Volvo Penta MD2020 - disassembly of the heat exchanger

The engine has gone 800 hours and it is time to clean the heat exchanger and change the coolant fluid.
It is always a big mess to let out the coolant and this time I also remove the heat exchanger cooling pipe held in place by two rubber boots or sleeves.
But as you know one problem leads to the next one and this time it's no exception.
The system rinse must be done every 400 hours according to the manual and the coolant must be changed every 2. year to protect the system against corrosion.
The brass cooling unit must lie in vinegar a day or two to remove any deposits in and around the cooling pipes.

[@dalechristensen6246]

Thanks for the effort Tino, You are making my my life much easier this week because I am doing similar maintenance. I’m sure it is not fun attempting these videos to in English as well so much appreciated.

[@livethedream4854]

READING THIS MAY SAVE YOUR ENGINE : please read completely I Know this video is well intended, But there is a BUT! I have a Volvo Md2030D and I use this method... if you think this will flush all the antifreeze completely from the engine,it won't. My antifreeze was red and is obviously visible. So I used the trick stated in this video and I my system twice using this method. The water was coming out clear. Then I filled up with water and turned my water pump with my drill (using the water pump strap) Did a flush again through the water pump inlet pipe as done in this video. My antifreeze got out all red again. I did that a second time and the antifreeze that came out was almost pure (not diluted) again. When I turned my water pump I did it long enough so the little opening that is on of the cold closed thermostat will circulate enough liquid. (6 -7 min) So my conclusion is that the method use in this video will not flush 1) The pipes of the water heater, 2) The bottom of the block of the engine. Yes, I know the location of the block drain is difficult to reach and it will let the antifreeze drop in the engine "sub-bilge", to do a complete job I think there is no choice. What I am proposing to do: I will empty some coolant using 1) the heat exchanger plug (left side of the engine) 2) empty as much as I can through the water pump inlet pipe (still a mess) then, 3) I will drain the block using the plug as suggested by the Volvo engine manual. I am not done yet ! To end doing a mess every time I do this, when I finally empty the whole thing for the first time I will drill the 3/4 in. block plug, put a small valve on it and plug a tube to it going forward, so next time doing this will be so much more pleasant. If you do so, make sure all materials you used will be compatible with the anti-freeze. Some rubbers and plastic with be rapidly damage by it , be aware to use the right stuff. IMPORTANT ! For the people storing their boat in cold areas (were it freezes): If you used the method stated in this video the water you may have left in the engine will have diluted the antifreeze and it may not be up to specs. So specially but not only if you used a pre-mix coolant you may end up with a solution that will freeze well above the specs of the coolant and you may find your block cracked after the winter. My suggestion: measure your coolant gravity before taking your boat of the water and take the appropriate actions to avoid such a costly disaster. Good wind to all !

[@twiper]

Yes you are right, I drain the coolant the wrong way in this video. And I also flush the coolant system the wrong way. So the right way is to first remove the coolant drain plug and then flush out the system so you get the dirt in the bottom.

[@CadohaAdventures]

Damn that's a clean engine and engine bay. A soon as I'm allowed back to the boat I think I have a lot of scrubbing to do, ha ha. Thanks for sharing, hope you're well where you are through this Corona madness!

[@twiper]

Thanks :) Yes everyone hope to be through this Corona crazyness soon. Regarding the cleaning you can spray over the engine with some engine cleaner and let it sit for some minutes, then take a high pressure washer and spray the whole thing over, just remember to cover the alternator. Then you have a clean engine once and for all.

[@CadohaAdventures]

@@twiper Wow, spray water in the engine? I wouldn't have dared, I'm not sure I'm. brave enough for that, but may get some rags and some elbow grease involved 😂

[@twiper]

There is almost no electronics on a Volvo Penta so I think it can take a quick high pressure mist of water, I have done "the wash" on a lot of engines in cars without any problems. But you can also get some special cleaning foam for engines and then clean it with rags and some high pressure air. I have primarily cleaned my engine with rags and water and over time it gets pretty clean.

[@CadohaAdventures]

@@twiper Well after seeing yours, I'm certainly going to up my engine bay cleaning game a little, ha ha 😂

[@EMGL33]

Thank you for all the help I have a Volvo MD 2030

[@AlanChooChoo]

That is one super clean engine.

[@twiper]

Thanks :) - and thanks for watching.

[@SailingBrickHouse-RVLife]

Thanks for showing.

[@FX5067]

Thank you. You were very thorough

[@iman80skid91]

Removing the bottom hose from the water pump you only remove about half of the water so removing the bung from the block is necessary... 👍

[@twiper]

Yep. Something I also discovered some time later 😊

[@iman80skid91]

@@twiper different engines have different outlets the later modelsl has a big nut plug with a square on it. Some of the earlier models had a tap

[@AchikSarih]

Merci beaucoup ❤❤❤❤❤❤❤

[@adamboquist3759]

Thames for your informative videos!

[@rolandfeger228]

Thanks for all videos. Is the operator's manual you have still available ? I couldn't find it . Mine doesn't talk about heat exchanger. Great job 👌

[@briantobin9]

Thanks for doing this in English 😊

[@quentincraig7709]

When you took the front rubber elbow off I notice some coolant. Is that common? I recently removed the boot on my heat exchanger and noticed the same thing. I’m concerned the tube is damaged. But seeing the same thing on your video makes me wonder if it is normal.

