral. It ends up popping when I shift it to forward and reverse. It's a horrible sound and feeling. How can I fix this problem.. please help me and thanks for time

[@TheAyrCaveShop]

It's either the shifting cone & cups are highly glazed or possibly worn out. Could also be the brass thrust washer is deformed. Only way to know is performing a disassembly and inspection. It will fail catastrophically if you keep using it like that. Check the drive oil level first..

[@alexanderbenavidez5533]

I figure out what the problem was... The brass screw was too tight and missing chims. I got it shift in and out with no problem now. Thank you for reply and stay safe

[@TheAyrCaveShop]

@@alexanderbenavidez5533 Awesome ! good find

[@jimmyherring4349]

Where are you located and do you work for the public

[@ralphbooth5490]

Thanks!!

[@boody9141978]

What do you charge for this service?

[@markemery49]

With all due respect: The primary component being worked on is the Shift Mechanism. The bronze unit is the "Sliding Sleeve". There is a spring underneath the sliding sleeve to over-come gravity and aid in retaining the Neutral position. The "Shift Shoe" is what raises and lowers the sliding sleeve into each corresponding gear cup.... sometimes referred to as the cone. At 8:27 into the video, he shows using a silicone product for the eccentric piston seal. I will suggest that we NOT use any silicone products during your stern drive assembly. Silicone has no place on a boat. At 10:35 into the video, as the detent pin is being re-installed, If NOT retrieved, the next guy doing this work will NOT be able to drive the current pin through and past the detent pin. At 16:00 into the video, the top cover cap screws should be just snugged during this procedure. Not tight.... just snugged. The goal is to achieve a .003" squeeze on the upper driven gear bearing retainer once the top cover has been fully tightened. The gap between the top cover and the main gear case should now be ZERO. The .003" squeeze is to prevent the bearing and bearing retainer from spinning. Always use a new OEM top cover loop gasket, and a new OEM hollow bolt O-ring. I will also mention that the double bolt helmet pin "cap screws" If too long, they will break through the aluminum clamping collar area and will allow water to enter the universal drive shaft area. ,,,,,,

[@TheAyrCaveShop]

Thanks for commenting and the good information. I'll take your recommendation of avoiding the silicon grease. I've used it for 40 years in industrial applications for water contact rotating seals. 10:35 yes I failed to show the removal of the pin "taping it out" Thanks for pointing that out. It was removed. It's amazing how much detail is required in servicing these units. There always something to learn. Thanks for commenting and viewing !