[@sodune7590]

Thanks for your video. It’s so reassuring to see the different steps before actually doing it. Your engine is super clean. Congratulations! One question from a newbie: why do you think the engine designs are mixing sea water and exhaust before sending it out. Wouldn’t it be easier to maintain if there was an exhaust and a separate way out to the sea for salt water out the exchanger?

[@twiper]

It mixes sea water and exhaust to keep the exhaust heat down

[@bendix998]

Fin video - god hjælp❗️👍

[@twiper]

Lyder godt at videoen kan bruges :) - I næste video tager jeg min udstødnings albue af, renser den og efter endt rensning er vand flowet også blevet forbedret betydeligt. Vedr. aftapning vil jeg også forsøge at skrue kølervæske aftapnings skruen ud så alt væsken kan komme ud.

[@KapteinTveit]

I have a impeller blade in front of the heat exchanger. If i remove the black rubber boot to fish out the impeller blade, will all of the antifreeze poor out?

[@nautor56]

did you flush the pipes in the boiler?

[@olehansen6655]

Jeg har en md2010 som smider saltvand ud af overløbslangen, monstro det er den kølestav, jeg er usikker på hvordan det varmeveksler virker

[@twiper]

Der kan komme saltvand ud af antihævert ventilen hvis den er stoppet. Jeg har en video vedr. hvordan denne ventil virker. Hvis der kommer saltvand ud af varmeveksleren er systemet utæt mellem sø og ferskvands siden dvs. de sorte gummi muffer sidder forkert.

[@hheinsius]

Interesting again Tino!: Thanks

[@twiper]

Next week I disassemble the exhaust elbow and find out how clocked it is after 800 hours regarding carbon buildup and water deposits. I also find some other problems I have not noticed before now. A known problem many boaters have is a kind of white smoke from the exhaust, also a sign of too little water flow in the exhaust elbow. Which means water evaporates when it hit the hot exhaust.

[@hellapellanyc6465]

Hi there does the heat exchanger poke out more from one side then the other? I cleaned my heat exchanger recently, changed coolant and have realized that I have lost a lot of coolant in the exchanger when looking down through the cap when I take it off. There is no spill underneath so I am thinking when I put the exchanger back, I didn't seal the boots on the ends properly and have lost coolant with the raw water. My expansion tank has remained the same level though, I think also my cap is not creating a perfect seal. Would it be possible to just use an automotive radiator cap and do without the expansion tank? Thank you Tino!

[@twiper]

The round heat exchanger unit must poke out the same amount in each end. The inner spanner secure the seawater from entering the coolant and the outer spanner secures the coolant from running out of the engine. I know the engine is also made in a version with no expansion tank, but I would suggest to buy the original cap to prevent problems.

[@hellapellanyc6465]

@@twiper Thanks Gino

[@niclasasada8712]

Thanks for doing this Tino! I have a small question. Isn't it possible to remove the heat exchanger from the front rather then pulling out the back where the space is limited - or is there something preventing that? Thx! /Nic

[@twiper]

It is also possible to remove the heat exchanger unit from the front, but on my boat there is no space for the exchanger when pulling it out by the front.

[@niclasasada8712]

@@twiper Ahh - roger that. I thought there was some spece but now I see it is blocked. Probably the same on my engine. Once again - thanks for this spelndid workthrough of the engine.

[@eddiedoherty2349]

Great question and answer. I was able to remove from front. I had some scale along exchanger making bit tough to pull out. Mostly at edges. Then some twists while pulling

[@buch8554]

Hej, har du en link til hvor du købte dit nye kinesiske LCD display ?

[@twiper]

www.ebay.com/itm/113187269878

[@FromGamingwithLove0456]

Cost on those is one thing- in talking to the local "Sea Power" volvo dealer he said "Yeah they're not cheap... IF you can even find them." He was talking specifically about the exchanger tubes specific to my engine- which is an older MD2040 from about 1995. This looks SO easy to do and yet he cringed when I talked about taking the boots off and checking for obstructions. Was a little weird... but now he has me nervous again.

[@pblnlpalu]

Just load itup dont make me wait!!!

[@twiper]

Hmm... maybe this "premiere" function isn't such an good idea. If people can't wait we have a problem.

[@mikewagner4243]

Still waiting ..... Can't wait .... :)

[@twiper]

Yes the subject around the cooling system is something many may need some info. about. Do not know how many video parts this project is running into but very interesting to see how the system looks after 800 hours.

[@wiedjai]

Your coolant drain plug is not original. It should not be a bolt. It should be a regulated drain valve. I drain mine md2020 without any mess.

[@twiper]

It is original a bolt on this model engine but I have seen the drain valve on some models.

[@wiedjai]

Tino G - Sailing strange that volvo have changed this to bolt. I have md2020b. You have md2020c ord d. I geuss volvo dont want buyers to do maintanace by them self.

[@twiper]

@@wiedjai My engine is a "D" but I don't know why Volvo have these drain plugs instead of a drain valve. I know the 2007 55HP engine also have a plug. Some things is just made strange and stupid but sometime there is a thought behind. E.g. if we let a drain valve and a plug sit for 50 years, witch one would open without breaking?

[@tomhummel2641]

A bolt is cheaper. The first ones came with drain plugs.